Dies for 308

cfsindorf

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Minuteman
Apr 30, 2006
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Dallas, TX
With all the different dies and die sets out there which one would you pick as the one to get? If its different parts from different makers I am fine wit that too, I did it for my pistol loading.

I buy hunting ammo this is strictly target so accuracy and repeatability is what I am after.

Thanks

Craig
 
I have Lee dies for my 308 and 223. Many will poo-poo that choice, but honestly, at my skill level, they work fine for me.

The rifle is much better than I am and the dies will generate good quality ammunition that is sub MOA capable when I have a good day.
 
Any of the name brands will work.

Many swear by Redding comp type dies. I went with Whidden dies for my precision .308.

It seems that a Full Length sizing die with interchangeable bushing for the neck is the way to do. Redding and Whidden and Forester make these, that I can think of off the top of my head.
 
Any of the name brands will work.

Many swear by Redding comp type dies. I went with Whidden dies for my precision .308.

It seems that a Full Length sizing die with interchangeable bushing for the neck is the way to do. Redding and Whidden and Forester make these, that I can think of off the top of my head.

Don't people have issues developing the dreaded donut with thise dies?
 
Where you will see your biggest benefit is with the bullet seat die. Forster or Redding with their tight tolerance sliding sleeve design are excellent. I prefer Forster. The design captures both the case and the bullet ensuring co-axial alignment before the bullet is pushed into the case. Runout is minimized. The micrometer adjust is for convenience and adds nothing to improve runout over the basic design.
 
I use a Lyman sizing die and have the lyman seater set for one type of bullet (plinking load) and a forster competition micrometer seater for everything else

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I've debated this subject at length in my own mind, and was even thinking about it again this week (due to my new rifle in .260 Rem necessitating the purchase of new dies). Anyway, I've been using Lee dies on my .308 Win for years, and I ended up picking up another set of Lee dies for the new rifle (with both a neck sizer and a full-length sizer).

I can't sit here and tell you that Lee dies are better than other dies. But, similarly, I can't sit here and tell you that any other dies are better than Lee dies, though I will admit that some certainly seem more refined (and expensive). I guess I got a bit hung up looking at all of the fancy Redding bushing dies, seaters, and other such high-end dies. I figure I'll need to have a good motivation to spend a couple hundred dollars on a set of dies like those, and I just haven't yet found the need to do so.

In short, Lee dies may or may not be the best (and I doubt they're better than a $200 die set), but so far they've proven to be good enough for me... though I'm still thinking of getting a top-end Redding set at some point.
 
Where you will see your biggest benefit is with the bullet seat die. Forster or Redding with their tight tolerance sliding sleeve design are excellent. I prefer Forster. The design captures both the case and the bullet ensuring co-axial alignment before the bullet is pushed into the case. Runout is minimized. The micrometer adjust is for convenience and adds nothing to improve runout over the basic design.

Whidden seater does the same.
 
Everything that everybody has said will work fine. As you are seeing, everyone has their favorites. The basic level is to buy whatever brand that you are already using, in a 2 die FL set. Another level is maybe adding a neck die. The choices here are a regular neck die, a bushing die or a collet die. Then there are the FL sizers with bushings. Another choice would be a FL sizer and a benchrest style seater. Forster, Hornady, RCBS and Redding all offer sets of these. Companies like Neil Jones, Whitten or Harrells make some very nice custom dies.

I can't tell you what to get, but you won't go wrong with a FL sizer and a benchrest seater. Bushing dies are nice, but there is a learning curve there. If you go the bushing die route, you will need a caliper for measuring the loaded diameter at the case neck or a micrometer for measuring neck wall thickness.

This question is ask a lot. A quick search will get you some of the same responses, and maybe some more info. Let us know what route you choose. Lightman