Cost savings of reloading

[EddieE]

Been flirting with getting the new Tikka in 6.5 cm. But, one of the hesitations I have is the cost of ammunition. At about $1.50 for the match grade Hornady, I feel like I will go broke shooting. Never mind the cost of the gun, glass, accessories, etc.

If you reload, what is the cost per round? I would think for my needs I would likely go with a single stage, since I don't think I would load more than 100 rounds a week and I can tolerate to do that with a single stage.

Do the economics make sense to pay upfront for the reloading tools for someone that is going to shoot 100 rounds a week? I tell you, if I have to shell out $1.5 per round, I will stick with my 22 or accurize my 223 and pay alot less for quality ammo.

 

[Valhalla318]

I'll be frank. Don't go into reloading precision ammunition thinking about saving money; you won't.

For the price, match ammo for the 6.5CM is fairly cheap. Reloading ensures that you have total control and the most optimal ammo for YOUR gun.

Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk

 

[pell1203]

EddieE, you can most likely get to under $0.75 per round for component costs relatively easy but you will also have to invest in and amortize the cost of reloading equipment by taking into account the number of rounds loaded within a given time frame.

Don't look at reloading as a way to save money! Rather approach it as an opportunity to shoot more for the same amount of money as before.

 

[GhengisAhn175]

Reloading can definitely save money when you're shooting wildcats , uncommon cartridges, or magnums.

Its also required when you're shooting at ELR or trying to achieve better consistency vs match Ammo

for a 308 or 6.5 you can get by with factory match as it's priced well. It's really your call whether or not you want to.

 

[GhengisAhn175]

Eddie, here's another way to look at it.

100 rounds of 6.5 Hornady match ammo = 130 dollars + shipping on midway. Let's just call it 140.

100 eld 140gr = $34
1# of H4350 = $30 (forget hazmat)
100 primers = $4

100 cases: let's say you saved up your once fired from match ammo.

So Now after spending about 70 bucks you can make 100 more rounds. That's 50% off.

with that in mind, factor in up front costs of reloading equipment

 

[Citius7]

I'll be frank. Don't go into reloading precision ammunition thinking about saving money; you won't.

For the price, match ammo for the 6.5CM is fairly cheap. Reloading ensures that you have total control and the most optimal ammo for YOUR gun.

Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk

What he said. What you are doing when handloading is having the ability to bring the best of what the gun can do to the table. If you have factory you cannot ensure you are at .020 off the lands and test that every 100 or so rounds. Find the best node that the barrel harmonics likes. And shoot at a speed that is forgiving for temperature sensitivity.

Do u need all that? Umm. Not to cock lock and fire repeat. But I don't want to throw lead down range cause I can. I want each piece of lead to be the best it can be

if if I miss. I want it to be on me not the rifle or the load. If I save money. It's only cause having a tailored load from copper creek or whatever doesn't cost me $5 a round or whatever. I could not dream of shooting what I have without handloading. And I love the spider effect of knowledge that handloading gives you. And it humbles you to know your working with ~60k psi 3 inches from your face that you are responsible for.

In the end. The bullet flies down range and hits something. I'd like to think mine fly more true cause I took the time.

Good of luck in your decision.

 

[Kopfjager1]

Dont forget to factor in your time reloading. You might save a small amount per every hundred rounds, but the time it took to get there should be considered when it comes to cost. Sure its a hobby, and can be fun, stress reliever, etc., but its time consuming, and takes time away from shooting, family, etc.

Theres an app for Android called Reloading Assistant, sure its on iPhone as well, but its takes the cost of all the components, and price per piece/grain and gives you price per round and per 1000. You can multiply the amount of brass you have by 2,3,4, etc. to calculate the savings. Its a rough figure, considering youre going to lose/damage cases in the process of handloading or shooting, not to mention the other components that youre going to make mistakes with.

 

[Ayoung1]

Don't get into reloading if you want to save money, I told my wife that in the beginning. The tools and components add up really quick. I do save a hell of a lot on the 300 blackout subsonics I load as well as the 260 Remington. Other than that the common calibers I would be better off buying commercial ammo. Just getting started 7 months ago I spent $1600 in tools and components to get me going. That is just a simple Rockchucker kit, Chargemaster, Gempro 250, Inline Fab goodies, dies, and some powder/primers/bullets. It is time consuming but it pays off if you have the time and appreciate quality ammo that shoots small groups with low es/sd.

