Diesel truck tuners: what's the current go-to?

[Hippy_Steve]

After debating on what's the next best thing I can do to improve my self sustainability, I've decided to do a complete delete of the emissions stuff on my 2013 6.7 powerstroke. Finding info on doing emissions deletes is a pain in the dick, because apparently the Biden admin and his EPA think that noncommercial diesel vehicles are a top tier threat to everyone and everything. In the small amount of info that I've been able to find, using an EZ LYNK and a canadian tuner like Proven Diesel is the best route to go. My plan is to buy a EZ LYNK autoagent 2 or 3, block off the EGR cooler, swap out the DEF/DPF with a simple straight pipe/muffler, and upload the tunes. No plans to increase power output, I just want to get away from the emissions-related headaches I know I'll encounter in the near future. I currently have about 150k miles on my truck, so, I'll be very happy if it makes it to 500k miles after the delete. Total cost of tuner, tune, blocking plates, and new pipe will run me about $1800, and I'm doing the wrenching myself because I don't have a diesel mechanic friend that can help.

Does anyone have advice or opinions? Am I retarded to do a delete on a 6.7 powerstroke with 150K miles on it? Or should I say fuck it, keep it stock, and pray that I can get 10 more years out of this truck with my current driving habits?

 

[Bradu]

Haven't messed with deletes in a while but Mini Maxx were one of the better ones. Your chances of making 500k miles is pretty slim though regardless of which way you go.

6.7L Ford Powerstroke (2011-2022) - Tuner Depot

Experience the power and performance of your 2011-2022 Ford Powerstroke 6.4L with our selection of top-quality performance parts and accessories.

tunerdepot.com

 

[_Windrider_]

After debating on what's the next best thing I can do to improve my self sustainability, I've decided to do a complete delete of the emissions stuff on my 2013 6.7 powerstroke. Finding info on doing emissions deletes is a pain in the dick, because apparently the Biden admin and his EPA think that noncommercial diesel vehicles are a top tier threat to everyone and everything. In the small amount of info that I've been able to find, using an EZ LYNK and a canadian tuner like Proven Diesel is the best route to go. My plan is to buy a EZ LYNK autoagent 2 or 3, block off the EGR cooler, swap out the DEF/DPF with a simple straight pipe/muffler, and upload the tunes. No plans to increase power output, I just want to get away from the emissions-related headaches I know I'll encounter in the near future. I currently have about 150k miles on my truck, so, I'll be very happy if it makes it to 500k miles after the delete. Total cost of tuner, tune, blocking plates, and new pipe will run me about $1800, and I'm doing the wrenching myself because I don't have a diesel mechanic friend that can help.

Does anyone have advice or opinions? Am I retarded to do a delete on a 6.7 powerstroke with 150K miles on it? Or should I say fuck it, keep it stock, and pray that I can get 10 more years out of this truck with my current driving habits?

I did an egr delete on my 6.0 and run a livewire TS+ tuner. It’s been awesome. I did a full bulletproof as well. Mines an 03 with only 128k on it. Plan on keeping it for a long long time. Next project is a 4 link conversion.

 

[kcbird]

I don't think you are retarded at all. $1800 is going to sound pretty good when you DPF has to be replaced at about $5k

 

[chevy_man]

Goodluck.

Doing it yourself with the Canadian sourced tuner is the only way. You can thank the brodozer smoke throwing idiots.


I found that I can buy a lot of gas before the diesel tax makes sense anymore. I also found that after owning and working out of several diesels of all 3 brands, they never pencil out as cheaper.

I'd trade it in on a Godzilla and not worry about $5k repair bills.

 

[in the grove]

I'd look into raceme ultra out of austria. I deleted my 18' Ram with their tuner and havent had an issue.

 

[Bacarrat]

I don't think you are retarded at all. $1800 is going to sound pretty good when you DPF has to be replaced at about $5k

5K would be a deal. Current trends have been 8-10k for the whole repair.

 

[Hobo Hilton]

After debating on what's the next best thing I can do to improve my self sustainability, I've decided to do a complete delete of the emissions stuff on my 2013 6.7 powerstroke. Finding info on doing emissions deletes is a pain in the dick, because apparently the Biden admin and his EPA think that noncommercial diesel vehicles are a top tier threat to everyone and everything. In the small amount of info that I've been able to find, using an EZ LYNK and a canadian tuner like Proven Diesel is the best route to go. My plan is to buy a EZ LYNK autoagent 2 or 3, block off the EGR cooler, swap out the DEF/DPF with a simple straight pipe/muffler, and upload the tunes. No plans to increase power output, I just want to get away from the emissions-related headaches I know I'll encounter in the near future. I currently have about 150k miles on my truck, so, I'll be very happy if it makes it to 500k miles after the delete. Total cost of tuner, tune, blocking plates, and new pipe will run me about $1800, and I'm doing the wrenching myself because I don't have a diesel mechanic friend that can help.

