Rifle Scopes Does this look right to you?

Cuzz

Amory Ms
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 29, 2018
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North East Mississippi , near Amory
I just got back from shooting short range. Its 6.5 cm 2650 muzzle v. 130 bergers. its 2 3/8” scope to bore c to c.
At 5x, my 75 yd and 100, look possibly reversed, it was misting when i hurriedly did my testing and its raining now or id just go back and test.
Do you think 75 & 100 are reversed?
thanks if you can help
 

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75 & 100 looks reversed to me on your 5x diagram. Your highest bullet impact should be somewhere around 120-125 yds with a 200 yd zero.

Those are some confusing diagrams to me, even though I see what you are trying to do.

One of the main benefits of a FFP scope you are missing out on. Subtensions remain constant at all mag ranges.

Unless that is for shooting tiny dots, or a .22 squirrel rifle, I don't see the need for knowing exactly where your POI will be at 25, 50, 75, 100, 150, & 200 zero. For deer, a 1.7" crest at 120 yards is still sufficient to hit just about any small/medium/big game except maybe prairie dogs or squirrels.

Just my opinion.
 
Here’s your problem.

200 yard zero.

You’re just gonna confuse yourself.

zero at 100, you should have plenty of elevation in that scope (looks like a NFto get to 1k shooting a 6.5cm.

There is absolutely no reason to zero at 200 with today’s tech
thanks for reply hic28 but there is a great reason for me to zero at 200, that is where i see and shoot most deer. there is absoutely no reason for me to shoot 1000. we have different shooting goals and habits.
 
thanks for reply hic28 but there is a great reason for me to zero at 200, that is where i see and shoot most deer. there is absoutely no reason for me to shoot 1000. we have different shooting goals and habits.

By that logic, most of my shooting is done between 600 and 1200 so my zero should be at 900 so I can confuse the hell out of myself my trying to hold under at anything closer.


Do yourself a favor and try zeroing at 100 and building a dope sheet out to 500 using 10yd increments. it takes 2/10th of a second to dial once you’ve ranged your animal and you won’t have to worry about guessing if your hold is correct, especially if your deer isn’t exactly at 200 every time.

here is an example of 40 degree day with 5400 DA out to 1190. This is with a 100 yard zero. Notice the dope card starts at 200 cause it’s only .2 up from 100. 150yd is .1

100s on the x and 10s on the Y.

640 yards = 3.3

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What hicm28 is telling you is that a 200 yard zero can allow for error in your zero due to large atmospheric changes. The added bonus of 100 yard zero is that all of your drops are below your zero... This has been debated much in the threads as there is an old school train of thought amongst hunters that a longer range zero has some advantage. It is solid advice but in the end you will do what you will do.
 
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What hicm28 is telling you is that a 200 yard zero can allow for error in your zero due to large atmospheric changes. The added bonus of 100 yard zero is that all of your drops are below your zero... This has been debated much in the threads as there is an old school train of thought amongst hunters that a longer range zero has some advantage. It is solid advice but in the end you will do what you will do.
What do you mean by “all your drops are below your zero”?
 
Can you please list what scope and reticle you are using. It sounds like you have some sort of SFP scope with a fairly useless reticle, and are afraid to dial the turrets.

If you zero at 100 yards, every correction in the scope will be in the "up" direction. If the deer are at 200 yards, dial the correct amount, and shoot them. the correction on my 6.5x47 at 200 yards is 0.4 mils. this should be a chip shot. don't overthink it.
 
If you bothered to read my original post, I am not asking for opinions or facts about where to zero, and i posted later that i went back and shot and confirmed that the 75-100 are correct. I am not saying everybody should zero at 200. But i do know that 100 yds is not a magic number.
 
The 2 trees in line with verticle crosshairs are 212 yds, that is where i see the most deer. Sometime i dont have time to adjust turrets. the narrow opening is 100 yds, the lane is about 10 yds wide from shooting house out to 100 yd.
 

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Can you please list what scope and reticle you are using. It sounds like you have some sort of SFP scope with a fairly useless reticle, and are afraid to dial the turrets.

