Does my gunsmith suck?

Ohioguy47

Sergeant of the Hide
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Apr 20, 2021
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Hello! I recently had a local gunsmith spin me up a barrel for my first full custom build. It appears that the muzzle crown was poorly done with the initial taper not being concentric. Before i spend all the money on components breaking it in and developing a load, i want to know if this will affect to accuracy. I want this to be a half minute or better gun. Hoping to use your guys experience on whether this is a no go and needs redone or if she's good to shoot. Appreciate the help
 

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I can’t say much as I pay my “gunsmith” with liquor or other random shit but I think it should just be put back in the lathe and cleaned up with files and polished. I bet it will shoot just fine.

Most of the finishing is just to look pretty for pictures.
 
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I can’t say much as I pay my “gunsmith” with liquor or other random shit but I think it should just be put back in the lathe and cleaned up with files and polished. I bet it will shoot just fine.

Most of the finishing is just to look pretty for pictures.
You always have to wonder about the concentricity of the work when the guy can’t even manage the basic details. That’s IDGAF level of work there.
 
You always have to wonder about the concentricity of the work when the guy can’t even manage the basic details. That’s IDGAF level of work there.
Exactly!!! Cutting a decent looking crown is one of the easiest parts of the process. The threads also look pretty crappy. Makes you wonder how much care was put into some of the more detailed parts of the machine work.
 
After zooming in on the phone the crown does look oblong. Kinda weird.

Thread the muzzle break on and see if it threads smooth and if shooting suppressed if definitely check with a rod.

Or you can take it back to him and see what he says.
 
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Was a dremel involved?
More than likely a DeWalt cordless. I'm speculating but that crown looks like it was gone after with a brass crown lapping tool by someone that didn't know what they were doing.

All of that can probably be cleaned up on a lathe without having to chop the barrel back and start over.

@Ohioguy47 Is that a Hawk Hill barrel?
 
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Look up either an 82 or 90 degree multi flute countersink. Machine tool vendors sell them. My guess is that work was done either with a cordless drill or a tail stock that has a bunch of backlash on the feed screw.

-Your muzzle got to star in its own snuff film because of it.

Notice how the outer circumference isn't really round? This is because with a multi flute tool on a garbage setup it is virtually impossible to deliver a consistent feed pressure so that all the flutes engage the material equally. The tool starts to hop on top of the material. When it does engage, it gouges the snot out of it and the circumference goes to hell.

Will it shoot worth a darn? Bullets always tell the truth. Is it up to par? Ask your wallet...

If you'd like it fixed, I'd be happy to help.

C.

Some examples of a single point machined barrel crown.


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Hello! I recently had a local gunsmith spin me up a barrel for my first full custom build. It appears that the muzzle crown was poorly done with the initial taper not being concentric. Before i spend all the money on components breaking it in and developing a load, i want to know if this will affect to accuracy. I want this to be a half minute or better gun. Hoping to use your guys experience on whether this is a no go and needs redone or if she's good to shoot. Appreciate the help

As a rifle builder of both LE and personal hunting firearms, that's poor workmanship and I certainly wouldn't happy with that as a builder.
It does beg for an "explanation" from the builder for sure. & a "redo" IMO.
 
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Hello! I recently had a local gunsmith spin me up a barrel for my first full custom build. It appears that the muzzle crown was poorly done with the initial taper not being concentric. Before i spend all the money on components breaking it in and developing a load, i want to know if this will affect to accuracy. I want this to be a half minute or better gun. Hoping to use your guys experience on whether this is a no go and needs redone or if she's good to shoot. Appreciate the help
100% you got a gomer to thread that. I’d stick an alignment rod in there with the can on and check it before ever pulling the trigger on a live round.

Then I’d find a new smitty…

IMG_5065.jpegIMG_7682.jpeg
 
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1) a crown has almost 0 impact on accuracy.

2) how much did you pay this guy?.....$100-$150 ide say you got what you paid for.

It doesn't look great, but ide at least shoot it before I got upset about it.
No impact? Really. So that’s why it’s just as good to cut the muzzle with a hack saw?

Never heard any gunsmith say that.

OP - take it to a different…real… gunsmith and it can be easily cleaned up. Checking the chamber job this jamoke did would prob be well advised
 
1) a crown has almost 0 impact on accuracy.

2) how much did you pay this guy?.....$100-$150 ide say you got what you paid for.

It doesn't look great, but ide at least shoot it before I got upset about it.
You are correct. Accuracy is dependent on the shooter. Precision is dependent on the equipment. A jacked up crown will negatively affect precision.
 