Does anyone have advice or opinions? Am I retarded to do a delete on a 6.7 powerstroke with 150K miles on it? Or should I say fuck it, keep it stock, and pray that I can get 10 more years out of this truck with my current driving habits?

It all depends on a lot of things. I will name a few:

Do you have the resources to make 100% of future repairs on your truck ? Fully equipped shop, hand tools, knowledge, money, computer diagnostic equipment, etc.
Newer Ford trucks (after 2000) became a 'computer with wheels".
There are some things with a tuner that can NEVER be removed from a Ford PSD to get it back to factory specs. Even if you sell it, the buyer inherits all these issues.
All you have to do is to damage one of the many computers and you will be money in the hole to replace.... If you can find a replacement.
Vehicle manufacturer's are only required to sell parts for 10 years after production. Your time is up.
Without knowing your current driving habits = Your truck will be good until it hits 200k miles. Look at all the PSD's on the used car market with 195k miles. Connect the dots.
Your truck will draw a higher resale price if you can document it is " unmolested".

Go over here and do some reading specific to your truck:

6.7L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

6.7L Power Stroke Diesel - 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

www.ford-trucks.com

1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

www.ford-trucks.com

 

[Beefmanne]

Thanks for ruining the planet for the next generation, best of luck with the tunner. Love mine, it’s not made in the US anymore.

 

[chevy_man]

And for what it's worth, I have 3 gassers with 250k+.

The 5.7 is worn out and burning oil in any number of places.

However, the 03 with a 6.0 in my Yukon is still mint. I'm pulling it out to replace another 5.7, and at 256k I'm confident that it'll be just fine for a long time to come.

My 16 6.0 has over 300k and doesn't leak or burn oil. Still pulls hard, only time I miss the diesel is the turbo at elevation.

Gas motors aren't built like they used to be. Neither are the diesels. Diesels used to be underpowered and fuel sipping. My 03 Duramax was slower than the 16 gasser, it did get 20mpg if I drove like grandpa and the parts to fix it when it did break were horrendous. It went over 400k without anything but injectors, but they wiped all the fuel savings away when they did go. It also only got 12mpg pulling the camper while the gasser gets 8mpg. Not enough when fuel is $1/gallon higher.

My Ford trucks were all garbage. Interior was mint well past 200k. Drivetrain left me stranded a bunch of times and fueled some hatred.

 

[mheimer_45]

If you can find a delete capable xrt pro that is that way to go with the older 6.7 fords. 15 and newer is different animal. I’ve had my xrt on my 11 for over 100,000 miles. Zero issues and dealer still works on it.

 

[gigamortis]

I'm lucky to still have my great running 2003 Dodge Cummins 5.9 CR at 270K miles. 19 mpg average its whole life. I have an old discontinued Van Aaken booster box on it that is good for +65hp and +200 torque. Just got done putting $1600 worth of injectors in it to correct long crank time before lighting off. That's equivalent to about 3 new truck payments and I can drive it another 250K+.

If anything ever happened to this pre emissions fine diesel of mine, I would not replace it with any of the newer diesel junk. I would just get a gasser and run nothing but synthetic oil in it for its lifetime. Back when I got my diesel, there wasn't much difference at all between diesel fuel and gasoline price. Now with diesel over $1 more a gallon than gasoline, the main advantage of owning a diesel pickup has been negated.

 

[Bacarrat]

And for what it's worth, I have 3 gassers with 250k+.

The 5.7 is worn out and burning oil in any number of places.

However, the 03 with a 6.0 in my Yukon is still mint. I'm pulling it out to replace another 5.7, and at 256k I'm confident that it'll be just fine for a long time to come.

My 16 6.0 has over 300k and doesn't leak or burn oil. Still pulls hard, only time I miss the diesel is the turbo at elevation.

