Hornady one shot is used to glue rifle cases into reloading dies.
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I've felt that reality. Stuck so bad I had to send the die back to Hornady.
Hornady One Shot has become the WD40 of the gun world. I don’t really get why people love it so much; it’s pretty much never the best product for anything, and very few of us are so poor that we need a single can of that stuff instead of buying a selection of better products.
It sucks for reloading.
It sucks for bedding.
It sucks as a lubricant.
It sucks for rust prevention.
But we hear about people here with multi-thousand dollar rifles reaching for One Shot for various uses rather than something made for the job.
It sucks for reloading.
It sucks for bedding.
It sucks as a lubricant.
It sucks for rust prevention.
But we hear about people here with multi-thousand dollar rifles reaching for One Shot for various uses rather than something made for the job.
That’s exactly why I tried it. Just kept seeing people mention it so I figured it would be the right thing to use. I was drawn to the idea of an aerosol to eliminate the possibility of missing a nook or cranny with wax. All is fine now so I’ll call it a learning experience, but after spaying on the LRI stuff it was clear that it is a superior product for the job.Hornady One Shot has become the WD40 of the gun world. I don’t really get why people love it so much; it’s pretty much never the best product for anything, and very few of us are so poor that we need a single can of that stuff instead of buying a selection of better products.
It sucks for reloading.
It sucks for bedding.
It sucks as a lubricant.
It sucks for rust prevention.
But we hear about people here with multi-thousand dollar rifles reaching for One Shot for various uses rather than something made for the job.
I use kiwi neutral shoe polish as a release agent. Never a problem and it's cheap.
JMO but - is that really a good criteria for choosing a release agent when you're taking a risk on gluing thousands of dollars of rifle and stock together? I'm not saying Kiwi doesn't work, but "it's cheap" is the same reason so many people use WD40, duct tape, and Hornady One Shot on things they shouldn't. Just seems like a questionable mindset to me, but gun owners as a whole do seem to have an obsession with cheapness.
By that logic the lithium "gun grease" in the tiny tube for $10 is better than regular multipurpose auto parts store lithium grease in the jar for $10 just because it says it's for use on firearms. People have used kiwi paste shoe polish for decades, it's proven, and I haven't seen a single issue with its use as a release agent anywhere. Automotive car wax has been used for decades as well.
Those are good reasons to choose something. “Because it’s cheap” is not one of them.
Johnson’s paste wax on the action and barrel everywhere the epoxy with touch worked great for me. Even on the actions screws or anything that the bedding material can get on. Polish the wax in like polishing a car, let dry and remove excesss, they wax it again and remove. Better safe than sorry. Robert Gradous covers that in his videos. Watch the Robert Gradous videos on FB. Or Nathan Foster bedding videos or Ryan Pahl on YT. Lots of good videos that go into detail. Avoid grease as it leaves streaks in the bedding, lots of videos on YouTube show they used grease and how ugly the bedding looked.
If you used marine Tex you can just grind it all out with a dremel.
Wd40 works great in removing the excess epoxy, and molding clay in the mag cut of the action and trigger area blocks the epoxy from seeping in and creating a mechanical lock.
Electrical tape of any tape can be used to block those areas off since that part of the action doesn’t get bedded anyway. Tape the outside edge around the recoil lug with electrical tape or painters tape not the face or the rear. This will give you some space to remove the action. Also wax the recoil with the tape so it all pops out easily.
If you used marine Tex you can just grind it all out with a dremel.
Wd40 works great in removing the excess epoxy, and molding clay in the mag cut of the action and trigger area blocks the epoxy from seeping in and creating a mechanical lock.
Electrical tape of any tape can be used to block those areas off since that part of the action doesn’t get bedded anyway. Tape the outside edge around the recoil lug with electrical tape or painters tape not the face or the rear. This will give you some space to remove the action. Also wax the recoil with the tape so it all pops out easily.
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