Hi everyone, I am new here and I’m trying to get into long range shooting. I currently shoot out to 400yds with my LR308 build but looking to push out to 1000yds or more, and I would like to build my first bolt gun. So far, I am pretty sure 6.5 creed is the way to go, unless anyone has better suggestions. I was thinking trigger tech diamond, and definitely a chassis, maybe MDT? I already have a Viper pst gen2 5-25x50 that I would probably steal off my lr308 for this build. A coworker recommended the impact 737r action, and a stuteville precision barrel. Is that overkill for my first bolt gun? Can I get something that will shoot just as good or similar for a lower price point? Sorry for all the words, just not sure where to start. Open to any and all suggestions/advice and it is greatly appreciated!
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
First long range bolt gun build
- Thread starter JaredT175
- Start date
There’s tons of threads on setups like you’re pursuing. Do some searching and you’ll find many answers and options
That said you won’t be disappointed in that setup and it would serve you well. You can get away with cheaper but your list above would be better than most
Watch the px here for parts as well. Can save some $$ and won’t loose anything if you try a few chassis etc along the way
That said you won’t be disappointed in that setup and it would serve you well. You can get away with cheaper but your list above would be better than most
Watch the px here for parts as well. Can save some $$ and won’t loose anything if you try a few chassis etc along the way
A recent similar post where the guy got some info.
www.snipershide.com
Long-range tactical rifle build recommendations
Hi all, I do not have any experience with building a rifle but I would like to create my long-range bolt-action tactical rifle, preferably in 6.5 Creedmoor (open to caliber suggestions). Could you provide me with some recommendations for the following? - Action - Barrel - Chassis (prefer the...
www.snipershide.com
Yeah, and burn out a barrel faster.
6.5CM really is THE easy button. Mild recoil, high BC ammo available to stretch it out to range, easily available loaded ammo (relatively speaking), and certainly easier on the barrel than 6CM.
No?
The GT is easier on barrels than the Creedmoor, but yeah the ammo is harder to get. I built a 6.5 Creedmoor for my son and he enjoys it. I built the 6 Creedmoor for my daughter,, built a 308 for me. Of the 3 the 6.5 is my least favorite, not sure why. The 308 is a scary accurate as are the other two. The 6 is just fun, accurate, almost no recoil, fast ( 105s at around 3100). Figure at the amount it will get shot barrel will last 2 years, already have a spare, not a big deal. The 6.5 just works, just not as exciting as the other two. All three are built the same ( impact, Bix’n Andi, Bartlein, Manners, ZCO).
I agree.
I think for a person getting into the game, the 6.5 Creedmoor is the way to go.
The 6GT at 3100 will not be easier on barrels than a 6.5 Creedmoor. The 6 Creed got it's barrel burner rep by people shooting it near 3200fps in matches so don't plan on long life pushing your 6GT at 3100fps. Stay in the 2950fps area with the 6mms and your life will go up unless you have a need to go fast.
The 6.5 Creedmoor is an excellent choice over any 6mm for a person getting into the sport and wanting his first rifle for the reason Baron mentioned. You get lower recoil, great ballistics and good barrel life. Also plenty of ammo and components out there for it.
Yeah, I wanted to put that in but lost that train of thought. The GT is easier on barrels than the Creedmoor but most find a happy place near the 2900s. At that point the barrel would probably last 1800-2000. The 6.5 will be in the 2600-3000 round mark. The 6.5 is easy, it is accurate, factory ammo is plentiful, hand load data all over the place. I was a Trigger Tech diamond addict, now I use Bix’n Andi Pro X. Triggers and stocks make a bigger impact than action.
Same old song, verse # 1,579,361
Best money you will ever spend is to take a class. Especially one that offers loaner rifles. It will save you a bundle and you will learn more in two days than you will learn in two years trying to teach yourself. Lots of good folks around here offer professional instruction.
Whether you intend to shoot competition or just shoot for fun or both, a good class will take you there a lot quicker. need some references, send me a pm.
