Night Vision Eurooptic has KAC PVS30 Army Buyback Grade A, $4700.

Don’t put too much thought into the FOM, I’ve had several come through and the one that seemed to have a better image was actually a lower 1600 FOM unit. It’s so hard to tell any difference it’s regardless though.

Exactly how much light, who knows, what I can tell you is that light damages them. Don’t turn them on if it’s not dark... if it’s not dark there’s no reason to be using it in the first place. Keep it away from idiot friends with flashlights too and it will last your lifetime and probably your kids too.

The performance will blow away what you were used to from your ATN.
Thanks. I finally got it out at night. Excellent clarity. Very heavy setup. Will need to use my steady sticks.
I mounted my glass on a 1.5 inch qd riser. The total setup missed the centerline of the clip on about 1/8 or 3/16 off center. Doesn’t seem to matter though.
 
Thanks. I finally got it out at night. Excellent clarity. Very heavy setup. Will need to use my steady sticks.
I mounted my glass on a 1.5 inch qd riser. The total setup missed the centerline of the clip on about 1/8 or 3/16 off center. Doesn’t seem to matter though.

I thought the Larue SPR-S was setup for NV use, I thought it was high enough. But it's off a little like you say, I didn't try it last night because I got laid low with a gut crisis that seemed to go away but came back with a vengeance. I'll try it tonight. (Shit. I'm just now looking at it, it's 1.44 and it's got 10MOA built in... How the fuck did I not know this?). Well, we'll see if it works. That rifle hasn't been fired yet, I can always change the mount if I need to and I have one that may be able to give up it's Badger.

The rifles with the Badger mounts and rings lined up perfectly. The .50's rings are 1.49 SASR's and the unimounts are the 1.54 Recon's. Badger says the Recon is for lining up with modern clip on NV and thermal. And it works. But I bet 1.5 would be just as good, it's only off .04" from center and the SASR's are only .05" off. I didn't even notice it, but I did notice 1.44" and 10MOA, it sits kinda low and were it not for the small obj. of the MR/T, it would go below the PVS.
 
I'm running with 3.3 and 3.7 badgers with the PVS-30 and doing fine ... Need to go that low for the UTC-x ... need rings that work for both and the ADMs overw 1.5 cause the uTC-x to hit low ...
 
Ya badger mounts are gtg for sure
20180729_163408.jpg
 
Finally got back around to doing this again. So here's the picture I took through the USO LR-17, it's not great at all and I had to zoom the camera all the way just to get this. The image was actually very bright and clear. It was a full moon that night and I don't see the dot anywhere there so I'm guessing the illumination was turned off in that picture. There was nowhere I could really aim it, I'm surrounded by trees, and I had to balance it on a table so getting some leaves on the top of a tree was the best I could do. And it doesn't really matter much anyway because that's not what it looks like through the scope. It's bright like that but the image is way better. Wish there was a better way to take a picture. I guess I could have used just the PVS and it would have looked better. Didn't think of that until now.

I really like how the reticle stands out with no illumination. Also, I was able to get it up to 17x, which is max on that scope, and it looked good enough to use although the noise was significantly more enhanced at high mag., but it's just the physics of it. Wonder how it'll do at 25x. Gonna try this Leupod out tonight first though. This was taken at 3.2x or so:

IMG_0865.JPG
 
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My rubber cover has some tears on the sides as well. The bottom doesn't look intentional, but probably because it is: it is a little chewed up probably from scraping along rails! So, good to know. But I still need a new one.

So, I am playing some other angles for better ideas and if they pan out you will all be notified, but I just got this and anyone else who needs one better jump on it right now as it's dirt cheap:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/272385549269

Tan, not black, but for $10 shipped, I got two.
 
Thanks Shoo !!!
I also got Two !!!
:D
There were 10, 7 sold, 3 remaining !!
Yeah mine looked like a dog took a bite out of it ... hard to believe it was intentional !!! But really glad Shoo found some replacements !!
 
I chatted with the seller of the caps, and they don't have a clue, just resell surplus, but were interested to get feedback on them if they work or not. If I read right they also tossed a third into my box as a gift. So if anyone misses out and is desperate, ask and if true I can probably part with it.