 

[gunsnjeeps]

Honest answer. Precision ammo half price. You can figure out when your equipment will pay itself off. If you add equipment it is part of the cost untill it's paid off. Time depends on you, some shooters here say their time isn't worth it because they think their time cost them what they make a work. I load at least a thousand rounds a year. Twenty to thirty hours of brass prep and prime. Then an hour and a half to powder and seat 100 rounds one a single stage. I'm midway through setting up a 650. Brass prep time cut way down. Haven't loaded yet. Too much travel for work.

PS: Went from Rockchucker to T7 and use a PACT for powder weighing.

 

[mark5pt56]

You have to be realistic with your round count. I know some have ranges at their homes, a lot of spare time, etc, etc and shoot a lot. Then you have others who initially shoot a lot with a new gun and then it subsides with time and balancing other guns in the act and finances, etc.

Then you have to be real with equipment, do you need $1500 dollar scales, 300 dollar presses, etc--you get the point.
I'm sure there's plenty of folks out there with basic equipment, loading great ammunition. Then ask yourself if you have the time and space for the reloading equipment.
I'm semi retired now so I have the time normally but also have to be budget conscious with my shooting. I figured it up yesterday using a semi .308 precision and I'm saving $8 per box of 20 reloading, this is just counting the components( 168 SMK/FGM primers and 4064/brass is free match brass and compared to $20 a box FGMM). I have an old Lyman Spartan press and RCBS standard dies and a $125 RCBS scale (just checked it with my old Ohaus scale. Did a time analysis and I'm paying myself $20 per hour to reload for it. I would save a bit more when the 6.5CM.

Now, if you add up buying equipment, brass cost, travel times,etc then it gets closer.

So, be realistic with round count, time, space, etc. and form your decision. To some it's a hobby, like to tinker and "make it better". Buying brass-in my opinion, buy ammo for the brass, cheaper.

Round count-be real, this applies to some here and elsewhere, they "shoot everyday, x amount of rounds" and yet years from now they only have 1000 rounds on their barrel.

Part of the reason I'm selling the 6.5 Grendel is I'm tired of chasing brass around. Do I have to with the .308 semi, yes but the supply train is always running.

Couple of examples also.
.308 ball, saving maybe 2-3 a box-not much for the labor and could easily equal that buying the ammo and selling the brass even though .308 brass is cheap.
.300 blackout practice, maybe 4-5 a box, it adds up. If Wolf ever imported steel case I would be done reloading it.

Bottom line if I had the money-doubt I would reload as I would have the means to shoot more and go to other places to do it.

 

[Juggerxxx]

I spend way more money reloading than I ever did buying factory ammo. But I enjoy the hell out of reloading and shooting way more now, way more than I did with factory ammo.

 

[shoot4fun]

If you're going into the reloading venture to load ONLY 6.5 Creedmoor then don't.
When I started reloading 40+ years ago I bought some used gear at a very cheap price and my sole intention was to save $$. Today I could probably buy an ammo company for what I have invested in reloading gear alone . If I only loaded for one, even two, calibers I could not ever justify the cost vs. reward but I have loaded hundreds of thousands of pistol rounds alone over those many years and not to even mention the rifle rounds.
The biggest reward, in my opinion, for "rolling your own" is the satisfaction when you win with your ammo or you take that trophy animal with your ammo.

 

[Milo 2.5]

We all take our hobbies to different levels, that said, I wont try convince you either way. Myself, I would not shoot if I didn't reload, and would spend even more on equipment before buying factory ammo, I've reloaded for 31 yrs. Price of manufactured ammo is a big turn off to me.
Plus, other than pistol and 223 ammo, you can't buy loaded rds for the cases I shoot, 7 saum, 6 comp match, 6 slr, 6x47, 6xc(maybe), I have a 6 creed in paint now, can buy ammo but wont.

My take, you build a custom rifle, you owe it to yourself and the smith that built it to craft the most accurate loads you're capable of.

