I am using a notebook from Impact Databooks to help me practice shooting. It is a great book and is largely custom but came with a few standard pages. One is a page titled "come ups." I am not sure how to fill it in as I think it must be dependent on what my zero is. Does anyone know? Thanks. I am sure the subject has been covered extensively but I am also looking for some good ballistic software for my PC. I want to be able to look at trajectories in 5 foot increments. Thanks.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
"Come up" sheets
- Thread starter dcaven
- Start date
Re: "Come up" sheets
sir.......ummmmmmmmm........
you cant shoot the difference.
10 yards and you would be pushing it.
sir.......ummmmmmmmm........
you cant shoot the difference.
10 yards and you would be pushing it.
Re: "Come up" sheets
dcaven
what the guys are saying is there isn't enough loss of velocity in 5 feet to make any difference in trajectory. Most ballistics programs will go down to 5 or 10 yards.
Come ups are the number of clicks used to get to the next yardages past your zero you may want to shoot. For instance you may need 14 .25 moa clicks to reach a 300 yard zero from a 100 yard zero.
Also come-ups may be called as: 3 up 2, meaning three full revolutions of your turret plus two clicks...
dcaven
what the guys are saying is there isn't enough loss of velocity in 5 feet to make any difference in trajectory. Most ballistics programs will go down to 5 or 10 yards.
Come ups are the number of clicks used to get to the next yardages past your zero you may want to shoot. For instance you may need 14 .25 moa clicks to reach a 300 yard zero from a 100 yard zero.
Also come-ups may be called as: 3 up 2, meaning three full revolutions of your turret plus two clicks...
Re: "Come up" sheets
The five foot increments give me the MOA measurements I use for filling out a card that is a picture of my Leupold TMR reticle. It isn't for shooting the difference, it is for assigning the correct range to the mil and half mil marks on the card. It is how the guy at Leupold showed me how to do it. It worked very well although I am sure there are other ways to do it. This is the way I was shown. It is a separate issue from the "come ups" which is a different card that I still don't understand.
The five foot increments give me the MOA measurements I use for filling out a card that is a picture of my Leupold TMR reticle. It isn't for shooting the difference, it is for assigning the correct range to the mil and half mil marks on the card. It is how the guy at Leupold showed me how to do it. It worked very well although I am sure there are other ways to do it. This is the way I was shown. It is a separate issue from the "come ups" which is a different card that I still don't understand.
Re: "Come up" sheets
what caliber?
What velocity?
unless you are subsonic and at MAX range and somehow have a 1/32 MOA turret
5 feet you will not be able to shoot the difference.
what caliber?
What velocity?
unless you are subsonic and at MAX range and somehow have a 1/32 MOA turret
5 feet you will not be able to shoot the difference.
Re: "Come up" sheets
Chiller,
You are not understanding. I am not using each 5 foot increment. I am using only some of them but the program has the MOA attached to each. Using a formula given to me by Leupold, I can then figure out what range each hash mark on the reticle represents. Instead of figuring it out on the fly, I just refer to the card. Right now I am zeroed at 500 yards but should I change I will need my own software so I don't bug Leupold. BTW, I am shooting a .270 with 140 grn Nosler Accubonds. I primarily shoot at either 500 or 600 yards although this weekend I shot at 330 uphill with wind which was interesting.
Chiller,
You are not understanding. I am not using each 5 foot increment. I am using only some of them but the program has the MOA attached to each. Using a formula given to me by Leupold, I can then figure out what range each hash mark on the reticle represents. Instead of figuring it out on the fly, I just refer to the card. Right now I am zeroed at 500 yards but should I change I will need my own software so I don't bug Leupold. BTW, I am shooting a .270 with 140 grn Nosler Accubonds. I primarily shoot at either 500 or 600 yards although this weekend I shot at 330 uphill with wind which was interesting.
Re: "Come up" sheets
<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ex0nxi65Gu0"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ex0nxi65Gu0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>
Ipod touch app I have been using. Works great.
Terry
<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ex0nxi65Gu0"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ex0nxi65Gu0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>
Ipod touch app I have been using. Works great.
Terry
Re: "Come up" sheets
First, what Leupold reticle are you using? You mention you are using a TMR page, is that your reticle?
Are you dialing your dope or just holding?
Why a 500 yard Zero?
To determine ballistics you will need
Bullet (check)
Caliber (check)
Velocity (have yet to provide)
and a few other items.
