I have. Not impressed by any of them. A stock CZ P-10, Walther PDP, or HK VP9 is better than just about any modded Glock trigger I've ever shot including several Timneys and Johnny Glocks.
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Sidearms & Scatterguns Dear Glock and racegun owners,
- Thread starter atomic41
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I have. Not impressed by any of them. A stock CZ P-10, Walther PDP, or HK VP9 is better than just about any modded Glock trigger I've ever shot including several Timneys and Johnny Glocks.
@atomic41 I know this is an old thread but I figure I'd give you an update from the competition world.
Limited Optics has been a thing in USPSA for about 3 months or so. That's a new division for optic pistols where you can do absolutely anything you want to the gun except add a compensator/muzzle brake.
A lot of the modded Glocks on this thread would fit right in. Except that no one is choosing glocks to run in Limited Optics. The only ones that do are the occasional tactical Timmy that comes to try uspsa.
I would also point out that absolutely no one in USPSA open division (where comped pistols go) chooses a Glock.
Limited Optics has been a thing in USPSA for about 3 months or so. That's a new division for optic pistols where you can do absolutely anything you want to the gun except add a compensator/muzzle brake.
A lot of the modded Glocks on this thread would fit right in. Except that no one is choosing glocks to run in Limited Optics. The only ones that do are the occasional tactical Timmy that comes to try uspsa.
I would also point out that absolutely no one in USPSA open division (where comped pistols go) chooses a Glock.
Thanks. I've decided not to use a Glock as a base. I'm not in a hurry and have plenty other distractions to keep me busy LOL. I'll come back to this at some point and put something together.
The top production pistol used in USPSA is the Shadow 2 and that is for a reason, they work extremely well. If you want a top notch gun get a CZ Custom Accu Shadow 2/Shadow 2 Accu or a Cajun Gun Works Shadow 2 that they hot rodded.
PSA has a sale on Shadow 2's, buy the CGW parts kit and go that route if you want to save some money for ammo.
PSA has a sale on Shadow 2's, buy the CGW parts kit and go that route if you want to save some money for ammo.
I picked up a Shadow 2 today for a steal. Fleet Farm has a sale going right now. Clearance price was $999 plus they were running an extra 10% off. I got it for $899.97. At that price I just couldn't pass it up.
I will say I picked up a overwatch precision drop in tac trigger for my gen 5 19. I haven’t had the chance to shoot it, and only done a couple dry fires. Im not really impressed. I do like the shorter reset. Hopefully when I get some time I can get a bunch of rounds through it and it smooths out a bit more.
That trigger can work well as part of an overall package, but doesn't do much by itself. Most of your gains will be found in changing the connector and springs.
What is the parts list for your carry gun? That is what I am looking for, slightly shorter reset and a little lighter, but still needs to be 100% reliable and eat anything I load it with.
I had the expensive Johnny Glock trigger on my 19X and it's still meh at the end of the day.
Also never been a fan of the 3.5 connectors and light springs, it just make the trigger light and mushy and I prefer a crisper reset and more defined wall. No matter what you do to them, it'll never be as good as even a stock P320 trigger and not anywhere close to the same league as a 1911/2011 SAO or CZ.
Even my 1911 used to be at 2 lbs and I brought it back to 3.50 and I think it's much better now.
I was never particularly impressed with the Johnny Glock triggers. Like you said, meh. Not sure why people talk about them as some sort of pinnacle of Glock triggers. They aren't, and neither are pretty much any other Glock trigger with the possible exception of the full Zev package that's intended for competition only. But I definitely wouldn't carry that one.
LOL. That part's just flat out wrong though, and only proves that you've never tried a really good Glock trigger that's been tuned well, or at the very least are a Glock hater or 320 fanboy. I've had a couple of 320's with the full Gray Guns package (tuned by Gray, not drop ins) and would still choose one of my tuned Glock triggers. I've done some really nice 1911 triggers, and no, the Glock stuff doesn't end up like that, nobody ever said they do, but they are more comparable to what can be done in a CZ. I've got a pair of CZs here now with the full Cajun package, both right around 2.5 lb SA, with a bit shorter break but a WAY longer reset than my Glocks. But you'll never get there by buying someone's drop in kit, especially if you're just dropping in a trigger by itself. Gotta know what you're after and how to get it; hand fitting is involved same as any other gun.
Well, I'll give you the parts list, but you won't get there by just dropping in parts. Especially not by just buying one set of parts and expecting it to all fit and function perfect. Every excellent Glock trigger I own is the result of testing and comparing multiple parts, and then hand fitting once I'm satisfied. And I really don't recommend diving too deep into the hand fitting unless you're intimately familiar with the Glock trigger system and experienced with trigger work; it's easy to go too far or the wrong way and end up with all sorts of reliability issues.
