Does brass case brand really matter?

[CZp-01]

I've been loading with Hornady brass for 6.5cm. I've read and seen a lot of people suggest or use Alpha, Lapua, Peterson and others. Do you really see a big difference in accuracy for the PRS sport? What about case life?

I'm only four firings into my cases and I anneal after every third firing. Curious what others have to say and what your experience has been?

Thanks

 

[Dthomas3523]

Yes, there can be a wide variance between brands. Neck thickness/taper, case capacity, brass life, hardness of brass, etc etc.

You can do things like neck turning to reign those variances in a bit. But you can’t change the hardness or case capacity.

 

[CZp-01]

Yes, there can be a wide variance between brands. Neck thickness/taper, case capacity, brass life, hardness of brass, etc etc.

You can do things like neck turning to reign those variances in a bit. But you can’t change the hardness or case capacity.

Thanks,
I understand/knew those things you mentioned. Have you used different brands and noticed a difference in case life or accuracy?

 

[Dthomas3523]

Thanks,
I understand/knew those things you mentioned. Have you used different brands and noticed a difference in case life or accuracy?

Case life yes. Accuracy not as much. But I tend to neck turn and such. So that evens things out in that department.

 

[supercorndogs]

Accuracy has more to do with finding the correct load. Brass life can be effected by many things. The higher end brass if fairly well known for being tougher and more consistent, but it is far from indestructible. Chasing velocity, and over bumping shoulders can ruin it quickly as well. It hurts a lot less to trash cheap brass. I don't think its a bad idea for new reloads to cut their teeth on cheaper brass.

 

[spife7980]

Good brass is just plain easier to work with. When inconsistencies in the brass aren’t present you find less inconsistencies in working with the brass. Some brands fit a particular chamber better than others too.

 

[CZp-01]

Accuracy has more to do with finding the correct load. Brass life can be effected by many things. The higher end brass if fairly well known for being tougher and more consistent, but it is far from indestructible. Chasing velocity, and over bumping shoulders can ruin it quickly as well. It hurts a lot less to trash cheap brass. I don't think its a bad idea for new reloads to cut their teeth on cheaper brass.

Thanks,
Just a lil insight using Hornady brass, 140 Eldm 42.1gr H4350 2730FPS. Shoots .5-.6 at 500yds.
***Edit*** 24" barrel

I FL resize everytime and bump the shoulder .020. Do you think that is overworking the brass?

 

[spife7980]

If you are going .020 instead of .002 then yes, you are over working your brass 10x.

 

[supercorndogs]

Thanks,
Just a lil insight using Hornady brass, 140 Eldm 42.1gr H4350 2730FPS. Shoots .5-.6 at 500yds.

I FL resize everytime and bump the shoulder .020. Do you think that is overworking the brass?

LOL if you mean .002 then no. If you mean .02 yes.

 

[CZp-01]

LOL if you mean .002 then no. If you mean .02 yes.

I'm gonna need to recheck my measurement. I have some fired cases I can check vs resizing.
Thank you for that tidbit

 

[Jack Master]

I've had 6.5 creed rounds change 100fps when changing brass mfg. The faster brass was made fron lake city 308 into creed. I think this was due to case capacity. The LC brass looked fuller than the hornady with the same charge. I was shocked to see 100 fps. The LC brass also stretched less than the hornady brass.

 

[CZp-01]

I've had 6.5 creed rounds change 100fps when changing brass mfg. The faster brass was made fron lake city 308 into creed. I think this was due to case capacity. The LC brass looked fuller than the hornady with the same charge. I was shocked to see 100 fps. The LC brass also stretched less than the hornady brass.

I have read that can/will happen with different brass. I'm looking to see what kind of case life I can get out of the Hornady. Wether to justify using a more expensive brand for more case life.

 

[supercorndogs]

When you change brands of brass, you need to do load development again. The capacity of different brands of brass is different. Some will make much more pressure with the same charge of powder.

 

[Steel head]

I’ve had some amazing results with cheaper brass But I did do work on it.
For another rifle availability dictates expensive brass and it’s been excellent as well

 

[Wheres-Waldo]

You can make cheap brass shoot good, not a problem at all, if you take the time to sort it by weight, turn necks, deburr flash holes, true primer pockets.

