Well, I will take it when my turn comes up. Do the PR primer tubes hold 100? I am still using Dillon tubes I drilled for a pin, and they hold mid 90s because of the shortened length. A little bit of an annoyance.We're out of stock on the primafill presently!
I hope to have more within a couple weeks... but holiday shipping... grrrr. Who knows. lol
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In hindsight this is not a fair statement. I'd like to clarify.
Everyone knows how hard it is to get components. Many brass manufacturers have focused on the bulk of the rifle shooting market. The vast majority of shooters are simply not asking for any more than what most brass manufacturers can provide. I'm especially thankful of our American companies and the investments they have made to providing us with components and ammunition. The huge majority of rifle shooters will be served quite well by their products. We need them to keep pumping out huge quantities of "passable" brass. Good enough is good enough for most shooters.
Having said that, there are two companies that I'd like to name specifically that have been able to deliver much more in their brass. They are targeting a much smaller segment of the precision rifle community. Lapua, and Alpha Munitions. The latter is decidedly American, and the brass I've recently tested from them is simply without equal. What an awesome thing to say. The best brass in the world, is now coming from AMERICA! We just need them to be able to make MORE of it, in MORE cartridges!
Alpha is trying to serve guys like me that are pushing for the highest possible performance. They aren't interested in making "good enough" brass. They want to make the best in the world, and they've succeeded in my opinion.It wasn't always this way. Alpha had some growing pains. Every company does. Their recent batch of 22 Creedmoor OCD cases is simply the most impressive brass I've ever worked with in my career as a shooter. Here's a video of me shooting that VIRGIN brass at 600yds... fresh out of the box... with no load development! I just seated an 75gr ELDM 10 thousandths off the lands in front of 41.5gr of H4350 and went to work.
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Wish I shot good enough that this tool would help me…
Orkan, that is a very cool tool you’ve got there. Keep up the good work in testing and development.
Orkan, that is a very cool tool you’ve got there. Keep up the good work in testing and development.
Greg, didn’t realize how many informative videos you have out there on your channel. I love learning new things and hearing different point of views. I really appreciate the research backed opinions. Looks like I have some more watching to do. I thought I had a descent process but feel like it can get better now as I’ve kinda maxed out with consistency. I think an arbor press for seating, cps primer tool and a v4 will be added as $ allows. I’m thankful for people who can and do research like this as for a lot like myself it’s not doable for many reasons. Do you have a honest recommendation on one you would get first? I seat on a t7 and powder drop on a chargemaster lite and verify on another scale and seat primers on the bench rcbs tool.
Innovation leads to advancement. I have never used the CPS priming tool - but would love to add it to my kit. As I bring my kids into the competitive world - I find that my biggest limiting factor is Time…. I can see how this tool would help produce a better quality of ammo, faster…. Well worth the investment.
The quality of components and processes have lead to performance that amazes me. After shooting X-course highpower and Palma for years with my Dad where “match ammo“ was <30SD - to today where low single digital SD’s are standard. Amazing.
The quality of components and processes have lead to performance that amazes me. After shooting X-course highpower and Palma for years with my Dad where “match ammo“ was <30SD - to today where low single digital SD’s are standard. Amazing.
This is exactly right. The number one issue in shooting better is not primer seating depth, but the ability to shoot more often and to practice your fundamentals. The CPS is great for this. It may well be the key to shaving that last smidge off of the SD, or it may not be, but it definitely will allow you to be a better shooter because you will have more time.
I'd like to ask about Erik's comment on graphite infused bronze mandrels. I've been using carbide mandrels with graphite applied directly in the neck with a bore mop. I still get brass build up on some mandrels even with the lube. After hearing Erik's comment I bought some of the bronze he mentioned and made a .242" mandrel. I sized a couple virgin Alpha OCD Dasher cases and it didn't size the same as the carbide so I had to modify the dimension a bit to get it to size the same. ID's are verified with pin gauges.
In any case, I'm curious how many other folks paid attention to that little tidbit from Erik and whether they've tried it.
In any case, I'm curious how many other folks paid attention to that little tidbit from Erik and whether they've tried it.