Best money you will ever spend is to take a class. Especially one that offers loaner rifles. It will save you a bundle and you will learn more in two days than you will learn in two years trying to teach yourself. Lots of good folks around here offer professional instruction.
Whether you intend to shoot competition or just shoot for fun or both, a good class will take you there a lot quicker. need some references, send me a pm.
I shoot 2 stage triggers, but most it is the same for single stage. Trigger techs are precise, zero over travel and feel good. BnA triggers are more adjustable. You can adjust the weight and length of the first stage, adjust the weight of the second stage and the level of sear engagement. On the TT you can adjust the stage weight, but not the other two, it still feels great, but just not what I like. I appreciate a short, light first stage and then a crisp break and a bit of over travel to make follow through easier.
I never knew I liked them until one day I got to try one at the range, ordered a couple the next day.
I never knew I liked them until one day I got to try one at the range, ordered a couple the next day.
I did some reading on another thread and it seems people like the zermatt origin action. Seems like I could save some money going with that. What’s everyone’s thought on it and what barrel is best to pair it with?
Nothing at all wrong with the Origin. You can easily change bolt faces and it's a nice action with lots of prefits available. Patriot Valley Arms did the 6.5 Creedmoor prefit on my Origin now. Josh @bohem who owns PVA is here on the site.
Prefit Barrels with Osprey blanks
patriotvalleyarms.com
@JaredT175 we can make you a drop in that will shoot extremely well. Our Prefits have won more than a couple podium spots in the past decade and I made the first Origin prefits that ever hit the market, including the prototypes that were used in testing the action before it was announced. We've got the Origin and TL3 series process nailed down tight.
@Rob01 thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it!
@Rob01 thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it!
So I’m pretty sure I’ve settled to a final parts list for my build. Going to go with the origin action and an osprey prefit from pva. What’s the way to go for barrel contour? M24? And does fluting affect anything other than weight and appearance? I do really like the look of spiral fluting so if it doesn’t affect the barrel accuracy wise I’ll probably have it fluted.
Nope the fluting doesn't effect accuracy with the PVA barrels. I have my 6 ARC spiral fluted and it's very accurate. If you are getting it fluted go with the Proof Competition contour and the fluting will lighten it up some.
So, done right, fluting shouldn’t affect your results and fluted barrels surely are nice looking. But how often you shoot and have to replace barrels is a consideration. If only for learning and occasional range trips, I say go for it.
If you think you’ll get into competition or shoot very often, the extra cost for fluting is usually a casualty of the budget.
For your first one? Go for it. You’ll feel better about the results and it’ll suck you in.
Btw, I blame my LR308 for sucking me into the long range game, hook, line and sinker. It’s such a pleasure to shoot and is a tack driver with the right factory ammo.
If you think you’ll get into competition or shoot very often, the extra cost for fluting is usually a casualty of the budget.
For your first one? Go for it. You’ll feel better about the results and it’ll suck you in.
Btw, I blame my LR308 for sucking me into the long range game, hook, line and sinker. It’s such a pleasure to shoot and is a tack driver with the right factory ammo.
Awesome, that’s what I will go with then. That’s a sweet looking rifle, how many flutes is that?
Yup my LR308 is what’s dragging me in. It’s a lot of fun to hit steel with at 400 and very satisfied with the accuracy out of that faxon match barrel. The federal gold medal match 168smks do very well out of it.
That’s awesome man. How do you like the 6 ARC? Thinking of doing an ar build in that cartridge at some point.
If you’re going to flute it but still plan on PRS I might even go straight profile. If you plan on a finished length of 26" then the straight profile should be heavy enough so that you won't need to add much (if any) chassis weights.
I like HV or Comp contour at 28” because it balances well in my chassis’s with minimal chassis weights
I like HV or Comp contour at 28” because it balances well in my chassis’s with minimal chassis weights
Last edited:
Contours don’t cost extra, most places blanks are a standard price, add in the chamber/ muzzle thread, flutes and color if desired.
I got a PM asking about the flutes so I took a couple more pics so figured I would post them here. I have the barrel off my action now so easier to see it all.
