Gunsmithing Drilling into HS Precision stock???

[Nathantc]

Ok So im finally starting my rifle project. Im $1900 invested up to this point, so i don't want to ruin the stock. My issue is i want to install this
150-108 Stock Embedding Spigot Versa-Pod Bipod Adapter

So has anyone here modified a HS Precision stock? I'll need to drill a hole about 8" deep into the forearm, and then decide what to use to epoxy/glue the spigot into place. I know there is other ways of attaching my Fortmeier bipod but this is how i want my end results to look, feel, and function.

Below is a photo of my rifle (Savage 110 FCP HS Precision in 300 PRC, SKU Number. 22088) using the dual swivel stud mounting holes with a picatinny rail i had, that just happened to fit perfectly, and the rail to spigot adaptor that came with the bipod

And this is how i want my finished bipod set up to look, feel, and function. This is just sitting in place for a mockup to give a better understanding.

 

[Statusquo]

I've modified HS stocks, flush cups are no problem with some epoxy, but for that, make sure you drill into the aluminum support and you'll be fine.

 

[Nathantc]

I've modified HS stocks, flush cups are no problem with some epoxy, but for that, make sure you drill into the aluminum support and you'll be fine.

still waiting to hear back from HS but some tell me the aluminum support is only for the action and that the forearm has no metal in it at all. Then others tell me it does. Seems it would as the swivel studs are fine threaded. Wish i could x-ray this thing or see a cut away before drilling.

 

[KnowNothing256]

I’ve not modified HS stocks, but I’ve modified a B&C stock, similar materials. 8” is a long way to go, I highly recommend setting the thing up in a fixture to get and keep it aligned properly.

How far forward does the aluminum core extend?

As for epoxy, Devcon, Marine Tex, or JB Weld steel epoxies are all adequate for your needs.

 

[KnowNothing256]

still waiting to hear back from HS but some tell me the aluminum support is only for the action and that the forearm has no metal in it at all. Then others tell me it does. Seems it would as the swivel studs are fine threaded. Wish i could x-ray this thing or see a cut away before drilling.

Ah, sorry, asked a second too late. But yeah, if the threads on the studs are fine, and you can see metallic internal threads, then either they installed female-threaded studs in the forend or the aluminum core extends far enough forward to be drilled and tapped for them. I’d consider the latter more likely. Is there an obvious rib running down the bottom of the barrel channel?

 

[Statusquo]

Some have aluminum in the fore end, some don't. Stud could be threaded into a T-nut. Pull the barreled action and drill some test holes. use any good two-part epoxy.

 

[Nathantc]

I’ve not modified HS stocks, but I’ve modified a B&C stock, similar materials. 8” is a long way to go, I highly recommend setting the thing up in a fixture to get and keep it aligned properly.

How far forward does the aluminum core extend?

As for epoxy, Devcon, Marine Tex, or JB Weld steel epoxies are all adequate for your needs.

no idea about what is inside the forearm just yet. With the barreled action removed it seems as though the aluminum block is only for the action. As for drilling, ill be using a drill press and making a wooden fixture to hold the stock. Getting the hole true is not what i'm worried about, im worried about what i might run into inside the forearm.

I was thinking JB weld. just wasn't sure it would bond with the stock, and if the stock flexed enough to break it loose. doubt it though.

 

[KnowNothing256]

no idea about what is inside the forearm just yet. With the barreled action removed it seems as though the aluminum block is only for the action. As for drilling, ill be using a drill press and making a wooden fixture to hold the stock. Getting the hole true is not what i'm worried about, im worried about what i might run into inside the forearm.

I was thinking JB weld. just wasn't sure it would bond with the stock, and if the stock flexed enough to break it loose. doubt it though.

Ideally you *will* run into an aluminum chassis core, that’ll be more stable than just the fiberglass. Use an appropriate bit for aluminum, go slow, and hope you hit silver. Either way, sounds like this is your plan, so it doesn’t much matter what’s in there. You do want it true though, you could wreak all kinds of havoc if you punch through the exterior or end up with the bipod mounted all caddywampus. You’ll also want to aim high enough to avoid the stud screws if possible, but it may not be.

JB Weld is g2g for this purpose, with that rod at the core it’ll stiffen the friend if anything. It’ll bond for sure if you blow the drilled hole out well, should only need an air can with the long red straw. Could also spray brake cleaner or similar down there to rinse it out, but I’d feel fine with just air. That stuff bonds like crazy.

 

[Statusquo]

You could do something like this, instead.

