Don’t f*** up like I did…

#51
Slash0311 said:
View attachment 8131242
Click to expand...
I bought some Chinesium tools one time. They came with a lifetime warrantee, They all broke the first time I used them so I called about the warranty. The guy with an Asian accent said "Just throw them away." I asked him "How about the warranty? It says lifetime." He replies, "When it breaks its lifetime is over, Throw it away." and hangs up. Numbers now blocked. :oops:
 
  • Wow
Reactions: Slash0311
#52
light pressure, in a straight line with the hitch, like a come-along to tree, bollard, ie fixed object. Snap on pe450 air hammer, with a short hammer head bit...vibration is the key to loosen up rust, not violent jerks off angle with a chain. the hitch will walk right out. if the hitch has a blind reciever, pop the rear cap off and hammer from the back, careful to not mushroom the hitch tube edges. Rare occasion, used rosesbud to heat outside the sides and BOTTOM of the reciever tube. Pulled hundreds of these in mn, land of the salt....vibration and a good air hammer are the key.
 
  • Like
Reactions: camocorvette, OlsenG_360, goinghunting and 2 others
#53
redhooker said:
Would also like to mention these effing new aluminum garden hose connections. Within a month galvanicly fused to the hose bib. Within 2 months the hose is rotting to pieces. WTF
Click to expand...
Welcome to your new Chinese disposable Society. If it wears out quickly then it will need to be replaced which creates work for the slaves. Add in super sizing and endless mindless drivel from every direction and it keeps them occupied and docile.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 101st
#54
sirhrmechanic said:
So just a warning for you folks with the big new 2.5” Reese hitches and “sleeve” adapters for your 2” hitches…

I got in a rush last fall and forgot to grease the adapter (steel from tractor supply pos China crap store) and then made the mistake of leaving it in all winter. In the salt. In VT.

Now it’s a little known fact that rust is 9x thicker than the metal it replaces. So .001” of a rust pit = .009” of thick rust bloom. And when Chineseium steel rusts… it is bad.

Anyway, took me 4 hours to get the hitch out (and the adapter.). Penetrating oil, 20 pound sledge, hoking tractor to hitch… torch…. And wedge… all required. $&@€%!!!!!

The had to bead blast the parts and etch prime… so they won’t rust overnight.

So remember to use grease/graphite. Grind the cheap powder coat off before fitting… take the hitch out when not using. Buy the polymer Reese adapters (they don’t last for shit with heavy loads) or get stainless steel adapter and at least only the truck and tow hitch will rust… not the adapter, too.

Just my apocryphal story for the day…. Don’t let this happen to you.

Sirhr
Click to expand...
Don't use graphite, it will increase corrosion around salt and water. More accurate to state that it increases galvanic action, not just simple corrosion.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sirhrmechanic
#55
n2ishun said:
Aww, does junior need a nappy ?

How the fuck do you think the hitch....or hell, the frame of your vehicle is put together ?
You actually think a tightened nut is better connected than 2 fused pieces of metal ?
Well isn't that special ?
Click to expand...


You realize that a nut that big provides thousands of pounds of clamping force, and will never move with a shear load?

And your little Tig weld on the surface will cause cracking in the haz, because to properly "fuse" something that thick, you need to machine a groove most of the way through and build the weld all the way up. If you do fully weld a ball on, you'd need to normalize and then heat treat it. Otherwise it would just bend and distort.


Welding is useful when used properly, as are fasteners. I can see putting a tack on the nut as a security measure, but it's doing nothing for strength.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Redmanss, Yasherka and Eddystone
#56
Jgunner said:
Dissimilar metals. Wanna know something weird? We dont have the same problem at my new house. Not on city water. Not sure if its the water or something to do with being part of the system.
Click to expand...

It's the Flouride...

ripper.jpg
 
  • Like
  • Love
  • Haha
Reactions: W54/XM-388, Im2bent, ZiaHunter and 3 others
#59
roostercogburn98 said:
I made this bitch plug for my wiff a while back View attachment 8131552
Click to expand...

Damn... I hope you didn't tell her it was a Bitch Plug when you gave it to her! I don't think she'd appreciate that!