I have a barrel coming from Bugholes that will have gain twist ( slower twist at muzzle, gets tighter at breach). Hope it looks as good as yours Rob!
Well jeepers willikerz partner, that’s also what I was talking about. So where’s your issue anyway? Or are you just being ornery?
I am using one right now. I also have an ESR which I like more, but have no real complaints about the BA Comp. Masterpiece arms takes about 6 weeks or so to get one to your door, depending on the finish chosen.
The ESR takes an MTU profile, the BA needs spacers. However, with MPA’s blessings, I shoot mine without a bridge. Don’t really miss it. Rifle balances fine without it and i never use the night bridge for anything. If you are buying, go with the ESR.
As always, NDIH
“People that worry about shooting out barrels never shoot out barrels.”
Got a couple of charts. You can read the numbers. When in doubt, call Woody at MPA, he probably has the definitive answer. My guess is yes, but I have never knowingly laid my eyes on a Proof Competition contour barrel, so, my opinion has ZERO Value. Call Woody if in doubt.
Yes. You just have to look at the MPA site under Specs and it says it can take up to a 1.25" barrel.
MPA BA ESR Chassis - MasterPiece Arms, Inc.
Please allow 8-12 weeks for delivery from date of order. Custom Cerakote Colors add $135 for the chassis body and $65 for the barreled action. Check with MP Edit snippet
masterpiecearms.com
Must’ve been personally offensive to you. The gist of it is if you’re worried about barrels this the wrong game they’re consumable. Also normally folks worried about a 300 dollar barely aren’t gonna shoot the $3600 in ammo to burn one up.
Now I'm throwing the BS flag, dude. It was not "personally offensive"....if it was, I'd fucking say so. Its just illogical and stupid shit and "we are all dumber for having read it".
And you are using $300 barrels....what are you shooting through...toilet paper rolls?
Good barrel and smith work is easily $800 and up and yes, Dorothy...some calibers burn out barrels in 800-1,000 rounds and some go 2,500-3,000, and even more in the case of .308, for example. To many this is an important consideration. In particular, someone like the OP who is getting into their first precision bolt rifle.
Have a great life....and go bother someone else.
I agree it is something to consider, but barrels are a consumable material just like bullets and primers. You add it all up and then set your budget.
If you worry about wearing out the barrel you will shoot less. If you shoot less, you will either not do as well or have a lot less fun, or both!
If you worry about wearing out the barrel you will shoot less. If you shoot less, you will either not do as well or have a lot less fun, or both!
Now, my friend...I have no argument with you. On the other hand, you didn't quote me and then contradict me. People can have all the different views that they like.....then just post them and leave me the fuck out of it.
Yes, barrels are consumable....so, if the degree of consumption is so incredibly unimportant, why don't you just tell the OP...for his first bolt action precision rifle....to get 22 CM and just chuck a $1,000 barrel in 800-1,000 rounds depending on how hot he runs it.
Automobiles are consumable too....doesn't mean I have to buy a POS Yugo or a Lada that would go belly up in 40K miles...or less.
See what I'm saying?
Cheers
Totally agree. I didn’t tell him that because it is not a beginner’s gun ( normally). I just feel that you should budget for the total cost and go in knowing that. In the long run ammo/Barrels will cost more than the rest of the expenses. When I was young and stupid I got hooked on 100yrd center fire benchrest and in 3 years had gone through 7 barrels, and was told I was holding on them too long. Just go in with eyes wide open, because before too long you are hooked!
You can certainly get good barrels for sub 400
very grumpy. My point was Jim Bob that by the time you’ve shot a 6 or 6.5 creed barrel out the cost of barrel and smith work which if it’s $1,000 you’re getting rawdogged, is so much less than the ammo cost that it’s really not even worth talking about. If you enjoy it enough to shoot one out you won’t have a problem un-assing some money for a new barrel. Boomers worry about barrel life to the point that they’re paralyzed with fear.
Hey I resemble that remark, I even own a 308
. I just hope to live long enough to wear out all the extra barrels I have around the house