The reason shooters will pay more for high end brass isn’t because it’s made out of some magic pixie dust, but because all that work you have to put into cheaper brass is already done.

 

[CZp-01]

@supercorndogs couldn't help but be a lil bothered by the # I gave you. It's actually .003. I feel a lil better now.

 

[Snuby642]

I have noticed hornady brass stretches considerably on first resizing then settles.

 

[CZp-01]

I have noticed hornady brass stretches considerably on first resizing then settles.

How long do you let them go before you trim? I ask cuz I'm wondering if I could trim them a lil shorter than I do. I usually trim when they get to 1.920 or a tad longer. Then I trim to 1.910.

 

[Vargmat]

All you need to know is, that if Lapua brass is available in the caliber you shoot, then you pick Lapua brass.
Accept no substitutes.

 

[Snuby642]

I trim rifle brass to (trim length) every time to be consistant.

Eats up a little time since I don't own a good 3 way trimmer.

My deal is I controll what I can with what I have available to reduce variables.

Note: I have the time available.

 

[CZp-01]

All you need to know is, that if Lapua brass is available in the caliber you shoot, then you pick Lapua brass.
Accept no substitutes.

So, I've been told. Hopefully next time I buy brass I can go this route.

 

[CZp-01]

I trim rifle brass to (trim length) every time to be consistant.

Eats up a little time since I don't own a good 3 way trimmer.

My deal is I controll what I can with what I have available to reduce variables.

Note: I have the time available.

Consistency piece makes sense and controlling what you can. I like it. I use Lyman Trimmer and it is a lil time consuming.

 

[TxWelder35]

So, I've been told. Hopefully next time I buy brass I can go this route.

Lapua brass isn’t the end all beat all. Lots of good American manufacturers also that are as good or better. Peterson, alpha, ADG come to mind

 

[CZp-01]

Lapua brass isn’t the end all beat all. Lots of good American manufacturers also that are as good or better. Peterson, alpha, ADG come to mind

Thanks, That's why I asked stuff adds up quick. I'm happy with what I'm getting from Hornady. I read hear so much about how the brass matters.

I shot a PRS match last weekend. One of the guys in our squad was shooting Lapua and he was losing at least one case per stage. At a buck per might want to mark them up.

 

[TxWelder35]

Thanks, That's why I asked stuff adds up quick. I'm happy with what I'm getting from Hornady. I read hear so much about how the brass matters.

I shot a PRS match last weekend. One of the guys in our squad was shooting Lapua and he was losing at least one case per stage. At a buck per might want to mark them up.

Guy i shoot with has only been using range pick up Hornady 6.5cm And I don’t think he’s at any real disadvantage, and it’s free.99

The brass imo isn’t going to make or break the accuracy of your rifle. I bought Peterson SRP brass to help extend brass life. Hoping to get 20+ loads on it.

Annealing your brass will make more of a difference than brand also

 

[Vargmat]

Yeah, shooting matches will make you loose a few cases. But in the grand scheme of things, is a few lost cases the biggest cost, and thus really an issue?
You have the match fee, driving to and from the venue, food, bullets, powder and primers, and maybe a night or two at some hotel/motel. Will a dozen lost cases really matter?

And to add to what I wrote on Lapua brass. For the last three years I have shot a custom rifle in 6.5x47 Lapua. I had cases that I had reloaded at least 25 times for that rifle, with only miner lenght trimming once or twice. That is something I can not say I have experienced with any other rifle in any other caliber...

 

[CZp-01]

Yeah, shooting matches will make you loose a few cases. But in the grand scheme of things, is a few lost cases the biggest cost, and thus really an issue?
You have the match fee, driving to and from the venue, food, bullets, powder and primers, and maybe a night or two at some hotel/motel. Will a dozen lost cases really matter?

And to add to what I wrote on Lapua brass. For the last three years I have shot a custom rifle in 6.5x47 Lapua. I had cases that I had reloaded at least 25 times for that rifle, with only miner lenght trimming once or twice. That is something I can not say I have experienced with any other rifle in any other caliber...