 

[samnev]

If your going to be reloading for a long time and don't mind the you'll spend reloading then its worth it. I've bee reloading for 50 years and the cost of my equipment (Rockchucker, Ohaus 10-10 scale, Dillon 550 press RCBS ChargeMaster) has long since paid for itself. You can never tell what else you'll be reloading for in the future. At 100 rounds a week that's 5200 rounds a year. At $1.50 a round thats about $7800 in ammo cost. You can reload that any rounds for less than that so your equipment should pay for itself in less than a year. So if you don't mind the time it takes to reload go for it. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Sheldon N]

If you reload, what is the cost per round? I would think for my needs I would likely go with a single stage, since I don't think I would load more than 100 rounds a week and I can tolerate to do that with a single stage.

Do the economics make sense to pay upfront for the reloading tools for someone that is going to shoot 100 rounds a week? I tell you, if I have to shell out $1.5 per round, I will stick with my 22 or accurize my 223 and pay alot less for quality ammo.

If you plan to shoot 100 rounds a week of 6.5 Creed using match grade components here's how the math breaks down.

Cost per shot of components is roughly $0.65 (including amortizing the cost of Lapua brass across 20 firings)

Plan on spending $2k on reloading equipment. That's a fairly realistic number... seems high starting out but it's where you'll end up long term if you reload that much.

If you're paying $1.50/rd for factory ammo then your breakeven point is at 2,350 rounds or 24 weeks of shooting. So basically by the time you are close to shooting out your first barrel you'll be ahead on total cost savings. So YES, from a cost savings standpoint you definitely should consider reloading.

The only thing I would add is that this represents a large amount of time to reload all that ammo. I know you said you'd be fine doing it with a single stage but the biggest piece of advice I could have given myself earlier on is to go progressive press with a Dillon 550 for precision ammo. You can read up on how to do it properly, and when done right it gives up nothing to a single stage press. I'm shooting roughly 4,000 rounds of precision ammo a year and spent my first year loading on a single stage. Going to the Dillon 550 has saved me a couple hours a week in time at the loading bench.

 

[EddieE]

Thanks guys. Appreciate your view points and opinions. I agree, that there is a huge up front cost, and time commitment. Also, you are right, that when you get a new gun, you shoot it alot, then it kinda sits around. So, I may start shooting 100 rounds on a given week, but that is likely going to go down as the gun becomes less of a novelty. I also shoot 9mm, 38, 45, 357, etc. So, if I do get into reloading, I would definitely reload other calibers. As far as time commitment, I'd be sitting around watching tv, so not to concerned about the time. I really would like to get into the long range game...but need LOTS of trigger time. That comes with a $$$ value attached to it that is hard to swallow.

We will see how things go. At the moment, I'm insane about my new 22 and it only costs me $8 per 100 rounds to shoot. That is something I can accept

 

[GhengisAhn175]

One thing for sure: a reloading class or mentor.

many people think you can get by by asking questions on forums like snipershide.

All it does is just create confusion really and many times bad judgement calls because opinions aren't tailored to the OP.

If anything, follow one persons regimen then explore because you'll be making your own path with purpose behind them and not "because the internet consensus said so"

case in point: how you clean cases. Don't care if you go vibratory, ultrasonic or tumbling. Each have their pros and cons and no one should say one is absolutely superior to another. It really depends on the end users preference...

dont get us started on "which sizing die"

 

[Bradu]

If you plan to shoot 100 rounds a week of 6.5 Creed using match grade components here's how the math breaks down.

Cost per shot of components is roughly $0.65 (including amortizing the cost of Lapua brass across 20 firings)

Plan on spending $2k on reloading equipment. That's a fairly realistic number... seems high starting out but it's where you'll end up long term if you reload that much.

If you're paying $1.50/rd for factory ammo then your breakeven point is at 2,350 rounds or 24 weeks of shooting. So basically by the time you are close to shooting out your first barrel you'll be ahead on total cost savings. So YES, from a cost savings standpoint you definitely should consider reloading.

The only thing I would add is that this represents a large amount of time to reload all that ammo. I know you said you'd be fine doing it with a single stage but the biggest piece of advice I could have given myself earlier on is to go progressive press with a Dillon 550 for precision ammo. You can read up on how to do it properly, and when done right it gives up nothing to a single stage press. I'm shooting roughly 4,000 rounds of precision ammo a year and spent my first year loading on a single stage. Going to the Dillon 550 has saved me a couple hours a week in time at the loading bench.

