Suppressors First .308 Suppressor Design

Turbofx4

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Minuteman
Mar 17, 2014
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9.875" OAL... 1.625" OD... 1.125" ID... 3.318 lbs

Can, end caps, blast baffle & first two (2) K baffles will be 304 StSt... the last three (3) K baffles will be 6063 AL.

Thoughts?







I know I'm a newb, so try not to tear me apart too badly. ;)
 
Stay away from aluminum baffles. Also K's are a great design but don't work very well with high pressure rounds. Not saying they can't withstand the blast, just not as effective as say a cone baffle. Also I would loose the diffuser before the blast baffle. It works great on low pressure rounds but on 308 it wouldn't be worth the weight. Coaxial space is effecient only when you can steer the gases into that space. The weight of the can is pretty significant, what is your host? Also are you planning on only using subsonic rounds or shooting mainly full house rounds? Not trying to knock your design just based off experience I think there is some room for improvement. Remember once you pay the stamp you're with this silencer until death do you part. Might as well perfect it before you start cutting metal.
 
Nope, rather you "knock it" before I cut chips! I'm more than willing to accept and run with constructive criticism if it will improve the fit/form & function.

It's going to be mounted on a Mossberg MVP Patrol chambered for 7.62. Loads I plan on shooting out of it are my own reloads... 150gr Spitzer or FMJ's.

Instead of the diffuser, are you recommending more baffles? K's or otherwise?

Thanks in advance for the tips HK.
 
Wasn't going to weld it. Want the "ease of cleaning/repair" to be there.

Was wondering about wall thickness... kept seeing/hearing differing thoughts.
 
Your baffles and tube can be thinner and as mentioned, stay away from aluminium. 60 degree cone baffles are a solid performer for centerfire suppressors and can be spaced a lot closer. What you got there looks more like a pistol can to me.
 
If I stay with the threaded ends, as opposed to welded... what is the min thickness of the can wall and cones I should go? How far can/should the cones be spaced and what length blast baffle?

JJ, I saw your design the other day while researching and liked the simplicity.

Sorry if I'm asking a lot of 'newb' questions... but that's what I am. I'm a machinist by trade and a Manuf. Eng Tech now, so thinking outside the box isn't an issue... just want this to be a safe and solid design. Like HK said... once it's done... it's done.
 
I've been using K baffles for high pressure cans for some time and they work great. I've also got a can with cone type baffles and I can't tell the difference between them sound wise. The cone baffle can is lighter though and that makes a difference. As others have noted mixing aluminum and steel baffles isn't really a good idea. Making a take-apart can is a waste of time for a centerfire can. If you weld it you can thin things out. Remember the thread depth effectively cuts the wall thickness down. . . Also take into consideration the number of rounds you intend to fire at any one time. If its a shoot and cool thing you can go thinner than if you were planning on doing rapid fire. Heat reduces the strength of the material so the hotter it gets the stronger it needs to be.

Good luck and its your experiment. Do what you want....have fun.

Frank
 
More baffles. You're trying to "shave" as much of the gasses away from the bore as possible. The two ways you can accomplish this is with great machining in the form of tight tolerances and length. There comes a point of diminishing returns so I think your overall length it GTG. Stuff more baffles in there. I'd try to stay away from the threaded end caps but it's been done before. And if you want to shoot lead cast bullets it will allow you to clean. Another option would be to go with a monocore design and just have the monocore threaded at one end. See Thompson Machine or look at AAC Prodigy. With monocores you could use a "M" type baffle design and get creative to accomplish your goals of being able to dissasemble. Others brought up the wall thickness issue. There's a lot of great resources out there and google patents are a great place to start. Look up Brügger & Thomet, Ase Utra, Surefire, Barry Duek, and just start reading. Warning it will be extremely addicting. Good luck!
 
Yeah, newb, whatever, you ask a good question like this and you tend to get good answers on here. Welcome to the Hide! It's unique here, that's a fact. We only run off the juvenile or mall warrior types or the type that ask for "strange" advice.

Now to topic:

All of these guys have great and solid advice. No take apart, not needed for rifle --in fact, Liberty stopped making some of their cans take apart because cleaning them and reassembly somehow caused the baffles to get out of alignment and caused lots of baffle strikes. Really shouldn't be using aluminum in suppressors at all these days, except in narrow conditions. No diffuser, just the blast baffle (and if you swing making that out of Inconel, that'd be ideal). That shit won't wear easy, and it'll make the can last a lot longer if you use one. The rest of the parts, 316 stainless is tough as shit AND fairly light considering. An Inconel/316 setup is what AAC uses, and despite their shitty mount, the can itself is really well made and sounds good too. No Inconel, no problem, just use 316 throughout. And you may be able to use titanium as the tube, since it sounds like you wanna save weight. But I don't know how you go about welding that to steel.

As for what type of baffle to use, well, whatever you use, use 316. I reckon other guys on here are more up to speed on what baffle geometry is best.

I know if I had my shop setup, this is what I'd be doing. As for welding, well, I know nearly nothing about that, other than a circumferential welding process is desired? So perhaps you may have to farm that out. I don't know, I likely would have to.

How did you other guys weld your cans together?

Good luck, and watch that run out when checking threads or threading a barrel, and/or when threading the can itself.
 
316 is plenty for a bolt rifle , you will wear out a couple barrels before you wear out a can.
I honestly think that using a good hard aluminum like 7075 or 7068 for baffles would work fine , just use SS for the first few and by the time the gas has gotten to the 4th baffle its temperature and velocity have dropped dramatically.
If you look at proven can designs you will see alot of variants , some only have 3-4 baffles some have a dozen , the current AAC Cyclone uses 8-9 cones evenly spaced the TBAC 30 cal can uses 9 cones , AAC uses some stamped in flutes , TBAC uses milled helical type grooves , SRT uses stepped cones. The guts I've seen from a Shark use slightly shallower cones. All these cans work great.
 
I make mine were the end caps are a sleeved press fit up to a beveled shoulder , the tube is also beveled. I tack the caps to the tube 90 deg apart "the four corners" then I run a fusion pass all the way around with no filler wire only the metal from tje tube and cap i'll let it cool down for a few min then buff it off with a wire wheel. I then run a filler bead all the way around with 1/8" 316 tig wire