Sirhr

PS. P-Squared... I Fuck up all the time. Just not at this level of epic! Usually.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Yasherka and roostercogburn98
#61
1682886444070.jpeg

Here, you used the wrong tool! Bet she could have sucked if right off! 👍🤣

Lear Chemical Research Corporation

Lear Chemical Research developing and compounding anti corrosion lubricants and greases, ACF-50, Corrosion Block, Corrosion Block Grease, Rust Block, effectively solving corrosion related problems in the Automotive, Aviation, Industrial, Marine, Motorcycle and Recreational industries.
learchem.com
Use this to preserve or prevent rust. ACF-50. It is not a lubricant but a solution that bounds to the porosity in metal and stops corrosion.
 
#62
Speakin of Chinesium . I needed large metric sockets for machine columns . We work with big stuff and when something comes out of a chuck it can actually knock the column out of alignment .
So got harbor freight large socket set . 3/4 drive breaker bar and ratchet . Tore the 3/4 drive right off of the breaker bar in a year . Guy that used to work with us put a 1 1/4-20 IIRC on a hydraulic tie rod and it hung up before even seated . He put a five foot pipe on it . Got it off . Got the threads with it and turned the ratchet into a fuckin horseshoe .
I'll get a pic tomorrow . Can't believe he didn't break the ratchet mechanism .
 
#63
Alphatreedog said:
Speakin of Chinesium . I needed large metric sockets for machine columns . We work with big stuff and when something comes out of a chuck it can actually knock the column out of alignment .
So got harbor freight large socket set . 3/4 drive breaker bar and ratchet . Tore the 3/4 drive right off of the breaker bar in a year . Guy that used to work with us put a 1 1/4-20 IIRC on a hydraulic tie rod and it hung up before even seated . He put a five foot pipe on it . Got it off . Got the threads with it and turned the ratchet into a fuckin horseshoe .
I'll get a pic tomorrow . Can't believe he didn't break the ratchet mechanism .
Click to expand...
About 15 years ago, I got a 1500kg capacity scissor jack from the local equivalent of Harbour Freight. It lifted the rear corner of a classic Mini (the ones that weigh like 600kg loaded) once. Threads seized with the back of the car in the air. Turned in to a not very enjoyable project getting the car back on the ground without causing damage.
 
#66
I don't have much to tow and not often. I have a 5'x10' ramp gate and I just haul brush and cut limbs to the solid waste dump now and then. I don't like cracking my shin on the tongue and ball. So, I put in a hitch cover.
 
#67
chevy_man said:
You realize that a nut that big provides thousands of pounds of clamping force, and will never move with a shear load?

And your little Tig weld on the surface will cause cracking in the haz, because to properly "fuse" something that thick, you need to machine a groove most of the way through and build the weld all the way up. If you do fully weld a ball on, you'd need to normalize and then heat treat it. Otherwise it would just bend and distort.


Welding is useful when used properly, as are fasteners. I can see putting a tack on the nut as a security measure, but it's doing nothing for strength.
Click to expand...
So you've proven not to know about clamping force vs. welding.
Now it's obvious you don't understand that not all welders are 120v models sold at Harbor Freight.

Do you really need me to take a picture of the stainless hitch tongue and the stainless ball that I use to pull a 20 foot flatbed hauling a very heavy Kubota (no, not a zero turn lawnmower) with bucket, sometimes seeder (that weighs 2300 lbs it's self) rototiller, brush hog, and a few other attachments.
Straight as an arrow, no rust, will never get loose and will never crack......for over ten years now and probably 75k to 100k miles of HEAVY pulling.
I'm not the one new at hitches and hauling.

Have a wonderful fucking day.
 
#68
Expert684 said:
View attachment 8131585
Here, you used the wrong tool! Bet she could have sucked if right off! 👍🤣

Lear Chemical Research Corporation

Lear Chemical Research developing and compounding anti corrosion lubricants and greases, ACF-50, Corrosion Block, Corrosion Block Grease, Rust Block, effectively solving corrosion related problems in the Automotive, Aviation, Industrial, Marine, Motorcycle and Recreational industries.
learchem.com
Use this to preserve or prevent rust. ACF-50. It is not a lubricant but a solution that bounds to the porosity in metal and stops corrosion.
Click to expand...