Gas motors aren't built like they used to be. Neither are the diesels. Diesels used to be underpowered and fuel sipping. My 03 Duramax was slower than the 16 gasser, it did get 20mpg if I drove like grandpa and the parts to fix it when it did break were horrendous. It went over 400k without anything but injectors, but they wiped all the fuel savings away when they did go. It also only got 12mpg pulling the camper while the gasser gets 8mpg. Not enough when fuel is $1/gallon higher.

My Ford trucks were all garbage. Interior was mint well past 200k. Drivetrain left me stranded a bunch of times and fueled some hatred.

The 6.0 is probably one of the best LS they have ever made. You couldn't kill one of the older non-DOD/AFM engines. I have seen plenty of them with over 500K+ miles with just normal maintenance.

I really don't see what people see in the Ford diesels. Ford uses the most shitty coolant connections ever. Ever since the 6.0, 6.4 and now the 6.7 I don't know how many radiator hoses that I have approved in my time. Then you have the new 6.7 with the most fragile fuel system ever. Every week I have to approve of a whole fuel system replacement on one of these engines. Normal parts and labor cost is 12-13K.

 

[BreisV]

After debating on what's the next best thing I can do to improve my self sustainability, I've decided to do a complete delete of the emissions stuff on my 2013 6.7 powerstroke. Finding info on doing emissions deletes is a pain in the dick, because apparently the Biden admin and his EPA think that noncommercial diesel vehicles are a top tier threat to everyone and everything. In the small amount of info that I've been able to find, using an EZ LYNK and a canadian tuner like Proven Diesel is the best route to go. My plan is to buy a EZ LYNK autoagent 2 or 3, block off the EGR cooler, swap out the DEF/DPF with a simple straight pipe/muffler, and upload the tunes. No plans to increase power output, I just want to get away from the emissions-related headaches I know I'll encounter in the near future. I currently have about 150k miles on my truck, so, I'll be very happy if it makes it to 500k miles after the delete. Total cost of tuner, tune, blocking plates, and new pipe will run me about $1800, and I'm doing the wrenching myself because I don't have a diesel mechanic friend that can help.

Does anyone have advice or opinions? Am I retarded to do a delete on a 6.7 powerstroke with 150K miles on it? Or should I say fuck it, keep it stock, and pray that I can get 10 more years out of this truck with my current driving habits?

I bought my 2017 F250 Platinum new and deleted it last year right at 100k when the warranty expired. The truck has been a bulletproof keeper and I plan to have it for a long time. I went with Proven Diesel and the Auto Agent 2. I've been running the 80 HP quick response tune with their TCM high pressure medium shift transmission flash. My fuel economy increased by 5 mpg and it runs like a raped ape. So for less than $2k you get greatly improved fuel economy, more power, no def to buy, and a cleaner running motor that will last a million miles with good maintenance practices. There are quite a few of the early 6.7's used for RV hauling that have hit the million mile mark. I have zero regrets and would do it again in a heartbeat. If you are going to keep your truck, it's the way to go.

A lot of the people posting in this thread seem to think the primary advantage of a diesel is fuel economy. If you tow heavy trailers in the mountains on a regular basis like I do, you know that there isn't a gasser made that can come close to the effortless way a modern turbodiesel truck accomplishes this kind of work while simultaneously getting double digit fuel economy. That's why you buy a diesel!

 

[TexPatriot]

Haven't messed with deletes in a while but Mini Maxx were one of the better ones. Your chances of making 500k miles is pretty slim though regardless of which way you go.

6.7L Ford Powerstroke (2011-2022) - Tuner Depot

Experience the power and performance of your 2011-2022 Ford Powerstroke 6.4L with our selection of top-quality performance parts and accessories.

tunerdepot.com

I studied and researched tuners and custom tunes long time ago for my 2001 7.3 Powerstroke but could never justify it. What did improve performance, especially top end, was swapping the close box lid type air filter for a NAPA 6637 filter and installng a 4" Diamond straight pipe exhaust w/ muffler delete.

The engine can breath, has more response and power and sounds badass.

 

[n2ishun]

I'd look into raceme ultra out of austria. I deleted my 18' Ram with their tuner and havent had an issue.

We all will take seriously the fact that a guy with 1 fucking post is telling us to do something with legality ramifications.
Yup, we're right on top of that Rose.....or is it Leo these days ?