 

[KnowNothing256]

Oh, and if you’re worried about the bond, you can also stick a spherical Dremel bit into the front of the drilled hole and manually hog out a little “cave.” Then fill the cave with JB Weld before inserting the mount, it’ll set up and act like a retaining plug that will keep the rest of the epoxy from being able to pull out the front.

 

[Nathantc]

ok so i'm going to just say it has aluminum all the way to the end. Not sure why i didn't think to look into the screw holes for the swivel studs. Its going to pass right thru the swivel stud mounting holes. So shorer swivel studs might be next. or drill out he holes and the rod for the spigot and tap it all for a larger swivel stud. This would/should aid in locking the rod into the forearm. I think i know what i need to do from here. Ill post back with results when i get the time to get this done.
As for the rail system suggested by statusquo, that is a nice set up but not the direction i'm going with this build. I like the spigot mount because i can quickly remove the bipod and have a otherwise unchanged forearm.

 

[Nathantc]

looks a little funny because it was bedded to the stock, even though some say its not needed.

 

[Texasflyer]

I would want to do this on a lathe i think. I would probably make a plate to hold the stock that attached to the butt plate mounting surface. Then true the stock up and push it towards the spinning bit a little at a time...

 

[Nathantc]

I would want to do this on a lathe i think. I would probably make a plate to hold the stock that attached to the butt plate mounting surface. Then true the stock up and push it towards the spinning bit a little at a time...

my local smith that just did some work to the rifle might be able to do that for me. Guess i could always ask. I'm just one of those guys who hates anyone working on my anything. Though when i got the rifle it had some chamber issues. Savage would have taken to long, and for $200 i got it bedded, trigger work, chamber re-reamed and headspaced, as apposed to the $100+ in shipping i would have had to pay for savage to fix it.

i bet this would not even be an issue for him. Never even thought about a lathe. Very good idea. Thanks Texasflyer. By the way Lumberton Tx here.

 

[BigPrince]

still waiting to hear back from HS but some tell me the aluminum support is only for the action and that the forearm has no metal in it at all. Then others tell me it does. Seems it would as the swivel studs are fine threaded. Wish i could x-ray this thing or see a cut away before drilling.

I drilled into a Vanguard HS stock for a second bipod screw and there was aluminum probably 3in from the nose like yours also.

 

[Average guy]

I would bet you have aluminum in the forend. Make sure you fixture very secure and use a slow feed rate, being you may not be able to fully drill into aluminum. This will help mitigate the bit from wandering.

 

[Nathantc]

I would bet you have aluminum in the forend. Make sure you fixture very secure and use a slow feed rate, being you may not be able to fully drill into aluminum. This will help mitigate the bit from wandering.

decided to take it to a smith that i know, and have him do it on a lathe. Not sure when ill have the time to do so, but that is now the plan, and yes its a full aluminum block all the way except for the first half inch or so. So the spigot will be embedded into the aluminum making a very sable bipod mount.

 

[Nathantc]

The item description was a bit incorrect. So i will not need to go 8" into the forearm. This should be very doable. Also, for anyone interested, YES the Fortmeier Bipod does 100% fit the Versa Pod spigot. It actually fits a bit better than it does on the oem spigot.

 

[Hateca]

That H-S has an aluminum Skelton type lattice structure in the front. Older and I mean older stocks do not. The aluminum chassis structure extends into the pistol grip area. Nothing in the butt area. That long ass stud glued that deep into the stock, going through any aluminum should be fine. The fill is light weight and the skin is thin. Some have glued in flush cup but I’ve seen the pull out because of that light weight fill and thin skin.

 

[Nathantc]

That H-S has an aluminum Skelton type lattice structure in the front. Older and I mean older stocks do not. The aluminum chassis structure extends into the pistol grip area. Nothing in the butt area. That long ass stud glued that deep into the stock, going through any aluminum should be fine. The fill is light weight and the skin is thin. Some have glued in flush cup but I’ve seen the pull out because of that light weight fill and thin skin.

i was able to verify mine has aluminum in the forearm. The spigot will be imbedded into tha aluminum. Should be super ridged.

 

[...]

I would want to do this on a lathe i think. I would probably make a plate to hold the stock that attached to the butt plate mounting surface. Then true the stock up and push it towards the spinning bit a little at a time...

100% would not do this on a lathe, that is a lot of unsupported mass swigging around far from the chuck....you get that stock spinning at any speed its going to come flying out of that machine.

 

[strikeeagle1]

^^I was hoping someone would show a photo of that setup because I was thinking the same thing; even released at a slow speed the stock might be a knock out blow or worse.

