So i am having trouble with my cold bore shot having a different POI then the rest of my shots. Desert tech a2 with a 16” 6.5x47 lapua barrel and a varminter 3.0 30 cal can. It does the same thing with my 18” 300win mag barrel also. First shot is always about 1” low and 1” right with both barrels. I can shot a 3 shot group and the first is low right then the next 2 are touching. What can i do about this!? So damn annoying. It is absolutely repetitive and ive thought about zeroing the scope on the cold bore shot. But then the rest will be high and left. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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Range Report COLD BORE WITH SUPPRESSOR
- Thread starter Farmerbrown32
- Start date
Cold Bore or Cold shooter?
We discuss this alot here. two schools of thought. My opinion, no such thing a a cold bore shift. I subscribe to the cold shooter/cold mind. we tend to not be as focused and on top of our fundamentals and recoil control on that first shot. you need to warm up so to speak. thats just my opinion though.
We discuss this alot here. two schools of thought. My opinion, no such thing a a cold bore shift. I subscribe to the cold shooter/cold mind. we tend to not be as focused and on top of our fundamentals and recoil control on that first shot. you need to warm up so to speak. thats just my opinion though.
I have wondered this also. But when i put a muzzle break on the same barrels, i have no poi difference in cold bore. They hit exactly where i want everytime. I can shoot the cold bore shot, wait until the barrel and suppressor cool to ambient temp, shoot again and it stacks them on top of eachother.
Take a 22lr with you to warm up, or take several dry fire shots before you fire cold bore and see if it's still there.
To me it most definitely had a cold bore poi shift with the suppressor on. And when i switch to a Mb it does not
This is a heavy contour barrel also. Since there are no POI shift with my 338 can and a MB it really makes me think the varminter 3.0 suppressor Is the culprit. Thoughts?
So i tested this varminter 3.0 on my 24” 6slr barrel and it does not throw the first cold bore shot at all. So does this have to do with the short barrel? 16” 6.5x47 lapua.
Now I tested this suppressor on my new carbon proof 28 nosler barre 26” long and it does not throw the cold bore shot either. Only throws the cold bore with the short barrels.
This is very common with cans...the first shot there is nothing but pure air in the can. After the first shot, the can fills with expansion gases and absolutely can change the poi... This is result of the baffle design.
Just is aggravating because id like to use the short barrels with the can for hunting. And i cant do that if the cold bore is off everytime.
You found The problem, it’s the can just use your other can until you buy a tbac suppressor of your choice
Yessir. I ordered the tbac 338 ultra. So hope that fixes the problem with the short barrels.
Exactly. Cold shooter theory is semi-bogus. Yes it happens to some people but what is the chance they "flinch" EVERY time on their first shot....and in the exact manner that their POI on the cold shot is in the same erroneous place. Too many people, including myself, describe this happening where the initial POI is 3" or more off. That's a hell of a flinch.
It sucks cause the short barrels are the ones i want to run suppressed haha. But i just use my heavy ass 338 cal can and it works great. Hopefully the new tbac 338 ultra will fix this
it will. i have been running suppressed for a decade or more and have never experienced this issue. i surmise you have a supressor with questionable alignment and concentricity. the 338 ultra is the gold standard of all supressors...
With my Proof CF 26" 6.5 CM and TBAC Ultra 7 .30 cal, I have not had POI shift, however my first round is always 18-20 fps slower, with handloads and factory. My .308 Win barrel does not have a POI or MV variation. If you have a chronograph, I would check your MV as well to see if the "first round pop" or the excess oxygen in the can is the culprit.
A 1x1 repeatable shift is not the end of the world especially at known ranges.
You could dial in the error for first shot then return to zero.
Or deal with a 1 (moa) mental shift.
Water or other things in small quantities have been used in the past to reduce first round pop of some cans not sure what that does to poi.
Some mnfgs not down with that .
You could dial in the error for first shot then return to zero.
Or deal with a 1 (moa) mental shift.
Water or other things in small quantities have been used in the past to reduce first round pop of some cans not sure what that does to poi.
Some mnfgs not down with that .