 

[chevy_man]

I bought my 2017 F250 Platinum new and deleted it last year right at 100k when the warranty expired. The truck has been a bulletproof keeper and I plan to have it for a long time. I went with Proven Diesel and the Auto Agent 2. I've been running the 80 HP quick response tune with their TCM high pressure medium shift transmission flash. My fuel economy increased by 5 mpg and it runs like a raped ape. So for less than $2k you get greatly improved fuel economy, more power, no def to buy, and a cleaner running motor that will last a million miles with good maintenance practices. There are quite a few of the early 6.7's used for RV hauling that have hit the million mile mark. I have zero regrets and would do it again in a heartbeat. If you are going to keep your truck, it's the way to go.

A lot of the people posting in this thread seem to think the primary advantage of a diesel is fuel economy. If you tow heavy trailers in the mountains on a regular basis like I do, you know that there isn't a gasser made that can come close to the effortless way a modern turbodiesel truck accomplishes this kind of work while simultaneously getting double digit fuel economy. That's why you buy a diesel!

Since it's been tuned the factory dash fuel economy is going to be off. One of my work trucks would tell me it was getting 12mpg pulling a mini, when it was actually getting 8mpg if I have calculated it. It also said 24 empty, and was more like 18.


The only thing the diesels have is turbos to stuff a ton more air in. That's why they feel better in the mountains. There's also a lot of people that aren't able to put their foot in it and let the gasser spin 5000+ where it actually makes horsepower. You can see this in the Ecoboost where guys are amazed at how hard they pull compared to a 5.0 at 8000'.

Otherwise they feel slow and unresponsive. Some of that is the torque management because they couldn't ever put 900+ ft lbs through 2 tires, but some is also the nature of big heavy engine parts at low rpm.

 

[Hippy_Steve]

It all depends on a lot of things. I will name a few:

Do you have the resources to make 100% of future repairs on your truck ? Fully equipped shop, hand tools, knowledge, money, computer diagnostic equipment, etc.
Newer Ford trucks (after 2000) became a 'computer with wheels".
There are some things with a tuner that can NEVER be removed from a Ford PSD to get it back to factory specs. Even if you sell it, the buyer inherits all these issues.
All you have to do is to damage one of the many computers and you will be money in the hole to replace.... If you can find a replacement.
Vehicle manufacturer's are only required to sell parts for 10 years after production. Your time is up.
Without knowing your current driving habits = Your truck will be good until it hits 200k miles. Look at all the PSD's on the used car market with 195k miles. Connect the dots.
Your truck will draw a higher resale price if you can document it is " unmolested".

Go over here and do some reading specific to your truck:

6.7L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

6.7L Power Stroke Diesel - 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

www.ford-trucks.com

1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

www.ford-trucks.com

This was really informative, thanks. I agree with you on a lot of these points. I know 6.7 powerstrokes with intact DPF/EGRs can last up to 500k miles, because our fleet trucks regularly do so. But these trucks also get regular maintenance by a dedicated and trained shop crew, and i’m not personally footing the bill for every repair. The shop techs have lifts, the ford secret sauce diagnostic software, and all the specialized tools needed to keep a 6.7 running, but I don’t. With cost of repairs in mind, I’ve wanted to downgrade to a pre-2011 ranger for a while now, but the used truck market is fubar: i’m not paying $15k for a rusted out 4x4 2.3L ranger with 190k miles on the OD, and I swore off buying anything “modern” after learning how complicated computer tech is making DIY wrenching.

So, knowing that ford will continue to make parts for 2011-2016 steel body 6.7s for beyond your mentioned 10 year mark, and not having another viable option to go to, i’m doubling down on keeping my truck. Again, i agree with you on almost every point, i just don’t have any real alternatives at the moment or in the foreseeable future.

 

[Hippy_Steve]

And for what it's worth, I have 3 gassers with 250k+.

The 5.7 is worn out and burning oil in any number of places.

However, the 03 with a 6.0 in my Yukon is still mint. I'm pulling it out to replace another 5.7, and at 256k I'm confident that it'll be just fine for a long time to come.

My 16 6.0 has over 300k and doesn't leak or burn oil. Still pulls hard, only time I miss the diesel is the turbo at elevation.

Gas motors aren't built like they used to be. Neither are the diesels. Diesels used to be underpowered and fuel sipping. My 03 Duramax was slower than the 16 gasser, it did get 20mpg if I drove like grandpa and the parts to fix it when it did break were horrendous. It went over 400k without anything but injectors, but they wiped all the fuel savings away when they did go. It also only got 12mpg pulling the camper while the gasser gets 8mpg. Not enough when fuel is $1/gallon higher.

