It's going to have to play this while doing that:Set up an Ampmate to drop the annealed cases onto a short conveyor through a small cooling tunnel and drop it right into the case feeder. Why not!
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It's going to have to play this while doing that:Set up an Ampmate to drop the annealed cases onto a short conveyor through a small cooling tunnel and drop it right into the case feeder. Why not!
Do you see any differences between old fashioned dry tumbling media vs the 20-40 grit corn cob blast media when it comes to dust? Or is there anything you do to cut down on dust production?If you do dry tumbling check out corn cob blast media that's 20-40 grit. It's small enough that it doesn't get stuck in flash holes and still makes nice shiny brass. Sometimes I'll throw in some car polish to bump it up a little.
Main reason I don't like to process/load all in one pass is because the lube eventually gets gummy on the internal dillon powder funnel and can catch powder kernels or cause bridging. Keeping loading clean/separate from the lube is preferable IMO.
I don't usually figure time spent tumbling into the overall reloading time. It takes me 30 seconds to dump it in there or sift it out and I can leave it as long as I want and get back to reloading whenever. Helpful if you have a huge lot of brass so that you do brass prep only every once in a while then load for each match as needed. Most calibers I've got 600-1k piece of brass that I cycle through.
cut a dryer sheet into strips or use the Dillon polish or Nu-Finish car polishDo you see any differences between old fashioned dry tumbling media vs the 20-40 grit corn cob blast media when it comes to dust? Or is there anything you do to cut down on dust production?
I have two 650's, one set up for 9mm, the other set up for .45 ACP. The 9 setup has an Autodrive (highly recommend) and a second Autodrive is in transit for the .45 rig. Both rigs have casefeeders and Mr. Bulletfeeders (again, highly recommend). The Autodrives and Mr. Bulletfeeders don't cost any more for the larger presses. Mark 7/Lyman just announced a $250.00 rebate on all Autodrives .If you wanna be a baller run a 650 or a 750 with a mark 7 autodrive and 2 auto tricklers
My original thought was to tumble live rounds and I may give that a go first and if results aren't favorable I may take a step back and look at the 2 head solution.
Do you see any differences between old fashioned dry tumbling media vs the 20-40 grit corn cob blast media when it comes to dust? Or is there anything you do to cut down on dust production?
The Autodrive allows for that, at either end of the stroke. Specifically for trimming and powder dropping, but it can be used for stuff like what you describe.Good god that would be the pinnacle of precision loading. If the RT1500 would come with a tri-way cutter, you could literally load all in one pass. That of course does not include annealing, so maybe thats a pipe dream, but just being able to set the 1100 to even a 2-4sec pause at the top. IF you ran 2 powder set ups you could just dump manually.
The thing that has impressed me the most with the Autodrive is that it just plain works.The Autodrive allows for that, at either end of the stroke. Specifically for trimming and powder dropping, but it can be used for stuff like what you describe.
I'm telling you, the Autodrive is just some very cool tech that opens up a lot of options.
The Autodrive allows for that, at either end of the stroke. Specifically for trimming and powder dropping, but it can be used for stuff like what you describe.
I'm telling you, the Autodrive is just some very cool tech that opens up a lot of options.
It really depends. Reloading is almost never about saving money; it's about control of your ammo's quality, and being able to have it on demand (like during this ammo shortage).Oh wow, I assumed you could slow it down but didn’t know you could program pauses into the operation. That would be pretty legit for sizing and mandrel as well.
Is autodrive really worth it on a 750 though?
I mean, $2400 for the auto drive and another $400+ for the Mr bullet feeder. Phewwww that’s a lot of damn 9mm to even come close to covering the cost of all that lol
Never thought of the leed decapping die on the "loading" rifle head - great idea!I use a DL550 with two tool heads.
Before I begin my process I anneal the brass.
Apply Hornady one shot to brass.
First time through the Dillon, Station 1 is set up to decap. Station 2 resizes and I have replaced the decapping/neck expander with a borebrush to clean the inside of the neck. Station 3 is empty and station 4 is a neck expander to set .0025" of neck tension.
The brass then goes into the vibratory cleaner for 30 minutes.
Second time through the Dillon with the second tool head. Station 1 is lee decapping die just to guarantee nothing is in the flash hole and the case gets primed (PRO TIP- walnut media has never gotten stuck in the flash hole like corn cob can). Station 2 is a Dillon powder die with area419 funnel, station 3 is where I add the bullet by hand and station 4 is the seating die.
I'd recommend the Mighty Armory "flicker" decapping die as well. It's a spring loaded (think: set punch) decapping pin, so there's no potential for draw back. It really launches the spent primers out of the case. Dillon has even copied it. It's commented on in their manual, but not listed on their website, so I don't know if Dillon has gotten around to actually offering them. Regardless, I figured Wayne came up with the design, so went with one from him at MA. (MA also makes a "smart" version for an Autodrive, to prevent breaking the decapping pin on an inverted case, or a nested case like a 22LR sitting in a 9mm case. @Threadcutter308 turned me on to MA, so he gets the credit)Never thought of the leed decapping die on the "loading" rifle head - great idea!