With that said, in my gen 4 carry gun are the following:
- Suarez trigger (accomplishes nothing, except for the flat trigger face)
- Gen 3 G17 trigger bar (smoother feel than the gen 4 with the bump)
- NP3 coated striker and "-" connector from Suarez
- Ghost or Zev extra power trigger spring
- Slightly tuned striker spring
- blue Maritime spring cups
- reduced power plunger spring
In the gen 4 G17 with a brake I showed earlier in the thread:
- Overwatch trigger (again, does nothing except the flat face)
- Gen 3 G17 trigger bar (smoother feel than the gen 4 with the bump)
- NP3 coated Suarez striker
- Zev 3.5 lb connector
- Ghost or Zev extra power trigger spring
- Zev or Ghost 5 lb striker spring
- blue Maritime spring cups
- reduced power plunger spring
Beyond the parts list, things that are adjusted/tuned in those and all of my non-stock Glocks are:
- Connector (adjust for reliability and reset feel)
- engagement face of the trigger bar cruciform (stoned so engagement is on a small flat rather than a point - smoother, lighter trigger break that's more durable over time. Stock trigger bar will wear into the striker leg eventually, causing hard trigger pull.)
- engagement face of the striker leg, especially if it's been used very much (stone/polish perfectly flat and smooth, stone deep enough to remove machining marks and wear from stock cruciform)
- Striker spring (reduced power is OK for competition, Fed primers only, etc. Stock spring can be very slightly weakened and still ignite magnum primers for carry guns.)
- Adjust/tune cruciform for desired amount of engagement with striker leg. Pay attention to overtravel.
- Stone/polish/deburr all sharp edges; you have to pay attention to what surfaces should retain a sharp edge and which are detrimental.
- Check and verify operation of striker safety plunger.
- Peen slide rails at rear frame rail lugs to tighten fit, only for the best triggers and very carefully! (This reduces up/down play of the slide, so you can set the trigger for less engagement and crisper break in a competition gun. Very easy to crack the rails and ruin a slide though.)
Zev sells spring and connector kits (around $30-ish last I checked from Midway, etc) that are a good start for some of this stuff. Ghost is a good source for Glock springs and internals too. NP3 coated strikers and connectors do smooth out the trigger feel, but can be hard to find.
Alternatively, for a competition only gun I've seen very decent results from dropping in the full Zev competition package (around $300 or so IIRC) and setting it up to work with Federal primers only - it can result in a very light pull that will keep working for thousands of rounds, but is an expensive way to go and not something I'd want to put in a carry gun. On the flip side there's the Timney Glock trigger - I like their rifle triggers but their Glock trigger is flat garbage; it's nowhere close to a good trigger tuned as I described above, but also isn't safe for carry use (it converts a Glock to a crappy single action mechanism).
Be aware that Glocks do vary a lot inside, so a set of parts that gives a great trigger in one gun might be completely unreliable in another. They aren't as rough inside as a CZ or Tanfo, but are designed to work with some pretty large manufacturing tolerances in stock form, so there are dimensional differences from one sample to the next that come into play when you start tuning the trigger. Sometimes I've had to set the entire group of trigger parts aside in a bin and start over with different parts to get the result I want - but compared to $300+ for a full CZ Cajun package for example, it's usually still less fitting and polishing for something that has the potential to be in the same ballpark. YMWV.
One final comment - that 25 cent trigger job BS that some people promote has no place on any of my pistols, and can ruin a trigger if taken too far. There are better ways to do this.
Hope that helps. Tread carefully.
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Get a ported M&P 2.0 5”. The pro triggers are good out of the box but Apex makes them even better. I don’t see how you could get a better fun gun for the price.
I haven’t made the step to a 2011 yet due to the above, going to try a rmr on my 2.0 now.
I haven’t made the step to a 2011 yet due to the above, going to try a rmr on my 2.0 now.
People who win matches (at least practical pistol matches) hardly do any of that bullshit to triggers.
All that extreme dicking around with triggers and loads is what forever C class dudes do in their off time. What they should be doing is improving their mental management, movement skills, physical fitness, and gun handling.
All that extreme dicking around with triggers and loads is what forever C class dudes do in their off time. What they should be doing is improving their mental management, movement skills, physical fitness, and gun handling.
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Noveske just released a barrel that looks interesting. They also have a slide that is already tapped for any optic you could want.
Stupid and arrogant people with short attention spans make excuses about why their gun shouldn’t be as good as it could be.
The time I spend working on guns and the time I spend shooting do not intersect and have no relation to each other. Typical of your foolish bs to claim that knowing how to tune triggers means someone can’t shoot. You could use a bit of mental management yourself.
Whatever, just another Tuesday on the ‘hide.
I didn't say anything about time spent shooting vs time wasted on bullshit gun mods. Time wasted working on guns is time better spent working on skills that need zero range time.
