I recently tried a technique to set reticle focus that I haven't seen discussed before.
-Took the scope (Trijicon Tenmile 3-18x44) to into a pitch dark room
-Set parallax to infinity
-Set the zoom to where the whole reticle fills to the edge of the glass
-Turned on the green illumination to #2
-Focused until everything was razor sharp with the illumination
-Lowered the magnification to the minimum that I could read the numbers and resolve the space between the dots in the tree
-Ensured everything was sharp there as well
That was it. I tested it using the standard method of setting FFP focus outside against a clear blue sky without illum and realized I achieved ideal focus using the illuminated reticle in a dark room method.
Did the same with a Meopta Optika6 3-18x56 however it was a little more difficult due to the poor implementation of illumination with that scope. Still managed to get it to work though. The Trijicon was much easier however because the illumination on that is very nice and the green has less blur than red for me.
Barring the obvious limitations of the method, if it is applicable to your scope model I think it could be worthwhile (took less than 1min). At first I thought maybe it would be a bad idea due to blur and saturation but it ended up working with me in that regard in order to determine ideal focus.
What do you guys think?
-Took the scope (Trijicon Tenmile 3-18x44) to into a pitch dark room
-Set parallax to infinity
-Set the zoom to where the whole reticle fills to the edge of the glass
-Turned on the green illumination to #2
-Focused until everything was razor sharp with the illumination
-Lowered the magnification to the minimum that I could read the numbers and resolve the space between the dots in the tree
-Ensured everything was sharp there as well
That was it. I tested it using the standard method of setting FFP focus outside against a clear blue sky without illum and realized I achieved ideal focus using the illuminated reticle in a dark room method.
Did the same with a Meopta Optika6 3-18x56 however it was a little more difficult due to the poor implementation of illumination with that scope. Still managed to get it to work though. The Trijicon was much easier however because the illumination on that is very nice and the green has less blur than red for me.
Barring the obvious limitations of the method, if it is applicable to your scope model I think it could be worthwhile (took less than 1min). At first I thought maybe it would be a bad idea due to blur and saturation but it ended up working with me in that regard in order to determine ideal focus.
What do you guys think?
