Gunsmithing DuraCoat question...

[Sgt_Jamez]

Duracoat noob here... just have a couple questions.

What is the opinion of mixing the paint and hardener and spray it, versus thinning it down with the reducer before spraying?

Does reducing it help?

Also is the reducer added to the paint/hardener mix? Or added to just the paint then hardener added?

Thanks!

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Re: DuraCoat question...

I've done jobs where I didn't use any reducer and one job where I did use the reducer. The two jobs where I didn't use any reducer came out pretty good, one rifle was a bolt gun and one was an AR-15 that I refinished. The AR-15's finish is holding strong on the receiver and haven't had any issues. The bolt gun started to loose some DC around the muzzle but I chalked that up to poor metal prep than the lack of reducer. I did notice though that when I refinished the bolt gun and used the reducer with Tactical FDE the coats went on much more even and seemed to cover the fluted barrel much better. It also seemed to help the Preval sprayer do its job a lot better as well.

I added the reducer after I had the hardener and paint mixed up in the bottle, which is how I think Lauer recommends that you do it.

I hope this helps and for some more information check out this article from my website:

DuraCoat Painting Made Easy

If you have any questions shoot me a PM or email me.

 

[jth999]

Re: DuraCoat question...

I just painted a barrel and did not use reducer. Temp. was 74 degrees. It came out a little thick so I had to adjust distance back and do very quick sweeps. I did three coats to make it even and cosistant. I needed the third coat to get the final blend or overall coverage. I think a little reducer would of helped. I used the preval sparayer and it worked just fine.

 

[sgtbutt]

Re: DuraCoat question...

I believe using Reducer has some to do with humidity as well. I have a bottle on hand in case I need to use it but haven't as of yet. Due to the cold weather we'll see if that has anything to do with it.
As far as mixing I highly recomend the little paint mixing bottles that can be found at most hobby/craft stores. Throw it all in there and if you find after your first little batch you need reducer put some in before you even pour the paint into your airbrush/paint gun. YMMV

 

[locked&loaded]

Re: DuraCoat question...

Most DuraCoat colors are the right viscosity for spraying with just adding the hardner. I have used reducer for colors that have set in a half empty container for a while though. I reduced the color before adding hardner.
If you are spraying in a higher heat environment (summer) you can use retarder to slow down the dry time to prevent "dry spraying"
I use a set of measuring spoons and 2 oz. stainless sauce cups to mix in.
Stir with popsicle sticks.

 

[Sgt_Jamez]

Re: DuraCoat question...

I bought some model paints and sprayed a grip and mag body for training purposes and found out that it went much better heavily thinned! Haha... ok so go light if at all withg the reducer? Does it need to be strained?

 

[locked&loaded]

Re: DuraCoat question...

Never had to strain DuraCoat. Just shake very well before mixing.

 

[300winman]

Re: DuraCoat question...

I have done several weapons in duracoat,And have found that the tactical and neon colors don't need to be reduced even in an airbrush,But they are the first to need retarder.Like locked&loaded stated temp and humidity factor all things. Test your product on a small piece to to see how it looks. Then add reducer or retarder accordingly

 

[johnsobr]

Re: DuraCoat question...

I use two different air brushes for duracoat. The first i use is a badger 350 (primarily for base coating) the second i use is an iwata eclipse. I really only use my iwata for fine detail and sometimes requires reducer. Reducer also helps with secondary colors because you dont need to put on the thickness of a base coat, you just need to cover the color under it. Helps reduce build up.

 

[Sgt_Jamez]

Re: DuraCoat question...

I did one coat using a HF airbrush, then switched to an Alltrade detail HVLP gun. I really liked the HVLP, but the Duracoat reducer nuked the packing in the sprayer. An email to Alltrade suggested I go to a local paint supply store to get new seals for their gun, as Alltrade apparently provides no support for the products they sell. Luckily, I can get a new gun like that for $24 on Amazon!

 

[speedcrank]

Re: DuraCoat question...

haven't had any experience with duracoat, however i finished a couple pistols with cerakote, and they came out nicely. i did this maybe 2 years ago..at that time the cerakote came in an aerosol can, and required baking at 300* for, i believe, a half hour. the finish comes out a nice, even flat black.one gun was a 9mm star firestar, the other a smith mod 10. i did the frame only on the smith and left the barrel and cylinder polished blue,came out quite pretty. the finish on both guns has held up quite nicely..only thing was, my wife didn't exactly appreciate the industrial stink the baking process did to her kitchen!

 

[Captain Moroni]

Re: DuraCoat question...

Mix paint and hardener first then use reducer when its cold and retarder in the heat.

I had a bottle of retarder sitting on the shelf in my shop and my wife asked "have you been drinking this"

 

[Widowmaker0001]

Re: DuraCoat question...

FYI-The Prep is EVERYTHING.Coatings are only as good as the adhesion quality you provide,whether it be viscous or chemical,(solvent cleaned)in this case.The reducer in my experience is going to give you a better overall finish and durability,but to each its own.Goodshootin'

~Reagan