Custom tikka vs. tikka t3x tac a1

[Goldbluff]

Im thinking about building a 6.5 creedmoor rifle from the tikka action. Eurooptic.com has a tikka t3 lite .270 Winchester for $419 and a “t3x” lite .223. For $628. If I’m only buying the rifle for the action, is the t3x worth $209 more? Besides the metal bolt shroud, what are the major differences in the action if any at all?

I’m planning on putting it in a krg Bravo chassis with a bartlein heavy Palma 1:7 twist 5r barrel.

I’ve got a quote to build it, and to true the action face, chamber the barrel, and to have it threaded and put together including the chassis it would cost $2000. Would this set up be a better shooter than the tikka t3x tac a1 for $1800?

 

[b6graham]

truing the action face is probably a waste of time and money on a tikka

i'd just pick up a used one on here, they come up quite a bit and normally upgraded

note, the 223 has a different bolt face than a 6.5 creed so that wouldn't work and 270 is long action

 

[Jrb572]

I agree with above. Several Smith’s I contacted when I had my Tikka barreled said do not worry about truing it. I got it back and it shoots great.

 

[Goldbluff]

truing the action face is probably a waste of time and money on a tikka

i'd just pick up a used one on here, they come up quite a bit and normally upgraded

note, the 223 has a different bolt face than a 6.5 creed so that wouldn't work and 270 is long action

Thanks, I keep an out out for one on here, would it have to be a 6.5 creed action or are the any other chambers that would be compatible?

 

[Jrb572]

270 should work it would just need a different bolt stop

 

[b6graham]

Thanks, I keep an out out for one on here, would it have to be a 6.5 creed action or are the any other chambers that would be compatible?

308, 243 are the normal ones for the standard bolt face size

 

[Goldbluff]

308, 243 are the normal ones for the standard bolt face size

Thanks for the help

 

[proftwo]

Unless You are in a hurry check out Gun.deals.I bought My tikka t3x tac a1 for $1300. The same place is now selling them for $1550. So prices fluctuate daily.

 

[Goldbluff]

Bad ass rifle...butter smooth action. Either way it comes down to personal preference. Do you want the Tac-A1 chassis or a stock of your choosing. I personally would buy the CTR and take of pick of your style chassis or stock. Whatever feels right to you. Personally I would go with the stock and try to save weight if your going to be packing that thing while hunting. Carrying a super heavy rifle for miles through the forestsucks.

That’s what I was thinking, the krg Bravo stock/chassis is only 2.9 lbs. which I like. the ctr was also another option I was considering. I’ve found a t3x ctr 6.5 creed for 1k and the Bravo is $389. So $1389. Do you think the extra $600 for building one with the bartlein barrel would be worth it or should I just go with the ctr option?

 

[b6graham]

That’s what I was thinking, the krg Bravo stock/chassis is only 2.9 lbs. which I like. the ctr was also another option I was considering. I’ve found a t3x ctr 6.5 creed for 1k and the Bravo is $389. So $1389. Do you think the extra $600 for building one with the bartlein barrel would be worth it or should I just go with the ctr option?

i'd shoot out the factory CTR barrel first. it will be accurate but probably a hair slow. then upgrade it

 

[Goldbluff]

Unless You are in a hurry check out Gun.deals.I bought My tikka t3x tac a1 for $1300. The same place is now selling them for $1550. So prices fluctuate daily.

Thanks for the tip

 

[patriot07]

i'd shoot out the factory CTR barrel first. it will be accurate but probably a hair slow. then upgrade it

Yep

Buy the CTR, shoot out the factory barrel (which is accurate but slow), and then upgrade.

 

[260284]

Im thinking about building a 6.5 creedmoor rifle from the tikka action. Eurooptic.com has a tikka t3 lite .270 Winchester for $419 and a “t3x” lite .223. For $628. If I’m only buying the rifle for the action, is the t3x worth $209 more? Besides the metal bolt shroud, what are the major differences in the action if any at all?

I’m planning on putting it in a krg Bravo chassis with a bartlein heavy Palma 1:7 twist 5r barrel.

I’ve got a quote to build it, and to true the action face, chamber the barrel, and to have it threaded and put together including the chassis it would cost $2000. Would this set up be a better shooter than the tikka t3x tac a1 for $1800?

I have seen the TAC A1 for $1500 online.

 

[Lowlight]

Honestly,

I think getting a standard T3x and upgrading the stock is a bit better than the Tac A1, I have both the T3x and Tac A1 and I removed the chassis as the mags were terrible and it's not worth using their mags.

Plenty of inexpensive aftermarket stocks to choose from, they also give you the option to use AICS mags which improve the system

For me I use Cadex,

 

[spife7980]

Goldbluff, some others have mentioned it but I think its worth summarizing in one spot.

The tikka actions are all the same over all length. Its just the bolt stop thats different. You can carve on a short action bolt stop making it a long action stop and allowing the bolt to slide back further. You cant really add it back to a long action stop though to make it stop shorter.

The 223 is a .384" bolt face.
6.5 creed and 270 are both .473" bolt faces. 243, 308, 22-250, 260, 7-08, 3006 all share the .473 bolt face and a 6.5 creed case head would fit in them all nicely. Google boolt face diameters and action lengths and there should be plenty of charts.

In most actions those for the 3006 and 270 are actually longer than their short action counter parts and so going from a long to a short isnt feasible as it can cause feeding issues. Its possible to run a short cartridge in the long, just not optimal.
The Tikka, again, is all the same overall length and it just needs the different bolt stop.

That said Europtic also has a 243 t3 display model in 243, that would be the easy route for only 10 bucks more. https://www.eurooptic.com/Tikka-T3-Lite-243-Win.aspx

 

[fb40dash5]

Personally, I'd build my own (and I did) unless the Tac A1 is pretty much exactly what you want. Only upside to the Tac besides the chassis is the 2-stage trigger, which also has a 3 position safety so you can open the bolt on safe. Their chassis and stock don't do much for me personally, nor do I care for the $$$$ mags, and you're stuck buying a canted mount to get elevation since the rail is pretty much not replaceable.

I started with a Lite because I got a hell of a deal on it, enough to cover most of the cost to rebarrel with exactly the barrel I want compared to buying a CTR. But I want to try a 24" 5R, neither of which are a thing with a .308 CTR.

 

[bab029]

If you can afford what you want the first time, do that.

If you can't but you can afford a CTR, do that. Gain skills, and show folks what a factory rifle can do.

If you aren't sure what you want in the first place, buy and shoot a CTR until you figure it out.

 

[BigTex]

I went through the same process last week. I dropped off a Tikka T3 Lite .270win with Jon Beanland Monday for a Proof Research Barrel in 6.5something. Better to get what you want if you can.

 

[JMcBurn]

I just went to the gun store and picked up a 22-250 T3 for $400, getting a donor action and just going out to shoot it isn't a bad plan either.

 

[NiemiPT]

Differences between T3 and T3x actions are that T3x has metallic bolt shroud (easy to replace), bigger ejection port and more bolt holes on top to attach rail so in my opinion go for T3!

 

[Acer76]

Anybody:

Please confirm if the actions are the same across T3x; specifically, would the $500 T3x Lite action only be identical to $1000 CTR to $1500 TAC A1?

 

[rookie7]

@Acer76 yes, the action is the same across all T3x models.

@Goldbluff - none of us are going to be right in our opinion for you b/c we are all different.

If you like the factory Tikka TAC A1 go with that. I did. I like it. It fits me well. I changed out the grip because I like a smooth texture. In my environment, the Tikka isn't any slower than a Howa or Remington I had.

@Lowlight reported problems with the mags in his classes etc. Before buying my TAC A1 a member on here who has a Tikka reported that the Tikka mags feed like butter - in his opinion better than the AICS style. Different people = different experiences.

I have 3 Tikka mags, and the follower does want to tilt when loading and sometimes shoot out the front of the mag when loading. I haven't had any problems with the Tikka mags while shooting that would deter me from running in a comp. That could change down the road though.

For the record - I have seen guys have feeding and functioning problems with AICS mags and custom actions at comps - me included.

The TAC A1 chassis is solid and well done. The available aftermarket chassis are well done. It's all about what you like, and only time behind the rifle will tell you if you made the right choice.

Regarding the perceived disadvantages of the Tikka TAC A1 route in regards to the mags and scope mounts:

1. Tikka 10 round CTR mags are $72 at EuroOptic. Same price roughly as quality AICS mags.

2. The TAC A1 does come with a 0 Moa rail. Solution: Badger Ordnance 20 MOA unmount, Nightforce 20 MOA unimount, or Burris Signature XTR rings with inserts. I went with the Badger.

In the long run you will forget about the money spent. When I bought my Tikka I could have bought an RPR and saved about $800 b/c Grabagun had the RPR on sale. I do not regret spending the extra money on the Tikka. It is a quality rifle that has become my favorite.

YMMV.

 

[Acer76]

@Acer76 yes, the action is the same across all T3x models.

@Goldbluff - none of us are going to be right in our opinion for you b/c we are all different.

If you like the factory Tikka TAC A1 go with that. I did. I like it. It fits me well. I changed out the grip because I like a smooth texture. In my environment, the Tikka isn't any slower than a Howa or Remington I had.

@Lowlight reported problems with the mags in his classes etc. Before buying my TAC A1 a member on here who has a Tikka reported that the Tikka mags feed like butter - in his opinion better than the AICS style. Different people = different experiences.

I have 3 Tikka mags, and the follower does want to tilt when loading and sometimes shoot out the front of the mag when loading. I haven't had any problems with the Tikka mags while shooting that would deter me from running in a comp. That could change down the road though.

For the record - I have seen guys have feeding and functioning problems with AICS mags and custom actions at comps - me included.

The TAC A1 chassis is solid and well done. The available aftermarket chassis are well done. It's all about what you like, and only time behind the rifle will tell you if you made the right choice.

Regarding the perceived disadvantages of the Tikka TAC A1 route in regards to the mags and scope mounts:

1. Tikka 10 round CTR mags are $72 at EuroOptic. Same price roughly as quality AICS mags.

2. The TAC A1 does come with a 0 Moa rail. Solution: Badger Ordnance 20 MOA unmount, Nightforce 20 MOA unimount, or Burris Signature XTR rings with inserts. I went with the Badger.

In the long run you will forget about the money spent. When I bought my Tikka I could have bought an RPR and saved about $800 b/c Grabagun had the RPR on sale. I do not regret spending the extra money on the Tikka. It is a quality rifle that has become my favorite.

YMMV.

Rookie,

Your response has benefited me. Thank you for taking the time and being thorough.

 

[Crews]

With the ability to buy a KRG Bravo for $400 and a really excellent prefit w/ barrel nut from PVA or SPR for ~$500, I'd have a hard time not building the exact rifle I wanted vs. spending basically the same amount of money on a Tac A1.

That is..... if you know what you want already. If you don't, it's probably not best to start out with a full blown custom.

 

[NiemiPT]

I would think it like this:

1. If you want to have a pistol grip chassis, use TRG/CTR mags and have two stage trigger go for Tac A1 or TSR-1 and upgrade it with Timney trigger
2. If you just want to have a pistol grip chassis and use TRG/CTR mags go for TSR-1
3. If you want to use TRG/CTR mags and don't need a pistol grip go for CTR. Of course you can update stock for example PSE composites or some other that uses TRG/CTR mags. Pick a 24" barrel if you want to shoot long range.
4. Otherwise take any cheap (Tac A1 or CTR are not usually cheapest) T3(x) rifle for action in colour you prefer with right bolt face, select which ever chassis/stock you like and get a nice barrel

Pricewise these are all quite equal I guess. I'm not so sure about US prices.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

The T3X actions are all the same minuets bolt diameter and bolt stop. The T3X also has a little larger port than the T3 as well as the metal bolt shroud.

Personally I’d get the T3X for the increased port size. Worth it IMO.

