Critique my high end build please.

[Trevor300wsm]

Hey guys,

Let me start off by saying I'm not nearly as up to speed on AR's as I am on bolt guns. I own a few nice AR's, but I've bought most of them as complete lowers and uppers and just put them together. I've never done a complete build. I want to build a nice AR from high(er) quality components. Price really isn't any issue here, but I don't want to spend foolishly with no return benefit. This will be "do all" rifle for plinking, home defense, and just to shoot when I feel like it. My main goals are reliability, quality parts, and accuracy (to a degree for what this is). ***This will be used with my Shark suppressor.

Here is what I have so far. Please give your opinions, but please don't bash anything if you don't have first hand experience with it.

Choice between Seekins billet upper/lower set
Or
Vltor Mur 1A with a Noveske chainsaw Gen 2 lower

JP supermatch 14.5" barrel with JP enhance matching bolt
JP adjustable .750" low pro gas block
JP silent captured spring or (Tubb flatwire spring?)

Noveske NSR-13.5 Handguard

Daniel Defense Lower parts kit

SSA-E or SD3G tigger (I have a SSA-E, but never tried the SD3G)

Daniel defense buffer tube

Magpul UBR stock (or maybe a CTR as I have a few of them)

MIAD grip

How does look so far? Am I missing anything?

 

[MSTN]

I've enjoyed working with Seekins uppers. I've built half a dozen uppers with them. The only problem I've had with anything from Seekins is the uppers did not come with forward assist or ejection port cover as stated on their website. Another issue is the screws provided with a few of the SP3R handguards were either the incorrect length or poorly turned out from longer screws simply chopped off, without a trip through a die to clean up the end.

Now, I realize you were considering the Seekins billet upper that attaches a forend in a conventional manner. The Seekins IRMT-3 upper is pretty unique in its design and offers the stiffest chassis for an AR' upper of anything short of an LMT MRP. It's easy to see why:

My own 14.5" gun with Seekins IRMT-3 and SP3R forend:

But, I use the Vltor MUR upper receivers for just about everything these days.

I don't care for the esthetics of the Seekins lower, but that's just me. I prefer the Vltor lower with their patented A-5 recoil system. I like their lighter A1 buffer with a mid-length 14.5" barrel.

The JP 14.5" barrel is stainless, lightweight in contour. This is less than ideal for suppressed use. I'd suggest rethinking the lightweight part. Or going chrome moly HFCL.

I've had poor results from my JP silent captured spring assembly in two different .308 gas guns. Your mileage may vary, of course.

The NSR hand guards are light, sleek, and very hip with KeyMod attachment points. I've built dozens with no problems.

In a day long carbine class with an NSR forend, don't forget your gloves! Skinny and light forends regardless of design or material will get hot.

You can't go wrong with either Geissele trigger. One advantage the SD3G has is it comes with two different trigger springs, giving you a choice of a 3.5 or 4.5 pound trigger pull.

Why go with a lightweight barrel and add a tank-like heavy UBR stock? I'd rather have extra mass in the barrel than the buttstock. There are plenty of lighter and less expensive buttsstocks that give a better cheek weld, too.

 

[Trevor300wsm]

I've enjoyed working with Seekins uppers. I've built half a dozen uppers with them. The only problem I've had with anything from Seekins is the uppers did not come with forward assist or ejection port cover as stated on their website. Another issue is the screws provided with a few of the SP3R handguards were either the incorrect length or poorly turned out from longer screws simply chopped off, without a trip through a die to clean up the end.

Now, I realize you were considering the Seekins billet upper that attaches a forend in a conventional manner. The Seekins IRMT-3 upper is pretty unique in its design and offers the stiffest chassis for an AR' upper of anything short of an LMT MRP. It's easy to see why:

My own 14.5" gun with Seekins IRMT-3 and SP3R forend:

But, I use the Vltor MUR upper receivers for just about everything these days.

I don't care for the esthetics of the Seekins lower, but that's just me. I prefer the Vltor lower with their patented A-5 recoil system. I like their lighter A1 buffer with a mid-length 14.5" barrel.

The JP 14.5" barrel is stainless, lightweight in contour. This is less than ideal for suppressed use. I'd suggest rethinking the lightweight part. Or going chrome moly HFCL.

I've had poor results from my JP silent captured spring assembly in two different .308 gas guns. Your mileage may vary, of course.

The NSR hand guards are light, sleek, and very hip with KeyMod attachment points. I've built dozens with no problems.

In a day long carbine class with an NSR forend, don't forget your gloves! Skinny and light forends regardless of design or material will get hot.

You can't go wrong with either Geissele trigger. One advantage the SD3G has is it comes with two different trigger springs, giving you a choice of a 3.5 or 4.5 pound trigger pull.