If you zero at 100 yards, every correction in the scope will be in the "up" direction. If the deer are at 200 yards, dial the correct amount, and shoot them. the correction on my 6.5x47 at 200 yards is 0.4 mils. this should be a chip shot. don't overthink it.
He is using a nightforce shv 5-20x56 sfp moar reticle. I can’t remember if the top turret is capped or not. Also he shoots them in the neck and has to be ultra precise.
 
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75 & 100 looks reversed to me on your 5x diagram. Your highest bullet impact should be somewhere around 120-125 yds with a 200 yd zero.

Those are some confusing diagrams to me, even though I see what you are trying to do.

One of the main benefits of a FFP scope you are missing out on. Subtensions remain constant at all mag ranges.

Unless that is for shooting tiny dots, or a .22 squirrel rifle, I don't see the need for knowing exactly where your POI will be at 25, 50, 75, 100, 150, & 200 zero. For deer, a 1.7" crest at 120 yards is still sufficient to hit just about any small/medium/big game except maybe prairie dogs or squirrels.

Just my opinion.
That is need to know info for walking around shooting varmints they can be from 1-700 yards. The real close shots are easy to miss when you can only see a head or less.
 
The 2 trees in line with verticle crosshairs are 212 yds, that is where i see the most deer. Sometime i dont have time to adjust turrets. the narrow opening is 100 yds, the lane is about 10 yds wide from shooting house out to 100 yd.

So leave your scope dialed .2mil. You're talking about roughly 1.5" difference between 100 and 200 yards. 200 yard zeros just add complexity and will certainly add confusion as soon as stress is introduced.
 
you can’t be serious....

What is 3” above the throat? Hint: not the lungs where you should be aiming.


Oh I was waiting for this one. I agree, there is about 1 oz of meat on the entire rib cage. Throw the slug through them and watch them drop.


I've never seen a wounded deer from a lung shot, seen plenty from neck shots.


I zero at 200. I aim dead on from 50-300, hold a mill low for 400. Never missed a lung with that +/- 6"
 
Oh I was waiting for this one. I agree, there is about 1 oz of meat on the entire rib cage. Throw the slug through them and watch them drop.


I've never seen a wounded deer from a lung shot, seen plenty from neck shots.


I zero at 200. I aim dead on from 50-300, hold a mill low for 400. Never missed a lung with that +/- 6"

You must not shoot many animals you have never seen them run from a lung shot.

If you have a steady position and can’t hit a deer in the neck to at least 2 you should probably be at fudds.com. Not Snipershide.
 
@Cuzz
With your 200 yard zero, there is no reason to worry about adjusting holds for the closer in shots. At 75 yards your bullet is only 1.5” high. Anything closer would be even less than that. Your max offset is between 100-125 yards and is 2”.

point and shoot. That 1 1/2” makes zero difference in practice. I shoot deer at the thick part of the neck and never compensate at these close distances. If my scope dials I set it .5 mils (200 yard) and point and shoot. I will hold past that. Never closer.
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@Cuzz
I zero all my scopes that don’t dial or don’t have a milling reticle at 200 yards as you do. My scopes that have a milling reticle like yours, I just zero at 100 yards like the other guys are saying. Either way do not worry about the under 100 yard hold unders. Not necessary even with neck shots
 
You must not shoot many animals you have never seen them run from a lung shot.

If you have a steady position and can’t hit a deer in the neck to at least 2 you should probably be at fudds.com. Not Snipershide.


I've had to shoot 2 in the neck, because they were going to run me down if I didn't and wouldn't turn.

I've just never had one run without lungs.

I'm more taking the side of why are you ignoring the huge vital to aim for a smaller one? It's not a question of hitting it, but things happen in the real world and the largest kill zone is my most ethical one.
 
I've had to shoot 2 in the neck, because they were going to run me down if I didn't and wouldn't turn.

I've just never had one run without lungs.

I'm more taking the side of why are you ignoring the huge vital to aim for a smaller one? It's not a question of hitting it, but things happen in the real world and the largest kill zone is my most ethical one.
I have never shot for lungs, i dont claim to be close to an expert. i have heard many stories of having to track deer when shot behind shoulder. I started out with an ar15, 60 gr to upper center of neck and all went straight down. The little experience ive had shows Me ( obviously not everyone) that a good neck shot is as humane as I can get, head moves to quick).
But as i stated earlier all this has NOTHING to do with “ did i get my 75 & 100 yd backwards. This has taught me not to ask a question here again!