My Ford trucks were all garbage. Interior was mint well past 200k. Drivetrain left me stranded a bunch of times and fueled some hatred.

I had a injector short on me 6 months ago, which led me to read about CP4 failures on pre-16 6.7s. Luckily my CP4 was fine, and we’ve never seen a fuel pump failure in our high mileage fleet vehicles, but that doesn’t mean lightning can’t strike.

 

[Hippy_Steve]

I'm lucky to still have my great running 2003 Dodge Cummins 5.9 CR at 270K miles. 19 mpg average its whole life. I have an old discontinued Van Aaken booster box on it that is good for +65hp and +200 torque. Just got done putting $1600 worth of injectors in it to correct long crank time before lighting off. That's equivalent to about 3 new truck payments and I can drive it another 250K+.

If anything ever happened to this pre emissions fine diesel of mine, I would not replace it with any of the newer diesel junk. I would just get a gasser and run nothing but synthetic oil in it for its lifetime. Back when I got my diesel, there wasn't much difference at all between diesel fuel and gasoline price. Now with diesel over $1 more a gallon than gasoline, the main advantage of owning a diesel pickup has been negated.

If i could go back in time, i would have bought a smaller pickup like a gen 2 tacoma or a pre-2011 ranger. Oh well, i’m sleeping in the bed i made.

 

[Hobo Hilton]

This was really informative, thanks. I agree with you on a lot of these points. I know 6.7 powerstrokes with intact DPF/EGRs can last up to 500k miles, because our fleet trucks regularly do so. But these trucks also get regular maintenance by a dedicated and trained shop crew, and i’m not personally footing the bill for every repair. The shop techs have lifts, the ford secret sauce diagnostic software, and all the specialized tools needed to keep a 6.7 running, but I don’t. With cost of repairs in mind, I’ve wanted to downgrade to a pre-2011 ranger for a while now, but the used truck market is fubar: i’m not paying $15k for a rusted out 4x4 2.3L ranger with 190k miles on the OD, and I swore off buying anything “modern” after learning how complicated computer tech is making DIY wrenching.

So, knowing that ford will continue to make parts for 2011-2016 steel body 6.7s for beyond your mentioned 10 year mark, and not having another viable option to go to, i’m doubling down on keeping my truck. Again, i agree with you on almost every point, i just don’t have any real alternatives at the moment or in the foreseeable future.

You mention "Fleet Trucks" and the support team.
In the old days we called that "preventive maintenance" (PM). It was very cost efficient back in the 60's prior to all of the onboard computers.
Today PM is very, very costly. This is why so many smaller fleets trade off equipment (trucks, cars, forklifts, tractors, generator's, etc) at a pre-determined point.
Usually it is the accountant / bean counter that set's that exit point. Many considerations like extended warranties, tax write off / depreciation, severe duty conditions, carbon foot prints, shortage of qualified techs and many, many more factors. Small contractors are renting 100% of their tools and equipment and tacking their profit on top. The moment a back hoe is not needed, it is released back to the rental company. Left over material is put in the dumpster and the site is clean and the contractor has no warehouse expense to store stuff. Many are operating off the dash board of their truck and the spare room at their house. Those will survive.

 

[TexPatriot]

I have a 2001 F-350 7.3 PSD I ordered in 2000. When I bought it, diesel was cheaper than gas, as it should be.

As I mentioned earlier, the only mods I've done to the engine are replacing the boxed in filter with a 6637 NAPA and installed a 4" straight exhaust w/muffler delete.

I've never chipped or tuned it because I didn't need to. It cruises at 70-75 comfortably and will do 90 with no effort.

I just had the oil changed a couple of hours ago and the clock read 488,050.

 

[TexPatriot]

You mention "Fleet Trucks" and the support team.
In the old days we called that "preventive maintenance" (PM). It was very cost efficient back in the 60's prior to all of the onboard computers.
Today PM is very, very costly. This is why so many smaller fleets trade off equipment (trucks, cars, forklifts, tractors, generator's, etc) at a pre-determined point.
Usually it is the accountant / bean counter that set's that exit point. Many considerations like extended warranties, tax write off / depreciation, severe duty conditions, carbon foot prints, shortage of qualified techs and many, many more factors. Small contractors are renting 100% of their tools and equipment and tacking their profit on top. The moment a back hoe is not needed, it is released back to the rental company. Left over material is put in the dumpster and the site is clean and the contractor has no warehouse expense to store stuff. Many are operating off the dash board of their truck and the spare room at their house. Those will survive.

