Looking for pics of your range setup for a vise to swap barrels... trailer hitch or however you do it... or a link to a thread discussing this.
Thanks,
Scott
Thanks,
Scott
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Correct. I actually got the idea from @NiteQwill. Works great.I can’t remover the thread but I believe @DeathBeforeDismount uses the SAC vise and plate on his hitch.
This looks awesome.Correct. I actually got the idea from @NiteQwill. Works great.
Amazon product ASIN B06X6KPNSD
Modular Barrel Vise – Single Bushing Kit
Includes: Modular Barrel Vise, ARCA mounting base, and a single bushing of your choice. Note: The Vise, Bushings, and ARCA Mounting base may have marks or discolorations from the machining and/or annodizing processes. This is normal, and by no means a flaw in the Vise or the components...shortactioncustoms.com
And a 2 big cap head bolts (3/8 or 5/8th, cant remember) that fit into recess of the vise base.
Cheap but works.
Viper vise $60ish
2” aluminum square tube $5ish
2 bolts, nuts, spacers $5ish
View attachment 8139988View attachment 8139989
So I guess then you can just torque it with a rear entry action wrench as opposed to the clamp style?
How do you stabilize the rear when you are torquing the barrel? Like you said, you keep it at about 60 ft/lb, so not as bad as 90 or soI guess I should add make sure you aren’t torquing the action in the chassis while you do it. So don’t grab the chassis to help with the twisting motion.
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SOLUS Barrel Vise Kit
Shop our SOLUS Barrel Vise Kit and more at AeroPrecisionUSA.com!www.aeroprecisionusa.com
I’ve never worried too much about it. I use a leather strip with some rosin sprinkled on it to grip the barrel in the vice. I throw it on hand-tight, lock the barrel in the vice, stick the action wrench in and torque it using an 18” torque wrench from Home Depot. I guess the chassis assembly is kind of hanging on the barrel at that point. If I was to have the vice bolted to a tube sticking out of my hitch receiver, then the weight of the whole thing would be hanging on the vice. And it does not matter one single bit where the barrel vice is in relation to the tenon. There’s no way you’re twisting or harming that barrel under hand pressure with any kind of normal size wrench.How do you stabilize the rear when you are torquing the barrel? Like you said, you keep it at about 60 ft/lb, so not as bad as 90 or so
Scott
Just checked. MAP Aero is $260. SAC is $275 for the Bravo kit.Would have liked to see this come under the SAC vise price point. Not sure the reason to go with this one over the SAC kit? If I’m not mistaken, the SAC is even cheaper for the full kit.
Gotcha, I knew the SAC price but just went off the link you posted for the aero. Don’t get me wrong, competition is good and hopefully it will cause one of them to lower in price, as a consumer I’m just not sure I would go with the aero (at basically the same price) rather than one that’s already established. Aero has always been a upper budget line of products. Not knocking it at all, just mainly wondering if it offered any improvements. Looks like they both come with the same amount of bushings and the arca plate.Just checked. MAP Aero is $260. SAC is $275 for the Bravo kit.
Tons of F-class guys have glued in actions and grab the barrel really far out. Most of them shooting very heavy barrels but with anything decent weight I wouldn't worry about it.Always take the action out. Two reasons, One , most bushings will grip best at the No taper area right near breach. Second, you are torquing the shit out of the barrel like 15-26 inches from the threads. May not do anything but im not risking a $800 barrel becuase I am too lazy to spend an extra 3 minutes taking the stock off and retorquing everything.