As far as rear caps go, if you want to be really snazzy and keep it covered better than that push-on rubber thing, I got a response from Jon Aadland, and he says the objective side of the:

http://shop.aadmount.com/Flip-Up-Cap-Set-Vortex-PST-GII-3-15X44mm-CAPS-PSTGII44.htm?productId=143

(Which you can order alone yes). It may be a tidge large, but just wrap a bit of tape around the barrel of the scope. I have some 3M exterior grade double sided tape I have been using for years to keep tightenable (vs slip on, of course) scope caps and some related things secure for years. So, doesn't bug me.

I already have a cheapass flip up cap coming, so someone else show it off if you go for it and tell how it fits.
 
Okay, this is a weirder one and not only may you not care, but you may even think its a bad idea. I know. I did chat about it with someone knowledgeable and well-employed, it's safe. However: use at your discretion and risk.

This started as a temporary fix. My base is broken so doesn't have proper clamping adjustment range. I would love to get it fixed, but am having issues getting my retailer to give me the warranty info — so if anyone has any tricks to get warranty service, do tell. Anyway, I simply replaced the crossbolt adjustment screws with thumbscrews and standoffs, thusly:

2018-08-03-14.01.12.jpg


You have to keep the cone washers. And the everything else, so make sure the springs don't fall out if you remove both screws at once so the plate comes off.

To use it, You align the clipon to the rail (get the recoil lugs in the slots), tighten the screws snugly, loosen them about 1/4 turn, then close the lever to lock it. If the lever doesn't close with proper force, change the screw tension till it it snug but not too hard to close.

And now, I generally like it and will change out to it even if I do end up getting the sight fixed. Because the KAC mount is weird and has no automatic adjustment range, or easy adjustment for different rails. I switch between guns, put it on a base to use with my spotter, and even stick it on the blue gun for demos. The thumbscrews give me the range to switch mounts safely, and easily.

If anyone wants the part numbers from McMaster to get these pretty black anodized tubes and black phosphate thumbscrews, just ask. No machining, just remove then replace with these. Easy.
 
... no automatic adjustment range, or easy adjustment for different rails ...

Are you sure? Both of the ones I've had do !! The adjustments are on the starboard side if the clipon is mounted to the gun. An allen wrench adjustment and done. Not automatic, but pretty easy.
 
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Yes, in fact two allen keys, one to use the locking grub screws. Found it tedious compared to any other system, and impossible in low-light, etc.

Have to adjust more than a lot of other sight/laser mounts I own, so it wouldn't work easily on some of my weird things. But, I recognize it's partly my use, switching to so many different railed devices.
 
I switch around a lot also ... but not usually in the same trip to the field. So I find I don't have to move the PVS-30 in the field much. That said, I have done it ... and the only issue was the latch was tight. So I had to use a little more "umpf" to open it. Better a little tight than a little loose.

My general intent, is that for a given outing, I would be running the 30 on one gun. So I can set it up to run on that gun before the outing and then stuff the 30 in the soft case and connect to my gear, then I'm ready to go. I can remove it from the case, mount it and shoot in the field. The stow it back in the case if needed for a long position change. Last night, I mounted it to the rifle in the house and rolled around on te 4-wheeler heading to various spots leaving it mounted. I did have to be careful because my 2 new lens covers had not arrived yet and I have no lens cover. But I was careful. And no damage.
 
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Got the brown lenscaps in. They look... like you'd expect

2018-08-06 11.13.43.jpg


Exactly the same as the black one I have, just new. Not shown, but the bottom relief is not so much chewed up as badly molded. The part number does end in "-1" so they are cataloged differently, so that's interesting.


One note... they are not especially well engineered as far as picking the rubber. Maybe this is why they are surplussed? Because, they let light through. Now, not MUCH light. You cannot tell when pointing at something bright or not. But, turn on the power and the eyepiece will glow green, instead of not at all when the black cover is on.

I choose to think this as a feature, not a bug. I like daylight pinholes for full function check (if not zeroing etc), and think this helps to confirm that the system is operating, like the batteries are good, without popping off the cap with it ON during the day.

But, some may worry about that and hate this. For them I say: make it light proof. Add a layer of something (even just lots of black tape) to the back side, where no one can see it.


Boy does the new one make my original look bad now.
 