Funny my buddy and I had that exact conversation about Kamala over breakfast this morning… I’d have to re-chrome the hitch, tho.

Sirhr
 
  • Haha
  • Like
Reactions: FWoo45 and Expert684
#70
n2ishun said:
So you've proven not to know about clamping force vs. welding.
Now it's obvious you don't understand that not all welders are 120v models sold at Harbor Freight.

Do you really need me to take a picture of the stainless hitch tongue and the stainless ball that I use to pull a 20 foot flatbed hauling a very heavy Kubota (no, not a zero turn lawnmower) with bucket, sometimes seeder (that weighs 2300 lbs it's self) rototiller, brush hog, and a few other attachments.
Straight as an arrow, no rust, will never get loose and will never crack......for over ten years now and probably 75k to 100k miles of HEAVY pulling.
I'm not the one new at hitches and hauling.

Have a wonderful fucking day.
Click to expand...

Where did you find stainless? Which grade is it?


And your Kubota is cute, it'll fit on a 20' trailer.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Yasherka and OlsenG_360
#71
about 5 years ago when i upgraded to the one ton, i went ahead and spent the money on the 2.5" receivers instead of the adapter sleeve. they are heavy bitches but now i keep them for two different trucks. seems to work out good.

sorry about your luck, my friend. @sirhrmechanic i cant feel your pain... no rust in my part of Texas :ROFLMAO:
 
#73
you really should have named the post something more like please fuck up worse than I did , and write a post about it misery loves company and pain is always better when you share the laugh with others .
 
#74
Charger442 said:
about 5 years ago when i upgraded to the one ton, i went ahead and spent the money on the 2.5" receivers instead of the adapter sleeve. they are heavy bitches but now i keep them for two different trucks. seems to work out good.

sorry about your luck, my friend. @sirhrmechanic i cant feel your pain... no rust in my part of Texas :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
Once I owned one I never under stood why anyone would own a p/u type truck. Get the one ton with a flat bed. You can carry a lot more and the only real additional maintainence is the extra set of tires. Mileage doesnt vary a lot.

Fpr servoce omdistroes, a 3500 van is the way to go. Lock the door and forget it.
 
#76
Maggot said:
Once I owned one I never under stood why anyone would own a p/u type truck. Get the one ton with a flat bed. You can carry a lot more and the only real additional maintainence is the extra set of tires. Mileage doesnt vary a lot.

Fpr servoce omdistroes, a 3500 van is the way to go. Lock the door and forget it.
Click to expand...

yeah, a flatbed would be really nice on the ranch truck, but i do still like having the regular bed because i can load it easily with firewood right out of my bobcat bucket, can throw all kinds of stuff in there without fear of it sliding out.
 
#77
Charger442 said:
yeah, a flatbed would be really nice on the ranch truck, but i do still like having the regular bed because i can load it easily with firewood right out of my bobcat bucket, can throw all kinds of stuff in there without fear of it sliding out.
Click to expand...
Thats why you run a rough cut 5/4" X 8" oak board around it. We called it a low stake body...you could use pressure treated but I like oak when available. If you need something higher you pop it out and put in cattle sides or what have you.. Nice thing about a ton is you can pull the flat bed off and put on a cube if you want, r a 5th wheel.

I had a HD Chevy with 4WD and positraction for my stone business. In the winters I'd put chains on it and tow car loads of ski people up the mountain.
 
#78
Speaking of one tons, here's somebody with one 273 K miles and he wants $27,950. I think he'll be wainting a while.

1682972304992.png
 
  • Haha
Reactions: 101st
#79
Charger442 said:
sorry about your luck, my friend. @sirhrmechanic i cant feel your pain... no rust in my part of Texas :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...

Yeah, we may have rust. But no fire ants... rattlers... cartels... scorpions... Lone Star Beer... Dust storms... Bush's... and Austin.

So all in all... You can keep it!

