Critique my annealing..

[Aimsmall55]

Been annealing myself for a while now but never really asked the guys on here who know their stuff if this looks correct. My method is simple, a butane torch and a drill with a socket adapter. As soon as I see any indicator of "blue" I drop em. They really do add to accurracy and a bit of speed. But for all you guys who know your stuff .. Does this look ok to you??

 

[Twelve208]

The stuff to the left looks identical to factory Lapua brass..I do the same method as you,and try to match it color wise to my virgin lapua brass.
Are you also quenching your brass?

 

[Temp9]

Looks perfect, good job!

 

[Aimsmall55]

The stuff to the left looks identical to factory Lapua brass..I do the same method as you,and try to match it color wise to my virgin lapua brass.
Are you also quenching your brass?

No quenching. Just dropping them into a metal bowl.

 

[Aimsmall55]

Looks perfect, good job!

Thanks temp

 

[ChrisGarrett]

The Art and Science of Annealing

 

[M40_A1]

Annealing is new to me (so I don't know my stuff yet), but I bought some 700 degree Tempilaq from the get go just so I would be sure. After trying it out, I was surprised at how little color change there was when done properly, almost undiscernable. I would think the ones you are showing are overdone, but what do I know? (You might want to get some Tempilaq.)

 

[ZiaHunter]

I is difficult to tell by color alone. I anneal with a machine and different makes of brass will yield different degrees of color even when the same heat and time is applied. When setting up the machine I use Tempilaq on some sacrificial cases to get get the proper setting. I would recommend getting some Tempilaq.

 

[Aimsmall55]

I use tempilaq to get my initial "feel" for what I should be looking for. Sorry should have mentioned that. I will say that I've been doing it this way for about 2 years and have never had one issue except in the beginning when I almost really screwed up. (Another story) but thank you guy's for your opinions. I really appreciate it. AS

 

[Aimsmall55]

I is difficult to tell by color alone. I anneal with a machine and different makes of brass will yield different degrees of color even when the same heat and time is applied. When setting up the machine I use Tempilaq on some sacrificial cases to get get the proper setting. I would recommend getting some Tempilaq.

I've noticed that too. But I use Rp brass exclusively for my .300 win mag and the time to drop them is much easier to tell than say lapua. I don't even attemp lapua bc there's almost no color change at all. That being said I really only anneal for my .300 's bc the lack of quality brass and from what I've seen annealing them really does make my loads a bit more accurate

 

[chariotdriver]

Looks like new Lapua brass. How long have you been doing them like this and how does the brass hold up.....number of reloads? That is what really matters; also tells the real story.

 

[M40_A1]

I don't even attemp lapua bc there's almost no color change at all.

Ah! Then that would explain it. Thanks.

 

[diderr]

left side perfect. right side not enough. also may go a little lower on the case as well

 

[Aimsmall55]

Ok I just got done with a batch. Does this look better. The lighting in the room is a little dim but what ya think??

 

[Aimsmall55]

 

[milo 2.0]

Stew,
I think they look good, must 300 wm, look long enough where no excessive heat reached the head area. Look better than mine done on a Giraud annealing machine.
I over annealed about 12 cases, they were just black in the neck-shoulder area, I fired them 3 times to see what would happen, nothing, so IMHO, it's pretty hard to mess this stuff up as long as you don't get the base hot!!

 

[cjherrman]

All of this brass looks horrible. You should drop them in the mail and send them to me. I will load them up and tell you if they are satisfactory or not.

 

[shoot4fun]

I think you need to wash your hands .......HAHAHAAHAHAHA!
Really the brass looks mighty fine. My $500 Bench Source won't do any better.

 

[Iamironman]

The stuff to the left looks identical to factory Lapua brass..I do the same method as you,and try to match it color wise to my virgin lapua brass.
Are you also quenching your brass?

You don't quench brass

 

[Aimsmall55]

Stew,
I think they look good, must 300 wm, look long enough where no excessive heat reached the head area. Look better than mine done on a Giraud annealing machine.
I over annealed about 12 cases, they were just black in the neck-shoulder area, I fired them 3 times to see what would happen, nothing, so IMHO, it's pretty hard to mess this stuff up as long as you don't get the base hot!!

