During the first Obama gun scare, I started making my own AR parts since they were hard to find. One of the most benificial parts contrived was the free float handguard, since most similar ones were over $200 if they could be found at all.
The homemade ones end up around $50 with a full length top rail.
Tools Used:
1932 South Bend 10" lathe
Hand Drill
Dremel
Materials:
Filament Wound carbon fiber tube, 1.875" O.D. from here>
Filament Wound Carbon Tubing - Carbon Fiber Filament - Rock West Composites
Top Rail Blank From here>
12" x .40" Uncut Blank Rifle Picatinny Rail Mount for Handyman or Gunsmith : Amazon.com : Sports & Outdoors
Scrap peice of 2" diameter aluminum bar stock, 3-5" long.
8-32 button head torx from granger.
Construction:
First I turn a very simple barrel nut out of the aluminum bar stock. The ID of the bbl nut matches a mil-spec, or you can use the upper for you measurements. The OD can be done several ways, I prefer a step up for the back of the carbon fiber tube to but against. I also like knurling, which I dont have on the two shown. Turn the forward section of your barrel nut to where the carbon tubing is a tight fit.
I also turn a small ring that snaps in the front to protect the front of the carbon tube from chipping, and also to give it a cleaner look. I have never thought to take step by step pics, but I will when I do the next one for an LR308.
Slip the barrel into the upper and install your new barrel nut. Tighten it down and mark where the gas tube will go through. Remove and drill a hole for the tube, or if you use smaller diameter tube, like on the lefty upper below, just cut/file a slot for the tube to ride on top of the nut. I like this because I have smaller hands and appreciate the smaller diameter.
I then put all the peices together and drill a hole pattern around the barrel nut with the CF tube installed, then tap them. Install the 8-32's to lock the handguard on to the barrel nut.
Index the top rail (if you even want it) and clamp it in place. Drill and tap the rail/hg and attach. I usually use a little epoxy between the rail and handguard too, because I would hate to have an attached optic fall off under recoil.
I coat the aluminum parts in black molyresin too, because I dont like shiny. The pic of the perferated one below is before I coated the protective ring on the end.
One is a lefty upper in .300 BLK with a 16" SS barrel, which I have no use for since I'm right handed. I just happened to have a Stag upper and BCG, so why not?
The other is an LAR Grizzly side charge upper, with a 7" .300 BLK barrel, and a permanently attached shroud that matches the HG so that there is no need for an SBR stamp (on that particular one anyway). An AAC Cyclone protrudes about an inch.
The homemade ones end up around $50 with a full length top rail.
Tools Used:
1932 South Bend 10" lathe
Hand Drill
Dremel
Materials:
Filament Wound carbon fiber tube, 1.875" O.D. from here>
Filament Wound Carbon Tubing - Carbon Fiber Filament - Rock West Composites
Top Rail Blank From here>
12" x .40" Uncut Blank Rifle Picatinny Rail Mount for Handyman or Gunsmith : Amazon.com : Sports & Outdoors
Scrap peice of 2" diameter aluminum bar stock, 3-5" long.
8-32 button head torx from granger.
Construction:
First I turn a very simple barrel nut out of the aluminum bar stock. The ID of the bbl nut matches a mil-spec, or you can use the upper for you measurements. The OD can be done several ways, I prefer a step up for the back of the carbon fiber tube to but against. I also like knurling, which I dont have on the two shown. Turn the forward section of your barrel nut to where the carbon tubing is a tight fit.
I also turn a small ring that snaps in the front to protect the front of the carbon tube from chipping, and also to give it a cleaner look. I have never thought to take step by step pics, but I will when I do the next one for an LR308.
Slip the barrel into the upper and install your new barrel nut. Tighten it down and mark where the gas tube will go through. Remove and drill a hole for the tube, or if you use smaller diameter tube, like on the lefty upper below, just cut/file a slot for the tube to ride on top of the nut. I like this because I have smaller hands and appreciate the smaller diameter.
I then put all the peices together and drill a hole pattern around the barrel nut with the CF tube installed, then tap them. Install the 8-32's to lock the handguard on to the barrel nut.
Index the top rail (if you even want it) and clamp it in place. Drill and tap the rail/hg and attach. I usually use a little epoxy between the rail and handguard too, because I would hate to have an attached optic fall off under recoil.
I coat the aluminum parts in black molyresin too, because I dont like shiny. The pic of the perferated one below is before I coated the protective ring on the end.
One is a lefty upper in .300 BLK with a 16" SS barrel, which I have no use for since I'm right handed. I just happened to have a Stag upper and BCG, so why not?
The other is an LAR Grizzly side charge upper, with a 7" .300 BLK barrel, and a permanently attached shroud that matches the HG so that there is no need for an SBR stamp (on that particular one anyway). An AAC Cyclone protrudes about an inch.
