Gunsmithing DIY Bed Job**Pic Heavy***

7mmRM

7mmRM

Full Member
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 2, 2004
3,503
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Celestine, Indiana
#1
I promised a fellow 'Hide member that I would give him a pictorial on bedding. Thought I would post it in case it could help someone else.

1st- Here are the stuff you need-
Clamp- I usea Irwin Quick Grip, couple of flat-blade screwdrivers, razor blade, Devcon Steel putty, plumbers putty or modelling clay, duct tape, blue masking tape, rubber mallet. Im using Marine Grease a release agent, but thier are many other things you can use. Long screws in the same thread pitch as the action screws.
101_0258.jpg


Next- Prep stock for bedding. Granted this is a HS stock, but a pillared MCM or Manners is done the same way. This stock was previously bedded, I removed all old bedding, made a few craters for mechanical locks. Blue masking tape around the action perimeter.
101_0259.jpg

101_0260.jpg

101_0261.jpg

Next- get the long action screws. Wrap duct tape or making tape around them till they have a tight fit in the action screw holes.This will make them center in the holes, thus centering your action when you drop it in.*** <span style="font-weight: bold">Normally I will bed the bottom metal in first, with tape on action screws to "center", then bed action the same way I posted. In this instance, I checked the bottom metal with tape and such and seemed to me to be in line with each other. Hence the route I took. </span>***
101_0262.jpg

101_0264.jpg

Next- Prep action-
Tape off front, side and bottom of recoil lug. I used one layer of duct tape.*** I do this on a factory lug, on a tapered fat lug I put a layer of duct tape on only the bottom& front of the lug*** Note the tape on the BBL, that is so I wont have a pad that touches the bbl. I dont put pads on high volume shooting rifles like this one...Its a pdog rifle.
101_0267.jpg

101_0268.jpg

I then place the action in the stock and put tape on the exposed part of the action, flush with the stock-
101_0265.jpg

101_0266.jpg

Put some modelling clay in the trigger pin holes and some in the trigger opening. I dont put tons in, but you can if you want.
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Next- Apply release agent, I used Marine grease as release agent, It works fine for me, but thier are tons of other release agents out there. Put it on anything you dont want the compound to stick to.
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Next- Mix up some bedding compound. I used Devocn steel.
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Apply it to the stock-
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Put long action screws in screw holes-
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Next your almost ready to drop in the action. Place something in the bbl cahnnel so the action doesnt just fall in.
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Set the action in the compound, as you are doing this line up action screws. Get them threaded into the action or at least started. Remove the "somthing" that you put in the BBL channel.Take clamp open it up, center it on the action(center of ejection port), and clamp it down. Dont He-Man it, but good and solid. Screw the action s screws in a good bit farther.*** <span style="font-weight: bold">I agree with you completely that if one is not careful you could put some serious stress where it is not needed. The pressure on that clamp is no more than if you were holding it dowm with your hands. In talking with Randy, one of his concerns with this method was the bbl just hanging there unsupported. I have never experienced a problem, but could easliy see how it could, especially with a heavier bbl. His suggestion was this-<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HateCA</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Even with the clamp method try clamping the barreled action into a barrel vise with it upside down after you drop in into the stock. This will still help with the pressure the weight that the barrel is trying to put onto the front of the bedding job.

Because the barrel is so heavy in the front this can put more pressure to the front no matter how tight the screws are. If you turn it over there is no weight pressing down onto the stock.

</div></div> If no vise is available, I would think a some tape or business cards to support the bbl woud suffice, but be careful not to cause upward pressure on the bbl.</span>***
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Remove excess compound the oozed out with small flatblade screwdriver.
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Now all you need to do is wait til it cures for at least 3hrs, before removing the action. Im gonna wait till after work so it will be later tonight 6-8hrs. I will take more pics then and post them in the AM.
 
#2
Re: DIY Bed Job

Nicely done.....but I think it's time to invest in a new rubber mallet
smile.gif


Great pics, thanks.