I don't expect some D class loser (you) to understand.
And no, nobody who matters shoots a Glock in open division lolololol
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I don’t see the additional 10% on their site…was that a one day deal?
edit: found the flyer… “in store only”
nice score.
Of course you don't understand. You rarely do, wandering through with your myopic point of view and rarely understanding the things you comment on.
Breaking news from ButtPirate: "Gunsmiths are a waste of time and bad shooters."
Moron.
And nowhere did I say anything about anyone "who matters" currently using a Glock in open division. (Again with the myopic point of view and complete failure to understand what was said.) I said it's not that hard to make a Glock function reliably as an open gun or anything else, if you have a clue how to tune it. You obviously don't, thanks for clarifying that for us.
You ain't very bright, are ya?
Thank you. I will probably go with the 6lb trigger spring and 3.5lb connector from Ghostinc.com. Cheap enough and I'll clean up the leg on the striker. The Maritime spring cups look interesting, maybe I'll get bthem too. More reliability, reduce friction and help get debris out of the striker channel. Then I'll just shoot the hell out of it.
I know it's not a g21 or 41 or any 45acp variant (I'm not partial to that cartridge), but a 9mil g17 is just fine as a 1911/2011 can go south fast if you mag isn't tuned! Biggest issues even with $4k guns. Get a KKM, Bar-Sto or Apex barrel as it WILL be the best upgrade next to the trigger! STAY AWAY from Timney's in Glocks, in S&W's it's a great trigger! Forget the minus disconnector. I have some Storm Lake barrels, but they're so-so.
Just my own ignorant opinion, but you'll never get a striker fire type pistol to perform at the same level as a dedicated S?A race gun. But if you have the means and want a project, then have fun!
The problem with the "Glock race gun" concept is:
It costs WAY more $$$ trying to turn one's $500 Glock into something half-decent with the myriad Gucci-Glock-cottage-industy options out there than it does to just buy something cooler and go racing. Be careful not to get sucked into that blackhole.
(This comes from a dude who wears a G17 everyday, kind of like a carpenter wears a hammer, dig them, but it's a tool.)
It costs WAY more $$$ trying to turn one's $500 Glock into something half-decent with the myriad Gucci-Glock-cottage-industy options out there than it does to just buy something cooler and go racing. Be careful not to get sucked into that blackhole.
(This comes from a dude who wears a G17 everyday, kind of like a carpenter wears a hammer, dig them, but it's a tool.)
I love my gen 5 Glock 34. Probably my favorite 9mm. Yes, I have some high dollar 1911s. Yes I have some Cajun CZs. Yes I've spent time with the P320.
Nothing wrong with some minor mods, but don't go overboard. Keep it simple. The gen 5s are really well sorted out at this point.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Glock performance trigger. It's fantastic. It's affordable and it's better than any modified stock type trigger.
I'd keep the Glock mostly stock. Add the Glock performance trigger. Add some Dawson sights. Maybe a red dot, maybe grip tape and magwell, but that's about it.
Pistol shooting isn't about the gun, it's about the shooter. My shot timer says my splits aren't much different assuming similar size and caliber pistols. Yes it's fun to finger fuck guns and obsess over the minor differences, but most of that goes out the window when the timer goes off.
Nothing wrong with some minor mods, but don't go overboard. Keep it simple. The gen 5s are really well sorted out at this point.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Glock performance trigger. It's fantastic. It's affordable and it's better than any modified stock type trigger.
I'd keep the Glock mostly stock. Add the Glock performance trigger. Add some Dawson sights. Maybe a red dot, maybe grip tape and magwell, but that's about it.
Pistol shooting isn't about the gun, it's about the shooter. My shot timer says my splits aren't much different assuming similar size and caliber pistols. Yes it's fun to finger fuck guns and obsess over the minor differences, but most of that goes out the window when the timer goes off.
That depends on the definition of "perform"
If that means things like raw accuracy and trigger feel, maybe; maybe not.
If you're talking about match performance, the answer is yes.
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Truth
For me 10 yard splits are
- Shadow 2: .18 - .20
- P-10F: .22 - .24
Picked this up dirt cheap in the for sale section.
No resale value. No sense modifying a clock with $$$ parts just buy one already done up.
Shadow would be my next purchase but don’t have time to shoot now
Oh
And deep down @308pirate loves him some glock perfection. He knows their the best , that’s why he’s so passionate in his arguments
No resale value. No sense modifying a clock with $$$ parts just buy one already done up.
Shadow would be my next purchase but don’t have time to shoot now
Oh
And deep down @308pirate loves him some glock perfection. He knows their the best , that’s why he’s so passionate in his arguments
Agreed. Jerry Miculek proves this over and over with is revolver! So yes, I'm talking pure mechanical performance in the context of how much money should the OP put into his Glock.
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