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It would've been interesting to see a side by side of what the barrel in that article could do if he'd cleaned up the crown post cut, such as cut it down, shoot it ugly, clean up the crown, shoot another group and compare. If there was no significant change to the group size then it'd lend more credence to the belief that the crown doesn't matter all that much.

It's also worth noting that the author goes on to state that the crown can affect accuracy and that there'd be no way he'd do any load development or go to a match with the barrel cut like that, which I imagine are things the OP might like to do with his barrel. The article not withstanding, in the context of the OP's issue, the crown certainly matters.
 
Right....but the point is, even the most fucked up crown is still shooting 1moa with factory ammo.


if you take a rifle with an immaculate crown that shoots .5moa, and give it a slightly wonky crown, it's not going to all of a sudden double your group size......the effect the crown actually has is virtually 0 for all practical purposes.
I disagree
 
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1000% a Dremel was involved somewhere.
No self respecting gunsmith uses a Dremel. The really good ones use a Foredom because Dremels are too slow. If it doesn't have a foot control for speed it isn't a real flexible shaft grinder. I use mine for everything from gunsmithing, to dental work, to tune ups, and in the kitchen.

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Right....but the point is, even the most fucked up crown is still shooting 1moa with factory ammo.


if you take a rifle with an immaculate crown that shoots .5moa, and give it a slightly wonky crown, it's not going to all of a sudden double your group size......the effect the crown actually has is virtually 0 for all practical purposes.
I shot in a smallbore league in Montana for years. One of the best shooters in the league shot an old Winchester 52 in a Freeland stock. Many times I saw him leaning on his rifle with the muzzle on a concrete floor. I asked him one time if he was worried about ruining the crown and his accuracy. His response was "It's what's on the inside of the barrel that matters, not what's on the outside." When I moved to VA he was still shooting that rifle and kicking ass with it.

I was at a high power match one time when my buddy set his rifle on the tailgate of his truck. He was getting his stuff out and some how knocked the rifle off of the tailgate. It landed right on the muzzle and pushed a nice burr into the bore. I cleaned up the burr with a small file and uniformed the opening using a ball bearing and some emory cloth. He won that match, which was not unusual for him to win, but he did it with a rifle that had an emergency repair to the crown. I don't think he ever had the barrel recrowned.

All that being said, the crown in the OP photos sucks.
 
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No self respecting gunsmith uses a Dremel. The really good ones use a Foredom because Dremels are too slow. If it doesn't have a foot control for speed it isn't a real flexible shaft grinder. I use mine for everything from gunsmithing, to dental work, to tune ups, and in the kitchen.

View attachment 8283361
Impressive, but have you figured out how to use it in the bedroom?
 
Asymmetric muzzle blast can definitely have an impact on dispersion, but it's totally dependent on the level of yaw that is induced and how well the bullet recovers from it, though. May or may not materialize as bad groups.

That's most definitely backyard level execution, though.
 


Literally cut with a hacksaw and still putting up ~1moa groups
Same author, same article you just posted.

"If you dig around you can find tests like this one from Shooting Sports USA. While it is worth noting the data set they collected is not included in the article, the author contends that crown damage will affect accuracy. This seems to make sense."

"Am I shooting 1 and 2″ groups? No, but I’m not about to do any load development on this gun. Would I want to take a rifle with these crowns to a match? No way. But it sure is interesting to see how well a tube like this can shoot!"


It would be interesting to have a baseline of a nice crown by which to conduct a test like this and see the results. What I get out of this is there is a point once a crown is jacked up it won't start hitting the streetlights while aiming at the target.

Also, what about 1000yds? Are the jackets "jacked up" enough to make a difference at 1000yds not seen at the 100yd mark?

No way can I conclude from this article that crown condition has no impact on "accuracy" (Precision)

 
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I could certainly be mistaken, but I thought that the main reason for barrel crowns was to clean up and protect the end of the ID of the barrel. Plus they look good. My understanding is that if you can perfectly part the barrel to the desired length, and never bang it into anything, neither of which are guaranteed by a long shot, that a crown would not make it more accurate?
 
If it hasn't already been brought up, you should check if the muzzle threads were indexed off the bore or the OD of the barrel. The bevel of the crown is good indicator of what was done, but not absolute. This will also become apparent if you use a suppressor or certain brakes without checking bore alignment.
 
Genuinely curious,

Is that bevel or whatever you’d call it between the shoulder and threads normal? Most I’ve seen come straight down at base of threads or even have a slight shoulder there. Seems it would create a weak spot thinning the barrel like that if not needed
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