Cheers,

Sirhr

PS VT would be bigger than Texas if we flattened it out! Just 'sayin. Oh and Houston should be towed out into the Gulf and sunk.
 
  • Like
  • Haha
Reactions: Aftermath, Maggot, 101st and 1 other person
#80
chevy_man said:
Where did you find stainless? Which grade is it?


And your Kubota is cute, it'll fit on a 20' trailer.
Click to expand...
So you don't know about stainless (psst, grades are for bolts and titanium, stainless has alloys like 304, 316, 416, 420, 440, etc.).
You don't know about flatbeds....because the huge ass harvesters are transported on ....<gasp!> flatbeds not much bigger than 20 foot.
You don't know about Kubotas because a 200 horse M8 will fit on a 20 foot flatbed....but you won't be moving it with a 3/4 ton pickup.

Is there anything you do know ?
 
#81
Maggot said:
Once I owned one I never under stood why anyone would own a p/u type truck. Get the one ton with a flat bed. You can carry a lot more and the only real additional maintainence is the extra set of tires. Mileage doesnt vary a lot.

Fpr servoce omdistroes, a 3500 van is the way to go. Lock the door and forget it.
Click to expand...

Unless you end up driving down the highway where the truck ruts cause the dually to wander trying to decide which rut to follow.

Or snow, a duals kryptonite. If I can stay under the weight for 2 tires I go single on every truck just so 4wd isn't constantly needed 5 months a year.

Aluminum flat beds are nice. I've yet to find a steel one that doesn't get rusty instantly.
 
#82
n2ishun said:
So you don't know about stainless (psst, grades are for bolts and titanium, stainless has alloys like 304, 316, 416, 420, 440, etc.).
You don't know about flatbeds....because the huge ass harvesters are transported on ....<gasp!> flatbeds not much bigger than 20 foot.
You don't know about Kubotas because a 200 horse M8 will fit on a 20 foot flatbed....but you won't be moving it with a 3/4 ton pickup.

Is there anything you do know ?
Click to expand...


That you're deflecting.
 
#84
sirhrmechanic said:
Yeah, we may have rust. But no fire ants... rattlers... cartels... scorpions... Lone Star Beer... Dust storms... Bush's... and Austin.

So all in all... You can keep it!

Cheers,

Sirhr

PS VT would be bigger than Texas if we flattened it out! Just 'sayin. Oh and Houston should be towed out into the Gulf and sunk.
Click to expand...

Hurricane Harvey tried to do that to Houston, but apparently that turd is a floater.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Aftermath and sirhrmechanic
#85
Been there done that. I usually find a big ass tree and back up as close as I can. Then floor it in fourwheel drive. Both times it came out without even noticing it. I don’t want to think about what happens when it doesn’t.
 
#86
sirhrmechanic said:
Yeah, we may have rust. But no fire ants... rattlers... cartels... scorpions... Lone Star Beer... Dust storms... Bush's... and Austin.
Texans
Click to expand...

So all in all... You can keep it!

Cheers,

Sirhr

PS VT would be bigger than Texas if we flattened it out! Just 'sayin. Oh and Houston should be towed out into the Gulf and sunk.
Click to expand...
RIRY
 
  • Haha
Reactions: 101st
#87
Weld the nut on, lol. We use simple lock washers over 1" bolts on rail joints, and leave them there for years without them walking out. If your nuts walks, you didn't torque it enough or you bought a shitty hitch that doesn't properly match the nut with the bolt.

If you're really worried about it walking, use a paint pen for witness marks and check it when you inspect your hitch connection every fill-up like a good driver does.

Or, just weld it on and believe it's good forever like an idiot does.
 
#88
I was just wondering about Chinesium. do you suppose there is domestic and export Chinesium or do they make their fighters and aircraft carriers out of the same shit they make Harbor Freight tools?

Inquiring minds want to know.
 
#89
Redmanss said:
Weld the nut on, lol. We use simple lock washers over 1" bolts on rail joints, and leave them there for years without them walking out. If your nuts walks, you didn't torque it enough or you bought a shitty hitch that doesn't properly match the nut with the bolt.

If you're really worried about it walking, use a paint pen for witness marks and check it when you inspect your hitch connection every fill-up like a good driver does.