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I do my day checks in the closet ... where it is more than sufficiently dark. I have a blanket in there I use to cover the gap between the door and the carpet. Thanks for finding these and sharing ! I hope to get mine tomorrow :)
My "new" one didn't even come with a lens cover, so I will consume one of the "spares" right away. I'm glad I got two ! I probably would've anyway, that's how I usually think. But thanks for thinking the same way first, to help me remember how I think :D
 
I have it on good authority that you do not want to use the pin hole covers. Unless you like black spots right in the center of your vision...

I don't know how long it takes for that to happen, but at least one well known schoolhouse had quite a problem after using the pinholes for a bit.
 
Thanks Shoo !!!
I also got Two !!!
:D
There were 10, 7 sold, 3 remaining !!
Yeah mine looked like a dog took a bite out of it ... hard to believe it was intentional !!! But really glad Shoo found some replacements !!

Shit, guess I'm late. I did score an ARD off there. He'll let 'em go for $10 less if you ask. One of these days I'll get a good score on Gov.liquidators and set my ass up too.

The portion missing at the bottom? It's supposed to be like that so it won't interfere with the rail. I wonder if the decision to do that was after the fact though because it doesn't look "made" like that.

I have it on good authority that you do not want to use the pin hole covers. Unless you like black spots right in the center of your vision...

I don't know how long it takes for that to happen, but at least one well known schoolhouse had quite a problem after using the pinholes for a bit.

Yeah, been told to not use these except in total darkness by KAC. You shouldn't use any NODs in light but the pin hole in 14's is pretty common and I've never had a problem (and I'll never put mine through what I did the issued ones either). You'll notice these clip ons don't have that though.

I think they have the same ITT Pinnacle tube used in the 14's, so I'm not sure why the big difference. But that's what they say.
 
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I just got my two "knock off" PVS-30 lens covers ... Shoob needs to tell the guy who makes them to improve the pastic mix he is using. I torn one of them. I got it on and was then "adjusting" it to open to the side (which I need to do to leave the path open for the RAPTARs and Radiae I mount on 12 over the scope. But, since I got two, I got out the other one a put it on in a super careful manner. Unfortunately, I treated the first one like a real PVS-30 cover. It was not !
 
Picked up a couple of the tan covers, nice find. (y)

On a side note, I'm starting to think FOM # is almost worthless in actual use. I compared a few PVS-30's with FOM's at (+/- a few on the tail end) 1619, 1840, and 1870 and the best looking two were the 1619 and 1840. Between the 1619 and the 1840 I can't spot a difference, but they both looked better to my eyes and my friend's eyes over the 1880 FOM.
 
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If you are as cheap as me, you may like this. Flip cap sized perfectly for the back end (I hesitate on a clipon to call it "occular") for all of $2.45.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-5-69mm-Rifle-Scope-Protector-Cover-Flip-Up-Quick-Spring-Telescopic-Lens-Cap/332567590128?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=541664594504&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Size 53 mm

I got it in, and it's really very nice quality, fits perfectly. Snug but not so hard it is deformed or is impossible to remove.

2018-08-13 11.20.19.jpg



Still working on better objective covers
 
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I just purchased a Grade-A refurb unit from a newly released batch. Noticed right away that the on/off operating knob appears to be the original PVS-26 cap which is completely smooth. I have decent dexterity but, even my fingers slide around while simply function testing on/off. I’m surprised Knight’s didn’t upgrade to the scalloped cap during the refurb.

Anyone else have this issue? Most units that I have seen posted in the past appear to have the upgraded scalloped cap.

Going to see if KAC will swap it out

90D296E5-F53E-40D1-8FAB-EF04F5C5C9DC.jpeg
 
I just purchased a Grade-A refurb unit from a newly released batch. Noticed right away that the on/off operating knob appears to be the original PVS-26 cap which is completely smooth. I have decent dexterity but, even my fingers slide around while simply function testing on/off. I’m surprised Knight’s didn’t upgrade to the scalloped cap during the refurb.

Anyone else have this issue? Most units that I have seen posted in the past appear to have the upgraded scalloped cap.

Going to see if KAC will swap it out

View attachment 6935657

Smooth knob on mine...

4FD65D7C-0E3A-48A3-9B21-AE1821D62F7B.png
 
Curious about your day scope parallax setting with one of these clipped on. Do you dial it as normal or set it at infinity and dont worry about it? I dont own one yet and cant seem to download a manual. As the specs say the PVS30 is good from 20 meters to infinity, is that limited by the day scopes minimum parallax setting or some combo of that and the focus ring on the 30?
 
parallax is null and void with a clip on. your focusing on an image a couple inches from the objective lens. it may change the image crispness a touch but there is no parallax shift to remove.
 