This is me. I have a backhoe, skidsteer and truck, long since paid for. I sub out or rent anything else what I need for a project and office out of my home.

 

[GreenGO Juan]

After debating on what's the next best thing I can do to improve my self sustainability, I've decided to do a complete delete of the emissions stuff on my 2013 6.7 powerstroke. Finding info on doing emissions deletes is a pain in the dick, because apparently the Biden admin and his EPA think that noncommercial diesel vehicles are a top tier threat to everyone and everything. In the small amount of info that I've been able to find, using an EZ LYNK and a canadian tuner like Proven Diesel is the best route to go. My plan is to buy a EZ LYNK autoagent 2 or 3, block off the EGR cooler, swap out the DEF/DPF with a simple straight pipe/muffler, and upload the tunes. No plans to increase power output, I just want to get away from the emissions-related headaches I know I'll encounter in the near future. I currently have about 150k miles on my truck, so, I'll be very happy if it makes it to 500k miles after the delete. Total cost of tuner, tune, blocking plates, and new pipe will run me about $1800, and I'm doing the wrenching myself because I don't have a diesel mechanic friend that can help.

Does anyone have advice or opinions? Am I retarded to do a delete on a 6.7 powerstroke with 150K miles on it? Or should I say fuck it, keep it stock, and pray that I can get 10 more years out of this truck with my current driving habits?

If you wana street drive it and get more power call Gale Banks. That the HMIC on doing it the legal way. If you wana go the other way. Don't leave a trail.

Publicly talking about this is stupid. You realize that you are basically admitting guilt and they can use this against you or any company that gets involved as evidence of criminal activity. Some of these companies have been hit with hefty fines and no longer sell any of the products for deletes because of this

Its akin to the CRS guy and his buddy looking at 155 years of combined jail time for their Lightning link crap, posting it on Youtube and leaving a mile long paper trail.

stop being ignorant.

 

[Sean the Nailer]

I have a 2001 F-350 7.3 PSD I ordered in 2000. When I bought it, diesel was cheaper than gas, as it should be.

As I mentioned earlier, the only mods I've done to the engine are replacing the boxed in filter with a 6637 NAPA and installed a 4" straight exhaust w/muffler delete.

I've never chipped or tuned it because I didn't need to. It cruises at 70-75 comfortably and will do 90 with no effort.

I just had the oil changed a couple of hours ago and the clock read 488,050.

So, what I hear you saying is,,,, you're wanting to upgrade?

(wishful thinking font 'off' now)

But if you ever DO want to part with this truck, please remember me in your memoirs!

 

[PB&J.]

Self sustainability and common rail electronic injection don't belong in the same sentence.

An older non turbocharged, mechanical indirect injection diesel is about as simple and reliable as it gets. If you are even somewhat semi serious about self sustainability then there's no other choice.

Park up high somewhere and watch those EMP's fall, then bump start your junk and roll off into the sunset burning whatever old oil and heavy fuels you can scrounge up along the way.

 

[SONIC SAAMI]

I'm not gonna read through all this.
The only diesel to have is that in-line six Cummings.

However, the passenger pick up diesel is dead.

7.3L FORD GAS ENGINE

 

[Hippy_Steve]

If you wana street drive it and get more power call Gale Banks. That the HMIC on doing it the legal way. If you wana go the other way. Don't leave a trail.

Publicly talking about this is stupid. You realize that you are basically admitting guilt and they can use this against you or any company that gets involved as evidence of criminal activity. Some of these companies have been hit with hefty fines and no longer sell any of the products for deletes because of this

Its akin to the CRS guy and his buddy looking at 155 years of combined jail time for their Lightning link crap, posting it on Youtube and leaving a mile long paper trail.

stop being ignorant.

People like you are the reason why our elected representatives don’t fear us anymore.

 

[TexPatriot]

So, what I hear you saying is,,,, you're wanting to upgrade?

(wishful thinking font 'off' now)

But if you ever DO want to part with this truck, please remember me in your memoirs!

The first month I had it someone tried to steal it out of the driveway in S. Austin. The passanger side front door handle plate still has the mark where they tried to get a prybar under it.

I park it now next to my bedroom window with a clear field of fire. It's like tying your horse to your wrist in Indian country.

 

[GreenGO Juan]

People like you are the reason why our elected representatives don’t fear us anymore.

People like you are why business are paying out 6 and 7 figure settlements.