POI shifts all have to do with the harmonics of the barrel. This can be effected by changing the weight at the end of the barrel like a suppressor or even a small muzzle break, to a lesser extent. Shooting different weight projectiles and different types or weights of powder effect harmonics. Higher end barrel makers use higher quality blanks where the metal structure is more aligned and should lessen POI changes. Sometimes its just luck of the draw. Only thing one can maybe do is add an ugly harmonic dampener on the barrel.
If its repeatable and consistant then just aim 1” high and 1” left for your first shot. 
Not the end of the world.
Not the end of the world.Another vote for the TBAC utra 7, my team use them on our duty AI AX308 and there is none POI shift between "cold bore" , "cold shooter" , with or without can.
I suspect you already have your solution en route with the TBAC, but FWIW, I have the opposite problem—the longer barrel has the shift.
I get a consistent 1st-round suppressed (Saker) POI shift on my 25” 6.5PRC barrel, but zero first round suppressed shift on my 18” PRC or any of my other calibers. It’s just that particular combo that doesn’t get along for the first shot.
My Nomad 30 on my 300 PRC does not have a noticeable shift, my Gemtech ONE 6.5 Creed does have a slight 10 O'clock drop on cold bore. No idea why.
You'll like the Ultra 338. I have two of them, and I shoot them on 6.5CM, 338NM, and 338LM (and soon 300NM). I have experienced no measurable first-round pop (shift) on any of them.
Sorry to revive an older thread here, but had this happen over the weekend and came across this thread. Hoping people are happier that I used the search function to revive this vs starting a new thread.
I had this happen on two rifles. Both short barreled rifles (18" and a 16.5" - both bolt rifles, one SAC built and the other stock savage) in 35-40 degree weather. I am shooting TABC Ultra 7 on the SAC rifle and 30BA on the Savage.
A comment made above is where my question came from, which is why I included that I am using TABC suppressors. Apparently that doesn't make any difference vs another brand. What I would like to understand, is more about why this happens? I have considered shooter error as well and do not profess to be that guy. So I am going to consider that it wasn't shooter error for this scenario. It was the exact same across two platforms and essentially the same result. Did not redial, did not aim at a different spot. Both second shots were on the mark.
I would like to understand this a little more and this is the page to come to in my opinion. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I had this happen on two rifles. Both short barreled rifles (18" and a 16.5" - both bolt rifles, one SAC built and the other stock savage) in 35-40 degree weather. I am shooting TABC Ultra 7 on the SAC rifle and 30BA on the Savage.
A comment made above is where my question came from, which is why I included that I am using TABC suppressors. Apparently that doesn't make any difference vs another brand. What I would like to understand, is more about why this happens? I have considered shooter error as well and do not profess to be that guy. So I am going to consider that it wasn't shooter error for this scenario. It was the exact same across two platforms and essentially the same result. Did not redial, did not aim at a different spot. Both second shots were on the mark.
I would like to understand this a little more and this is the page to come to in my opinion. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
For some reason i found that it only did it on my shorter barrels also. A 16” and a 18”. May just be coincidence but i have no idea. It is definitely frustrating because if the rig is used for hunting. The first shot is the one that matters the most.
Well u can always do what they did back in the day before a comp. Pull over and fire one off in the ground
Hunting is why I came looking. I had this happen. Again, I am not excluding shooter error here and it is likely the reason, but I was surprised by it. I was shooting a rig with an 18" barrel. Just got through shooting 100 rounds @200 yards over the past month working up the load. Had not issues. using H4350 which isn't Temp sensitive that I am aware of. I had been sitting in the cold for about 3.5 hours and the first shot miss (low) caught me off guard. Follow up shot, with no adjustments was right. Then three weeks later, my son, with a rifle with a 16.5" barrel had this same thing happen. First shot low, second shot on the money. Had i been able to video and put them side by side, these scenarios would have looked very similar.
I know I am not perfect, but I do think this had sometign to do with the rifle, and not all shooter.
I have to think you are still waiting on the 338 Ultra you mentioned above? If not, have you tried it out to see the result? I have a 338 Ultra as well and may go tot he range and play. Going to be a long day though waiting on things to get back to ambient temps.
havent noticed a cold bore shift, my zero is always slightly off without the supressor on. i always start with a clean barrel when hunting. the cold bore shot is normally the one that counts the most!
