Finding a node without Labradar

Oldmauser

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2018
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or magnetospeed. Is it possible to find a node using a paper punching method and looking at vertical strings of shots as described in one of the threads? Is it reliable?
 
You could to an Optimal Charge Weight (OCW) test that in mentioned above (edited to remove the link that was already shared)


I have also found that this article has good information as well...

 
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Thanks for the primal rights article. I understand the method, but correct interpretation of results might be an issue.
I ended up using graph paper initially to help me see the difference, the changes are minimal. Now I use the Ballistic-X app to measure the target and tell me how much the strings of shots vary
 
You could to an Optimal Charge Weight (OCW) test that in mentioned above (edited to remove the link that was already shared)
Bump

I have also found that this article has good information as well...

 
you are right and way experienced than I am. If you have similar patterns for each charge weights, how do you determine which one to pick as "the charge weight"?
 
you are right and way experienced than I am. If you have similar patterns for each charge weights, how do you determine which one to pick as "the charge weight"?
I look for the "flat spot" and then pick a charge weight depending on the weather the day I shoot it.

For example, if it is a really hot day, I choose a charge higher within the flat spot (I think that's right), If it is colder I choose a lower charge still within the flat spot. this allows a little temperature/pressure variation for my loads giving me more wiggle room for a good load.
 
Distance. A chrono helps find a node without shooting way out there as it's not always an easy, controllable option. Once you get out far enough (what that means depends on what you're shooting), try a few different loads that shot well on paper at 100 and see what they do. If you've got little more vertical dispersion than what you'd expect closer in (measured in angle, not distance obviously), then chances are you've found a node.
 
you are right and way experienced than I am. If you have similar patterns for each charge weights, how do you determine which one to pick as "the charge weight"?
If by "patterns" you mean group shapes, then you are doing it wrong. Group size/shape has nothing to do with OCW.
 
$10 says no one can correctly tell us what the “satterlee method” is.
It's where you load up 10 rounds just off your max charge to indicate where your optimal charge should be based on velocity, and then you spend 75 more rounds confirming and second guessing yourself until you settle... trust me, I am doing it perfectly.
 
@Skookum pls kindly show me how to properly interpret the results in the ocw - I read the the theory and I thought it is uncomplicted method but when I started to watch youtube videos on ocw, I started to doubt it.
 
Here is the target that I created for doing OCW testing. The lines help me to see the variations in the groups, and the dots are .75"
 

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@Skookum pls kindly show me how to properly interpret the results in the ocw - I read the the theory and I thought it is uncomplicted method but when I started to watch youtube videos on ocw, I started to doubt it.
Shoot your charge progression at dots on a straight line, left to right, low charge to high charge.

You will see your group centers rise and fall in relation to that line. There will usually be 2 or 3 groups that not only have the same relative height, but will likely group at the same clock position from point of aim.

These differences are much easier to discern if you draw a line from group center to group center and also from grouo center to point of aim.

All this much easier to see if POI is offset 1 or 2 moa from POA.
 
you are right and way experienced than I am. If you have similar patterns for each charge weights, how do you determine which one to pick as "the charge weight"?
What you are looking for is where a series of close charge weights impact in the same position on target relative to their point of aim. The point being that when you throw a tad high or low or the temp is hotter or colder it doesn’t suddenly shift where it’s actually shooting. We want a stable area where slight changes don’t have substantial changes down range.
What would suck is to have a great load created but that goes to crap when 20 degrees colder because it’s not stable. We want the bullet to always be hitting at the same spot no matter the conditions. Once you’ve identified that spot you can then alter seating depth to make those groups smaller.
 
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OCW.

Hell you can use weaponized math to dope your rifle out to 1000 and match it up with your ballistic app to get a close estimate of MV. You don’t NEED a Chrono. They just make things easier.
 
It's where you load up 10 rounds just off your max charge to indicate where your optimal charge should be based on velocity, and then you spend 75 more rounds confirming and second guessing yourself until you settle... trust me, I am doing it perfectly.


🤣🤣🤣 You described my process perfectly ..........