First things first, this is not my creation, I am just spreading the information. With the sinking cost of 3d printers, it is becoming more advantageous for us DIY types to make the things we need instead of buying them. Don't get me wrong the Mr. Bullet Feeder appears to be a great product. However, IMHO it is a little to pricey for what it is. I have finished building the openBulletFeeder by AmmoMike83 and would like to share some the parts list I used and provide any information I can to assist others in building their own. Assembly is pretty straight forward, I do not want to clutter this thread with available information, so I will link to it when possible. The instructions located here (https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/cf/d4/17/ca/57/bullet_feeder_assembly_for_Lee_Loadmaster.pdf) proved to be very helpful during my experience. Now on to the parts list (my build was for 223)....
These are the MANDATORY parts (Available from Double Alpha Academy) ($86.41 for one caliber diameter, each additional caliber requires a bullet feed die which is $49,95), you have to have these parts (the motor can be substituted for one of the other types in the files below). The prices are current as of 29 October 2019, but are subject to change.
Switch Parts
Depending on what type of switch you want you will need one of the following groups (A or B) I went with B because it seemed more reliable. For group A I am not 100% sure that I have listed everything you would need. Group B is a little more expensive due to buying multiple components when you only need one or two, but you also have spares, or parts for other projects. For wiring the switch please check out this wiring_schematic.pdf.
Mechanical Switch (Group A), all these are available at Double Alpha Academy (approx. $35.35):
Optical Switch (Group B) all parts are available from Amazon (approx. $41.18 total):
3D printed parts:
Almost everything is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2504314 this includes all the major parts you will need for the main feed assembly.
Parts that I used, which are included in this file:
bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_double_slide.stl
bf_v2_base_WH120_ET-ZGMP38_MBF.stl
bf_v2_collator_plate_223.stl
bf_v2_drop_tube_light_barrier_id6.0mm_small_spring.stl
bf_v2_flipper_v2.stl
Also be sure to check out the wiring_schematic.pdf for information on how to wire up the controller. The print settings for these parts are as follows (from the thingiverse page):
Rafts: Doesn't Matter
Supports: Yes
Resolution: 0,15 mm or higher resolution
Infill: 80% or more!
Notes:
Support depends on the part.
Base and collator plates can be printed without support.
Layer Height 0.2 or less
Shell thickness .8 for Wall and bottom/top
Infill Density 40-50% for base
Infill Density 80% or more für collator plates
Wall Count: 4
Generate support: off
build plate adhesion type: brim
brim width: 6 mm or 8 mm
Recommended filament temp for PLA - see spool
Recommended bed temp for PLA is 65-70 °C.
cooling: enabled
retraction: enabled
speed: depends on printer and used material
The control box I used to house the electronics is located here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3520214 and holds all the parts I listed. Although not required, you can purchase some wire loom (Amazon ASIN: B07K1XC8XV) to dress is up and make it look pretty. Instead of using the spring adapters in the original “thing” I used the quick change ones located here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207921/files you only need the files named “chute_adapter_new.stl” “large_spring_adapter.stl” and “small_spring_adapter.stl”
Mounting
This is an area I feel all the instructions I found are lacking, and I came up with my own solution using one of the included mounts (bf_v2_mount_3_4_inch_squared_), and some ¾ inch aluminum square tubing.
I think I covered everything (though I may have been vague, and for that I am sorry) if I have missed anything, or if you need clarification please let me know and I will do my best to clear it up. I am running this on a Hornady LnL AP (and will be running on an XL750 soon), but this setup can likely be adapted to any progressive press.
These are the MANDATORY parts (Available from Double Alpha Academy) ($86.41 for one caliber diameter, each additional caliber requires a bullet feed die which is $49,95), you have to have these parts (the motor can be substituted for one of the other types in the files below). The prices are current as of 29 October 2019, but are subject to change.
