Compass Lake Engineering closing doors to the public

Supposed to have a cut at the shoulder end of the threads, dimension C.



ETA:

I think. Again, I am no machinist.
There is another spec out there, I guess. I’m no machinist either.

A gunsmith I used said he liked what he called the AAC spec, in which there apparently isn’t a relief cut. He said he’d cut the relief if I wanted it afterwards if the suppressor had alignment issues. But all was fine…the suppressor’s are Banish 30 and Banish 223 and they both appear to have a relief cutout in their threads.

Heck if I know?

Not sure if this is the spec he’s talking about…some examples therein seem to have relief cuts, some don’t. Bah!

 
Supposed to have a cut at the shoulder end of the threads, dimension C.



ETA:

I think. Again, I am no machinist.
Unfortunately, I see this alot, this is the case with most who have these simple to fix problems. And the industry seems ill equipt to solve a lot of them..
Which leaves so many on their own, who do not possess the skills or know someone who does, to help them.
The government regulations on firearms is a major part of the problem, requiring special licenses to work on them, like a $2300 manufacturing license, to do a $50 job, even though you are not manufacturing a firearm..and trying to interpret ATF regulations is difficult.

Huge fines and jail sentences for non compliance, and accurate record keeping.
It's just One big huge hassle, Which keeps people from getting into the business and many put out of business, of firearms repair gunsmithing, and manufacturing.
And it ain't getting any better. A sad time for many gun owners who need a little corrective help with their particular firearm.
 
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Compass Lake doesn’t relief cut 5/8x24 TPI threads is my experience.
If you counter bore the muzzle devise ya don't have to...but then not all muzzle devices are counter bored enough...
Making a problem that isn't necessary.
I always put in the thread relief cut, so there is no problem with any muzzle devices for that thread.
Plus now to time the device, you must remove the appropriate amount of metal off the muzzle device, or machine a special counter bored spacer.
All that is not necessary with a thread relief cut.
Do not create problems for customers should be the first rule of business.

And special threads so ya have to buy their muzzle devices are another PITA.
 
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I can't use a crush washer, as this barrel will be used with a silencer.
Absolutely NO, crush washer on a silencer.
Just remembered....
Call Wilson Combat, they have shim kits color coded for 5/8X 24 for muzzle breaks to get it timed correctly with different thicknesses of shims. Example on 24 threads per inch .010" thickness comes very close to 1/4 turn of the muzzle device.
Get 2 or 3 shim packs to cover the needed space. About $8 per shim pack...
Give em a call.
About all I can do without machining one.
 
I can't use a crush washer, as this barrel will be used with a silencer.

You can, if the alignment on the threads and shoulder are ok. I get it, it isn’t ideal for center fire especially with weight. But if you don’t like the tbac peel washers, shims aren’t going to make you feel any better either.
 
You can, if the alignment on the threads and shoulder are ok. I get it, it isn’t ideal for center fire especially with weight. But if you don’t like the tbac peel washers, shims aren’t going to make you feel any better either.
Crush washers are not solid and machined flat, when thread pressure is applied to crush them they automatically take up thread slack and automatically are forced out of square, depending on how much thread tolerance there is.
Shims or a flat surface prevent that, as the flat keeps the base from cocking off center.
Crush washers are used on brakes with .030" or more oversized holes so when it tightens up, leaning off center there is still enough room to clear the bullet. Never heard of any manufacturer recommend crush washers on a suppressor.
The picture presented appears to have a rather large radius between the shoulder and thread diameter, holding back anything from seating properly on the shoulder... Anything that isn't counterbored or have a larger radius to get to the flat surface...even that surface appears to be somewhat angled...but could be an optical illusion... this is a total screw-up of the company...they should go out of business. IMHO!
 
Crush washers are not solid and machined flat, when thread pressure is applied to crush them they automatically take up thread slack and automatically are forced out of square, depending on how much thread tolerance there is.
Shims or a flat surface prevent that, as the flat keeps the base from cocking off center.
Crush washers are used on brakes with .030" or more oversized holes so when it tightens up, leaning off center there is still enough room to clear the bullet. Never heard of any manufacturer recommend crush washers on a suppressor.
The picture presented appears to have a rather large radius between the shoulder and thread diameter, holding back anything from seating properly on the shoulder... Anything that isn't counterbored or have a larger radius to get to the flat surface...even that surface appears to be somewhat angled...but could be an optical illusion... this is a total screw-up of the company...they should go out of business. IMHO!

I’m not talking about recommended practices, as you can see from my post. I’m talking about solving a problem so the man can shoot. He also said he doesn’t like peel washers, so he’s not going to like shims either.
 
I’m not talking about recommended practices, as you can see from my post. I’m talking about solving a problem so the man can shoot. He also said he doesn’t like peel washers, so he’s not going to like shims either.
My recommendation: Take it to any competent gunsmith, have him cut a thread relief and make sure the shoulder is perpendicular to the thread and bore. Problem solved, with no doubts about any muzzle device seating properly.
Hoping for the best, going against the recommended norm, just so one can shoot it ...is probably not a very good idea.

But, It ain't mine...so there is that...and, I could fix it in a few minutes.
But, it should have been done correctly in the first place...just the facts.
Or, Do what you will, and hope for the best.
 
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I’m not talking about recommended practices, as you can see from my post. I’m talking about solving a problem so the man can shoot. He also said he doesn’t like peel washers, so he’s not going to like shims either.
Shims are easy to use, no problems there. I presume I'm not the only one who isn't a fan of using a lighter and a razor blade to tediously peel off one layer at a time (if you are lucky) until a muzzle device indexes properly.
 
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My recommendation: Take it to any competent gunsmith, have him cut a thread relief and make sure the shoulder is perpendicular to the thread and bore. Problem solved, with no doubts about any muzzle device seating properly.
Hoping for the best, going against the recommended norm, just so one can shoot it ...is probably not a very good idea.

Local (somewhat) smith and fellow PRS shooter is going to take care of it for me.
 
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I think that is an illusion/camera effect from the angle I was holding the camera at. The should appears to be perfectly square to the bore and the bore appears to be perfectly concentric to the outside diameter of the barrel as well.
And very easy to check with an indicator when set up in the lathe.
Dial indicate the bore in... then move it to the threaded area both should be zero on the dial, or less than 2 ten- thousandths of an inch, on your Interrapid test indicator.
Then do the machining, recutting the face to make sure it is perpendicular to the bore.
Time to clock the muzzle device, using no shims, or jam nuts, but the muzzle devise torqued directly to the perpendicular barrel face, for perfect alignment, of the barrel device, ...especially a suppressor.
Also for "cheaper" muzzle brakes check to see that it is running true, after install,..easy time to rebore the muzzle brake and reface the muzzle brake for perfect concentricity.
 
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