Gunsmithing EFR rail install

STI_1911_Guy

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Feb 1, 2011
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Hello,
Im looking to install the EFR in my manners T4A stock and i was wondering about clearance. I have a remington 700 remage build with a criterion heavy varmint 26" barrel (.815 muzzle) and i was wondering if the badger EFR has enough clearance to work with this barrel?
 
there is more than enough clearance to fit that barrel in there.

I disagree. (IF the OP is truly using a Heavy Varmint contour)

The HV contour is going to run 1.250" at the breech and be well in front of the receiver before the taper starts (compared to an MTU with same taper but shorter cylinder length).
The NV mount will probably lie about 7-7.5" in front of the recoil lug and I believe you will have issues.

IF the barrel clears the mount, it will be so close that I guarantee rub marks the first trip to the range, probably even before you fire it.
Your EFR will have about a 1.200" dia. through hole (same as my MUNSter NV mount) and I have seen the need for about threshold of 1.100" or smaller diameter at the point it enters the mount. This gives 0.050" clearance all the way around assuming proper alignment of the installation.

Many, many MTU and HV barrels have had the contours tweaked to fit through with no rubbing, etc.

TC
 
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Im looking to install the EFR in my manners T4A stock, I have a Heavy Varmint Barrel and was wondering if the badger EFR has enough clearance to work with this barrel?

No, it does not. You'll have to turn down the barrel just ahead of the EFR in order for it to not touch.

Look just behind this EFR and you'll see what I'm talking about. This is a LV barrel for comparison

2vudeno.jpg
 
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i disagree.

The hv contour is going to run 1.250" at the breech and be well in front of the receiver before the taper starts (compared to an mtu with same taper but shorter cylinder length).
The nv mount will probably lie about 7-7.5" in front of the recoil lug and i believe you will have issues.

If the barrel clears the mount, it will be so close that i guarantee rub marks the first trip to the range, probably even before you fire it.
Your efr will have about a 1.200" dia. Through hole (same as my munster nv mount) and i have seen the need for about threshold of 1.100" or smaller diameter at the point it enters the mount. This gives 0.050" clearance all the way around assuming proper alignment of the installation.

Many, many mtu and hv barrels have had the contours tweaked to fit through with no rubbing, etc.

Tc


this!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Maybe try this.

With your barrel in the stock, mark the spot on the barrel where it will initially run through the EFR. By this, I mean the back side of the mount. Unless your barrel is just "weird" this will be the biggest diameter as they taper smaller as they move towards the muzzle.

Now see how big the hole is in the EFR. I believe this information is posted as part of the item specifications. (I don't know it off the top of my head and I'm too lazy to look it up)

If the barrel is smaller, it should fit through the hole. As Terry mentioned, you want to have some additional clearance so that the barrel doesn't "whack it" while shooting. I would guess a good .05" difference in diameters should be sufficient. (.025" of radial clearance). If there is a problem, you essentially left with two possible solutions.

1. New, smaller barrel for your gun.
2. Have the existing barrel's contour altered so that it will fit.

Either will work although the presentation level of #2 can vary greatly depending upon the skill set of the shop doing the work. Altering the hole ID on an EFR isn't really a good option as the screw holes are very close to the bore and enlarging the hole any appreciable amount will almost certainly invade into the threaded holes -basically ruining the thing.

Ensure that when the mount is fitted to the stock, it's positioned so that the barrel has the clearance when its all put together for good. This is easy enough to do so I wouldn't be overly concerned about it.

10 minutes of your time, a set of dial calipers, a calculator, and a few minutes on the internet looking up specs should provide you with your answers.

Good luck.
 
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OK guys Maybe I am retarded, but I read that this gun is a remage with a barrel nut. I looked on CBI's website and the only 26" barrel with an .815 muzzle is the Varmint which does not appear to have an extended shank. If there is a savage style with a 1.250 shank then I am wrong. I just did not think that you could have a shank that was larger than the barrel threads on a savage or remage with a barrel nut.
 
OK guys Maybe I am retarded, but I read that this gun is a remage with a barrel nut. I looked on CBI's website and the only 26" barrel with an .815 muzzle is the Varmint which does not appear to have an extended shank. If there is a savage style with a 1.250 shank then I am wrong. I just did not think that you could have a shank that was larger than the barrel threads on a savage or remage with a barrel nut.

I went to the contour chart at CBI's web site. It appears that no HV is offered, only a varmint and light varmint. The largest OD is 1.057", dimension "A" on the chart. The barrel just gets smaller from there. I cant speak for Terry but as for me, I may have spoke too soon, maybe I should have just kept quite. The standard HV is 1.250" at the breech and is too big for an EFR but, that doesn't seem to be the case here. It appears that I owe Ajwcotton an apology as Im reading it now as you and 300sniper.

Sorry for the harsh words Ajw.

Dimension "F" on the chart isn't provided but, the varmint contour is probably close to a Rem. Varmint and this would work in an EFR.

Now, back to my absence, take care everyone.
 
AJ,

I am not trying to be a fart so sorry if the tone is off.

The O.P. posted that the barrel was a Heavy Varmint. Regardless of the maker, Heavy Varmint = a certain dimension and contour.

If the O.P. has a barrel that is truly a Heavy Varmint, I stand by my posts.
If the O.P. does not know what he has and was using Heavy Varmint as a generic description, I apologize to the O.P. and others in this thread for ASSuming he was giving an accurate contour description for us to work with and had modified an HV contour with shank relief for the nut.

I know that would be a bit off track but have seen other head scratchers.

I am going to go back and edit my posts in this thread to remove the attitude because that was wrong even if I am right.

TC
 
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The barrel was criterion and when on the phone it was a heavy varmint but i do see there chart only shows varmint and light varmint. The manners stock that i dropped the rifle into was inletted for what they call heavy varmint contours (coming from bullets.com where ordered) yet the stock needed a fair amount removed at the forend and back about 4" to even fit. I have ordered a few barrels from CBI and i have always asked for HV and never been corrrected so maybe i just got that in my head somewhere.
 
You can not always go by the contour number alone. You can have two blanks in contour X, but if the blank lengths are different, then the diameters will be different at different lengths along the blank. Only the breech and muzzle ends will be "the same diameter". Once you cut the blank to length, the muzzle dia of the longer blank will be larger then that of the shorter one. How much difference depends on the contour and blank length. Easy answer...... Measure your barrel diameter 3.5" back from the tip of the stock. This is aprox where the rear of the EFR will be. If its 1.150" or smaller your good. If larger, you may want to have your barrel turned down some for clearance like shown above.