For anyone else doing this for the first time, blue tape is your friend, use even more than he did as bedding material can get everywhere that you're not expecting it.

J
 
#6
Re: DIY Bed Job

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 7mmRM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for saying somthing about more tape for first timers, thats a good tip.</div></div>

I am truly speaking from experience and man that stuff is hard the chip off
smile.gif


I didn't use tape above the stock line on the action for my first time, really wish I knew about that tip too.

J
 
#10
Re: DIY Bed Job

Thanks 7mm that is just what I have been looking for, before I did mine.

Question: what do you do if you have don't have a detatchable mag. Is that where the molding clay comes into play?
 
#15
Re: DIY Bed Job

Dan40x,

1. Negative, thats why you use a release agent.

2. A single layer of Duct Tape is about the thickness of 2-3 layers of blue masking tape. Do what you want on the sides/front/bottom, I and MANY people do it this way. I was taught that way, and thats how I do and will continue to do it.

3. Negative, Ive used grease on a multitude of bed jobs less an issue. They all pop out wonderfully and are "rippleless"...

Ive used PAM cooking spray, it sucked.

I tape the lug as do many, if you want to bed it tight, go the fuck ahead.
 
#16
Re: DIY Bed Job

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Torfinn</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for sharing this 7mm, I haven't quite got the cojones up to do this at home yet, but the pictoral kinda makes me feel like I won't have any trouble. </div></div>

Give it a try, its not that hard. If I can help you in any way feel free to ask.
 
#17
Re: DIY Bed Job

So many ways to skin this cat. As for the recoil lug Ive never tried to bed a factory piece but I have done the customs both ways and find that the tape on bottom only is best.

I think your tape on the action is ok but I can see where it could get into the stock line and cause some blems but not anything thats going to foul you up functionaly.

The only thing that I see that is really bad imho is the use of the clamp. The idea of bedding is to provide stress free mating of the stock and action. By using a clamp espescially in the weakest area is only going to induce stress.

I use tape around the barrel in two spots. One at the forend and one about 1-2" out from the action. The idea is to ad layers of tape at each point until the action "hanges" in the stock just as though it were bedded.

I then do a three stage pour but you could do a single pour as you did above. You will have to press it in by hand pressure but thats all. You will still use the screws for alignment but should NOT have any real preassure applied.

I cannot take credit for this technique which I picked up from a very well respected maker of rifles for our military whom most on the hide have heard of. It is the best method I have come accross.

Just constructive crit. Carry on brother.
 
#18
Re: DIY Bed Job

Brut4c,

Tape on the action- Like I noted above the action is sitting in the stock when you do this. You just simple put tape along the stock line. The action wont sit <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">lower </span></span> in the stock when bedding compound is applied.

If the amount of pressure that the clamp is giving, is gonna twist up your action, you have alot of other problems to worry about.

Ive used the clamp method countless times, every time is the same result- a nice stress free bed.
 
#20
Re: DIY Bed Job

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dans40X</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As brut4c mentioned-so many ways to skin a cat.
7mmRM-your bedding is no where near being a professional/stress free bed job.
If you think it is try something-
Install Bbl'd action into stock after bedding cures without action screws-
invert stock & action-when action falls out of stock-try,try again.
I'd mention indicating it-but I know it's way beyond your means.
Floating the lug on a Rem/Clone is not conducive to a proper bedding job.
</div></div>

WTF, are you talking about "floating lug"? The lug is bedded tight on the back side. The front, bottom, and side do not have to be bedded tight for a "propper" bedding job.

Define "professional" for me would you? And then tell me what the fuck it has to do with the situation at hand.

Stress free- Ive never felt the need to "indiacte" a bedding job. Does everybody do that when they bed a rifle? Do you?

As to dumping the action out of the stock, fuck I guess it will fall out if you dump it upside down, being that the lug isnt bedded tight on all sides.

If when I torque both the action screws, the loosend the front one and have no movement between the bbl and bbl channel at the end of the stock, thats good enough. If there is, well time for the Dremel.

