Easy to remove case lube?

[NICKNICK]

I'd been using RCBS case lube oil on a foam pad, and it seemed fine. I recently picked up a bottle of Redding case lube, and it leaves a sticky residue behind if I just wipe the cases off with a paper towel.

Rather than just going back to RCBS, I figured I'd ask you all what the easiest to clean case lube is. I'd prefer to keep using a foam pad (rather than a spray).

I don't have a tumbler or ultrasonic cleaner, and I'd prefer to not have to add an alcohol-on-a-cloth step to the process.

What's the easiest case lube to remove with just a paper towel?

Thanks!

 

[former naval person]

Ivory soap...be sure to let it dry before sizing. Rinse with hot water and allow the cases to dry There is a recent thread on here about lubes and sticking dies/brass. I prefer the home made alcohol/lanolin/castor oil, and tumble mine to clean. Some reloaders use an acetone dip...it evaporates quickly. You do have to replace the acetone when it starts leaving a perceptible residue of lube after evaporation. FIRE HAZARD!!!

 

[NICKNICK]

By ivory soap, do you mean Ivory bar soap and water--just put the wet soap down on the lube pad?

That's a neat idea--i never thought of that.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

RCBS Water Soluble Case Lubricant; very little is required. I dampen the thumb and index finger of my left hand with it, pick up the case with my right hand by the neck end, and give the case a spiral spin between the two fingers of the left hand just before inserting the case into the case holder. This gives me excellent control over how much and where the case gets lubed (like NOT on or above the shoulder). After the cartridges are completed, a shop cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol removes all traces from each case with a minimum of fuss, and leaves the brass without fingerprints, too.

 

[JGorski]

The mink oil I tried yesterday came off pretty fast. No rinsing needed.

 

[Iamironman]

I don't have a tumbler

Get one. You really should have one.

 

[NICKNICK]

Get one. You really should have one.

Is there any real need for one except for shiny cases? As long as there is no lube residue, I've just been calling it good and moving on. If there's a real advantage to having one, please let me know--I've just been avoiding them because I was trying to avoid extra equipment and clutter.

Is a tumbler the right thing to be removing lube, or do you need to do an alcohol wipe first? It seems like the media could get gooped up after a while.

 

[NICKNICK]

Get one. You really should have one.

Is there any real need for one except for shiny cases? As long as there is no lube residue, I've just been calling it good and moving on. If there's a real advantage to having one, please let me know--I've just been avoiding them because I was trying to avoid extra equipment and clutter.

Is a tumbler the right thing to be removing lube, or do you need to do an alcohol wipe first? It seems like the media could get gooped up after a while.

 

[Iamironman]

A tumbler is a good idea to clean your brass so you don't get any grit inside your sizing die and ruining it.

I've been using Imperial sizing wax, and I just throw them in the tumbler for a couple hours and the lube is gone.

 

[NICKNICK]

Does that mean that you tumble before and after sizing?

Before: to clean the cases no no grit gets in the sizing die.
After: to remove the lube after sizing.

Is that correct?

 

[boone3380]

I use Imperial sizing wax and tumble before and after sizing. First tumble removes grime, second tumble removes lube.

 

[pjparker]

Nick

Step 1 - Ditch the foam pad - it will just get gritty and grimy and transfer that grit and grime from one case to another.

Step 2 - Get Imperial sizing wax - it is the only lube that really will come off easily with just a paper towel (even better is a microfiber cloth).

Step 3 - Really, Dude, get a tumbler. It will make your life so much easier.

Freely given advice, worth every penny you paid !!!!!

Paul

 

[turbo54]

By ivory soap, do you mean Ivory bar soap and water--just put the wet soap down on the lube pad?

That's a neat idea--i never thought of that.

This is my method. Just simple Ivory or Dawn liquid dish detergent. I suspect Ajax, Palmolive and others would work also, but I've only tried Ivory and Dawn. It wipes off fairly easy, but really, the reason I tried it was because the oil-based lubes would come off in my stainless tumbler without a water change or two.

 

[ChrisGarrett]

I'd been using RCBS case lube oil on a foam pad, and it seemed fine. I recently picked up a bottle of Redding case lube, and it leaves a sticky residue behind if I just wipe the cases off with a paper towel.

Rather than just going back to RCBS, I figured I'd ask you all what the easiest to clean case lube is. I'd prefer to keep using a foam pad (rather than a spray).

I don't have a tumbler or ultrasonic cleaner, and I'd prefer to not have to add an alcohol-on-a-cloth step to the process.

What's the easiest case lube to remove with just a paper towel?

Thanks!

For smaller batches of bottle neck cases, I use either RCBS CaseLube II on a pad, or Redding Imperial Sizing Wax. The former can be easily removed with a damp shop towel and the latter can be easily removed with a dry cotton t-shirt.

Much quicker than tumbling the lube off.

For larger 200+ batches, I'll use either Dillon Spray Lube and tumble it off, or OneShot (only used once).

Chris

 

[cjherrman]

I have always found Hornady case lube to work good and easy to remove. I even use it for handgun rounds.

 

[George63]

I tried using dish soap for lube and had stuck cases

 

[user]

Brake cleaner.

 

[JGorski]

Um, Im pretty sure mink oil is the shit.

 

[stubbicatt]

I hope this helps. I have found that a 1 cup atomizer from Walmart, the pump squirt bottles like what windex comes in, but very small? Well I have found that these make a pretty easy lube solution.