If you think everybody should hear your opinion on where to shoot a deer or where to zero their scope, why not start your on thread on those subjects?
 
I think what people are trying to get across is the 200 yrd and multiple hold under/overs has obviously confused you when you tried to make a shot(s). A 100yrd would only have you holding one direction, much easier to remember under "stress". Its not that your way doesnt work, there are just other ways that are less complicated under stress. You confirmed pretty early on in this thread it was correct, people just trying to help make your life simpler after that was figured out.

personally this is the first I've heard of neck shooting but hey if the deer drops and is done it works for me.
 
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Since we are off topic anyhow. ?

I've just never had one run without lungs.
They run when shot in the vitals way more often then not. Great place to shoot but they will run.

personally this is the first I've heard of neck shooting but hey if the deer drops and is done it works for me.
Here is my shot when it is available. They will drop 99 out of 100. I have a large sample to base this off. It is a CNS shot. Point of front shoulder/base of neck.
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"They never run from neck shots."

Some of you guys are just too fuckn funny.

OP, I am pretty sure you can delete your own threads. Ether the of PM a mod. Invoking them in a prayer to the admins in a post will never be seen.
 
Lots of deer change zip codes when hit in the lungs. I like to shoot meat deer in the face, or back of the head. DTR, or clean miss. Hi wants to track one? Not me. Plus, I'm just color blind enough to have trouble blood trailing a deer. But, if a wall-hanger walks out, I put the bullet behind the shoulder.

My personal opinion is that hold-overs/unders are best reserved for center of mass shots on largish targets. Or, for fast corrections to follow up shots. If you have time to get the range to the target down to 25 yards, you have time to dial. This is doubly true for a SPF scope. Reticle graduations that change with magnification?
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Hey, OP. Don't let the big meanies on this site tell you what to do though. You do you.
 
Lol at the hobby hunters telling people that have shot hundreds or thousands of cull animals and/or manage thousands of acres of hunting leases how they react to different shot placement.
You don’t have to hit spine dead center for the animal to be paralyzed with a super sonic round.

OP don’t be a pussy. It’s not a good look. We have enough cry babies here.
 
Since we are off topic anyhow. ?


They run when shot in the vitals way more often then not. Great place to shoot but they will run.


Here is my shot when it is available. They will drop 99 out of 100. I have a large sample to base this off. It is a CNS shot. Point of front shoulder/base of neck.
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100%. I run the front of the leg up to the top of the back.....come down 1/3rd of torso at scapula/spine.

OP if you have not seen this video it's great....deer will fall like someone pulled the bones out of the body just crumble in their shadow nary even a twitch. I think a lot of folks confuse 'shoulder shot' with the deer's elbow which actually lines up for more of a heart shot.

 
100%. I run the front of the leg up to the top of the back.....come down 1/3rd of torso at scapula/spine.

OP if you have not seen this video it's great....deer will fall like someone pulled the bones out of the body just crumble in their shadow nary even a twitch. I think a lot of folks confuse 'shoulder shot' with the deer's elbow which actually lines up for more of a heart shot.


It doesn't take much to drop a fawn in it's tracks.....
 
I have never shot for lungs, i dont claim to be close to an expert. i have heard many stories of having to track deer when shot behind shoulder. I started out with an ar15, 60 gr to upper center of neck and all went straight down. The little experience ive had shows Me ( obviously not everyone) that a good neck shot is as humane as I can get, head moves to quick).
But as i stated earlier all this has NOTHING to do with “ did i get my 75 & 100 yd backwards. This has taught me not to ask a question here again!

If you think everybody should hear your opinion on where to shoot a deer or where to zero their scope, why not start your on thread on those subjects?

A neck shot is one of my favorites as well. Right below the head. Of course your animal has to be holding still and you have to have a good rest. No tracking needed...

In response to why we don’t start our own thread, once the dogpile starts it’s too fun to stop. We are all too bored and need a little excitement. Don’t take it personal or too serious, it’s all in good fun.
 
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