I tell you what O'Stock bedding God, hows about you do a pictoral for us all, since you seem to fucking know everything.
 
#21
Re: DIY Bed Job

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dans40X</div><div class="ubbcode-body">7mmRM-your bedding is no where near being a professional/stress free bed job.
</div></div>

I'm going to go with 7RM on this one, not saying his is the only or the best way, but those who claim to know the best on this site are usually willing to educate us with their knowledge.

So, I too would respectfully like to ask that you, Dans40X, do your own post describing and showing with pics the proper way to do a "professional/stress free bed job".

Let me know if you need help posting pics because I truly would like to learn and will help in any way that I can to get this info available to the members here.

Jason
 
#23
Re: DIY Bed Job

7mm many people do completely bed the lug and a tapered lug is easier to remove after bedding. Important question is if your gun shoots good after you bedded it than you did a good job. I have had to rebedd one of my guns years ago that was bedded by a so called "professional" and who was a palma team shooter. I won't mention his name MEDESHA oops
shocked.gif
 
#24
Re: DIY Bed Job

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dans40X</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As brut4c mentioned-so many ways to skin a cat.
7mmRM-your bedding is no where near being a professional/stress free bed job.
If you think it is try something-
Install Bbl'd action into stock after bedding cures without action screws-
invert stock & action-when action falls out of stock-try,try again.
I'd mention indicating it-but I know it's way beyond your means.
Floating the lug on a Rem/Clone is not conducive to a proper bedding job.
</div></div>

Taping the lug is a common practice and the only contact the lug will with the stock is the back side. This is normal. Some will bed the entire lug for a tight fit. Some will even glue in the action. What will screw with accuracy more in a Remington is having the bottom of the lug touching. If it does, this can cause upward pressure on the lug when you torque the action screws. This can screw with accuracy, not always but it can.

Pam cooking spray is crap for a release agent. In fact with some bedding compounds it won't work at all.

If the tape has been coated with release agent the bedding won't absorb or stick. I have seen bedding compound stick to tape but never absorbed into it.

7MM has done some things that I don't do but then again I do lots of bedding jobs. Some of the things he has done are done all the time in a bedding job.

I didn't see where 7MM said this was a professional bed job. I think he said "DIY bed". Some things a "professional" would do is just not practical for a do it yourselfer.
 
#25
Re: DIY Bed Job

I understand why he beds the factory lugs the way he does I think. As I said before I have never bedded a factory however I can see where one could run into a problem if the factory lug was bent, had negative angles or burs. You would definitley have a stuck action if you bedded it tight like you would on a custom oversize lug.

In most shooting disciplines Im not certain it matters how you bed your lug as long as you have space at the bottom and are tight on the back side. That being said I think an oversized lug bedded all around except on bottom is essential to maintaining zero in a hard use environment.

As to indicating the bedding job I have messed with it a little but honestly I am not sure who, how or why they came up with the .002 not less not more idea. They say if you have less its to tight and more your to loose. Can anyone out there splain this to me ?

 
#26
Re: DIY Bed Job

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MAGUA</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Important question is if your gun shoots good after you bedded it than you did a good job. </div></div>

I agree 100%
 
#27
Re: DIY Bed Job

7mmRM,

Again I look forward to seeing the end results, After Talking to Randy(HateCa) last week and now seeing others post pics for some of us that want to DIY I'm going to attempt to try this. Thanks again for the pictorial.
 
#28
Re: DIY Bed Job

Damn It Isaac!

Where were you two years ago when I tried my first, and only
frown.gif
Didnt go so good
smile.gif


Have been scared ever since, I might try it again after reading your write-up. Very nice!

Respectfully,
Julian
 
#29
Re: DIY Bed Job

For those who have not had the nuts to try this or have and failed. Ill say this.

When in doubt use more release agent.

For the first run put release agent on every metal surface from muzzle to rear tang. inside and out especially chamber and bolt recesses.

triple check and checkagain that you have filled all nooks and crannies with clay.

