How do you guys adjust eye relief for different positions. Prone seems straight forward but lowering power to minimum while on the move with possible 30 meter shots vs prone full magnification, cold weather gear vs t shirt etc. I hunt and often get snap shots up close. Is this a no right answer question. I’m about to install a new optic with 3x15 with eye Relief 3.8 to 4.2 . Just wondering what you guys do.
Rifle Scopes Eye Relief adjustment
- Thread starter CcoFirst
- Start date
I always set up the rifles optic to favor the position it’s fired from the most.
My main 260 is mostly fired prone so it’s set up in an almost perfect prone feel with a slight adaptation to help with bench/field use.
My other 260 is kinda setup more for hunting and bench use as is my AR’s
My main 260 is mostly fired prone so it’s set up in an almost perfect prone feel with a slight adaptation to help with bench/field use.
My other 260 is kinda setup more for hunting and bench use as is my AR’s
Yeah all my hunting rifles are awkward in prone or bench. Always having to move my head forward. Prone is hard for me as is, being old I guess. Cheek riser helped quite a bit.
Set each rifle up for the position and magnification it will be used at the most, if eye relief is picky.
If you get a lot of snap shots and you run the optic mostly on low power, then set up the rifle so when you shoulder it standing (or however), it comes up as quickly and easily to a good sight picture as possible.
I set most of my rifles up either sitting or kneeling and square to the rifle. As I spend most of my time shooting positionally for practice or at matches.
When prone, the rifle isn’t exactly set up perfect, but prone is when I have time to move my head or whatever I need to make it work.
For what it’s worth, without a fully adjustable stock such as the AX that can be adjusted on the fly, most rifles will never be perfect for all positions......prone, unsupported, or positionally. So you pick where you will be shooting the most and/or the one where you have the least amount of time to adjust to, and set the rifle up for that.
If you get a lot of snap shots and you run the optic mostly on low power, then set up the rifle so when you shoulder it standing (or however), it comes up as quickly and easily to a good sight picture as possible.
I set most of my rifles up either sitting or kneeling and square to the rifle. As I spend most of my time shooting positionally for practice or at matches.
When prone, the rifle isn’t exactly set up perfect, but prone is when I have time to move my head or whatever I need to make it work.
For what it’s worth, without a fully adjustable stock such as the AX that can be adjusted on the fly, most rifles will never be perfect for all positions......prone, unsupported, or positionally. So you pick where you will be shooting the most and/or the one where you have the least amount of time to adjust to, and set the rifle up for that.
Thanks for the info, that’s kinda what I thought . Prone is for target/ time to adjust to situation but off hand is for killing hogs, deer with a second or two to do.
Short answer: as close as you can get it to your eye without smacking yourself in the face with recoil with your head in its natural position while standing/sitting. If you’re hunting you’re likely shooting a moderate sized cartridge in a light gun. My 6BR and 223 is set very close to my face to allow for shots in odd positions while free recoiling. My 300wsm is set further forward for obvious reasons.
Thanks. I will take the great advice on this from you and others. It’s an 8.5 Lb 30-06 so I will set the ER to prone and may have to compromise on the offhand. Gonna move it tonight and take it for a test this weekend if the Tropical storm moves west of here that is.
I got a new scope, got it sighted in, after realizing it was hitting the bottom of the cantilever mount. After fixing the mount and moving the scope back an inch, I had to rezero my elevation about 6 clicks. Not a big deal, sighting in a scope should only take 5-6 rounds so long as your on paper.
Start in the prone. Move the scope as far back to the rear of the rifle as you can. Put the magnification on max power. Have the scope tight enough in the rings not to slip with out force but no more. Adjust to fit. Then move through the various positions. If done correctly you should at most be moving the scope slightly forward. Once finished, check your prone again. Tighten down and your done.
Now check the scope in the same positions with your normal power setting. It should all work out correctly. If not, you have a scope issue, operator error, or length of pull issue. It’s not un common to find through this method that your length of pull is incorrect. For positional shooting the standard 13.5” is seldom correct, reguardless of how tall you are. Neck length and mobility have a lot to do with how you get behind a rifle.
Hope this helps.
Now check the scope in the same positions with your normal power setting. It should all work out correctly. If not, you have a scope issue, operator error, or length of pull issue. It’s not un common to find through this method that your length of pull is incorrect. For positional shooting the standard 13.5” is seldom correct, reguardless of how tall you are. Neck length and mobility have a lot to do with how you get behind a rifle.
Hope this helps.
I get the perfect eye relief for prone at max power. Then I check standing and sitting. If it works for all three I lock it in. If one needs some adjustment I compromise a little depending on what I’m most likely to be doing. After that I make sure lowest power isn’t weird. Most of my scopes/rifles my initial prone setting works for me.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're saying but I do not agree with your suggestion here, each scope (usually) is different with regard to eye relief, but beyond that also has a particular eyebox - that sweet-spot that allows some forgiveness when it comes to eye position. Most scopes have the most finicky eyebox at the max magnification so I recommend you set your magnification to the top then place your scope on your rail and hand tighten the ring/mount screws (so the scope doesn't fall off) in a position you think is right, then close your eyes and bring the rifle to your natural hold and get your cheek-weld, now open you eyes - do you see the full/clear sight picture or do you see tunneling or shadowing within the view? If you do not get a clear sight picture then move your head forward or back, if you move your head forward it means the scope needs to come back on the rail and if you move your head back it means your scope must move forward on the rail. Loosen the screws and move your scope to the new position you think is right then hand tighten those screws again, close your eyes and repeat the process. Once you get your scope in what you believe is the proper position so that when you blindly bring the rifle to your natural hold, do it several more times to verify and once verified you are ready to torque your rings/mount to the rail. If you find that no position seems to work then it may mean you have to work on your hold because your natural hold should be the same most every time, it should be muscle memory to bring that rifle into your shoulder pocket and get your proper cheek-weld. If you dial back on magnification the eye box should only improve from there. With this method I have found that most positions still allow a good sight picture through my scope. One other caveat, if you see shadowing at the top or bottom it may mean your cheek height needs to be adjusted up or down (if you do not have an adjustable riser or do not have a stock pack then you will need to get different rings to raise or lower the scope). The images below are intended to give you an idea of what I mean by shadowing, your natural hold should give you the clearest sight picture each and every time.
Now, with regard to the General's post above, if you've done all this and you're shooting a 338 Lapua (or something with a big kick) and you're getting smacked in the brow from the ocular of the scope, then you probably need to find a scope with longer eye relief.
This is exactly the method. I will use. This forum is by far the. Best i have come across. I since im getting info from ones who know not BS snide comments from young guys with a chip on shoulder. Much appreciated
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