I am not clear what Leupold has "told" you, I just can't imagine you really want 20 pages of dope at 5 foot increments out to XYZ yards.
First, what Leupold reticle are you using? You mention you are using a TMR page, is that your reticle?
Are you dialing your dope or just holding?
Why a 500 yard Zero?
To determine ballistics you will need
Bullet (check)
Caliber (check)
Velocity (have yet to provide)
and a few other items.
I am not clear what Leupold has "told" you, I just can't imagine you really want 20 pages of dope at 5 foot increments out to XYZ yards.
Re: "Come up" sheets
Maybe he wants to have the rifle zeroed at (x) and know based on that what each of the half and whole MIL marks of the TMR correspond to yardage-wise. IOW, use the TMR reticle as a sort of hunting style ballistic-plex reticle.
This is backing into it from the other direction; most of us look at the distance first then use the reticle as a ruler to apply the appropriate correction.
To do that, there's no formula required. Use a ballistics program and set your output to MILS, and the yardage low, say 25Y. Look at the chart and find .5 MILS up (or down) and note the yardage. Then go to the 1st full MIL in the same direction and note the yardage. If you change zero to a different distance recompute the same way. Of course go out and shoot it to prove the numbers.
And remember this only works at whatever magnification your manual says the reticle is true at. If you change the power, it all goes out the window.
Is that what you are after? If not, you've definitely flummoxed us all.
:-D
--Fargo007
Maybe he wants to have the rifle zeroed at (x) and know based on that what each of the half and whole MIL marks of the TMR correspond to yardage-wise. IOW, use the TMR reticle as a sort of hunting style ballistic-plex reticle.
This is backing into it from the other direction; most of us look at the distance first then use the reticle as a ruler to apply the appropriate correction.
To do that, there's no formula required. Use a ballistics program and set your output to MILS, and the yardage low, say 25Y. Look at the chart and find .5 MILS up (or down) and note the yardage. Then go to the 1st full MIL in the same direction and note the yardage. If you change zero to a different distance recompute the same way. Of course go out and shoot it to prove the numbers.
And remember this only works at whatever magnification your manual says the reticle is true at. If you change the power, it all goes out the window.
Is that what you are after? If not, you've definitely flummoxed us all.
:-D
--Fargo007
Re: "Come up" sheets
dcaven
If your standard zero were to be 100 yds. your TMR mil POI's would be approximately as follows for each hash mark under the main cross hair. 215-295-365-425-485-540-590-635
Approximate may be the wrong word! As Chiller said there is a lot of information missing, I used 2950fps for velocity and a sight height of 1.7...
dcaven
If your standard zero were to be 100 yds. your TMR mil POI's would be approximately as follows for each hash mark under the main cross hair. 215-295-365-425-485-540-590-635
Approximate may be the wrong word! As Chiller said there is a lot of information missing, I used 2950fps for velocity and a sight height of 1.7...
Re: "Come up" sheets
"Maybe he wants to have the rifle zeroed at (x) and know based on that what each of the half and whole MIL marks of the TMR correspond to yardage-wise"
This is what I am doing. I just got in from being out of town last night. I looked on my desk this morning and haven't yet found all the info Leupold gave me over the phone and am a bit new at this so forgive my ignorance. I am using the TMR reticle and have a blank sheet from Impact Data Sheets that is a replica of that reticle. It has lines to each half mil point and mil point and a place to write the yardage in. I can't remember exactly what the guy at Leupold had me do but he emailed me a ballistics table with 5 yard increments that included the MOA's. I would then apply his formula and look for the a corresponding number (again, in my notes) and it would give me a yardage for the first half mil hold above the zero. I would keep doing this all the way up then all the way down and with a 500 yard zero I got a range of 130 something yards at the low end to 915 yards or so at the high end. I want to do this for a 200 yard hunting zero which is why I need the software. I also need to find my notes- obviously. I generally like the 500 yard zero. When I shoot on a friends land that is as far as I can shoot. When I shoot at the range, 600 is the max. Changing to 600 requires a simple 1.25 moa elevation adjustment and I am pretty close to right on. I will refrain from asking any questions about wind or I will really look stupid.