I suggest marinetex for the first timer as I think it is easier to work with.

If you have done these things you will not stick your action. I you get the action set and there is compound everywhere and your thinking oh shit! just do your best to get the action straight and LEAVE IT AlONE except for external cleanup with qtips or whatever. If you get compound in the bolt recess through the screw hole DONT TOUCH IT. If you sprayed release agent in there it will pop right out once cured.

As long as your action comes out after cure your GTG. You can always remove compound from the stock if you want to retry. Dont sweat small air pockets they are not going to make a functional difference. Rems are easy in this regard.

If your edges are rough use a fine file and file AWAY from bedding.

The only hard fix is a stuck action. Clay and release agent. Clay and release agent! Oh I almost forgot CLAY AND RELEASE AGENT.

7RM It may be helpful to others to post some after cured pics of what to expect.
 
#30
Re: DIY Bed Job

I recently finished my first one. It went well but haven;'t got a chanec to shoot it yet. The only thing is I used modeling clay or playdoh on the barrel side of the lug for a dam and put the clay in the trigger area in front of the rear tang. The action and barrel squished teh clay down and the bedding oozed over the top of it. It worked and I trimmed it out after the fact but how do you guys get such nice clean vertical lines where the bedding ends after the lug etc?

 
#32
Re: DIY Bed Job

If you put tape in the bottom of the bbl channel where you want the end of your compound and use SHARP tools you can do a decent job as well. I have always had best luck letting the compound run where it will.
 
#34
Re: DIY Bed Job

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: brut4c</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
7RM It may be helpful to others to post some after cured pics of what to expect.
</div></div>

Brut4c,

Will do, I allready popped it out. Looks great. Will have pics when I get to work in the AM, dial up sucks.
 
#35
Re: DIY Bed Job*** POPPED OUT w/ Pics****

I had a converstion with HateCA last night and he gave a few pointers and reminded me of some information that I knew and did, but left out. Those are in the original post in <span style="font-weight: bold">BOLD </span>.

Anyway on to the bedding job, I popped it out, it came out nicely, no ripples/waves of any kind..... Ground all the excess off. Now to let it set till I get home from work(36hrs) before I torque it down and mount scope, etc.


I fixed where the paint or whatever came off with the tape.Here are the better pics-
101_0297.jpg

101_0299.jpg

101_0287.jpg
 
#39
Re: DIY Bed Job*** POPPED OUT w/ Pics****

Went home for a late lunch and decided to just assemble the rifle- 33 cure hours..

Since the rifles owner wants to shoot 75Amaxes, we went with a 223 mag box that I modded for my 223AI, before I went with the M5 DBM.
101_0289.jpg

Next mounted rings, touched them with a lapping bar to make sure of no burs and such. Mounted the Leupold MK4 M1 4.5.x14x50. The feeler gauge method is so easy, its like cheating.
101_0291.jpg

The finnished product-
101_0322.jpg
 
#41
Re: DIY Bed Job*** POPPED OUT w/ Pics****

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: powderBurnz</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any special notes or exceptions to this when putting in a Badger M5?

</div></div>

Nope. Just make sure you do what I added in the first post-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 7mmRM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This will make them center in the holes, thus centering your action when you drop it in.*** Normally I will bed the bottom metal in first, with tape on action screws to "center", then bed action the same way I posted. In this instance, I checked the bottom metal with tape and such and seemed to me to be in line with each other. Hence the route I took. *** </div></div>
 
#46
Re: DIY Bed Job**Pic Heavy***

Reading this made me recall making molds using fiberglass resins etc., which we used Car wax as a releasing agent (I believe carnuba?). It was not the liquid kind but more of the paste style. Another thing that worked well instead of tape was seran wrap (sp.?) , the kind that is used to cover food before placing in refrigerator. It was thinner than tape which made the gap between resin and item being molded tighter. Im not saying any of this is a better way, I was just wondering if this might work? I have to say THANK YOU for sharing your knowledge and time to post all this, some of us really need the visual aid to understand how to do this correctly.
 
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