Thanks Miles. I've been doing this a while but was a little hesitant to put how I did it on here for fear that the "know it alls" would rail on me because it didn't cost me 500$. It may not be the most precise annealing method but it works for me.
Cj... No dice

 

[Aimsmall55]

I think you need to wash your hands .......HAHAHAAHAHAHA!
Really the brass looks mighty fine. My $500 Bench Source won't do any better.

Lmao...!! That's exactly what my wife just told me

 

[hdbiker1]

I use 750° Tempilaq on a Giraud, and like said, Lapua just changes to a different shade of gold. As long as your brass doesn't show a red (meaning you've cooked out some zinc) it should be good to go. If you do see some red, pinch the mouth hard between your thumb and second knuckle of your index finger. If it deforms, you're dead soft and it might not maintain neck tension.

 

[Aimsmall55]

I use 750° Tempilaq on a Giraud, and like said, Lapua just changes to a different shade of gold. As long as your brass doesn't show a red (meaning you've cooked out some zinc) it should be good to go. If you do see some red, pinch the mouth hard between your thumb and second knuckle of your index finger. If it deforms, you're dead soft and it might not maintain neck tension.

I've got the 750 degree as well. How long do you let yours dry before testing ?

 

[hdbiker1]

I've got the 750 degree as well. How long do you let yours dry before testing ?

I brush the complete inside of the neck on about three pieces and let them sit for about a minute to dry. When dry, it'll have a light chalky look.

 

[Aimsmall55]

I brush the complete inside of the neck on about three pieces and let them sit for about a minute to dry. When dry, it'll have a light chalky look.

Then it just kind of melts away at that temp correct??

 

[hdbiker1]

Then it just kind of melts away at that temp correct??

When it reaches temp, it'll turn clear and yes, kinda melts.

 

[shooter101]

Ok I just got done with a batch. Does this look better. The lighting in the room is a little dim but what ya think??

The brass looks fine, tell me more about the Chick Fillet box. Breakfast or lunch? See you in Sumrall.

 

[diderr]

Do you guys air cool or dunk? I heard over on 6mmbr forum that for some reason air drying is better, and also heard the contrary. I air dry; mainly so I don't have to tumble the brass again to dry it.

 

[Killshot44]

Ok I just got done with a batch. Does this look better. The lighting in the room is a little dim but what ya think??

These look better but you really can't go by looks alone because as mentioned, different makes will have different thickness and even brass structure, which determines how long the dwell time needs to be. Tempilaq is a MUST until you've done enough to know what the brass requires. I do a lot of annealing for customers and see all types of brass, Tempilaq and an infrared temp gun help with my set up.

Do you guys air cool or dunk? I heard over on 6mmbr forum that for some reason air drying is better, and also heard the contrary. I air dry; mainly so I don't have to tumble the brass again to dry it.

Water quenching only makes your brass wet. Once out of the flame the brass doesn't continue to get hotter. Just ensure that with short cases (ie;300BLK) that you aren't getting the bottom 1/2" of the case above 500º. Again, Tempilaq....

 

[Aimsmall55]

These look better but you really can't go by looks alone because as mentioned, different makes will have different thickness and even brass structure, which determines how long the dwell time needs to be. Tempilaq is a MUST until you've done enough to know what the brass requires. I do a lot of annealing for customers and see all types of brass, Tempilaq and an infrared temp gun help with my set up.

I do use tempilaq. Just as a starting point. But I should mention that earlier in the thread I stated only use RP brass And that is the only brass I anneal for. But with belted magnums better safe than sorry. And I really appreciate your input. AS

 

[M40_A1]

So far, R-P and Rem-UMC are the only ones that have turned that bluish color on me, and danged if they are not also the only ones so far that gall and scratch on the neck during sizing after annealing, and that is using 700 degree Tempilaq. Isn't this galling indicative of soft brass (as in maybe too soft)? How the heck are some guys getting away using 750-degree Tempilaq?

 

[AKGuide]

My rp brass looks the same, but I only come an 1/8" below the shoulder with the blue. The nosler brass that I use also shows some blue just not as much. Also add a little lube to the necks to help with the scratching when resizing and make sure your die doesn't have any brass shavings in it. Clean it with whatever you use to clean your rifles with and adding some lube to your case necks will eliminate the galling.