My velocity is indeed 2950, BC is .496
"Maybe he wants to have the rifle zeroed at (x) and know based on that what each of the half and whole MIL marks of the TMR correspond to yardage-wise"
This is what I am doing. I just got in from being out of town last night. I looked on my desk this morning and haven't yet found all the info Leupold gave me over the phone and am a bit new at this so forgive my ignorance. I am using the TMR reticle and have a blank sheet from Impact Data Sheets that is a replica of that reticle. It has lines to each half mil point and mil point and a place to write the yardage in. I can't remember exactly what the guy at Leupold had me do but he emailed me a ballistics table with 5 yard increments that included the MOA's. I would then apply his formula and look for the a corresponding number (again, in my notes) and it would give me a yardage for the first half mil hold above the zero. I would keep doing this all the way up then all the way down and with a 500 yard zero I got a range of 130 something yards at the low end to 915 yards or so at the high end. I want to do this for a 200 yard hunting zero which is why I need the software. I also need to find my notes- obviously. I generally like the 500 yard zero. When I shoot on a friends land that is as far as I can shoot. When I shoot at the range, 600 is the max. Changing to 600 requires a simple 1.25 moa elevation adjustment and I am pretty close to right on. I will refrain from asking any questions about wind or I will really look stupid.
My velocity is indeed 2950, BC is .496
Re: "Come up" sheets
With that bullet at that velocity and a 500Y zero, I am getting these results. Consider every hash mark to be just a hash mark and not a mil measurement here.
Hold unders:
hash mark / yardage
1 - 440
2 - 380
3 - 310
4 - 230
5 - 100
6 - 40
Hold OVERS:
hash mark / yardage
1 - 560
2 - 610
3 - 660
4 - 710
5 - 750
6 - 795
7 - 840
8 - 875
9 - 910
With that bullet at that velocity and a 500Y zero, I am getting these results. Consider every hash mark to be just a hash mark and not a mil measurement here.
Hold unders:
hash mark / yardage
1 - 440
2 - 380
3 - 310
4 - 230
5 - 100
6 - 40
Hold OVERS:
hash mark / yardage
1 - 560
2 - 610
3 - 660
4 - 710
5 - 750
6 - 795
7 - 840
8 - 875
9 - 910
Re: "Come up" sheets
That is very close but not the same as what I got. I could be a difference in altitude, temp, humidity, pressure. Altitude= 0, temp= 85, humidity= 78%, pressure 29.42 deg
caliber .270, 140 grn, BC .496
500 zero
1 440
2 373
3 305
4 225
5 130
down
1 530
2 612
3 660
4 710
5 755
6 803
7 840
8 883
9 918
10 955
I am still just parroting what Leupold told me. I need to study my notes to understand what I am writing. You could be right. These are the numbers they gave me.
That is very close but not the same as what I got. I could be a difference in altitude, temp, humidity, pressure. Altitude= 0, temp= 85, humidity= 78%, pressure 29.42 deg
caliber .270, 140 grn, BC .496
500 zero
1 440
2 373
3 305
4 225
5 130
down
1 530
2 612
3 660
4 710
5 755
6 803
7 840
8 883
9 918
10 955
I am still just parroting what Leupold told me. I need to study my notes to understand what I am writing. You could be right. These are the numbers they gave me.
Re: "Come up" sheets
Ok, this is what he was doing. For the mil hashes, he started with one MOA and multiplied it by 3.438. Then he looked up the corresponding MOA from the Ballistics readout (hence the five yard increments) and matched the corresponding distance. That is the first hash mark. For the second, he multiplied 3.438 by 2 giving him 6.87 and found the closest MOA which is 6.86. the corresponding range is 225 yards, ect. For the half mil hashes, he used 1.7 instead of 3.438 and did the same thing.
Ok, this is what he was doing. For the mil hashes, he started with one MOA and multiplied it by 3.438. Then he looked up the corresponding MOA from the Ballistics readout (hence the five yard increments) and matched the corresponding distance. That is the first hash mark. For the second, he multiplied 3.438 by 2 giving him 6.87 and found the closest MOA which is 6.86. the corresponding range is 225 yards, ect. For the half mil hashes, he used 1.7 instead of 3.438 and did the same thing.
Re: "Come up" sheets
the next question I would have is when the target falls between your values (and it will) what do you do?
If you are trying to hit MOM then you are likely still in the danger space. If you have to be RIGHT, then what?