So many variables, and they all need to be accounted for if you're expecting best results. Personally, I'd buy the CPS first... just because its basically the least expensive and will make priming a breeze, rather than a loathsome affair. Next I'd get the autotrickler (if you can't afford a prometheus.) After that, investing in an annealer and press from AMP would be good. Don't forget the Thumlers UV-18 and rice!
Anyway, I might make a video of my entire process some day. So much to do.
Awesome. Thanks for that. $ isn’t endless for me so need to prioritize things and build my better setup. Prometheus is outa my league… I’m running a bench source now so probably stick with it for awhile. But forgot about there press. But again maybe outa my budget at this point. Sounds like your cps and auto trickler will be 1 and 2. I’ve considered an k&m arbor press as it is mobile and could take it with me easily. ThanksSo many variables, and they all need to be accounted for if you're expecting best results. Personally, I'd buy the CPS first... just because its basically the least expensive and will make priming a breeze, rather than a loathsome affair. Next I'd get the autotrickler (if you can't afford a prometheus.) After that, investing in an annealer and press from AMP would be good. Don't forget the Thumlers UV-18 and rice!
Anyway, I might make a video of my entire process some day. So much to do.
When I first got mine your video on setup was very helpful.
I also watched about the rice tumbling.
Why does it get better results than small walnut media and car wax & mineral spirits?
The pockets get uniformed first then tumbled and come out clean.
After your vidio I have to go back and remeasure pockets and primers. I belive my primers are slightly over crushed.
Why does it get better results than small walnut media and car wax & mineral spirits?
The pockets get uniformed first then tumbled and come out clean.
After your vidio I have to go back and remeasure pockets and primers. I belive my primers are slightly over crushed.
Test it, then tell me why you think it is. Then we can compare theories.
Test it, then tell me why you think it is. Then we can compare theories.
Is there a specific rice you use or recommend? Or any old rice will do?
Play With Your Food: Clean Brass With Rice :: Primal Rights, Inc
Cleaning your brass is a necessity. Foreign material in or on our cases can cause all kinds of problems. Damage to expensive reloading dies, damage to rifles, and various other issues can arise if proper care is not taken.
www.primalrights.com
At what point in load development would you test primer type and seating depth? Still trying to wrap my head around this... maybe I should finish the interview haha!
Ok , I will go get some medium grain rice and see how it does.Test it, then tell me why you think it is. Then we can compare theories.
Can I still use car wax and mineral spirits?
They have that lubricity feel to them and a protective coat that stops tarnish.
I add a used drier sheet to every load that catches a lot of the grime and may help extend the life of the rice as well.
Rice test, I will do anything to make better ammo. I have time, the onlything I have a lot of. Lol
I size with imperial sizing wax, so that leaves a desirable finish that doesn't seem to tarnish. However, my focus is accuracy and precision... so how it looks isn't as important to me. I find the better it looks, the worse it shoots.
I will often add a dryer sheet to virgin rice, as it might have some residue on it until it gets a chance to get contaminated a bit by the first batch of brass.
I’m 69, also getting arthritis in my hands, have an RBCS uni priming tool, and as others have mentioned, after I finish a 100 cases my hand is way shot.
This high end tool has been on my radar for quite some time but has not made it to the top of the priority list for this retired fixed income old fart. E.g., an AMP is on the list of things to save for.
But this whole batch of negativity about this device, it’s cost, and it’s designer is very distasteful and reflects badly on the people who take a perverse pride in their contempt and crow about how THEY aren’t stupid enough to spend that kind of money.
Reminds me of stuff I commonly saw during decades of shooting skeet.
“Only an idiot would pay $10k for a Kreigoff, I’m proud that I’m smart enough to have bought a Mossberg”
Or
“Only a moron would spend that kind of money on a Spolar reloader when my MEC Jr will do the same job just as well”
To those people my response was “shoot your Mossberg and reload on your Jr….if you don’t want to know, fuhgeddaboutit. “
This high end tool has been on my radar for quite some time but has not made it to the top of the priority list for this retired fixed income old fart.