Reuben

 

[M40_A1]

Also add a little lube to the necks to help with the scratching when resizing and make sure your die doesn't have any brass shavings in it. Clean it with whatever you use to clean your rifles with and adding some lube to your case necks will eliminate the galling.

Reuben

Thanks. I did do that, with the same results. Now, RCBS water based lube has been good to me on everything else so far (except trying to size some LC brass- another story). I sure like the easy rinse off. But, maybe for this I might have to try something else. Strange.

 

[Boogaloo]

I do it the same (cheap/inexpensive) way AimSmall does it and have had great results with accuracy, neck tension, and case life so far. I bought more powder and primers with the money I saved on an expensive machine. Takes me roughly 20 minutes to do 100 cases. I can bang through 300 in an hour and I am good to go for a couple weeks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mi3OoeYUPec

 

[Macmathews]

Annealing is new to me (so I don't know my stuff yet), but I bought some 700 degree Tempilaq from the get go just so I would be sure. After trying it out, I was surprised at how little color change there was when done properly, almost undiscernable. I would think the ones you are showing are overdone, but what do I know? (You might want to get some Tempilaq.)

I was thinking the same, but I am sure the OP knows better than me !

Kyle

 

[deepskyridge]

I have used the drill and socket method, I was looking for a more automated method so I am building one.

finished the auto annealer today

I think the guy that started this is a member on the Hide.

Lots of pics and variations on the CB site.

Gary

 

[Aimsmall55]

I was thinking the same, but I am sure the OP knows better than me !

Kyle

I shot that brass that was in the first picture of the thread yesterday. First, when I seated the bullets they had a smooth, almost "virgin lapua" feel to them. I could actually feel the neck gripping itself around the bullet. Secondly ... I was trying out a new load (215 Berger hybrids in a 5r milspec) 3. They shot fantastic... 4 shots at 105 yards ..

And 6 shots at 235 yards Bottom 4 were a different powder charge and the 2 center were my high node..

So I'd say the annealing was ok

 

[Macmathews]

Testing them out is great.
But your only going to know after the brass dosen't last.

I have annealed lapua brass just recently and could not get it to turn that colour without WAY too much heat..
I did this just to test the limits and final product.

I will say again though - I am likely very NEW to this compared to you.. only reloading for a few years now !

Kyle

 

[Aimsmall55]

I'm not only annealing for longevity, but mainly for Accuracy. I'm doing it to make my bullets stay accurate as possible. Once a primer pocket is gone ... There's no annealing for that.
I've heard many br shooters say they anneal their brass after every firing.

Kyle, I am not trying to be a smart ass... I promise... But have you shot your annealed brass ? If so you can't argue the fact that while seating the bullet you can almost feel the neck mold to the bullet as it stretches (alot like virgin lapua brass) which in my book has given me outstanding accuracy and yes more longevity.
Some of that brass in the groups I shot was 2x fired , some 3x. Point is that annealing serves more than just longevity.

 

[pgk]

Awesome job Gary! That is sweet! Let us know how it works.. Does it have a single speed or variable speed motor?

Pete

I have used the drill and socket method, I was looking for a more automated method so I am building one.

finished the auto annealer today

I think the guy that started this is a member on the Hide.

Lots of pics and variations on the CB site.

Gary

 

[Macmathews]

I'm not only annealing for longevity, but mainly for Accuracy. I'm doing it to make my bullets stay accurate as possible. Once a primer pocket is gone ... There's no annealing for that.
I've heard many br shooters say they anneal their brass after every firing.

Kyle, I am not trying to be a smart ass... I promise... But have you shot your annealed brass ? If so you can't argue the fact that while seating the bullet you can almost feel the neck mold to the bullet as it stretches (alot like virgin lapua brass) which in my book has given me outstanding accuracy and yes more longevity.
Some of that brass in the groups I shot was 2x fired , some 3x. Point is that annealing serves more than just longevity.

I haven't had the chance to notice the fruits of my labour. I have 300 pieces of lapua 308 brass.
And have annealed about 200 pieces, after 3 firings. I still have 100 firings to go before betting to the freshly annealed stuff. I'll be sure to pay attention though..

FYI - I have learned from this thread. I can guarantee I am a better shooter because of this website !