This is why I would think a 100 yard zero and realling having a good drop chart and knowing how to use your scope to dial. With it being a SFP scope your holds will only be good at the power Leupold specifies. The alternative is you can "map" the reticle at multiple power settings.
the next question I would have is when the target falls between your values (and it will) what do you do?
If you are trying to hit MOM then you are likely still in the danger space. If you have to be RIGHT, then what?
This is why I would think a 100 yard zero and realling having a good drop chart and knowing how to use your scope to dial. With it being a SFP scope your holds will only be good at the power Leupold specifies. The alternative is you can "map" the reticle at multiple power settings.
Re: "Come up" sheets
The target often does fall between the values. You can either dial in from your zero or you can estimate between the closest hash marks. It is better to dial in, of course, but if time is a factor or if you have multiple targets, that may not be an option. This weekend, I was shooting uphill at a target I ranged at 333 yards. It fell between the 305 mark and the 373 mark. Additionally, I had to adjust for the incline. By centering the bullseye and then holding low for what I thought was the appropriate amount I was able to shoot right on the proper axis of the bullseye. The wind was a different story. Anyway, my point is there is no perfect solution but I think a range card and a reticle map is a pretty good combination although I am in no way presenting myself as any kind of expert.
The target often does fall between the values. You can either dial in from your zero or you can estimate between the closest hash marks. It is better to dial in, of course, but if time is a factor or if you have multiple targets, that may not be an option. This weekend, I was shooting uphill at a target I ranged at 333 yards. It fell between the 305 mark and the 373 mark. Additionally, I had to adjust for the incline. By centering the bullseye and then holding low for what I thought was the appropriate amount I was able to shoot right on the proper axis of the bullseye. The wind was a different story. Anyway, my point is there is no perfect solution but I think a range card and a reticle map is a pretty good combination although I am in no way presenting myself as any kind of expert.
Re: "Come up" sheets
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dcaven</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Ok, this is what he was doing. For the mil hashes, he started with one MOA and multiplied it by 3.438. Then he looked up the corresponding MOA from the Ballistics readout (hence the five yard increments) and matched the corresponding distance. That is the first hash mark. For the second, he multiplied 3.438 by 2 giving him 6.87 and found the closest MOA which is 6.86. the corresponding range is 225 yards, ect. For the half mil hashes, he used 1.7 instead of 3.438 and did the same thing. </div></div>
I ran the dope directly in MILS so there is no conversion math at all to do.
Chiller correctly points out the unorthodox nature of what you are doing.
In that although this technique will work within a specified framework of conditions, it is not very adaptable, and you are going into it knowing that it will be imprecise, especially at longer distances.
The mainstream technique is to zero at a distance inside the effects of wind and use the reticle for holdovers accordingly.
It's taught and approached the opposite way you are doing it.....
Let the distance of the shot be the first factor in the creation of a firing solution, not the lines on the reticle with predetermined yardages in mind.
If you're zeroed at 500Y, and a target suddenly appears at 650Y with no time to dial, You hold over the number of MILS on the dope card listed for 650 and hit the target.
--Fargo007
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dcaven</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Ok, this is what he was doing. For the mil hashes, he started with one MOA and multiplied it by 3.438. Then he looked up the corresponding MOA from the Ballistics readout (hence the five yard increments) and matched the corresponding distance. That is the first hash mark. For the second, he multiplied 3.438 by 2 giving him 6.87 and found the closest MOA which is 6.86. the corresponding range is 225 yards, ect. For the half mil hashes, he used 1.7 instead of 3.438 and did the same thing. </div></div>
I ran the dope directly in MILS so there is no conversion math at all to do.
Chiller correctly points out the unorthodox nature of what you are doing.
In that although this technique will work within a specified framework of conditions, it is not very adaptable, and you are going into it knowing that it will be imprecise, especially at longer distances.
The mainstream technique is to zero at a distance inside the effects of wind and use the reticle for holdovers accordingly.
It's taught and approached the opposite way you are doing it.....
Let the distance of the shot be the first factor in the creation of a firing solution, not the lines on the reticle with predetermined yardages in mind.
If you're zeroed at 500Y, and a target suddenly appears at 650Y with no time to dial, You hold over the number of MILS on the dope card listed for 650 and hit the target.
