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EC has a tuner/brake that threads on without having to cut.ATS doesn't require you to turn down and cut additional threads into your barrel, it just uses your existing muzzle threads. That simplifies installation and when you re-barrel or if you want to move the ATS to a different gun there's no extra work needed. I've got an ATS on a .22 rifle and I'm happy with it. A buddy of mine using the EC Tuner on his .22 rifle and he's happy with it too, though it does need to have additional threads cut on the barrel.
I was not aware. Are you talking about their tuner brakes, or is there something like the ATS where it screws onto the muzzle threads, and then whatever muzzle device you want screws down in front of the tuner?EC has a tuner/brake that threads on without having to cut.
I was not aware. Are you talking about their tuner brakes, or is there something like the ATS where it screws onto the muzzle threads, and then whatever muzzle device you want screws down in front of the tuner?
In the end I got an Ec tuner brake.
When I have it installed I will tell you the results
Moar, It seems a tuner for center fire works on a relatively less rigid bbl. FTR 30” in a medium to heavy Palma contour responds to the typical tuner weights but a 20” straight 1.25” might require an inordinate amount of extra weight added, as a rough example. A rifle with some built-in positive compensation is another way of stating this. A 24-26” slender rim fire bbl will show you what they do. A good seating depth does about the same in a CF, the tuner advantage being ability to dial for a big delta in conditions. A good wide powder node gets around this within limits and I don’t bother with them in CF for this reason.I am given to understand tuners do work for some people. I have an ATS tuner which I tried on my 6.5 creedmore two different times and I never saw a difference worth noting. If I put 10 in a inch the tuner didn’t make it three quarters or a half inch. I watched others at the local range confirm my findings. I remain curious but largely ignore tuners now. Good luck.
I run 24 inch 1.25 inch straight barrels and my tuners work just fine on my barrels. They also worked just fine on the 26 inch proof carbon sendero barrel I used to help develop them and are working great on the pros nrl hunter builds that are running my tuners which all have carbon barrels.Moar, It seems a tuner for center fire works on a relatively less rigid bbl. FTR 30” in a medium to heavy Palma contour responds to the typical tuner weights but a 20” straight 1.25” might require an inordinate amount of extra weight added, as a rough example. A rifle with some built-in positive compensation is another way of stating this. A 24-26” slender rim fire bbl will show you what they do. A good seating depth does about the same in a CF, the tuner advantage being ability to dial for a big delta in conditions. A good wide powder node gets around this within limits and I don’t bother with them in CF for this reason.
EC brake is 1.5 oz I’m pretty sure but the original barrel mounted version is heavier in the 4 oz range.What are the heavier tuner/brake options available?
I am reading that the EC tuner/brake is 2oz.
And the heavier options, 4oz., brand/make was not specified, is better for heavier contoured barrels.
I will guess this will apply to shorter barrels as well?
Just received my new “laser pointer”,
6.5CM Nosler M48 Independence pistol, barrel is 15”
I am trying to avoid spending twice, or more.
Thanks.
Even though you're sold out you don't list your pricing on your website what is the price of your tuner break?EC brake is 1.5 oz I’m pretty sure but the original barrel mounted version is heavier in the 4 oz range.
It comes down to how you’re going to use the tuner also. If you’re going to try and tune factory ammo with a lightweight tuner, you might run into issues with a limited range of adjustment and same deal with trying to do load development by replacing seating depth adjustments with just using the tuner. But it’s a lottery, you don’t know if you’re close to a node from your starting point or far away and how much adjustment you’ll actually need. Which is why I made mine the way I did, larger heavier tuner with very fine adjustments.
if you’re going to tune a load after doing complete load development you should already be in or on the edge of a node so a lightweight tuner will be fine.
Ats tuners have a good amount of adjustment in them and everyone runs them without issue so they’re the easiest screw on and go option, otherwise the ec barrel mounted tuner is the way to go.
My tuners are sold out currently and we are restocking but it will be a while. The website is: www.strikewithoutwarning.com
Thanks for pointing that out, I didn’t realise that error existed. I’ll fix it tonight. They are $325.Even though you're sold out you don't list your pricing on your website what is the price of your tuner break?