Why go with a lightweight barrel and add a tank-like heavy UBR stock? I'd rather have extra mass in the barrel than the buttstock. There are plenty of lighter and less expensive buttsstocks that give a better cheek weld, too.

Thank you greatly for your input. I've seen a few of your builds and I was hoping you would comment here. I have a few questions.

1.) reccomend me a 14.5" barrel w/ mid gas that you feel is the best and that I will not have to wait months for. I'm having trouble finding "in-stock" barrels. I wanted a Rainier Ultramatch, but can't find one.

2.) The IRMT-3 has to be used with the Seekins forend, correct? No others will fit due to the attatchment setup right?

3.) I'm not set on the UBR stock. I have CTR's on my other rifles.

4.) If I don't go with a JP barrel w/ bolt included, how do you feel about the LMT BCG and the Wilsom Combat NP3 plated BCG?

 

[Little gator]

Hey guys,

Let me start off by saying I'm not nearly as up to speed on AR's as I am on bolt guns. I own a few nice AR's, but I've bought most of them as complete lowers and uppers and just put them together. I've never done a complete build. I want to build a nice AR from high(er) quality components. Price really isn't any issue here, but I don't want to spend foolishly with no return benefit. This will be "do all" rifle for plinking, home defense, and just to shoot when I feel like it. My main goals are reliability, quality parts, and accuracy (to a degree for what this is). ***This will be used with my Shark suppressor.

Here is what I have so far. Please give your opinions, but please don't bash anything if you don't have first hand experience with it.

Choice between Seekins billet upper/lower set
Or
Vltor Mur 1A with a Noveske chainsaw Gen 2 lower

JP supermatch 14.5" barrel with JP enhance matching bolt
JP adjustable .750" low pro gas block
JP silent captured spring or (Tubb flatwire spring?)

Noveske NSR-13.5 Handguard

Daniel Defense Lower parts kit

SSA-E or SD3G tigger (I have a SSA-E, but never tried the SD3G)

Daniel defense buffer tube

Magpul UBR stock (or maybe a CTR as I have a few of them)

MIAD grip

How does look so far? Am I missing anything?

I ass-u-me it's a 5.56/.223
Save your money on the dd lower parts kit...odds are you can single order it from brownells or dpms. Your replacing the tripper so all the other stuff doesn't "matter"

Sbr with a silencer I would personally get a piston gas system. With adjustable gas block. And unless your really don't try to convert your DI carrier to a piston. Bite the bullet and buy a piston carrier group. But there are those that say it's an unneeded.

The seeking lower is way cooler. Il internet slap you if you don't go voltor> seekins

Do NOT get a silent capture or any other spiffy hydraulic buffer. get the center less spring. Since reliability is a big factor for you, you don't want a shit load of extra and unneeded bs. It's a .223 get a half way descent comp recoil solved. And no worry of malfunction. But jp makes great stuff I'm not saying it will fail, It just CAN fail.

The next part is completely personal opinion take it or leave it.

IMO get a 16" barrel no tax stamp and it's not on file with big brother.if you HAVE to have a short barrel Since your buying a new lower get one of them ar pistol arm braces from sig. Just like a butt stock. And make a pistol. No stamp no prints nothing on file. But that's just what I would do.

ok I'm done rambling.

 

[MSTN]

1.) reccomend me a 14.5" barrel w/ mid gas that you feel is the best and that I will not have to wait months for. I'm having trouble finding "in-stock" barrels. I wanted a Rainier Ultramatch, but can't find one.

What type ammo will you be shooting? With what type optics? Who says you really need a match grade SS barrel? For the type shooting you describe, a quality HFCL barrel like a Noveske N4 would serve you well. Only 26.5 ounces, stiff enough to support a suppressor, and MOA capable or better with match grade ammo. Everyone has a half dozen or so of them lying around as spares, right? ALL NFA RULES APPLY.

2.) The IRMT-3 has to be used with the Seekins forend, correct? No others will fit due to the attatchment setup right?

Correct. But the Seekens forends are pretty nice, too. The newest version of the SP3R offers KeyMod attachment points, too. But, since it does not appear you're building a full house precision rig, a standard format receiver will do everything you need to do and give you a broader choice of handguards.

3.) I'm not set on the UBR stock. I have CTR's on my other rifles.

A Vltor IMOD, LMT SOPMOD, or Magpul STR gives you the good old 20th century Colt Advanced Combat Rifle cheek weld. None better! Yes, they're all copies in that respect.

4.) If I don't go with a JP barrel w/ bolt included, how do you feel about the LMT BCG and the Wilsom Combat NP3 plated BCG?

At least JP appreciates the significance of a properly fitted bolt! Had to get that in.