I'm only at shooting day matches. I understand what you're saying tho. Brass loss is mute compared to the other costs and time incurred.

25x is quite a bit. Do you credit that to the custom rifle/chamber or the Lapua brass? Or the combination of both?

 

[Vargmat]

Well, it was built by a reputable smith. But Lapua does make good stuff, so I guess both.

 

[Steel head]

Well, it was built by a reputable smith. But Lapua does make good stuff, so I guess both.

I currently have Winchester brass with substantially more loadings.
I’d say the loading process is at least as important as the brass.

 

[BenW]

How long do you let them go before you trim? I ask cuz I'm wondering if I could trim them a lil shorter than I do. I usually trim when they get to 1.920 or a tad longer. Then I trim to 1.910.

Until recently I followed the loading manual guidelines for trimming. Sinclair makes chamber length gauges, which can show you how long your actual chamber is, that way you know how much margin you really have against being too long.

SINCLAIR INTERNATIONAL Sinclair Chamber Length Gage | Brownells

The Sinclair Chamber Length Gauges are designed so the handloader can determine the true length of his rifle's chamber when measuring from the bolt face to the end of the chamber's neck. This measurement will tell you how much excess case length y...

www.brownells.com

 

[Dthomas3523]

Thanks, That's why I asked stuff adds up quick. I'm happy with what I'm getting from Hornady. I read hear so much about how the brass matters.

I shot a PRS match last weekend. One of the guys in our squad was shooting Lapua and he was losing at least one case per stage. At a buck per might want to mark them up.

That’s why the new mpa brass catcher isn’t a bad buy at $150. I’ll save that and then some every year in brass.

 

[Dthomas3523]

How long do you let them go before you trim? I ask cuz I'm wondering if I could trim them a lil shorter than I do. I usually trim when they get to 1.920 or a tad longer. Then I trim to 1.910.

If you have a giraud, just set it up to trim to the length you want and trim everytime.

It takes mere minutes to trim 100pcs with a Giraud or henderson.

 

[CZp-01]

Until recently I followed the loading manual guidelines for trimming. Sinclair makes chamber length gauges, which can show you how long your actual chamber is, that way you know how much margin you really have against being too long.

SINCLAIR INTERNATIONAL Sinclair Chamber Length Gage | Brownells

The Sinclair Chamber Length Gauges are designed so the handloader can determine the true length of his rifle's chamber when measuring from the bolt face to the end of the chamber's neck. This measurement will tell you how much excess case length y...

www.brownells.com

Thanks, I didnt even know about this. Short money too. Might pick one up on my next order with them.

 

[CZp-01]

If you have a giraud, just set it up to trim to the length you want and trim everytime.

It takes mere minutes to trim 100pcs with a Giraud or henderson.

I have a Giraud for .223. Unfortunately, he doesn't make a tri-way trimmer for 6.5. Only on his bench top model and it's a lil pricey for me for just two calibers.

 

[CZp-01]

That’s why the new mpa brass catcher isn’t a bad buy at $150. I’ll save that and then some every year in brass.

I saw this on someone's rifle at my last match. Wish I had asked the guy if I could get a better look at it.

 

[Dthomas3523]

I saw this on someone's rifle at my last match. Wish I had asked the guy if I could get a better look at it.

I just got one in. I’m shooting a .22 match tomorrow. But I might throw it on there just to see if it gets in my way at all.

 

[CZp-01]

I just got one in. I’m shooting a .22 match tomorrow. But I might throw it on there just to see if it gets in my way at all.

I'm curious to know that as well. From the quick glance I got of it, it looked like it was compact and well designed.

 

[x_789]

You can make cheap brass shoot good, not a problem at all, if you take the time to sort it by weight, turn necks, deburr flash holes, true primer pockets.

The reason shooters will pay more for high end brass isn’t because it’s made out of some magic pixie dust, but because all that work you have to put into cheaper brass is already done.

You don't do those things on quality brass also?

 

[Wheres-Waldo]

No, I do not.

Unless it’s a tight neck chamber, I load it and shoot it.

I think we’d all see better returns on time invested if we stepped away from the loading bench once our load performs adequately for the task, and spend that time instead on the range.