--Fargo007
Re: "Come up" sheets
I appreciate all your input. I am not trying to be difficult or disrespectful. I am trying to learn. Please tell my why a 500 yard zero is not a good idea. I started with a 100 yard zero and incrementally worked my way up. It is my understanding that the various branches of the military use different zeros with the Marine Corps using either a 500 or 600 yard zero. Again, I am not picking a fight. I am humbly asking. Sometimes ones tone comes across incorrectly online.
David
I appreciate all your input. I am not trying to be difficult or disrespectful. I am trying to learn. Please tell my why a 500 yard zero is not a good idea. I started with a 100 yard zero and incrementally worked my way up. It is my understanding that the various branches of the military use different zeros with the Marine Corps using either a 500 or 600 yard zero. Again, I am not picking a fight. I am humbly asking. Sometimes ones tone comes across incorrectly online.
David
Re: "Come up" sheets
Another issue with a 500 yard zero is when you begin to hold for wind. You will be somewhere in the middle of the “tree” as opposed to the top and working down from there.
It comes down to your acceptable level of accuracy and your expected size of target. Why a 100 yard zero for many calibers and dialing or holding works well.
With you having a 500 yard zero what is your typical impact distribution? Are all the rounds in a 5” dia. circle or better?
Another issue with a 500 yard zero is when you begin to hold for wind. You will be somewhere in the middle of the “tree” as opposed to the top and working down from there.
It comes down to your acceptable level of accuracy and your expected size of target. Why a 100 yard zero for many calibers and dialing or holding works well.
With you having a 500 yard zero what is your typical impact distribution? Are all the rounds in a 5” dia. circle or better?
Re: "Come up" sheets
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dcaven</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I appreciate all your input. I am not trying to be difficult or disrespectful. I am trying to learn. Please tell my why a 500 yard zero is not a good idea. I started with a 100 yard zero and incrementally worked my way up. It is my understanding that the various branches of the military use different zeros with the Marine Corps using either a 500 or 600 yard zero. Again, I am not picking a fight. I am humbly asking. Sometimes ones tone comes across incorrectly online.
David </div></div>
If memory serves they go with a 200 yard zero in that you will still fall in the “danger space” if you have to make a snap shot.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dcaven</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I appreciate all your input. I am not trying to be difficult or disrespectful. I am trying to learn. Please tell my why a 500 yard zero is not a good idea. I started with a 100 yard zero and incrementally worked my way up. It is my understanding that the various branches of the military use different zeros with the Marine Corps using either a 500 or 600 yard zero. Again, I am not picking a fight. I am humbly asking. Sometimes ones tone comes across incorrectly online.
David </div></div>
If memory serves they go with a 200 yard zero in that you will still fall in the “danger space” if you have to make a snap shot.
Re: "Come up" sheets
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dcaven</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I appreciate all your input. I am not trying to be difficult or disrespectful. I am trying to learn. Please tell my why a 500 yard zero is not a good idea. I started with a 100 yard zero and incrementally worked my way up. It is my understanding that the various branches of the military use different zeros with the Marine Corps using either a 500 or 600 yard zero. Again, I am not picking a fight. I am humbly asking. Sometimes ones tone comes across incorrectly online.
David </div></div>
At 5-600 you are approaching the “maximum” range of the 5.56. That is not their zero.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dcaven</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I appreciate all your input. I am not trying to be difficult or disrespectful. I am trying to learn. Please tell my why a 500 yard zero is not a good idea. I started with a 100 yard zero and incrementally worked my way up. It is my understanding that the various branches of the military use different zeros with the Marine Corps using either a 500 or 600 yard zero. Again, I am not picking a fight. I am humbly asking. Sometimes ones tone comes across incorrectly online.
David </div></div>
At 5-600 you are approaching the “maximum” range of the 5.56. That is not their zero.
Re: "Come up" sheets
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dcaven</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I appreciate all your input. I am not trying to be difficult or disrespectful. I am trying to learn. Please tell my why a 500 yard zero is not a good idea. I started with a 100 yard zero and incrementally worked my way up. It is my understanding that the various branches of the military use different zeros with the Marine Corps using either a 500 or 600 yard zero. Again, I am not picking a fight. I am humbly asking. Sometimes ones tone comes across incorrectly online.
David </div></div>
A zero is a reliable baseline.
It's not a good idea because it is far outside the distance where wind has negligible effect. Your zero at this distance will invariably incorporate some wind into it which adds a changeable circumstance into what is supposed to be a reliable baseline.
