Rifle Scopes Favorite Anti-Cant (Again)

treillw

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Minuteman
Mar 3, 2017
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I read though a few of these old threads. Accuracy first seems to be a top choice and I think I'm leaning that way. Anything else similar or better to consider?

Thanks!
 
I'll probably get shade for mine, but I use lonestar precision bubble levels. They are alright, Amazon has em for 20 bux. I will probably get an accuracy first level soon. But I'm not really concerned about it. As long as the reticle is true, the bubble level between my ears works pretty good.
 
your eyes/brain? and they dont cost a thing, unless you need glasses/contacts


i don't know about other people, but a perfectly level reticle looks crooked to me 100% of the time. i can confirm this by putting my face on the other side of the stock and look through my other eye and it looks canted the other way.

therefore, without a bubble level, my mind tells me to tilt the gun to the left to get a "visibly level" reticle. but it's actually canted a few degrees - enough to make a big miss at distance. so i NEED a bubble level to ensure i'm holding everything level.
 
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Hawkins Precision rings have the bubble level in the top ring. Really like that as its fool proof to set up and less clutter crap on the scope. and its perfect to the action.

inline. the bottom scope has a burris made level. they are the most compact ive seen. some people put the inline one on rear, but it kind of blocks my view of the turret. Not bad but my OCD hates it. LOL.

XTR3 - LS.jpg



offset is what I prefer tho.
2019 OK Team match 2.JPG





GL
DT
 
Bubble levels are a lot cheaper than the A1st ones, my friend sold his because the ball kept getting "stuck" occasionally.

Even the bubbles will be a few degrees off... though better than nothing IMO.

The lowest cost one that doesn't damage your scope would be great. They're not exactly the same as making a scope track in terms of tech.
 
I was looking for the link before I replied but couldn’t find it. There’s a video out there where they put a A1st lever and I believe a Tubb level side by side. When they canted the rifle a few degrees the Tubb level moved and the A1st did not. Grated that’s a sample of one each. When I get a chance I’m going to try a friends A1st level vs a Vortex. I like levels for alternate positions or when I don’t shoot for a while.
 
i don't know about other people, but a perfectly level reticle looks crooked to me 100% of the time. i can confirm this by putting my face on the other side of the stock and look through my other eye and it looks canted the other way.

therefore, without a bubble level, my mind tells me to tilt the gun to the left to get a "visibly level" reticle. but it's actually canted a few degrees - enough to make a big miss at distance. so i NEED a bubble level to ensure i'm holding everything level.
Me to
 
My two criteria are that the bubble level is BIG and that it is SENSITIVE. Big so I can see easily, sensitive so that any tiny movement of the gun makes the bubble level respond immediately. I've seen smaller bubble levels where there was a delay in the bubble moving after you canted the gun... like the bubble was moving through thick corn syrup or something. The accuracy first ones don't seem sensitive enough to my eye.

The original Vortex bubble level does both well, plus it's relatively cheap.
 
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I just tested out a Long Range Arms Send It electronic level yesterday. I had it set on the most sensitive setting and it worked great. The biggest thing I noticed was when the Vortex scope mounted bubble level was still fairly centered, the Send It was showing the rifle was not quite level. Another nice feature is the Send It can be mounted vertically or horizontally. I mounted mine horizontally on the rear of the handguard and it was extremely easy to see with my left eye while looking through the scope with my right eye.
 
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$18 for 2 on Amazon. Surprisingly, very decent quality. Wish they sold a 34mm model.
7097023

Looks like a slightly modified copy of Holland's Signature Scope Level. It even uses a circlip to retain the bubble vile.
7097033

Before I found these I used the Vortex levels.
 
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What's the easiest way to go about putting the tritium in the Accuracy 1st?

Worth adding for twilight?
There was a good YouTube vid of a guy ordering a generic tritium vile and putting it in the slot where the rubber plug is.

Personally I’m not taking a shot far enough out to need a level at last light.
 
i don't know about other people, but a perfectly level reticle looks crooked to me 100% of the time. i can confirm this by putting my face on the other side of the stock and look through my other eye and it looks canted the other way.

therefore, without a bubble level, my mind tells me to tilt the gun to the left to get a "visibly level" reticle. but it's actually canted a few degrees - enough to make a big miss at distance. so i NEED a bubble level to ensure i'm holding everything level.


My scope reticle always looks canted... first left, then right then left again, if I stare at it too long.....
 
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I can't decide whether to get the Accuracy 1st or a vortex. I can see that a traditional level is more accurate and responsive, as I have read a lot of places online people say they are more sensitive. Air bubble levels are used to construct virtually everything as well - so they do the job.

I do like the tritium idea since it's going on a rifle which I will use for predator hunting and might shoot at night. Otherwise I'd just get the vortex.
 
I can't decide whether to get the Accuracy 1st or a vortex. I can see that a traditional level is more accurate and responsive, as I have read a lot of places online people say they are more sensitive. Air bubble levels are used to construct virtually everything as well - so they do the job.

I do like the tritium idea since it's going on a rifle which I will use for predator hunting and might shoot at night. Otherwise I'd just get the vortex.
I’ve had both.

Personally I feel the accuracy 1st is far better.

3x the price better?
No.

Little ball it really sensitive without being touchy.
 
I always recommend to do a (tall target test). I once had a scope riser on my Barrett. I was to cheap to buy another scope mount. Well, I was getting terrible groups at 1000 yards. So I did a tall target test and found out that the riser was not level and had to buy another scope mount. Going cheap cost me about $200.00 in ammo. Another bone head move on my part.
 
My scope reticle always looks canted... first left, then right then left again, if I stare at it too long.....

This is exactly how I am.
I know I can get it close by what "feels" level, but everytime I mount a scope I mount it with a plumb and dead level it "feels" canted so I know my sense of level isnt 100% correct.

I also notice it with photography. I shoot it naturally, and then the horizon line needs tweaked ever so slightly.
Does the tiny bit that I'm canting it matter? I couldnt tell you, but I would much rather have the Accuracy First level and know that its perfect before I take long shots.
 
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I got an angle finder that's accurate to well less than a degree, as that's what the claim to fame on some of those expensive levels are. Happy to report mine is sensitive to that same amount, I'd happily put mine up against an Accuracy First any day! The pin makes it easy to line up IMO. The Amazon ones are fine but....personally I like to support US made.

I offer a 'hide discount and support the forum as well ;)

 

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Love my MK Machining one. Good size, weight, position, sensitivity, dampening, everything. And, a hide guy! Shop local!

Since some have mentioned it: No, your eyes and brain will absolutely fool you. A slightly not level horizon makes you think that's level. So, if shooting far enough out a couple degrees of cant will kill the shot: you need a level. I am real good at doing things like drawing straight lines, making things level in my house and... was totally missing out past 600 yds because I was canting the gun ever so slightly.

(I am a human factors engineer, do research on physiology and ergonomics. )
 
I'll throw my pic level in the ring with the scope levels. You're looking at just over $45 shipped for hide members with code "sh10" at checkout. Nice protected vial, optimal level visibility without sticking out a long ways: