Suppressors Dead Air Mask walking on gasser.

[nikonNUT]

Hey all, Have a little Tippmann M4-22 Micro Elite w/ a 7" barrel that I'm running a DearAir Mask on and it is walking when I run the bang button fast (which is too much fun!). No problems on my bolt guns so I'm thinking Tippmanns threads aren't quite a Class 3. I want a less than permanant fix and the wrist snap trick doesn't work so I'm thinking either 1) Teflon tape which is cheap, easy to reapply, and good to 500F or 2) A strap wrench and a liberal application of Gudentight! Pros? Cons? Other options? I'm all ears. Thank you in advance!

 

[hlee]

Hey all, Have a little Tippmann M4-22 Micro Elite w/ a 7" barrel that I'm running a DearAir Mask on and it is walking when I run the bang button fast (which is too much fun!). No problems on my bolt guns so I'm thinking Tippmanns threads aren't quite a Class 3. I want a less than permanant fix and the wrist snap trick doesn't work so I'm thinking either 1) Teflon tape which is cheap, easy to reapply, and good to 500F or 2) A strap wrench and a liberal application of Gudentight! Pros? Cons? Other options? I'm all ears. Thank you in advance!

Does the mask have wrench flats? I use a torque wrench on a suppressor that I’ve had issues with in the past.

 

[nikonNUT]

Does the mask have wrench flats? I use a torque belt wrench on a suppressor that I’ve had issues with in the past.

It does and that may be my best option. Right now the flats are not accessible as my dumb ass is running a longer handguard (9" where as the stock one is 5.5"). It looks cool AF but it only leaves about 1.5" of the can to grab. I have a strap wrench to try so I'm going to see if it works. I have no doubt about installation but I'm wondering if I'll end up unscrewing the tube from the DT mount or if the entire suppressor will play nice can come loose. Time to experiment! And thank you for the input!

 

[hlee]

It does and that may be my best option. Right now the flats are not accessible as my dumb ass is running a longer handguard (9" where as the stock one is 5.5"). It looks cool AF but it only leaves about 1.5" of the can to grab. I have a strap wrench to try so I'm going to see if it works. I have no doubt about installation but I'm wondering if I'll end up unscrewing the tube from the DT mount or if the entire suppressor will play nice can come loose. Time to experiment! And thank you for the input!

I had a rifle with a can tucked under the HG too. Yeah, it looked bad ass. As a buddy of mine called it “the uncircumcised look.” But, I couldn’t get the can repeatedly tight with what was exposed. And, to add insult to injury, it would leave the hub adapter on the rifle when I removed the can. All told, it was more of a pain than it was worth. And, I shaved almost a pound from the gun when I went with a shorter and slimmer handguard.

 

[hafejd30]

What about a “dab” of blue loctite

 

[nikonNUT]

What about a “tab” of blue loctite

Another possiblity but I do want to remove the can post range sessions. .22 cans get kinda swampy so it sounds like I'm damned if I do, damned if I don't.

 

[hafejd30]

Another possiblity but I do want to remove the can post range sessions. .22 cans get kinda swampy so it sounds like I'm damned if I do, damned if I don't.

Purple or blue loctite will loosen no problem. It will likely keep the can from walking. Don’t use red or green or anything past 242 blue stuff

 

[nikonNUT]

Purple or blue loctite will loosen no problem. It will likely keep the can from walking. Don’t use red or green or anything past 242 blue stuff

10-4! I use red at work all the time and I have seen the effects of over application. Not sure how that stuff can pull threads off but on the bigger hydraulic rams we heat them just to be sure. That of course opens a different can of worms but I digress. Did a quick google and saw this as well...

ST-3A® Thread Sealant

Griffin Armament is an industry leading manufacturer of suppressors, firearms, and parts for discriminating end users

www.griffinarmament.com

Thoughts?

 

[FuhQ]

It does and that may be my best option. Right now the flats are not accessible as my dumb ass is running a longer handguard (9" where as the stock one is 5.5"). It looks cool AF but it only leaves about 1.5" of the can to grab. I have a strap wrench to try so I'm going to see if it works. I have no doubt about installation but I'm wondering if I'll end up unscrewing the tube from the DT mount or if the entire suppressor will play nice can come loose. Time to experiment! And thank you for the input!

Buy another Mask HD and have 2, remove the handguard, torque the one on the Tippman, reinstall handguard, and swap the new Mask around on your other guns.

Hey, it’s a good excuse to buy a second one, if you need to justify it to the wife.

 

[nikonNUT]

Buy another Mask HD and have 2, remove the handguard, torque the one on the Tippman, reinstall handguard, and swap the new Mask around on your other guns.

Hey, it’s a good excuse to buy a second one, if you need to justify it to the wife.

Have 2 masks and zero wives so I may go that route!

 

[hlee]

Have 2 masks and zero wives so I may go that route!

Then the real answer is to buy enough suppressors that you never have to play “musical silencers” again.

 

[nikonNUT]

Then the real answer is to buy enough suppressors that you never have to play “musical silencers” again.

Sounds like a plan! I'll need 8 more masks to cover the .22s

 

[CountryShooter]

If the handguard is longer than the barrel, how you going to apply Teflon tape? It does work well.

 

[hlee]

If the handguard is longer than the barrel, how you going to apply Teflon tape? It does work well.

Remove handguard. Apply tape. Affix suppressor. Remount handguard. Tucked cans look cool, but can be a pain in the ass.

 

[Thereaper1313]

Get an o ring about the same size as your threads. Put the ring on. When you tighten the can, it'll smash the oring but the friction will keep it from backing off. Get a few o rings cause they don't last long. Also do NOT coat the o ring in oil or grease, that will defeat the purpose.

 

[hafejd30]

Get an o ring about the same size as your threads. Put the ring on. When you tighten the can, it'll smash the oring but the friction will keep it from backing off. Get a few o rings cause they don't last long. Also do NOT coat the o ring in oil or grease, that will defeat the purpose.

I thought it was frowned upon to use orings or crush washers with cans due to possible misalignment?

 

[Thereaper1313]

Crush washer yes, but o ring wont hurt. You're still bottoming out the can

 

[Thereaper1313]

SUPPRESSOR RETAINING HEAT RESISTANT O-RING KIT

Suarez International specializes in Custom Glock and CZ Builds, Premium Match Grade Glock Slides, Quality Parts , and Gunsmithing.

suarezinternational.com

 

[hafejd30]

SUPPRESSOR RETAINING HEAT RESISTANT O-RING KIT

Suarez International specializes in Custom Glock and CZ Builds, Premium Match Grade Glock Slides, Quality Parts , and Gunsmithing.

suarezinternational.com

Interesting

Didn’t even know this existed

 

[nikonNUT]

Get an o ring about the same size as your threads. Put the ring on. When you tighten the can, it'll smash the oring but the friction will keep it from backing off. Get a few o rings cause they don't last long. Also do NOT coat the o ring in oil or grease, that will defeat the purpose.

Genius! and fun fact... I am currently looking at 30,000 o-rings in my seal room. No high temp aka Viton or Silicone (400+F temp rating) but I can order them cheap aka $1.22 for a bag of (20) 568-013V. 0 series is a 1/16" cross section so .4375" I.D. x .5625" O.D. so should be just a tad tight on the thread relief assuming they got that part right. I'll just chuck 'em in my range bag. Problem solved, problem staying solved! Thank you, guys! If ya'll ever need a few just PM me!

 

[nikonNUT]

So it's been a minute but in case anyone has the same issue... I grabbed a tub of ST-3A from Griffin Armament. This stuff is legit (and should last the rest of my life)! Apply a thin coat, let it dry for an hour, and screw the suppressor on. Good to go! If you apply it too thick (I did trying to match coating apperance on NDs website) it comes off easily. ND Ind. suggests a soak in hot soapy water followed by a light brushing with a wire brush. Easier method is to soak a rag in hot water, run it around the threads to get the bulk off, and then a very light brushing with a stiff nylon brush to get the remainder.