Debut Post: My 6.5LRP ground up build and How-To

[shagey71]

So this is my first truly thought out long range system. Here are the components-

Lock and Barrel:
Blueprinted Rem 700 SA
Bartlein #9 26" stainless barrel chambered in 6.5 LRP
Threaded muzzle break
Harris BiPod
Badger Ord 20MOA full base

Optics:
Zeiss 6.5-20x50mm optic
UTG heavy duty rings (I'll explain)
Butler Creek Lens caps
Zeiss sunshade
Vortex scope level

Stock:
Donor HS Precision hunting stock
36" x 1/2" aluminum round stock
3x brass fittings 1/2" I.D.
1x 5/16" stainless cap screw
1x 5/16" T Nut
Lots of Resin, glass, and epoxy
And a whole lotta texas.



Step 1: Clearancing.
The #9 barrel was WAY too big for the barrel channel in the stock, so that was ground out with a cutting wheel on a dremel being pulled slowly length wise, then lots of hand finish sanding with a 1" dowel rod wrapped in 120 grit.

The recoil lug is massive, that wouldn't fit in the stock either.... to the Mill!


Step 2: non-bedding related stock modifications

I wanted an adjustable comb/cheek riser because so does everyone else and I don't have original thoughts.
But then I had an original thought.
Instead of taking a bandsaw to the stock and cutting out the comb area to put on adjusting pillars, I decided to make my own cheek rest that was the shape of texas.
As you can see, the shape of the state could not be more perfect. The bolt can come out of the back of the action all the way and is nested right in the natural notch of the NW region of the state. Perfect.
Furthermore, Texas is plenty big to rest your face on.

I purchased some medium density upholstery foam, and transferred my stencil onto that.
Then it got cut out.


I masked off the buttstock and applied a liberal amount of remoil as my release.

On some tin foil, I saturated the foam with resin, then transferred it into position on the buttstock.
to press the uncooperative foam down fully, I wrapped the buttstock in oiled wax paper and taped into place.



After 2 hours, it was christmas morning. I unwrapped Texas and popped it free of the stock to apply more release just in case.
Then I mixed up a cup of 1/2 bondo and 1/2 resin to make it not thick, not thin, but just Goldylocks. This porridge was applied liberally by means of a 97 cent chip brush. I thinned the bondo with resin to fill the air cavities in the hardened sponge. depending on if you have any mushy spots on the foam, you may need another coat of just resin before this step.

 

[shagey71]

wait...

sand....





Then a coat of just bondo was applied. I used the supplied sticky wire screen in the bondo kit on the pan handle and on the inside along the top of the comb where I thought it may need more support.
I tinker with the putty until you can see it turning hard and it gets grainy. Stop immediately. Don't be afraid of a mess. If it looks like a 3 year old frosted a cake, thats okay, just sand it with 60grit while its still drying. (avoid if possible, but its an okay emergency solution)

drying...



Lots more sanding.

A brushed on coat of resin will give a nice hard top layer. Sand that thoroughly. I ran out of brushes so I applied this layer with a blue shop towel. It worked fine, but my sanding time was tripled as a result. It will be hard to tell just how good the finish is until it is sprayed down with a solid color.

Once you think it is ready, hit it with a high build primer. This will fill in the micro scratches and some air pockets.
Sand that with 220 to flatten it out. Using a sanding block will help keep it flat and smooth.
After fill-priming I primed it again with a base primer to even out the color one more time.

After a quick rub down with up to 400, I was happy with the texture and confident the finished top coat would remain glassy smooth. If you want texture, in the past I have applied a thick coat of resin, then sprayed a shop rag with a release, and patted down the wet resin. this will give it the texture of a towel. If you do this make sure you let the resin cure 100% then wash the surface as nothing will stick after applying that oil.

On with the white base in just little while....

 

[shagey71]

This is where We are so far with it.
The stock has base applied from the bottom, and was let dry. I lightly sanded the stock with 320, and will apply base from the top this time.
The cheek piece is in primer and curing, it will get an even fine sanding in an hour.
If I didn't want the adjustability of the cheek piece, I could epoxy it right to the stock and fill the seems and feather out the edges. (or have resined the foam right to it to begin with). But I still want to put it on pillars to be able to adjust it.