- Mr.Bulletfeeder output spring and extension adaptor (need one large ad one small depending on your caliber needs) - $11.95 ea
- Mr.Bulletfeeder DC motor - $24.50
- Mr.BulletFeeder by DAA Die Assembly Only (for calibers of choice) - $49.95 ea
Switch Parts
Depending on what type of switch you want you will need one of the following groups (A or B) I went with B because it seemed more reliable. For group A I am not 100% sure that I have listed everything you would need. Group B is a little more expensive due to buying multiple components when you only need one or two, but you also have spares, or parts for other projects. For wiring the switch please check out this wiring_schematic.pdf.
Mechanical Switch (Group A), all these are available at Double Alpha Academy (approx. $35.35):
- Mr.Bulletfeeder Wire Harness Assembly - $7.95
- Mr.Bulletfeeder Dropper replacement Switch (you need a different switch for 223 than for other calibers) - $7.45
- Mr.Bulletfeeder 12V DC Power Supply - $19.95
Optical Switch (Group B) all parts are available from Amazon (approx. $41.18 total):
- ThreeBulls 12 Pieces 5.5mmx2.1mm DC Power Jack Female Panel Mount Connector (ASIN: B01N8VV78D) - $6.99
- Aoyoho 12pcs Car Truck Rocker Round Toggle LED Switch On-Off Control, Blue, Green, Yellow, Red(12V 20A) (ASIN: B01GLIPEGY) - $6.35
- uniquegoods 1803BKW 1.8v 3v 5v 6v 7.2v 12v 2A 30W DC Motor Speed Controller (PWM) Adjustable Driver Switch (ASIN: B00RYKR83Q) - $5.98
- DC 12V Car Led Light Control Photoresistor Plus Relay Module Light Detection Sensor (make sure to get one with the photoresistor on a wire lead) ASIN: B01M67V8AQ - $6.99
- Daykit 10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable, 12V 5A 2.1mm x 5.5 mm Male & Female Connectors for CCTV Security Camera and Lighting Power Adapter (ASIN: B07PS8T2KM) - $7.99
- Rasalas LED Bulbs，1 Pack (30 Bulbs) 5mm 12V DC LED Pre-Wired Round Top Bulb Lamp for DIY Car Boat Toys Parties (White, 5MM) (ASIN: B07QDL21BX) - $6.88
3D printed parts:
Almost everything is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2504314 this includes all the major parts you will need for the main feed assembly.
Parts that I used, which are included in this file:
bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_double_slide.stl
bf_v2_base_WH120_ET-ZGMP38_MBF.stl
bf_v2_collator_plate_223.stl
bf_v2_drop_tube_light_barrier_id6.0mm_small_spring.stl
bf_v2_flipper_v2.stl
Also be sure to check out the wiring_schematic.pdf for information on how to wire up the controller. The print settings for these parts are as follows (from the thingiverse page):
Rafts: Doesn't Matter
Supports: Yes
Resolution: 0,15 mm or higher resolution
Infill: 80% or more!
Notes:
Support depends on the part.
Base and collator plates can be printed without support.
Layer Height 0.2 or less
Shell thickness .8 for Wall and bottom/top
Infill Density 40-50% for base
Infill Density 80% or more für collator plates
Wall Count: 4
Generate support: off
build plate adhesion type: brim
brim width: 6 mm or 8 mm
Recommended filament temp for PLA - see spool
Recommended bed temp for PLA is 65-70 °C.
cooling: enabled
retraction: enabled
speed: depends on printer and used material
The control box I used to house the electronics is located here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3520214 and holds all the parts I listed. Although not required, you can purchase some wire loom (Amazon ASIN: B07K1XC8XV) to dress is up and make it look pretty. Instead of using the spring adapters in the original “thing” I used the quick change ones located here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207921/files you only need the files named “chute_adapter_new.stl” “large_spring_adapter.stl” and “small_spring_adapter.stl”
Mounting
This is an area I feel all the instructions I found are lacking, and I came up with my own solution using one of the included mounts (bf_v2_mount_3_4_inch_squared_), and some ¾ inch aluminum square tubing.
I think I covered everything (though I may have been vague, and for that I am sorry) if I have missed anything, or if you need clarification please let me know and I will do my best to clear it up. I am running this on a Hornady LnL AP (and will be running on an XL750 soon), but this setup can likely be adapted to any progressive press.