 

[Foul Mike]

Being an Old Retired Proud Boomer, I shoot a lot, if not daily, several times a week. You can do that when you are retired.
For me longevity is what I look for and I usually loose primer pockets first.
I have not had good luck with Hornady as they loosen up after 4-5 firings if you are lucky.
I have had good luck with Nosler.
Recently I bought some new SIG brass and that has been shit for me. I will start a new thread for that.
I do use some Lapua and it is OK but am going to start using SRP.
I have only been reloading for 50 years so don't know a lot and am always learning.

The one thing that I do know is that brass we used 20 to 40 years ago didn't fail in the primer pockets, we usually had a neck split after many firings, then toss it.
I think that the manufactures used much better brass back then to start off with and now, just like everything else, they put this shit out as cheap as they can and fuck the shooter, he will buy some more. FM

 

[CZp-01]

@Foul Mike only 4-5 firings that isn't good at all. I'm at four now with Hornady brass and my pockets are still tight. I hope I can get a few more than you did.

 

[Wheres-Waldo]

SRP brass, an annealer and medium loads will let you hand quality brass down to your grandchildren. Especially something with a sharper shoulder angle to slow down brass flow and web thinning.

 

[oldfatguy]

You can make cheap brass shoot good, not a problem at all, if you take the time to sort it by weight, turn necks, deburr flash holes, true primer pockets.

The reason shooters will pay more for high end brass isn’t because it’s made out of some magic pixie dust, but because all that work you have to put into cheaper brass is already done.

Well, not exactly. Even premium brass has as much as .002” difference in neck wall thickness around the perimeter of individual cases And all primer pockets are cut by the uniformer. At least drilled flash holes do not have a burr to remove.

OFG

 

[Wheres-Waldo]

OFG,

If I measured .002” variance in the necks at $1 per case, I’d seriously consider packing it up and sending it back. I don’t go through a LOT of brass, but I do check all new cases and rarely have seen a new premium case that bad.

I guess I should have said all that prep work SHOULD already be done on premium brass, by the MFG.

Peterson Select has been awesome for me. 200 cases all +\- .5 gn and less than .0005” variation in the necks.

To be honest, there’s Top 10 PRS shooters using Hornady brass (not sure how much prep work they put into it). I’d imagine if those cases with all sorts of variations still shot 5/8MOA or better, I’d probably just shoot it.

 

[ditter]

If you're using Hornady brass, treat yourself to some Lapua or Norma. You'll never go back.

 

[oldfatguy]

If you're using Hornady brass, treat yourself to some Lapua or Norma. You'll never go back.

loading Lapua 223 & Rem 260 brass. Most of the 223 varies around .001“ neck thickness, the 260 up to .002” on a few. Very few down to .0005” and none perfect. So it all gets neck turned. Primer pockets still very good after 9 firings.

OFG

 

[Tokay444]

In 20 loadings, my Alpha brass in 6.5CM hasn’t grown a single thou.

 

[salks]

I don't know how many firings I have on my lapua SRP 6.5 CM brass. Has to be close to 15. I have about 200 cases. I anneal every time. I have had 4 split necks and the primer pockets are still tight. I doesn't grow, I have found no signs of case separation. It's been in 2 different barrels. Quality brass is worth the extra money in my opinion. One less thing to worry about and if you get more firings its cheaper in the long run.

 

[supraguy88t]

part of the fun is playing with different conbinations. One of my friends buys lapua only uses one type of powder, reloads it only 5 times and shoots accurately past 1500yds with his 6.5. I've got Hornady, Starline and Lapua and can do the same with any of those with different powders. experiment and see if your process and material give you the results you want.

 

[I SHOOT]

I've been loading with Hornady brass for 6.5cm. I've read and seen a lot of people suggest or use Alpha, Lapua, Peterson and others. Do you really see a big difference in accuracy for the PRS sport? What about case life?

I'm only four firings into my cases and I anneal after every third firing. Curious what others have to say and what your experience has been?

Thanks

For my 65 Creedmoor
I use mostly Hornady
When shooting PRS lost brass type of match's they do really good with a little extra prep
I also have a set of lapua SRP that i use in our local f-class match they do give slightly better results with less initial prep