I take clean or tumbled empties, toss maybe 20 or 30 or so into a ziplock 1 gallon plastic bag. I then squirt a mixture of Lee sizing lube and 90% Isopropyl alcohol into the bag, say 6 squirts or so, zip it up and then roll it around in my hands. Open it and toss the lubed brass in an old collander or screen of whatever you find to allow the Iso to evaporate off the cases. It takes only a few minutes until they are dry to the touch. There is a little lube on the inside of the case mouths and the outsides are well lubed with a really thin coating of the stuff. No expander ball drag and never had a stuck case.

Add another handful of brass and maybe another squirt of solution, repeat as necessary.

Resize, and then tumble in old worn out corn cob media for maybe 20 minutes to half an hour. Voila. Nice clean resized cases. If tumbling is not possible, a moistened microfiber towel with water will wipe the lube off the outside of the cases with one little twist, it just takes awhile for them to dry after that.

This method works for me and is pretty inexpensive. You could give it a try.

Hope it helps.

 

[cjherrman]

Well just ordered some Dillon, gonna give it a try.

 

[NICKNICK]

I think I'm going to try the RCBS water soluble lube on a pad for right now, but you guys have convinced me to pick up a tumbler. The ones from Thumler look good and aren't too expensive. One more thing to research now...

 

[Iamironman]

I used the RCBS lube for years. I never used the felt pad, but a shop rag. That way I always had a clean surface.

 

[bronco_buster]

+1 on Mink Oil. It's dirt cheap, easy to find at ChinaMart, and after I size 50 cases I shake them in a towel that with a couple of spritz's of Ed's Red homebrew bore solvent...and it disappears. I haven't tumbled cases for several months. When they are severely discolored they get a rejuvenation with the stainless media. Cuts prep time significantly.

 

[shooter98]

Are you guys removing the lube before you put them through the bullet seater die?

 

[Rob01]

Hornady One Shot doesn't have to be removed although I toss it in the tumbler for about 20 min after sizing. Also it won't contaminate primers or powder if it gets into the case.

If you are reloading you need a tumbler. Shoving dirty brass into your dies will shorten their life.

 

[lightman]

I have to agree with buying a tumbler. If you need to wait awhile, you can degrease your cases with carb cleaner, brake cleaner, electrical contact cleaner, starting fluid, mineral spirits, or any number of other solvents. Read the label for hazards, as some of them are very powerful (health issues). Shiny cases won't shoot any better, but dirty cases are not good for your dies, or chamber. Lightman

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Ditto on the tumbler, my .223 die acquired a piece of grit that wouldn't brush out. It was leaving deep scratches in case necks that led to premature neck splits.

A friend removed it, but won't say how; I suspect he had to resort to something drastic. The cases don't get those scratches anymore and the ammo shoots fine, so I guess...

I do a lot of .223 handloads, so this was a significant issue for me.

Greg

 

[Drifter™]

Lee case lube:

Lee Case Sizing Lube 2oz Tube

 

[thespecialist]

I'm with Rob01, Hornady One Shot is all I use for lube. If I need to take it off a large batch of cases, 20-30 minutes in the corncob media is sufficient. If it's 20-30 load development rounds, a quick wipe with a shop rag dampened with Isopropyl Alcohol does the trick nicely.

 

[bodywerks]

I'm surprised Hornady Unique has not been mentioned. It has been the only lube not to cause a dented case for me. I've tried several but I'll admit i haven't tried one shot or mink oil.

 

[6mech]

I'm surprised Hornady Unique has not been mentioned. It has been the only lube not to cause a dented case for me. I've tried several but I'll admit i haven't tried one shot or mink oil.

I use this as well. It only takes a miniscule amount and it wipes of super easy. Never had a stuck case with it either.

 

[gaphighpower]

Take the advice of previous posters and get a tumbler. Money well spent. Not only for the cosmetics, but you don't want fouled/tarnished brass rammed into you sizer die or your fine rifle.


Bit more than you asked but this is how I prep...



I prefer to remove the primer first using a dedicated (cheap) press and decapping die. It saves getting dirt and fine grit in my bread and butter press which I use for sizing and seating only. Plus, I can remove the ash from the primer pocket before tossing into tumbler.

Tumble brass until desired shine.

I take a handful of brass from the tumbler. I have an air compressor used to blow out the insides and make sure no media in the case or primer pocket/hole.

I ALWAYS clean my sizer die before prepping a batch. Use gun cleaning solvent on a small patch and twist it inside the die. You will be amazed at the fouling that builds up in the shoulder area of the die. Make sure die is dry after cleaning.

As stated previously Imperial Sizing wax is great. I currently use HORNADY Unique Case Lube. I too tossed out my RCBS sizing pad and lube long ago. The trick is not to use TOO MUCH lube. I take a small dab and rub between my index finger and thumb, this will last you a 'bunch' of cases. Grab a case, roll between your finger and thumb a LIGHT film on the bottom 3/4 of the case. Never put lube on the shoulder of a case, not necessary and it will promote dimpling. As you progress through the sizing you will notice cases will get a bit harder to 'ram' and sticky to remove - time to recharge your finger and thumb with lube.

I throw 6-7 in a CLEAN and dry t-shirt and wipe. The HORNADY lube is water soluble and comes off easily. Don't worry about getting perfectly dry a little residue doesn't hurt anything. Ready to prime/charge/seat bullet.

My 2 cents

Hope this helps,
gap

 

[Boogie]

Brake cleaner.

+1 on the brake cleaner. I use one shot lube then after loading up a batch I take them outside spray some brake cleaner on an old towel, dump the rnds on the towel, pick it up by the ends and roll the rnds around for a few seconds. Poof no more lube. Only drawback is that brake cleaner stinks to high heaven so use it outside.