My direct thread suppressor keeps coming loose every few shots. How do you guys avoid this? I tighten it, but I can tell by my groupings when it loosens.
Direct thread keeps coming loose
- Thread starter AR-180
- Start date
+1 on the vibra-tite.
Also use a wrench to tighten.
With Vibra-Tite you don’t need to coat the entire thread. Paint a couple of stripes at opposite sides of the threads.
Let it sit for about 15 minutes per instructions. Then screw the suppressor in place and torque it down with a wrench.
Note however I’ve done this with some rifles and others I just tightened it securely with a wrench. After firing a few rounds check the tightness with a wrench.
When you’re done shooting for the day, loosen the suppressor while it’s still hot.
If not, the steel contracts and the carbon fouling is almost like an enhanced super glue. You will have a royal PITA trying to get it off later.
I use the vibra-tite on rimfire a pistol suppressors. Anti-seize is used on center fire direct thread rifle suppressors.
The wrench trick while hot solves the problems on the rifle can coming loose, even with anti-seize.
I must have gorilla strength, as I've never had one loosen?
Snug it up and then back it off slightly and give it a good snap tight.
I've yet to need a wrench to get one on or off, but now that I say that...
Snug it up and then back it off slightly and give it a good snap tight.
I've yet to need a wrench to get one on or off, but now that I say that...
My dead air nomad L never loosens from my bolt gun. But I have no experience with a gasser. I always use spark plug lube on mine and never have a problem either loosening or sticking. Even after a hundred rounds.
I would contact TSC for torque specs or other recommendations. Vibra-Tite makes a wide range of threadlocking products. Most are referring to VC-3 when they say Vibra-Tite, but that product only has a 165F temp rating and is not suitable for muzzle devices. The temp rating of what threadlocker you would need is mostly dependent on rate of fire. Semi/full autos typically need something like Rocksett, but most don't apply it properly.
Shoot till as warm as you can handle then crank down by hand, let it cool and it should be good.
So you want OP to rocksett his suppressor?
If it’s got wrench cuts I use that for bolt guns.
On ARs I use a strap wrench to put a little extra torque on there.
Makes removing carbon locked ones a breeze too.
Attachments
If you know what you're doing. But for you, I would recommend having it professionally installed.
I use a quality, checked for flat crush washer on cans that won’t stay put. I bought a bunch and to see which ones were the most flat/true and they were all fine. Make sure it sits flat on the barrel shoulder and on the face of the can. Obviously don’t crush the crush washer with your can, just snug it hand tight and it grabs the can.
I googled professional rocksett applicators in my area and it didn't find anything.
Would one of those star washers work like what’s on the grip screw of an AR?
My DT saker 556k was scary loose after running it hard the other day. Like at least a full turn loose.
My DT saker 556k was scary loose after running it hard the other day. Like at least a full turn loose.
Weld it, the whole way around not just a tack or stitch.
My thunderbeast has never come loose on my bolt guns, and I use that copper anti-seize stuff, and I’ve never used a strap wrench or anything to tighten it. I just grab the barrel and the can and put all my strength into tightening it.
Now that the can lives on my 300blackout AR, I did mill and tap a hole for a 10-32 set screw to touch down in the thread relief just in front of the shoulder. I even milled a little dimple in the thread relief for the set screw to go into and form a mechanical lock. So it can’t be unscrewed unless that set screw is backed out.
Just my opinion, but I’d never use red loctite anywhere on a rifle… learned that lesson the hard way 10 years ago. And blue loctite isn’t heat proof, so I can’t see using it on any muzzle device.
Now that the can lives on my 300blackout AR, I did mill and tap a hole for a 10-32 set screw to touch down in the thread relief just in front of the shoulder. I even milled a little dimple in the thread relief for the set screw to go into and form a mechanical lock. So it can’t be unscrewed unless that set screw is backed out.
Just my opinion, but I’d never use red loctite anywhere on a rifle… learned that lesson the hard way 10 years ago. And blue loctite isn’t heat proof, so I can’t see using it on any muzzle device.
Loctite and rocksett don't work.
Think, girls.....they are both designed to release with heat.
Duh.
The thing that worked best for me is to take a chisel and hammer and lightly score 2 lines thru threads at 180* apart.
Go across the threads from muzzle tip to the base of the threaded portion.
It works just like an interference style lock nut.
Think, girls.....they are both designed to release with heat.
Duh.
The thing that worked best for me is to take a chisel and hammer and lightly score 2 lines thru threads at 180* apart.
Go across the threads from muzzle tip to the base of the threaded portion.
It works just like an interference style lock nut.
You could always run a Dead Air XENO mount setup. I will probably end up running this on my bolt-action hunting rifles. They're super light (titanium) and it's LH threads, so it won't loosen up while shooting.
Ill just leave a quote from a Very Talented rifle builder ( Sadly he no longer does work for hire )
" not all muzzle threads are created equal "
" not all muzzle threads are created equal "
Thunderbeast threads are Class 3 and fit well with properly theeaded barrels
Not always so with other brands
Even blue Loctite when used with a can doesnt come loose with heat from shooting
I sent a can into Silencerco as the rear end cap was stuck; the body of the can that was factory glued loosened off
SiCo shipped the can back to me without addressing the rear end cap and glued the can body back on poorly without lining it up properly so it looks... wrong
I would think twice before using Loctite, even blue. At the very least use it sparingly
Check out Rearden Muzzle/can interface.
Running on my primary now and have had no issues so far. I'm using the Minimalist and like the low weight of this combo
Has not come loose at all
ASR works to keep the can on but is heavy clunky and ugly.
Not always so with other brands
Even blue Loctite when used with a can doesnt come loose with heat from shooting
I sent a can into Silencerco as the rear end cap was stuck; the body of the can that was factory glued loosened off
SiCo shipped the can back to me without addressing the rear end cap and glued the can body back on poorly without lining it up properly so it looks... wrong
I would think twice before using Loctite, even blue. At the very least use it sparingly
Check out Rearden Muzzle/can interface.
Running on my primary now and have had no issues so far. I'm using the Minimalist and like the low weight of this combo
Has not come loose at all
ASR works to keep the can on but is heavy clunky and ugly.
Send it to Ecco , have it modified to use tbac brakes.
That was my solution on a few
That was my solution on a few
You do you. But giving recommendations of ruining muzzle threads with a chisel is just insane.
Past chisel user here, now I just give the muzzle threads a few medium heavy whacks with a ball peen hammer. Same results one less tool.
This but have it converted to the Omega thread pattern because there’s way better attachment methods now than the TBAC CB brake. I wish I could have my Ultra 7 CB converted.
Went down a lock washer rabbit hole.
Anybody use Nord-Lock type washers in industry? these look like they would be the ticket for this application if someone were inclined to.
Anybody use Nord-Lock type washers in industry? these look like they would be the ticket for this application if someone were inclined to.
After you do it to your rifle can you post pics? I’m curious as to what exactly the process/outcome looks like and if it works
Thank you, I will look them up.
I'm running Rearden minimalist paired with the part that screws into the rear of can now with great results.
I do need to learn the vernacular
You mean nuts and bolts designed for one time only use? I work with these a lot. Are you trashing your barrel and silencer adapter after every switch / change? Good for you, I can’t afford this.
This is probably the dumbest shit I’ve ever seen. I don’t give 3 fucks how much you have done, and seen. This is moronic. Yes I use interference locknuts all the time. They are one time use. What you are advocating for is wanton destruction of barrel and suppressor threads. Don’t try to tell us how smart you are, or any of your other bullshit you always try. This is the pinnacle of stupidity.