 

[Texasflyer]

100% would not do this on a lathe, that is a lot of unsupported mass swigging around far from the chuck....you get that stock spinning at any speed its going to come flying out of that machine.

You dont spin the stock... you spin a bit and move the stock.... a lathe doesnt have to spin at both ends dude

 

[Texasflyer]

You are thinking in terms of a wood lathe spinning candle sticks. Think machine shop.

 

[Texasflyer]

I have both types of lathes. My grandfather was a master wood worker, the wood lathe kinda scares the shit outta me though. Then we have a machine lathe that can cut and thread ect. It works completely different.

 

[LeftyJason]

You dont spin the stock... you spin a bit and move the stock.... a lathe doesnt have to spin at both ends dude

Spinning a bit and moving a part is the definition of a mill.

What you're trying to say is use the lathe like a horizontal mill with the stock mounted to the carriage.

 

[Nathantc]

lmfao, the machine i seen him using in the shop (gunsmith) would spin the bit, not the stock. I can only imagine doing it the other way and how comically bad that would go hahahaha.
I still feel i could do this with my drill press at home. Would not be hard at all to fashion a mount out of lumber to hold the stock perfectly inline with the range of motion of the drill press. Set it for a low speed, take my time, go slow and not get anything to hot. Or i can just let the gunsmith do it. Either way its going to be pretty nice when its finally done.

 

[Texasflyer]

Spinning a bit and moving a part is the definition of a mill.

What you're trying to say is use the lathe like a horizontal mill with the stock mounted to the carriage.

Its no different than when i make custom seaters for my dies so they dont ding up the tips on my A tips, i am by no means a pro, or know much of the terminology, but i know enough to visualize when it would do the job best lol. My dad is the real machinist, im trying to soak up as much as i can though when we have time to tinker.

 

[Texasflyer]

Spinning a bit and moving a part is the definition of a mill.

What you're trying to say is use the lathe like a horizontal mill with the stock mounted to the carriage.

I use the mill as a drill press, the lathe as a mill, the drill press to polish.... beer is good. Lol

 

[strikeeagle1]

So, I have this pretty good size lathe, but a rank amateur for a few years on the Bridgeport and the lathe.

I would have to build a jig to hold the stock on the dead center side and perfectly align the center of the to-be-bored stock height with the center of live end?

Thanks.

 

[Nathantc]

honestly guys, i wish i owned these machines. really i do. That said why would it be such a bad idea to build something to hold the stock true and then use my drill press. Would it not effectively be the same as using one of these machines?

 

[KnowNothing256]

honestly guys, i wish i owned these machines. really i do. That said why would it be such a bad idea to build something to hold the stock true and then use my drill press. Would it not effectively be the same as using one of these machines?

Yes, it would be effectively the same. Since you only gotta go 4 inches, not 8, a drill press should be fine if you can get the stock to fit and align under the bit.

Honestly, at 4” I’d even consider a hand drill starting with a tiny pilot hole, but if you have a press that’ll accommodate the stock that’s absolutely the better option over a hand drill.

 

[Nathantc]

Yes, it would be effectively the same. Since you only gotta go 4 inches, not 8, a drill press should be fine if you can get the stock to fit and align under the bit.

Honestly, at 4” I’d even consider a hand drill starting with a tiny pilot hole, but if you have a press that’ll accommodate the stock that’s absolutely the better option over a hand drill.

i'm thinking i might give it a go. The website i order the spigot from said it required an 8" deep hole to be embedded in. I started this conversation thinking it would be weeks before it came in the mail. It arrived yesterday, clearly not 8" embedding. 4" is more reasonable and still going to make a very solid mount. The spigot is unrealistically heavy for its size. Kind of a down side to it but im sure its seriously over built. Cant find info on the rockwell hardness of it but it's pretty good steel for sure. Ill weight it some time before its installed.

 

[338dude]

still waiting to hear back from HS but some tell me the aluminum support is only for the action and that the forearm has no metal in it at all. Then others tell me it does. Seems it would as the swivel studs are fine threaded. Wish i could x-ray this thing or see a cut away before drilling.

Could you pull out a sling swivel stud and possibly see the aluminum or not in the hole

 

[Nathantc]

ok so i'm going to just say it has aluminum all the way to the end. Not sure why i didn't think to look into the screw holes for the swivel studs. Its going to pass right thru the swivel stud mounting holes. So shorer swivel studs might be next. or drill out he holes and the rod for the spigot and tap it all for a larger swivel stud. This would/should aid in locking the rod into the forearm. I think i know what i need to do from here. Ill post back with results when i get the time to get this done.
As for the rail system suggested by statusquo, that is a nice set up but not the direction i'm going with this build. I like the spigot mount because i can quickly remove the bipod and have a otherwise unchanged forearm.

338dude. yup

 

[338dude]

338dude. yup

I have the same rifle by the way

 

[338dude]

I have the same rifle by the wayView attachment 7659276

When I drilled my stock for a longer rail if I remember correctly I did hit aluminum so I believe it does run to the forend

 

[Nathantc]

When I drilled my stock for a longer rail if I remember correctly I did hit aluminum so I believe it does run to the forend

you must be tall like myself. (6'5") I'm also looking into extending the LOP by at least 1". That said how are you liking that cheek riser, and did you run into any issues drilling that area? Im planning pretty much the same set up. Also, how do you like the NF scope on there. I'm still undecided what i want to do with glass, not at all limiting myself on price.

And yes, i was able to confirm its aluminum in the forearm

I see you swapped to a custom barrel. Was there anything wrong with the original?

 

[338dude]

you must be tall like myself. (6'5") I'm also looking into extending the LOP by at least 1". That said how are you liking that cheek riser, and did you run into any issues drilling that area? Im planning pretty much the same set up. Also, how do you like the NF scope on there. I'm still undecided what i want to do with glass, not at all limiting myself on price.

And yes, i was able to confirm its aluminum in the forearm

I see you swapped to a custom barrel. Was there anything wrong with the original?

No the original barrel shot good I’ve had the rifle quite a while and just looking for a better accuracy i sold the take off barrel it wears a bartlein now. I like the cheek riser very cheap I believe only $40 from a veteran owned company made in the USA Matthews fabrication look them up it was very easy to install only hitting fiberglass ,And how can you not like a nightforce scope besides the ATACR scopes are just built like a tank. 6’1”

 

[Nathantc]

No the original barrel shot good I’ve had the rifle quite a while and just looking for a better accuracy i sold the take off barrel it wears a bartlein now. I like the cheek riser very cheap I believe only $40 from a veteran owned company made in the USA Matthews fabrication look them up it was very easy to install only hitting fiberglass ,And how can you not like a nightforce scope besides the ATACR scopes are just built like a tank. 6’1”

lol Matthews fabrication is exactly the place i've been eyeing them.
Its not that i don't like the Nightforce, just been looking at all options. Started out looking at Athlon, but in person looking at one was meh, yesterday i was handling a nice schmidt & bender that was around $3,500. Damn fine optic, just not sure its worth $3,500 to me.
After watching some reviews ive been looking at this one

https://www.amazon.com/NightForce-5-20x56mm-Riflescope-Non-Illuminated-Reticle/dp/B00LSX8118/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=nightforce&qid=1625145198&sr=8-5

would like to spend less than $3500 but im keeping the "buy once, cry once" motto in mind. Especially being as im building a rifle to keep till i pass on after death.

 

[Nathantc]

either way i want a FFP optic. So that limits things a bit.

 

[LeftyJason]

If

lol Matthews fabrication is exactly the place i've been eyeing them.
Its not that i don't like the Nightforce, just been looking at all options. Started out looking at Athlon, but in person looking at one was meh, yesterday i was handling a nice schmidt & bender that was around $3,500. Damn fine optic, just not sure its worth $3,500 to me.
After watching some reviews ive been looking at this one

https://www.amazon.com/NightForce-5-20x56mm-Riflescope-Non-Illuminated-Reticle/dp/B00LSX8118/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=nightforce&qid=1625145198&sr=8-5

would like to spend less than $3500 but im keeping the "buy once, cry once" motto in mind. Especially being as im building a rifle to keep till i pass on after death.

If you're looking up to $3500 make sure you look at ZCO.

 

[Nathantc]

If

If you're looking up to $3500 make sure you look at ZCO.

never heard of them, looking into that now. This will be my first time looking at buying a tier 1 optic. Unless you consider an Acog or Eotech as tier 1. Until this build i've never spent more than $500 on a rifle scope (not counting Acog). I know there are a lot of optics in the $500 range that are great, but i want to truly love this rifle. So its tier 1 optic, badger ordnance steel rail and spuhr mount for my optics plan. Going to be a bit of a long term build as ive never put this much money into an overall build.

 

[LeftyJason]

never heard of them, looking into that now. This will be my first time looking at buying a tier 1 optic. Unless you consider an Acog or Eotech as tier 1. Until this build i've never spent more than $500 on a rifle scope (not counting Acog). I know there are a lot of optics in the $500 range that are great, but i want to truly love this rifle. So its tier 1 optic, badger ordnance steel rail and spuhr mount for my optics plan. Going to be a bit of a long term build as ive never put this much money into an overall build.