You can go about with the knobs set at whatever you wish after the zero and accomplish the same thing, but a closer distance zero than that is what is called for if you are to have a reliable and repeatable baseline to adjust from. I do not believe that the USMC or any service snipers zero their rifles at 600Y.
--Fargo007
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dcaven</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I appreciate all your input. I am not trying to be difficult or disrespectful. I am trying to learn. Please tell my why a 500 yard zero is not a good idea. I started with a 100 yard zero and incrementally worked my way up. It is my understanding that the various branches of the military use different zeros with the Marine Corps using either a 500 or 600 yard zero. Again, I am not picking a fight. I am humbly asking. Sometimes ones tone comes across incorrectly online.
David </div></div>
A zero is a reliable baseline.
It's not a good idea because it is far outside the distance where wind has negligible effect. Your zero at this distance will invariably incorporate some wind into it which adds a changeable circumstance into what is supposed to be a reliable baseline.
You can go about with the knobs set at whatever you wish after the zero and accomplish the same thing, but a closer distance zero than that is what is called for if you are to have a reliable and repeatable baseline to adjust from. I do not believe that the USMC or any service snipers zero their rifles at 600Y.
--Fargo007
Re: "Come up" sheets
My groups are all pretty tight at 500 and 600 yards. My biggest problem is dealing with the wind. The place I shoot 500 yards is flat and has nothing anywhere around to block the wind. I set the windage for what I guess is the windspeed during the lulls between gusts and only fire during the lulls. I get good groups but they are not on the bullseye as my guess is usually off on the windspeed. I go to a range for 600 yards where there is a berm that blocks the wind. I don't have a spotting scope for that far yet so I shoot at a 10" Steel gong and hit it most every time and usually in the same area. I can see the bullet marks during breaks and they are good and tight. I have a great rifle, the weak link is me. I plan to get a powerful spotting scope soon but don't have one yet. I will also get a wind meter but I am still reeling from the expense of the rifle, scope, rifle case and ammo.
David
My groups are all pretty tight at 500 and 600 yards. My biggest problem is dealing with the wind. The place I shoot 500 yards is flat and has nothing anywhere around to block the wind. I set the windage for what I guess is the windspeed during the lulls between gusts and only fire during the lulls. I get good groups but they are not on the bullseye as my guess is usually off on the windspeed. I go to a range for 600 yards where there is a berm that blocks the wind. I don't have a spotting scope for that far yet so I shoot at a 10" Steel gong and hit it most every time and usually in the same area. I can see the bullet marks during breaks and they are good and tight. I have a great rifle, the weak link is me. I plan to get a powerful spotting scope soon but don't have one yet. I will also get a wind meter but I am still reeling from the expense of the rifle, scope, rifle case and ammo.
David
Re: "Come up" sheets
10” gong at 600 is 1.7 moa. What is wind, what is trigger, what is cant?
I honestly believe that the 100 yard zero and working from there you will find significant more applicability and flexibility.
10” gong at 600 is 1.7 moa. What is wind, what is trigger, what is cant?
I honestly believe that the 100 yard zero and working from there you will find significant more applicability and flexibility.
Re: "Come up" sheets
I will be going to the 100 yard zero. Trigger pull is three lbs. cant, not sure. I am going to take your advice though and re-zero to 100 yards and dial up as needed. I like being right a lot more than being wrong.
David
I will be going to the 100 yard zero. Trigger pull is three lbs. cant, not sure. I am going to take your advice though and re-zero to 100 yards and dial up as needed. I like being right a lot more than being wrong.
David
Re: "Come up" sheets
when I was refernecing trigger I was talking about coming straight back. Dont remember the math right off my head. Point is that if you "yank", "slap", or not pull the trigger STRAIGHT back. all this will be for not.
when I was refernecing trigger I was talking about coming straight back. Dont remember the math right off my head. Point is that if you "yank", "slap", or not pull the trigger STRAIGHT back. all this will be for not.
Re: "Come up" sheets
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dcaven</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I will be going to the 100 yard zero. Trigger pull is three lbs. cant, not sure. I am going to take your advice though and re-zero to 100 yards and dial up as needed. I like being right a lot more than being wrong.
David </div></div>
Good call.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dcaven</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I will be going to the 100 yard zero. Trigger pull is three lbs. cant, not sure. I am going to take your advice though and re-zero to 100 yards and dial up as needed. I like being right a lot more than being wrong.
David </div></div>
Good call.