I know the answer you seek fuck stick. And you are a fucking retard for leaving a paper trail. Idiots like you get others in trouble.

You are not a bad ass... you are a moron.

 

[Hippy_Steve]

Self sustainability and common rail electronic injection don't belong in the same sentence.

An older non turbocharged, mechanical indirect injection diesel is about as simple and reliable as it gets. If you are even somewhat semi serious about self sustainability then there's no other choice.

Park up high somewhere and watch those EMP's fall, then bump start your junk and roll off into the sunset burning whatever old oil and heavy fuels you can scrounge up along the way.

I agree, but where will i find that kind of truck? My original post wasn’t about increasing gas milage or surviving EMPs; I’m asking what’s the best delete/tuner to increase the service life of what i currently have. I’m trying to make lemonade with these lemons.

 

[GreenGO Juan]

 

[Hippy_Steve]

People like you are why business are paying out 6 and 7 figure settlements.

I know the answer you seek fuck stick. And you are a fucking retard for leaving a paper trail. Idiots like you get others in trouble.

You are not a bad ass... you are a moron.

How Californian of you. Thank you for telling us how empathetic you are to all the small businesses that got fucked by the EPA. Because of your contributions, I’m sure someone will read this thread and think twice about asking dangerous questions out loud!

 

[GreenGO Juan]

How Californian of you. Thank you for telling us how empathetic you are to all the small businesses that got fucked by the EPA. Because of your contributions, I’m sure someone will read this thread and think twice about asking dangerous questions out loud!

You are the problem. You are just too stupid to realize it. Or you are fishing to fuck people over.

I've decided to do a complete delete of the emissions stuff on my 2013 6.7 powerstroke. Finding info on doing emissions deletes is a pain in the dick, because apparently the Biden admin and his EPA think that noncommercial diesel vehicles are a top tier threat to everyone and everything.

you are the problem.

Do you want people to publicly out how they did this? Listing companies involved etc..

Get fucked

If you had any sense about you’d delete this thread.

 

[CaptArab]

The 6.0 is probably one of the best LS they have ever made. You couldn't kill one of the older non-DOD/AFM engines. I have seen plenty of them with over 500K+ miles with just normal maintenance.

I really don't see what people see in the Ford diesels. Ford uses the most shitty coolant connections ever. Ever since the 6.0, 6.4 and now the 6.7 I don't know how many radiator hoses that I have approved in my time. Then you have the new 6.7 with the most fragile fuel system ever. Every week I have to approve of a whole fuel system replacement on one of these engines. Normal parts and labor cost is 12-13K.

They worked the kinks outta that Godzilla yet?

 

[Bacarrat]

They worked the kinks outta that Godzilla yet?

Nothing crazy yet that has come across my desk. And I really don't expect too many issues either as it's a old school pushrod motor. I'm really thinking this could be the next great hot rod engine.

 

[Hippy_Steve]

Update on my end, i’m moving forward with this project: everything is ordered and currently being shipped. Interestingly, everything is being shipped from Canada, so it will take a bit, but I’m in no rush. I chose to buy Proven Diesel’s lifetime tuning service, and i’m going to use an EZ Lynk to flash my ECU. I’m currently getting frequent regens on my DPF, so I think it’s about to fail. Good timing on my part i guess. I’ll post another update once i have everything installed.

 

[redhooker]

Sounds like you have everything under control. Lots of reasons a diesel is a better truck than gas. How many gas trucks 15 years old with 200k miles are selling for 30k? None. Resale is where you make up all the added expense of a diesel and more. Not to mention there isn’t a gas truck without a supercharger that can touch mine for power, speed or towing capability. I run a SOTF GDP tune that goes from stock power up to 750hp/1200fp. Never been above level 3 which will smoke 4 35x12.5 Toyos on my dually.

The ezlink is a great way to go, but consider ordering an autocal tune (or similar canned tuner) set up for your trucks modifications in the event tuning from Canada disappears in the future and you need to replace an ecm or similar. Put it on a closet shelf as a JIC.

Every non dealer shop in Florida will work on a deleted truck. They just can’t delete them or tell you how. Some dealers will work on them as well.

 

[Mister Ridge]

Nothing crazy yet that has come across my desk. And I really don't expect too many issues either as it's a old school pushrod motor. I'm really thinking this could be the next great hot rod engine.

Lifter problems?

 

[Bacarrat]

Lifter problems?