I’d do the semi custom route over the Tac A1 (not that it isn’t a great rifle), but I’d pass on trueing the action and put that money towards a better chassis. I’ve had numerous T3’s both factory and aftermarket barrels and none were trued and they were all hammers. IMO it’s a waste on those rifles and you will see far better performance from a better chassis.

I’d get a prefit from PVA with the cut rifled upgrade, an MPA chassis, an upgraded bolt handle, and be done. You should be under $2K all said and done.

 

[JohnDeereGuy1996]

I’d buy a donor t3x action and go that route. I’m with frank on the ctr mags. I’ve had feeding issues with them. I also found my ctr barrel to be extremely slow.
42.3 grn of h4350 only pushing 2676 FPS with a 140grn hybrid

 

[Jefe's Dope]

@Acer76 yes, the action is the same across all T3x models.

@Goldbluff - none of us are going to be right in our opinion for you b/c we are all different.

If you like the factory Tikka TAC A1 go with that. I did. I like it. It fits me well. I changed out the grip because I like a smooth texture. In my environment, the Tikka isn't any slower than a Howa or Remington I had.

@Lowlight reported problems with the mags in his classes etc. Before buying my TAC A1 a member on here who has a Tikka reported that the Tikka mags feed like butter - in his opinion better than the AICS style. Different people = different experiences.

I have 3 Tikka mags, and the follower does want to tilt when loading and sometimes shoot out the front of the mag when loading. I haven't had any problems with the Tikka mags while shooting that would deter me from running in a comp. That could change down the road though.

For the record - I have seen guys have feeding and functioning problems with AICS mags and custom actions at comps - me included.

The TAC A1 chassis is solid and well done. The available aftermarket chassis are well done. It's all about what you like, and only time behind the rifle will tell you if you made the right choice.

Regarding the perceived disadvantages of the Tikka TAC A1 route in regards to the mags and scope mounts:

1. Tikka 10 round CTR mags are $72 at EuroOptic. Same price roughly as quality AICS mags.

2. The TAC A1 does come with a 0 Moa rail. Solution: Badger Ordnance 20 MOA unmount, Nightforce 20 MOA unimount, or Burris Signature XTR rings with inserts. I went with the Badger.

In the long run you will forget about the money spent. When I bought my Tikka I could have bought an RPR and saved about $800 b/c Grabagun had the RPR on sale. I do not regret spending the extra money on the Tikka. It is a quality rifle that has become my favorite.

YMMV.

My experience is nearly identical. I have some nice 1911s, Dan Wesson, which the fit and finish is top of the line. I was extremely impressed with the fit and finish of the TAC1. I do have a spot on the chassis where it looks like the coating "flowed". It's small and doesn't bother me. But I thought I'd mention it. I also changed the grip to a more vertical type using a Magpul K2 grip. I used the Spuhr 20 MOA mount. Admit, you're gonna get the Spuhr too and don't need to worry about the rifle and it's lack of a 20 MOA mount . The action is so silky smooth I'm afraid I'll never accept another actions' performance. The Tikka action really is that smooth and it's well documented. IIRC, Tikka has extended the free mag program for quite awhile. Look enough and wait long enough and you'll find it for sub $1600. And if you don't like it, I bet you'll sell it quickly with very little loss of $.

 

[Acer76]

My experience is nearly identical. I have some nice 1911s, Dan Wesson, which the fit and finish is top of the line. I was extremely impressed with the fit and finish of the TAC1. I do have a spot on the chassis where it looks like the coating "flowed". It's small and doesn't bother me. But I thought I'd mention it. I also changed the grip to a more vertical type using a Magpul K2 grip. I used the Spuhr 20 MOA mount. Admit, you're gonna get the Spuhr too and don't need to worry about the rifle and it's lack of a 20 MOA mount . The action is so silky smooth I'm afraid I'll never accept another actions' performance. The Tikka action really is that smooth and it's well documented. IIRC, Tikka has extended the free mag program for quite awhile. Look enough and wait long enough and you'll find it for sub $1600. And if you don't like it, I bet you'll sell it quickly with very little loss of $.