To help your research.

Rifle Scopes - Official Zero Compromise Optic News & Updates

This thread will be dedicated to ZCO News and Updates so we can keep the members here of Sniper's Hide more easily updated. Simply subscribe to this thread and when we have any news or information we will post it here. Then new information doesn't require a separate post every time. The...

www.snipershide.com

Rifle Scopes - ZCO ZC420 v Kahles K318i v Schmidt Ultra Shorts v Minox ZP5

Three scopes walk into a bar, the first is a ZCO, the second a Kahles and the third a Schmidt… and so the joke goes, but in reality, it was 6 scopes, and Minox joined the party as well and the punchline of the joke is… well read on and we’ll get there. Right before SHOT 2018 I was thrilled to...

www.snipershide.com

Rifle Scopes - Zero Compromise Optics showcase!

Here's a thread we started for customers to showcase their Zero Compromise Optic setups and accomplishments :) @Sprayed99 killing it again at K&M Kahles PRC 2023 running his ZC840 MPCT1 NLE!!! 08/11/23: What's in stock and on the way below and if it's not in stock than PM, call or email to...

www.snipershide.com

No I don't have one but I have shot somebody else's. It was gorgeous.

 

[Nathantc]

that really is a beautiful optic. Watching some youtube reviews as i type this. All my life i've said "there is just no way that there is $3500 worth of anything in a rifle scope" lol. Well i've got a $30 amazon 6-24, and a $500 Leupold VX freedom 6-18x40. Clearly night and day. If buying one of these much, higher end optics has the same difference over my VX. Im sure ill love it forever.

​

 

[LeftyJason]

that really is a beautiful optic. Watching some youtube reviews as i type this. All my life i've said "there is just no way that there is $3500 worth of anything in a rifle scope" lol. Well i've got a $30 amazon 6-24, and a $500 Leupold VX freedom 6-18x40. Clearly night and day. If buying one of these much, higher end optics has the same difference over my VX. Im sure ill love it forever.

​

Check out his videos. BTW that is his handle here as well.

https://youtube.com/c/Covertnoob5

Also check out this guy. He is Koshkin here.

https://youtube.com/c/ikoshkinDLO

 

[KnowNothing256]

+1 for the Matthews cheek riser, I‘ve installed 2 and they work as advertised. I replaced the thumb wheels with a couple aluminum knobs that are more comfy, but otherwise highly recommend.

 

[lloydx2]

The aluminum bar that runs the length of the forearm is rectangular. Probably only 1/4 - 5/16 thick. Not sure how you plan on drilling a hole
that needs to be the diameter of your spud? Let alone how you will locate the drill or end mill precisely in the stock. You could drill small holes
in the barrel channel to locate the bar. Almost would be easier to mill out the barrel channel to the depth and length to fit your spud. Leaving the end of the stock untouched Then drill a hole through the out side of the shell so it looks pretty. Locate your spud through your hole into the channel you milled out and glue it in. Fill the milled channel in with whatever. Paint it black. A 15 dollar end mill in a drill press might even get it
Depending on your press. If your just gluing the spud in and not sleeving it to make it functional You could also shorten the spud

 

[Nathantc]

i might be abandoning the HS Precision stock. The aluminum bar is actually thinner than the spigot i want to instal. There is just no practical way to get what i want.
The GRS Bifrost is already set up to instal the spigot like i want. Though im not so sure the stock would be idea being only fiberglass with no aluminum bedding or reinforcement. I know there are a lot of chassis out there. They are neat, just not honestly comfortable to me. so idk where to go from here. kinda bummed about the stock. Seems like an ok stock and there is not exactly a lot of options for a savage long action.

 

[KnowNothing256]

i might be abandoning the HS Precision stock. The aluminum bar is actually thinner than the spigot i want to instal. There is just no practical way to get what i want.
The GRS Bifrost is already set up to instal the spigot like i want. Though im not so sure the stock would be idea being only fiberglass with no aluminum bedding or reinforcement. I know there are a lot of chassis out there. They are neat, just not honestly comfortable to me. so idk where to go from here. kinda bummed about the stock. Seems like an ok stock and there is not exactly a lot of options for a savage long action.

I’d say install the spigot anyway, unless you’re now set on selling it. JB Weld sets up friggin stiff, and I think it’ll hold up to loading normal bipod loads