I have no experience with the Wilson product, but I did send a batch of bolts to Robar in the nineties for NP-3 coating. The bolts cleaned up well, but the extractors would slip off case rims. I think too much of the coating may have built up in the extractor cut?!?

The stock LMT BCG is a solid product.

I really like the LMT shot peened, proof round tested, MP inspected bolts - especially after they've been Ionbond Diamondblack ("D/B") coated all the way down to the gas rings. Same for Young MFG forged, then centerless ground, then hard chromed, then D/B coated, as well.

JP makes some nice bolt carriers, too. I have one of their SS ones D/B coated I've used for 8 years now.

LMT bolts are coming in with +/- 0.001" tolerances, with 80% within half that in the last batch of forty. And LMT bolts are not truly "standard". They come with a Crane O-ring, the best six cents Karl Lewis ever spent on performance, and a stress relief cut behind the lugs. We've had great luck with them for almost ten years now.

However, to ensure optimum headspace for the application envisioned for a rifle, we recommend the bolt be headspaced at 1.4646" for precision, and 1.4666" for hard use. We accomplish this with a set of ten PTG headspace gauges in 0.001" increments. Plus top shelf LMT bolts - and carefully crafted Noveske barrels. The majority of our LMT bolts will headspace at 1.4646" in Noveske SS barrels. The majority of our LMT bolts will headspace at 1.4666" in our N4 barrels. Working with quality components from manufacturers who understand what they're doing really makes the job easier.

We did not discuss charging handles. For suppressed use, I'm a huge fan of the PRI Gas Buster. Helps keep most of the gas out of your face. With a Shark, you'll have lots of back pressure, too. Even for unsuppressed applications, the Gas Buster a plus, from a safety point of view. A shooting buddy had a case head separation using a top shelf manufacture's reman ammo. Among other things, it blew out the bottom of the magazine. The Gas Buster kept the gas out of his eyes.

 

[texasplinker]

Unless you really think your rifle needs to double as club, the ubr is overkill. I have one on a rifle, it looks cool. Shoots ok. And weighs a ton. I often wonder why it is still on my gun.

+1 ssae.

 

[B.A.C.]

From the list you've provide I'm a little curious why you're not consiering a factory rifle from Noveske or JP. Nevertheless, my definition of high end builds only includes those with matching uppers and lowers. Mega Arms is great and a lot of people here like Seekins as well. Last I knew, Syrac Ordnance made the gas blocks for JP and are slightly cheaper. Skip the DD LPK. You can find LPKs without the FCG for ~$30. I don't think you will be giving up much, if anything, by going with a CTR over a UBR. Lastly, I prefer the feel of an Ergo grip over a Magpul, but there's nothing wrong with either.

 

[MarkCO]

Realizing that half of building is picking the parts YOU like, here are some thoughts...

Billet receivers add nothing except weight. For suppressed, you might want to consider the JP receivers. They are Teflon coated, which is nice, and they clean up easier.

You did not mention a BCG, but for suppressed, you will likely want a M16 coated BCG. Barnes Precision makes a great BCG with NiB coating, also a benefit for suppressed. They run great in the JP receivers.

Barrels...I just hate pinned muzzle devices and 1.5" off for $200 does not seem like a good deal to me. A 16" with Mid-gas is going to be pretty soft shooting. I am not sure I would go with a supermatch barrel either. The Del-Ton 16" mid-gas chrome lined barrels are very good. They are Wilson's, like JPs, so you are getting a very good barrel with longer life and better suited to suppressed use. Mine all shoot right about MOA out to 300 yards, and yes, with a Chrome-lined bore.

Gasblocks...adjustable gas and suppressed, at least with the ones you are talking about, you are looking for some failures. I've just seen too many suppressed ARs have issues due to gas leakage with the JP. You also really have to adjust them and then lock them in. They are not a "adjust as needed" part. You want a tough gasblock that does not leak for a suppressed AR. Skip the JP silent spring. Go with a standard spring and buffer.

The Noveske NSR-13.5 Handguard, just make sure your GB fits underneath, or get the shorter one, but great HG.

Lower parts, just buy the individual parts so you don't have a trigger hanging around and get tempted to use it. I am not a fan of the Geissele triggers, but that is just a preference thing. The POF triggers are not often mentioned, but they are very rugged and what I choose for my 2 suppressed ARs.

DD parts are good to go as are the Mag-Pul furniture. I think a UBR is a bit overkill and may negatively affect balance.

A PRI gas buster, or a BCM Mod4, needs to go on the list too.

 

[MarkCO]

Sorry, DT.

 

[Trevor300wsm]

Thanks to everyone for the helpful replies.

 

[dodgefreak8]

I highly recommend rainier arms for almost all the parts you are asking for. Great Barrels, Nib-X coated mil-spec bolt carrier groups etc. Geissele triggers are awesome as well.