Hey All -
I have been in the mood to try 6.5 Creed in a semi auto, I intend to use the gun for hunting between 100 - 400 yards. I wanted a gun that could serve double duty for blind hunting and stalking/walking so a major factor I was considering is overall weight.
For the price, DPMS's LR65 has most of what I want except it has a heavy profile 24 inch barrel and weighs 10+ pounds empty.
What I decided to do was buy a host gun from the DPMS Hunter Lite line (RFLR-260L) and convert the gun to 6.5 Creedmoor using the lightest (budget friendly) 20 inch barrel I could find.
Below is some photos for tearing down the host gun, sorry if this has already been posted before - I searched most forums and didn't see a step by step for the Hunter Lite (Carbon Fiber handguard).
The Host Gun:
Weighs in at 8 lbs empty. Has a lightweight upper receiver / gas block / and a lightweight profile 18 inch barrel with an integrated Miculek Comp, all DPMS factory options in the first run of Hunter Lite (2010).
The Carbon Fiber Handguard:
My research on how to remove the handguard revealed that others had tried torching the handguard at the barrel nut location and ended up melting the CF and/or disfiguring the design. I called DPMS and they said to strap wrench it off, however others report marring from the strap wrench.
I setup the upper in a gun vice, and decided to place a space heater on high next to the handguard for 10 mins.
I have some MADGRIP gloves I picked up at PepBoys Autoshop a couple of months ago, they give you Super Human grip. I grasped the handguard firmly and twisted it as though I was unscrewing it off the barrel nut. Be sure not to work it side to side as you run the risk of deforming the mating surface to the barrel nut.
Viola! The seal of epoxy was defeated and off comes the handguard.
The Barrel Nut:
I learned on an AR15, that these aluminum barrel nuts can be broken very easily if you apply too much force on the holes. What complicated this process is the epoxy application had filled the holes AND overlapped onto the receiver threads. It took an hour of careful scraping and dremeling to prep for removal.
NOTE: When dremeling the epoxy out of the holes, you aren’t trying to hone out any surface area within the aluminum. If you hear the bit hitting metal STOP and reposition so that you are only drilling out the epoxy.
Barrel Nut cleaned and ready for removal:
I used PRI's DPMS barrel nut wrench, it goes at half the cost of DPMS's wrench and has holes for heavier size wrenches.
I have been in the mood to try 6.5 Creed in a semi auto, I intend to use the gun for hunting between 100 - 400 yards. I wanted a gun that could serve double duty for blind hunting and stalking/walking so a major factor I was considering is overall weight.
For the price, DPMS's LR65 has most of what I want except it has a heavy profile 24 inch barrel and weighs 10+ pounds empty.
What I decided to do was buy a host gun from the DPMS Hunter Lite line (RFLR-260L) and convert the gun to 6.5 Creedmoor using the lightest (budget friendly) 20 inch barrel I could find.
Below is some photos for tearing down the host gun, sorry if this has already been posted before - I searched most forums and didn't see a step by step for the Hunter Lite (Carbon Fiber handguard).
The Host Gun:
Weighs in at 8 lbs empty. Has a lightweight upper receiver / gas block / and a lightweight profile 18 inch barrel with an integrated Miculek Comp, all DPMS factory options in the first run of Hunter Lite (2010).
The Carbon Fiber Handguard:
My research on how to remove the handguard revealed that others had tried torching the handguard at the barrel nut location and ended up melting the CF and/or disfiguring the design. I called DPMS and they said to strap wrench it off, however others report marring from the strap wrench.
I setup the upper in a gun vice, and decided to place a space heater on high next to the handguard for 10 mins.
I have some MADGRIP gloves I picked up at PepBoys Autoshop a couple of months ago, they give you Super Human grip. I grasped the handguard firmly and twisted it as though I was unscrewing it off the barrel nut. Be sure not to work it side to side as you run the risk of deforming the mating surface to the barrel nut.
Viola! The seal of epoxy was defeated and off comes the handguard.
The Barrel Nut:
I learned on an AR15, that these aluminum barrel nuts can be broken very easily if you apply too much force on the holes. What complicated this process is the epoxy application had filled the holes AND overlapped onto the receiver threads. It took an hour of careful scraping and dremeling to prep for removal.
NOTE: When dremeling the epoxy out of the holes, you aren’t trying to hone out any surface area within the aluminum. If you hear the bit hitting metal STOP and reposition so that you are only drilling out the epoxy.
Barrel Nut cleaned and ready for removal:
I used PRI's DPMS barrel nut wrench, it goes at half the cost of DPMS's wrench and has holes for heavier size wrenches.