This is a great post although I will admit I still use a single stage. Everyone thinks they can get by with the $300 entry level kit and let's face it, we all upgrade a little at a time. Only thing left is my press from the RCBS kit, I now have 2 chargemasters and two Giraud trimmers. I didn't need the second trimmer but a friend got out of reloading and I bought it from him.

 

[TripleBull]

I know a guy that shoots a huge amount of handgun - 9 mm and 357 mag, and a fair bit of rifle. Most of his loading bench is gear from Lee, so his equipment cost is pretty low. When consumables are on sale, he stocks up big so his cost per round is very low. He scrounges brass at local ranges, etc. I do agree that Lee makes very cost-effective reloading gear but not necessarily the first choice for long distance and in some cases they might not sell dies for your cartridge.

Bottom line: I agree with others above that talk about the reasons why you might want to hand-load and where it might save some bucks, but my friend (above) will admit that even with his miserly approach, he just shoots more and still spends all his spare cash on powder, primers and bullets. He probably invests 30 hours a week at the bench.

 

[yakstone]

If I did not reload, I could not afford to shoot as much as I do. I have 2 Dillon 550s. One set for small primer and one for large primer. I load for several rifles as well as 9mm and .45ACP.
Once you get it down, its fun, relaxing and gratifying.
Go for it. In the end you will have quite a bit invested in equipment, but if you shoot a lot, it does pay for itself by cutting your ammo costs basically in half.

 

[spife7980]

I dont tell people that it will save money because in general it wont for what I do.

BUT you will be able to shoot a superior round for the price of cheap surplus ammo. I could shoot a cheap FMJ surplus 1.5moa round for 32 cents per shot. OR I could shoot a nosler rdf in lapua brass over xbr that is custom tailored to my rifle for the same price and .5 moa results. Its the upgrade in quality for me and not lowering the bottom line.

If I were shooting a 45 pistol or something then maybe I could save some cash but I havent shot a pistol in months and I dont pump lead down range indiscriminately with an AR. Hell, I havent shot anything under 12x magnification since then either. "If its not accurate its not interesting" is a philosophy I ascribe to.

 

[kujuak]

If you want to save money, play bridge, don't shoot. Reloading saves money compared to what you would spend on store bought, BUT!! I find I shoot a whole lot more than if I had to buy the ammo. I reload for a Winchester71 for instance, that ammo costs about $85/20rds, I tend to shoot 50 rds every
time I get that rifle out. Costs me about $20 or so in components as I stocked up several years ago. Going through 40-50 rds of match grade 308 every range visit would get pretty costly too. BUT, don't tell , rthe wifey what I spent on Berger bullets, bench rest primers and 8 lbers of powder last month. Shooting is expensive, reloading will save you in the long, long run, BUT you will shoot a helluva lot more than the non reloader, and you'll get better results down range in most cases.

 

[EddieE]

I see the Dillon 550 came up in this discussion. Does the Dillon produce ammo with high degree of consistency? I have heard that if you want the best performance, you should go with a slower single stage. Anyway, thanks for all the replies.

 

[yakstone]

The press is only part of the equation.
High quality precision dies and understanding each step of the process are the keys to consistent quality rounds.
The 550 is self indexing and can essentially be used just like a single stage if you wanted to use it that way.
For me, time is the asset that I am most limited on and I want to make the most of it. The 550 give you options. If I did not have the 550, I would look at the Redding T7 turret press.

 

[Sheldon N]

I see the Dillon 550 came up in this discussion. Does the Dillon produce ammo with high degree of consistency? I have heard that if you want the best performance, you should go with a slower single stage. Anyway, thanks for all the replies.

With good dies and good setup, yes the Dillon 550 can make precision rifle ammo just as good as a single stage. Keys are getting everything in good alignment and free floating the dies either with a rubber o-ring or a custom floating die toolhead (I just use o-rings). I separate brass prep from loading into two toolheads. Brass prep is perfect, every case dimensionally consistent for headspace and size and very low runout, less than 0.001", as good or better than my single stage. For loading you need to manually weigh powder and use a funnel in one of the stations if you want precision ammo, but a good load with the powder thrower can also be a handy thing to have for practice ammo. Easy to swap back and forth between the two as well.

The Dillon just feeds cases faster, lets you run multiple operations at once, and has more flexibility for swapping between calibers and running true progressive when you need it.