E.g., an AMP is on the list of things to save for.But this whole batch of negativity about this device, it’s cost, and it’s designer is very distasteful and reflects badly on the people who take a perverse pride in their contempt and crow about how THEY aren’t stupid enough to spend that kind of money.
Reminds me of stuff I commonly saw during decades of shooting skeet.
“Only an idiot would pay $10k for a Kreigoff, I’m proud that I’m smart enough to have bought a Mossberg”
Or
“Only a moron would spend that kind of money on a Spolar reloader when my MEC Jr will do the same job just as well”
To those people my response was “shoot your Mossberg and reload on your Jr….if you don’t want to know, fuhgeddaboutit. “
I bought one for this reason. After a 100 rounds my hands would cramp up. I am glad I purchased one. No more issues and I really like itI’m 69, also getting arthritis in my hands, have an RBCS uni priming tool, and as others have mentioned, after I finish a 100 cases my hand is way shot.
This high end tool has been on my radar for quite some time but has not made it to the top of the priority list for this retired fixed income old fart.
But this whole batch of negativity about this device, it’s cost, and it’s designer is very distasteful and reflects badly on the people who take a perverse pride in their contempt and crow about how THEY aren’t stupid enough to spend that kind of money.
Reminds me of stuff I commonly saw during decades of shooting skeet.
“Only an idiot would pay $10k for a Kreigoff, I’m proud that I’m smart enough to have bought a Mossberg”
Or
“Only a moron would spend that kind of money on a Spolar reloader when my MEC Jr will do the same job just as well”
To those people my response was “shoot your Mossberg and reload on your Jr….if you don’t want to know, fuhgeddaboutit. “
Please make that video. I’ve been hitting up your library as I have time to read, but it’s a lot of info for a newbie like me to process at once. I’d also be interested in an outline that says at this step X is the best, but if you can’t do that yet Y would be ok to start with even though it’s limited by this or that.So many variables, and they all need to be accounted for if you're expecting best results. Personally, I'd buy the CPS first... just because its basically the least expensive and will make priming a breeze, rather than a loathsome affair. Next I'd get the autotrickler (if you can't afford a prometheus.) After that, investing in an annealer and press from AMP would be good. Don't forget the Thumlers UV-18 and rice!
Anyway, I might make a video of my entire process some day. So much to do.
Also, last quick question, do you need to do rice from the get go or can previously SS tumbled brass be salvaged some way?
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Right - only the assholes feel it necessary to shit on someone’s products or pricing.
You will encounter these people somewhat regularly If/when you upgrade your acct and start listing stuff for sale in the PX.
I size with imperial sizing wax, so that leaves a desirable finish that doesn't seem to tarnish. However, my focus is accuracy and precision... so how it looks isn't as important to me. I find the better it looks, the worse it shoots.
I will often add a dryer sheet to virgin rice, as it might have some residue on it until it gets a chance to get contaminated a bit by the first batch of brass.
I switched to imperial sizing wax after speaking with you a while ago. How often do you clean your sizing dies if at all?
For anyone not keeping track, Greg has given out $1800 in priming tools already, and I’m only on page two.
Great video, great information. Thank you for posting that! My son and i got into reloading a few years ago when a guy at the gun store we were talking with mentioned that he does a lot of reloading. Anyway, he taught us the basics and we went from there. He has the CPS and i was able to use it. WOW, my right hand was very thankful and the consistency is amazing. My son says our priorities are screwed up and we should get one NOW, we can always eat later! It's been on my list of things I need for a while now, stupid Covid!!
Shoot it again... and then don't SS tumble it.
As infrequently as my guilt will allow me to.
Your son is wise beyond his years.
Look at the views on my youtube videos. Nobody watches what I already have. lol
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Thanks.Shoot it again... and then don't SS tumble it.
Look at the views on my youtube videos. Nobody watches what I already have. lol
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Views are quality over quantity.
I just read through your (thorough!) load dev article. Yeah, there was a lot I messed up last time I ran an OCW. I did it over a chrono (why not?) and ended up chasing a velocity node. Now I need to force myself back into it and start keeping a better data log, too.