Would you provide the Spuhr model number please? Looks like the 4602 will do the trick on the Tac A1 for Kahles K624i. Here’s a link for convenient clarification:

Spuhr Specs Link

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Would you provide the Spuhr model number please? Looks like the 4602 will do the trick on the Tac A1 for Kahles K624i. Here’s a link for convenient clarification:

Spuhr Specs Link

Yes, that's the one I purchased. Just be aware of overall height, you need the 38 mm to clear the rail w/ a 56mm objective, and the overall length to make sure your knobs will fit between the rings.

 

[NiemiPT]

Without full length picatinny rail you might be able to use SP-4601 with 56mm scope. I think that 9 mrad model would work nicely too.

 

[Acer76]

The T3X actions are all the same minuets bolt diameter and bolt stop. The T3X also has a little larger port than the T3 as well as the metal bolt shroud.

Personally I’d get the T3X for the increased port size. Worth it IMO.

I’d do the semi custom route over the Tac A1 (not that it isn’t a great rifle), but I’d pass on trueing the action and put that money towards a better chassis. I’ve had numerous T3’s both factory and aftermarket barrels and none were trued and they were all hammers. IMO it’s a waste on those rifles and you will see far better performance from a better chassis.

I’d get a prefit from PVA with the cut rifled upgrade, an MPA chassis, an upgraded bolt handle, and be done. You should be under $2K all said and done.

If I picked up the cheapest T3X Lite I could find and followed @redneckbmxer24 Suggestions, Is it really necessary and worth the $$ for a gunsmith to do this?

 

[redneckbmxer24]

If I picked up the cheapest T3X Lite I could find and followed @redneckbmxer24 Suggestions, Is it really necessary and worth the $$ for a gunsmith to do this?

If you're slightly mechanically inclined and already own a barrel vise (if not you should anyway for all the different uses), and a torque wrench, IMO yes.

The first barrel is pretty much a wash if you factor in the action wrench and go/no-go gauges. The cut rifled barrel with muzzle threading from PVA is $625 and their Tikka action wrench is another $70 and a set of Clymer gauges from Brownells is $60 for a total of $755. Add a few bucks for the right size crows foot for the barrel nut. If you send in your action to be barreled you're looking at approximately $350 for any of the top tier cut rifled blanks and then $425 to machine and chamber with muzzle threading for a total of $775. Each replacement barrel after that will save you $150 however.

 

[BravoSierra]

If your buying a rifle as a donor action, and going to spend $1800-2k total for a Bravo and a good barrel, then why not consider a PVA John Hancock. With that action you'll be able to change bolt faces out for various rounds, and not to mention having a proper custom barrel on it that you will be able to get prefits for in the future. Just the thought considering the only difference your describing is really going to be the action.

 

[CUBUFF89]

rookie7 summed up the TAC A1 very well. I picked one up for $1500 and think it's a very good value.

The chassis is adjustable enough to give me the fit I want. And with the folding stock I don't ever have to mess with the comb height once it's set. The folding latch is well done. I checked out the RPR and think the Tikka's folding latch is much better.

I have a couple of customs on Rem actions. The Tikka action is much smoother than any of them. And the 2 stage trigger is so easy to adjust; it's worth the price of admission. Elay Precision sells a replacement spring if you want to make it stupid light, mine is amazing.

Oh and it shoots lights out. Everyone who has tried it are totally impressed.

I liked it well enough that I thought it was worthwhile to put a 4.5-27 Razor on it.

 

[dannySH]

If your buying a rifle as a donor action, and going to spend $1800-2k total for a Bravo and a good barrel, then why not consider a PVA John Hancock. With that action you'll be able to change bolt faces out for various rounds, and not to mention having a proper custom barrel on it that you will be able to get prefits for in the future. Just the thought considering the only difference your describing is really going to be the action.

A good rifle cut barrel plus nut and wrench and a Bravo chassis is around $1000 (not $1800) I know a Hancock will be an awesome rifle but ordering today will take at least until December to have it. Buying a Tikka action today and ordering a prefit today and you will be shooting next month, by December I will be buying another barrel when the first is burnt and maybe ordering the Hancock when the hype goes down. Just my two cents.