I haven't seen one repeatedly enough to say that it would be a common issue or not. But then again, it wouldn't surprise me that if we did start seeing more and more of them. There are only like 1 or 2 companies in the US that makes lifters for the OEMs. Johnson something, I forget. I know that Dodge and GM gets their lifters from them and I have approved plenty of those repairs.

 

[cas6969]

More alphabet employees watching now.

 

[Hippy_Steve]

Update: delete complete. truck runs great. I removed both the DPF and EGR in one day. Hardest part was everything. There’s no space to work on anything on 6.7 powerstrokes, and it doesn’t help that I have large hands.

For those that see this post in a year, first thing I did was flash my ECU with my tuner and tune. I keeping mine at factory power for now, because other than the smell of the exhaust, you can’t see or hear much of a difference. I’m not one to attract eyeballs or roll coal.

Then I started at the DPF by unplugging all of the sensors, which are mounted on the frame. Don’t bother trying to unbolt the sensors on the DPF, you’re going to quickly lose that battle. Then I unbolted the DPF from the down pipe and tail pipe, leaving the OEM tips and resonator on the truck. Then I unbolted the DPF hangers from the frame, and slowly swung the whole DPF free. The DPF is heavy; don’t be under it when it falls. Lastly was bolting on the straight pipe. My pipe didn’t come with hardware, I had to run to the hardware store to buy some bolts to connect the new straight pipe with the OEM resonator, but whatever.

Then the EGR got my attention. I won’t describe the process here, but yelling obscenities helped. Youtube has resources, and i can’t believe i’m typing this out, but look at the comments section of those videos; i found some very helpful pearls in that muck. I used a harbor freight stubby 10mm ratchet (see pic attached) to remove the “infamous” 10mm bolt on the driver’s side rear of the EGR cooler. 2013 6.7 powerstrokes have a hook-style bracket back there, so you won’t need to completely remove the bolt like I did.

And that’s it. Several trips to harbor freight and a day later, I was able to do everything in my driveway. I’m happy to answer questions and tell obese keyboard lawyers to fuck off. 5/10 wish I did it all with a beer.

 

[GreenGO Juan]

Update: delete complete. truck runs great. I removed both the DPF and EGR in one day. Hardest part was everything. There’s no space to work on anything on 6.7 powerstrokes, and it doesn’t help that I have large hands.

For those that see this post in a year, first thing I did was flash my ECU with my tuner and tune. I keeping mine at factory power for now, because other than the smell of the exhaust, you can’t see or hear much of a difference. I’m not one to attract eyeballs or roll coal.

Then I started at the DPF by unplugging all of the sensors, which are mounted on the frame. Don’t bother trying to unbolt the sensors on the DPF, you’re going to quickly lose that battle. Then I unbolted the DPF from the down pipe and tail pipe, leaving the OEM tips and resonator on the truck. Then I unbolted the DPF hangers from the frame, and slowly swung the whole DPF free. The DPF is heavy; don’t be under it when it falls. Lastly was bolting on the straight pipe. My pipe didn’t come with hardware, I had to run to the hardware store to buy some bolts to connect the new straight pipe with the OEM resonator, but whatever.

Then the EGR got my attention. I won’t describe the process here, but yelling obscenities helped. Youtube has resources, and i can’t believe i’m typing this out, but look at the comments section of those videos; i found some very helpful pearls in that muck. I used a harbor freight stubby 10mm ratchet (see pic attached) to remove the “infamous” 10mm bolt on the driver’s side rear of the EGR cooler. 2013 6.7 powerstrokes have a hook-style bracket back there, so you won’t need to completely remove the bolt like I did.

And that’s it. Several trips to harbor freight and a day later, I was able to do everything in my driveway. I’m happy to answer questions and tell obese keyboard lawyers to fuck off. 5/10 wish I did it all with a beer.


View attachment 8137616

Good god you are stupid.

 

[Hippy_Steve]

Also forgot to mention that, for a 10 year old truck in the inland northwest, my body and frame looked clean. Hardly any rust despite these roads being salted to shit.

 

[GreenGO Juan]

Also forgot to mention that, for a 10 year old truck in the inland northwest, my body and frame looked clean. Hardly any rust despite these roads being salted to shit.

Report Environmental Violations | ECHO | US EPA

echo.epa.gov

You just gave all the evidence needed, all it would take is some one to report you... which I won't do... Just pointing out how fucking stupid you are.

 

[GreenGO Juan]

20:55 Listen...