Thanks for writing/filming all this knowledge.
I hope this link is correct, it's just another person talking about what Greg and Erik were referring too, primer seating depth and crush testing.. It randomly popped up in my YouTube feed so I thought I'd share it with everyone. Take from it what you like...
I must modify what I said here now having a better tool for measuring primer pocket depth. I was never consistent using the calipers so I used a average of a multitude of readings on multiple pieces of brass to get my pocket depth.
Today I received the Accuracy One Precision Primer Gauge and it measures consistently every time. It also measured .004" less than the average I got with the calipers on some Lapua SRP 6.5 Creedmoor. Based on this the seated primer depths in my previous post are accurate but their relationship to crush is not.
So, what I learned today is that I have zero confidence in primer pocket measurements with calipers. I have full confidence in those from the Accuracy One gauge. I have one of Orkan's primer depth tools on order, too, and I'm sure it'll be the same.
I don't have a CPS because I don't shoot well enough to need it yet, but will be buying the new version of the DAA primer filler (I have the old one with straight lines; and its crap) and some primer tubes from you in the hopes that the combo will do the trick.
Thanks for putting out the content that you do as it is consistently great.
P.S. Inline Fabrication makes a quick change plate for the CPS which will make mounting it a snap for anyone with a quick-change mount
Thanks for putting out the content that you do as it is consistently great.
P.S. Inline Fabrication makes a quick change plate for the CPS which will make mounting it a snap for anyone with a quick-change mount
Respectfully, just our indicator costs us more than accuracy one's entire kit. I'd like to think the PrimeWhere will be the best device available to take these measurements.
The CPS is next on my list. I had a primer blow up on my press last year. Bump that shit.
I cannot wait until the PrimeWhere lands... what a perfect companion to the CPS
This other channel is devoted to all his interviews going forward! Make sure you get subscribed and turn on notifications.
The most recent one is with yours truly! It was a great time and I hope everyone can pick up some useful tidbits of information.
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Phenomenal video and thanks so much for constantly pushing out information. I’ve been wanting one and kinda on the edge and this pushed me over. My son and daughter who both reload and shoot long range with me too are both excited about it because priming is the one task at the bench they both hate. When I told them I was going to order they already started fighting over who gets it when I kick the bucket lol. I’m only 40 so if I do soon it’ll probably be because the little one off-ed me lol!
Graphite infused bronze mandrels are probably the most OCD idea I've ever heard. If somebody decided to make some in .263 and .307, I am definitely a buyer. Sadly, my machining skills end at drilling and tapping a hole.
sometimes my supply chain purchasing is a little backwards; I was placing an online order today and decided to add the #2, #4 and #12 Lee auto-prime shell holders in anticipation of one day buying a CPS. My Hornady LNL AP press always seems to fail to seat a primer right when I get into a steady rhythym. I like nice things and I think Greg's entrepreneurial spirit should be rewarded.
Perhaps I'll pick up a CPS face-to-face if I get East River to visit Family during Christmas.
Perhaps I'll pick up a CPS face-to-face if I get East River to visit Family during Christmas.
This tool has allowed me to measure primer pocket depth and primer seating depth to stay consistent within .0005. Using the 21st Century bench rest priming tool has been giving me pretty good results because it allows the seating depth to be adjusted and the stop is very positive, however I would love to order the CPS. The one mystery I have not solved is getting each primer pocket to be exactly the same depth, which obviously affects the seating depth of the primer no matter where the stop is adjusted.
What we want is the depth of the primer below the case head exactly the same every time (or within .0005) and the anvils on the primer crushed against the bottom of the pocket exactly the same every time (or within .0005) I believe this consistency in ignition will provide an increase in accuracy and extreme spread.
Lapua cases seem to be close in their primer pocket depth measurements but I have seen an extreme spread of .002 and it's very annoying and time consuming to take a pocket uniformer and get them all the same.
I am currently using the 21st Century tool. It does a great job but my hands are starting to dislike things like that as I age. Accurately measuring pocket depths has been elusive.
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