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The manual that came w/ the 30 I had said to set it at or near infinite, IIRC. It did help w/ image crispness a little bit. I just got used to attaching the clip-on and setting the parallax all the way out before shooting. Never experienced any shifts w/ it that I thought could be due to parallax errors.
 
To address the few comments about these being PVS-26 rebuilt I don't have a definite answer but I have seen one come in with the case being marked PVS-26.
This makes a lot more sense after seeing these comments.

I had a 1600ish FOM unit and now have an 1862 FOM. I haven't taken the new unit out much but from what I can tell I don't notice a difference.
I've never been able to compare two units with different ratings side by side.
 
To address the few comments about these being PVS-26 rebuilt I don't have a definite answer but I have seen one come in with the case being marked PVS-26.
This makes a lot more sense after seeing these comments.

I had a 1600ish FOM unit and now have an 1862 FOM. I haven't taken the new unit out much but from what I can tell I don't notice a difference.
I've never been able to compare two units with different ratings side by side.

do you have a picture of the top plate on the 26?
 
Well. broke down and bought one. Talked to Eurovision and they had a 1990 fom which on its way here. I know you need good glass, but this made upgrading my sight have to wait.

I have a gen 1 Vortex viper PST 6-24x50 on one rifle and a Bushnell LRHSi 4.5-18X44 G2H on another. Will I lose a lot of resolution with these?

BTW this site is better at emptying my bank than any JEEP one.
 
Well. broke down and bought one. Talked to Eurovision and they had a 1990 fom which on its way here. I know you need good glass, but this made upgrading my sight have to wait.

I have a gen 1 Vortex viper PST 6-24x50 on one rifle and a Bushnell LRHSi 4.5-18X44 G2H on another. Will I lose a lot of resolution with these?

BTW this site is better at emptying my bank than any JEEP one.
Your not going to be disappointed, now do your homework for a quality torch.
 
I just got my two "knock off" PVS-30 lens covers ... Shoob needs to tell the guy who makes them to improve the pastic mix he is using. I tore one of them. Unfortunately, I treated the first one like a real PVS-30 cover. It was not!

It is probably a real PVS-30 cover. I once tore a brand new cover on an issue unit while simply pulling the cover up to expose the objective lens. The soft plastic split where one of the two sidebars attach to the lens cover and that was that. It isn't a great design and the plastic is too fragile. I wish they used something more like rubber.

I'm also wondering why these are being called PVS-30s. All of our PVS-30s were desert tan and our PVS-26s were black, and like some have mentioned these have PVS-26 power switches. The data plates that say PVS-30 in this thread all look brand new even when the scopes look a bit worn. Additionally, PVS-30s have this cool little screw-out, reversible battery cap which lets the device use either A-123 batteries or AAs unlike the trapdoor battery cap I'm seeing. I'm guessing KAC refurbished PVS-26s to PVS-30 specifications, slapped a new data plate on them, and are selling them as cross-dressing PVS-30s. I would love to know the truth behind the matter.
 
Brand new "PVS-30" data plate on a worn, black scope with a PVS-26 power switch and PVS-26 battery cap:

View attachment 6935657

Pristine data plate with a worn PVS-26 power switch:

View attachment 6935782

there were two iterations of the pvs-30. the first verison still maintained the 2 AA battery housing. my unit has the scalloped knob. the latest units were tan with new battery housing .

the data tag installed on the refurb units is new and they created them for ITAR and obvious record retention on data of the unit the mil units dont have or come with .
 
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Jesus I have been on this site for 1 day and it’s already about to cost me $5k. Does anyone have first hand experience with Europtocs and these refurbs? Sorry if it’s already been discussed I read through a lot of this thread. Only thing I don’t like is only a 1 year warranty. I think TNVC offers 10 years on their refurbs.
 
Brand new "PVS-30" data plate on a worn, black scope with a PVS-26 power switch and PVS-26 battery cap:

View attachment 6935657

Pristine data plate with a worn PVS-26 power switch:

View attachment 6935782

Just a heads up, If you do not like the smooth power/gain operating knob. I asked Knights if they would replace it with the scalloped version and they completed everything free of charge. I just had them send me an RMA and paid shipping both ways. Had it back in under 10 days!