Gunsmithing First Muzle brake.
- Thread starter BigDaddy0381
- Start date
It shot very well, It too some recoil out and made things LOUD... I like it..
I took and cucked u the brake and found my center line of bore. I then used the dead stop on the lathe to hold a drill bit. Then opened it up to .368. installed the brake and triple checked the center line to make sure everything was straight and centered.
I'm not a machinist by a long shot but I'm learning.
I took and cucked u the brake and found my center line of bore. I then used the dead stop on the lathe to hold a drill bit. Then opened it up to .368. installed the brake and triple checked the center line to make sure everything was straight and centered.
I'm not a machinist by a long shot but I'm learning.
How did you indicate the barrel using a 3 jaw chuck and why not single point thread? Bores are rarely concentric with the barrel's OD.
While I agree single point threading is better if you indicate the bore then turn down outside concentric with the bore a die can be used to cut threads quite well if held properly. He also gave a large amount of wiggle room on bore size as he is .030 over bullet diameter which is alot. I run my brakes about .010 over bullet diameter as the more it is the less efficient the brake works.
.020 over is optimum for clearance and accuracy. .010 over is .005 per side...that pretty close. You might need to use some copper cleaner on your brake if its not absolutely perfect. lol.
I use a Grizzly carbide shank boring bar to bore all mine. The min bore on it is .236 and works pretty darn nice. The hole is then checked with an inside micrometer to make sure its right.
I use a Grizzly carbide shank boring bar to bore all mine. The min bore on it is .236 and works pretty darn nice. The hole is then checked with an inside micrometer to make sure its right.
.020 is optimal? Where did you come up with that? I would disagree with that as the less room around the bullet is the more efficient the brake will work. It has to be done right though and alignment is critical.
What do you believe is not safe about it? Please elaborate on this comment and explain why, just curious.
To start, don't ever use a die to thread it. If you like what you made, start marketing them. Problem is a kajillion other people are doing it. If for your own use / customers, have at it. I gave up making brakes as every swinging dick makes them. They have the monthly payment on the CNC macheens and I buy them for cheap. Scope rails, same story.
I owned a dive shop in the Fl Keys and it was the same story of salesmen everyday. They had a new gadget that was based on the same idea of yesteryear. Point is, your time is worth money, use it wisely.
I owned a dive shop in the Fl Keys and it was the same story of salesmen everyday. They had a new gadget that was based on the same idea of yesteryear. Point is, your time is worth money, use it wisely.
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Notice I didnt say this was the right way to do it but I would like you to tell me what is unsafe about it? I know it is not the proper or correct way to do threads on a muzzle but I don't understand the unsafe part. Save your smartass B.S. for someone else and if you know your shit answer the question. I wouldn't ask if i wasn't wondering if you saw something in those pics I didnt or what would make you say that. Again, not the way I do it or was taught to do it but i didn't see it as unsafe...maybe not proper but not unsafe.
I think the guy did nice job for his first brake, looks cool and he has accomplished something. He may not have done it the "RIGHT" way as it is done by the professionals but he used what he had to make it work. Everybody has to start somewhere
The sad part is those die cut threads look nicer than some single point threads that come out of some shops.
I agree with Sonic that it wasn't the correct way to do it, but I think with a little excess bullet/bore clearance it's not that big of a deal. I would highly advise against ever trying to screw a can on there, but just a brake eh whatever.
As for the clearance, 0.010" is far too little. Even if everything was done perfect, all bullets are not perfect and you could do some serious damage should one catch that brake. I'll bet you everything in my wallet that you can't tell the difference in efficiency between .010" & .030 clearance.
I agree with Sonic that it wasn't the correct way to do it, but I think with a little excess bullet/bore clearance it's not that big of a deal. I would highly advise against ever trying to screw a can on there, but just a brake eh whatever.
As for the clearance, 0.010" is far too little. Even if everything was done perfect, all bullets are not perfect and you could do some serious damage should one catch that brake. I'll bet you everything in my wallet that you can't tell the difference in efficiency between .010" & .030 clearance.
Well I have never seen any bullet that was oversized especially after it was forced down a barrel that was the perfect size, so I dont believe i would ever have that problem. Clearance that is put into brakes is to ensure that when they are bought out of midway and screwed on to just about any barrel they will not get a strike no matter how screwed up the muzzle threads are. Ask someone who actually has a degree in propulsion and you will probably get a little more insight into how a brake works. I have seen and shot about every commercial brake out there and until you get a bunch together and swap them out its had to tell what works and what don't. But its cool, give them all the clearance you feel is necessary. I simply think its funny to hear a blanket statement like this is the number that is best simply because they read this somewhere on the internet. And Im not sure about being able to tell the difference between .010 and .030 probably couldn't tell from shot but think you could from sound and probably the target but thats something totally different.
I fixed a Vias brake install that was done buy, an "in business" gunsmith and it was a pitiful job. The threads where so undersized that the brake slipped over the first three threads before catching! The tenon shoulder was not square. The brake had gap when tight. The OD was barely touched and taper to the barrel was like a 45 degree angle. Looked like a squared up round hunk of steel hanging off the end. I'm surprised it stayed on! On top of that, it was spray painted with black krylon that had runs in it. This was for a blued sporter! Sad thing is, he took money to do this!
rst me, the OP did a great job for what he had available to him!
rst me, the OP did a great job for what he had available to him!
I didn't mean an oversize bullet, but you're not leaving much margin for error of them coming out perfectly straight. Bullets with inconsistent jackets can easily come out slightly off axis, and with two pieces of paper as your clearance you're not giving much margin.
My thing is, sure maybe it works, but why do it? Standard practice is 20-30 thou.
My thing is, sure maybe it works, but why do it? Standard practice is 20-30 thou.
Holding the OD of a tapered barrel in a three-jaw chuck and using a thread die will not ensure the threads will be concentric or parallel to the bore axis. Granted, it works with your large brake bore diameter, I sure wouldn't trust threading any other muzzle device on there, especially a suppressor.