Or, just weld it on and believe it's good forever like an idiot does.
Click to expand...
^^^What he said.^^^ :cool:
 
#90
Redmanss said:
Weld the nut on, lol. We use simple lock washers over 1" bolts on rail joints, and leave them there for years without them walking out. If your nuts walks, you didn't torque it enough or you bought a shitty hitch that doesn't properly match the nut with the bolt.

If you're really worried about it walking, use a paint pen for witness marks and check it when you inspect your hitch connection every fill-up like a good driver does.

Or, just weld it on and believe it's good forever like an idiot does.
Click to expand...
So you've never come across the thief's that just unbolt your ball, connect it to their truck and drive away huh ?
Doesn't matter what locking pins you use.
I guess you've never seen a truck stop on a major interstate before.
Just like the cat conv theives but they use Milwaukee cordless impacts instead of sawzalls.
Towtruck drivers will do the same since it's easier to flatbed the main vehicle and just pull the trailer.
Both scenarios are negated by welding the nut.
Anything else you might want to add ?
 
#91
n2ishun said:
So you've never come across the thief's that just unbolt your ball, connect it to their truck and drive away huh ?
Doesn't matter what locking pins you use.
I guess you've never seen a truck stop on a major interstate before.
Just like the cat conv theives but they use Milwaukee cordless impacts instead of sawzalls.
Towtruck drivers will do the same since it's easier to flatbed the main vehicle and just pull the trailer.
Both scenarios are negated by welding the nut.
Anything else you might want to add ?
Click to expand...
So is welding it for anti-theft or to to keep the nut from walking off, because now you’re just changing your story. Which one is it? How about a third reason since everything you keep mentioning is utter bullshit.

And no, I’ve never had a ball stolen off a truck. We’ve had entire work trucks cleaned out at PDX and they left the fucking hitch on, but never had a hitch stolen.
 
#92
n2ishun said:
So you don't know about stainless (psst, grades are for bolts and titanium, stainless has alloys like 304, 316, 416, 420, 440, etc.).
You don't know about flatbeds....because the huge ass harvesters are transported on ....<gasp!> flatbeds not much bigger than 20 foot.
You don't know about Kubotas because a 200 horse M8 will fit on a 20 foot flatbed....but you won't be moving it with a 3/4 ton pickup.

Is there anything you do know ?
Click to expand...
www.kloecknermetals.com

Guide to Stainless Steel Grades

Since stainless steel is aesthetically pleasing and corrosion resistant, it's often used in manufacturing items such as cookware, kitchen sinks, and
www.kloecknermetals.com www.kloecknermetals.com
en.m.wikipedia.org

SAE steel grades - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org en.m.wikipedia.org

Then why do places refer to different alloys as grades?

Also why does astm a453 grade 660 exist as a name that refers to a specific alloy?
 
#93
LeftyJason said:
www.kloecknermetals.com

Guide to Stainless Steel Grades

Since stainless steel is aesthetically pleasing and corrosion resistant, it's often used in manufacturing items such as cookware, kitchen sinks, and
www.kloecknermetals.com www.kloecknermetals.com
en.m.wikipedia.org

SAE steel grades - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org en.m.wikipedia.org

Then why do places refer to different alloys as grades?

Also why does astm a453 grade 660 exist as a name that refers to a specific alloy?
Click to expand...
Hahaha!
The first link is a story written by a woman listing stainless by alloy and not a single thing about "grades".
The second is Wikipedia (nuff said there, right?) and it lists all metals by the alloy, didn't pay enough attention to bother looking for grades.

Then you post about 660 alloy BOLTS.
Yea, bolts do have grades, just like titanium grade 3 and grade 5......you know, grade 3 bolt, grade 5 bolt, grade 8 bolt ?

What exactly is your post about anyway ?

And...
Where the hell did I ever say that I weld the bolt on to keep it from coming loose ?
I didn't.
I weld it on so that it can't come apart, by me, or by anyone else.
You can still remove the pin and remove the hitch just fine, but I use a locking pin so someone else would have to go to alot of trouble to do so.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Merch
Alerts