DMR 0 distance

[Nightbeast]

I was looking at a ballistics table (https://snipersnest.tripod.com/index-12.html) when something interesting came to me. For a DMR style rifle, why not zero at 400-500 yards?

I know it might sound silly, but with a 400 yard zero, you could shoot a 36" target out to 600 yards just by adjusting your point of aim on the target (aim center, top quarter, or bottom quarter). That gives you just 3 point of aim values to get you center hits out to 600 yards without using radical holds or dialing distances.

 

[Gustav7]

Sounds like a solution to problem that doesn't exist.

With that zero, making 100-200yd shots would be annoying, let alone 50yds.
According to my strelok app, if I set my SPR to 400yd zero, I would have to go:
2 mils down for 50yds
2.2 mils down for 100yds
1.8 mils down for 200yds
1.0 mils down for 300yds...
zeroed at 400yds
up for everything past 400yds

You're essentially just reversing the entire reticle in your scope, with basically no benefit. In theory longer shots should be afforded more time, therefore more "prep" to make the shot (holdover/dial/fundamentals). Shorter shots should be quicker, but at a 400yd zero, you're just making it complicated beyond what it needs to be.

With a 100yd zero, I would go:
0.3 mils up for 50yds
zeroed at 100yds
0.4 mils up for 200yds
1.2 mils up for 300yds

From 0-200yds, I'm within 0.4mils of the crosshair...which is obviously the most natural point of aim as you look through the scope. EVERY single adjustment with a 100yd zero is in the same direction (not the case with 400).

Not to mention, if you're shooting at a 36" target a 600yds, then....you should get a smaller target.

 

[Bender]

 

[TheGerman]

Because DMR distances are often 100-200 yards and you don't want to be doing some weird negative hold.

Shooting out of a storm drain while having a negative hold is fucking retarded. You're also going to run into weird offset to barrier issues. Additionally, keep the 'system' the same throughout carbine, DMR and precision gun. The last thing I need to do is to remember what scope does what differently than the other one; its basically why I bought an MRAD and all my DMR guns are the exact same zero.

You're going to have to dial/hold at some point. Just keep it simple and stop overthinking it.

 

[Aftermath]

Think about this...if your buddy needs to pick up your weirdly zeroed rifle to continue to defend everyone (you included), will he know to hold under at the guy at 50 yards spraying your position with his AK?

 

[usafa77]

aim center, top quarter, or bottom quarter)

by aiming at a quarter of the target you greatly reduce your margin of error.

 

[wade2big]

Sounds like a solution to problem that doesn't exist.

With that zero, making 100-200yd shots would be annoying, let alone 50yds.
According to my strelok app, if I set my SPR to 400yd zero, I would have to go:
2 mils down for 50yds
2.2 mils down for 100yds
1.8 mils down for 200yds
1.0 mils down for 300yds...
zeroed at 400yds
up for everything past 400yds

You're essentially just reversing the entire reticle in your scope, with basically no benefit. In theory longer shots should be afforded more time, therefore more "prep" to make the shot (holdover/dial/fundamentals). Shorter shots should be quicker, but at a 400yd zero, you're just making it complicated beyond what it needs to be.

With a 100yd zero, I would go:
0.3 mils up for 50yds
zeroed at 100yds
0.4 mils up for 200yds
1.2 mils up for 300yds

From 0-200yds, I'm within 0.4mils of the crosshair...which is obviously the most natural point of aim as you look through the scope. EVERY single adjustment with a 100yd zero is in the same direction (not the case with 400).

Not to mention, if you're shooting at a 36" target a 600yds, then....you should get a smaller target.

You could round those numbers to speed things up.
Zero - 100
.5 - 200
1 - 300
1.5 - 400

No need to remember the .1 and .2 unless you are shooting gnats or getting way out there.

 

[308pirate]

I was looking at a ballistics table (https://snipersnest.tripod.com/index-12.html) when something interesting came to me. For a DMR style rifle, why not zero at 400-500 yards?

I know it might sound silly, but with a 400 yard zero, you could shoot a 36" target out to 600 yards just by adjusting your point of aim on the target (aim center, top quarter, or bottom quarter). That gives you just 3 point of aim values to get you center hits out to 600 yards without using radical holds or dialing distances.

Winter is over. Time to stop day dreaming weird shit for posting on snipershide and time to get to the range and start shooting.

 

[Gustav7]

You could round those numbers to speed things up.
Zero - 100
.5 - 200
1 - 300
1.5 - 400

No need to remember the .1 and .2 unless you are shooting gnats or getting way out there.

Was just quoting what Strelok had for my inputs, thats all. In practice, do something similar

 

[Cjwise5]

I recommend a 36 Yard zero on a 5.56 AR style DMR rifle. If you look at the ballistics chart, this will be zero at 36 and zero again at 300 yards. That's combat effective inside most DMR engagement distances. Then look at your inches of drop for 400y and I think you'll find that a "top of head" hold will still be a low center of mass hit.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

36 yard zeros work great for red dots and irons, however in the context of magnified optics that typically get used on DMR's I don't see the point in using that over a simple 100 yard zero. Unless I had to zero at a closer distance to get a BDC to line up with my ammunition, the 100 yard zero is what I use. I mean I can dial on my 300 yard dope and achieve the same thing as a 36 yard zero and if I don't have time to dial it on for some reason I can simply use the ruler inside the scope for accurate and effective hold overs. Heck, even if I left it on its 100 yard zero and made no adjustments I could get effective hits on target out to 300 by holding dead on to about 200 yards, shoulder line for about 250, and top of the head for 300 yards, effectively dropping them all into the A-zone.

 

[Cjwise5]

multiple ways to skin the same cat.
36y zero works best for red dots or fixed low power optics like 3x or 4x ACOGs. Maybe even LPVO's.
I personally would prefer a 100 yard zero if I'm running an optic with more magnification and hold over lines. Not BDC's though...those suck balls, always.
To me it's really mission and skillset specific.
CQB distances to running gunfight in a city street distances (couple hundred yards) I would run a short barreled AR with a red dot and I'd zero it to 36 yards.
Providing overwatch for that same gunfight in a city... I'd run an LPVO or something with slightly more magnification, and I'd zero it at 100 and would probably not dial for shots, but use holdovers.
I think knowing your weapon system and being trained to use it efficiently kind of trumps all.