Which ai bolt you comparing that long stock desert tech cough I mean mrad bolt throw too?
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First rifle, MRAD or custom?
- Thread starter 5InchGroupAt3Yard
- Start date
I have an EJ serial MRAD and the bolt is as smooth as anything I’ve owned in that class? Kiba has my old AXSA and it was typical AI of the mid 2010s era, I sold my TRG22 but that was quite nice very smooth.
Those poly mags work and they’re inexpensive. As I research AXSR, they don’t have a factory mag for 300prc that is worth a shit apparently. The barrel swap is two screws no threading in the barrel so it’s faster than AI isn’t it?
The 300prc mag issue is real.... And yes the mrads barrel change is faster no doubt
We usually agree on most things husky. I’ll have to agree to disagree here. I really was impressed by the one i got to use. It’s not an AI by any stretch but considering the market it’ll be my multi-cal setup.
The poly mags aren't flash. I prefer the AI. 300prc might be a problem. I don't know as I have no interest in PRC. The barrel swap is faster on the mrad, but the AIs can have their barrel spun up by any competent smith. Barrel swap speed is over emphasised as a pro. Barrel availability is much more of a consideration
Not a popular opinion but I'd take the MRAD because I could swap the 6.5 out for 338 and more.
You're asking a gun to shoot small holes from far off. MRAD will do that. If I wanted to carry it, I'd just swap out the barrel on my 308 howa to 6.5 and stick it in a chassis.
You're asking a gun to shoot small holes from far off. MRAD will do that. If I wanted to carry it, I'd just swap out the barrel on my 308 howa to 6.5 and stick it in a chassis.
Ambidextrous design? I may be wrong but there is no left hand bolt version of an MRAD that I have seen
Grip, safety, mag release are all ambidextrous. They don't make a dedicated left handed version. I may be wrong but bolt shouldn't matter that much if I am firing supported all the time.
Could just be differences in make and how many rounds they've had through them tbh. AXSR is 100% stiffer though, that thing has been put through the ringer.
I'm in Australia. I could have a dingo's breakfast (a drink of water and a look around), and there'd be a bill magically materialise finding some way to charge me something for it;Cheap ass customs.
Bolt smooth as hell though.
Based on your 1,2,3 goals from your first post.
If you want great resale value and a safe queen......get a "milspec" package setup. You will always find someone to pay top dollar if you keep it unmodified and in good shape.
If you want to seriously increase skillset.....take a precision rifle class from a reputable training center that also rents out rifles/gear. After class don't be shy, talk to fellow shooters about their rigs and ask to get behind them for feel/fitment. Don't be surprised if they let you sling some rounds downrange......provided they have extra ammo......haha. I've yet to meet a fellow precision rifle shooter not willing to answer questions, give honest opinions, and let you fondle their rigs.
After that you will have a much better understanding of what YOU like.
If you go down the rabbit hole of this sport, be prepared to:
- buy shit that doesn't work as advertised
- seemed like a good buy and got fucked
- buy something soon to be outdated
- shit, I left it at the range
- shit, I loaned that to someone and forgot who
- etc.
Ern
If you want great resale value and a safe queen......get a "milspec" package setup. You will always find someone to pay top dollar if you keep it unmodified and in good shape.
If you want to seriously increase skillset.....take a precision rifle class from a reputable training center that also rents out rifles/gear. After class don't be shy, talk to fellow shooters about their rigs and ask to get behind them for feel/fitment. Don't be surprised if they let you sling some rounds downrange......provided they have extra ammo......haha. I've yet to meet a fellow precision rifle shooter not willing to answer questions, give honest opinions, and let you fondle their rigs.
After that you will have a much better understanding of what YOU like.
If you go down the rabbit hole of this sport, be prepared to:
- buy shit that doesn't work as advertised
- seemed like a good buy and got fucked
- buy something soon to be outdated
- shit, I left it at the range
- shit, I loaned that to someone and forgot who
- etc.
Ern
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I say go watch like 3 matches. Whatever floats your boat (PRS, f class, benchrest, whatever). If after watching those matches you’re still like “hell yea I want to learn how to do that” then get a descent rifle. But if you want to show it off to your buddies at the 100-200 yard range, then just get something that looks cool and isn’t so expensive. As others have said, costs add up quickly.
I know a guy that spent some big money on a nice rifle (like $7k for the rifle and nothing else) Topped it with a $300 scope and $50 rings. Very tacticool looking. He shows it off to his buddies sometimes and they all get excited about being able to shoot such a high end rifle. I don’t think anyone has ever shot it beyond 150 yards.
Don’t be the guy that has a badass rifle but not the skill set to compliment it…. Or at least working to achieve the skill set.
I know a guy that spent some big money on a nice rifle (like $7k for the rifle and nothing else) Topped it with a $300 scope and $50 rings. Very tacticool looking. He shows it off to his buddies sometimes and they all get excited about being able to shoot such a high end rifle. I don’t think anyone has ever shot it beyond 150 yards.
Don’t be the guy that has a badass rifle but not the skill set to compliment it…. Or at least working to achieve the skill set.
$5k could build one badass custom rifle
But if you’re going factory the AT is definitely crème de le crème. Guess it also depends on what you want to do with it, but the MRAD is way too clunky to be maneuvering around barricades with.
But if you’re going factory the AT is definitely crème de le crème. Guess it also depends on what you want to do with it, but the MRAD is way too clunky to be maneuvering around barricades with.
Throw a Sako TRG M10 in there for max style points.
I would buy an MPA chambered in 6.5 CM and get accustomed to that caliber, rifle weight, recoil, and etc. Take a class. After six months you will have a better understanding of what you're really looking for and you won't lose that much money.
5inch,
Some suggestions.
#1 the trigger weight and feel helps you hit more easily. Most PRS style rifles are set sub 1 pound and it makes a big difference to me for sure. Man having a great trigger is a top priority. I like Trigger tech and Bix&Andy. That means to me most factory rifles don't qualify. Want oh's and ooh's from friends, yeah those triggers will get the desired reaction.
Don't need a 338L to hit stuff a mile away. Something like a 6.5 Creed or 6.5 PRC with heavy bullets will provide lots of fun at a mile. Just pick a day when the wind is down. Even the high BC 338 bullets will blow in the wind, just less so than some other calibers. Those 6.5's do fine at 1000Y BTW.
Many who buy 338L's end up selling them because of expense, recoil, and lack of distance within a short drive to shoot far enough out to see the advantage. No denying one advantage is seeing misses in the background easier because of the heavy bullet.
Some custom actions have a bolt head that can be changed over to another size so you can have high quality match grade already headspaced barrels chambered in different case head sizes made up to just screw on and torque down. But I just make it easy and have a few different rifles. I tried changing over barrels, resighting in, and it became something I didn't like after all was said and done.
If I wasn't going to reload I'd do 223 using heavy bullets and a fast twist barrel rather than 308. So much more pleasant to shoot, cheaper, and still pretty good 600 yards out. About the best trainer cartridge that there is and yes you can still hit stuff way out there.
I'd probably go with 6.5 PRC for longer distances as far as factory ammo in a short action.
I have a 6.5 Saum which still allowed me hits at 1987Y on a 20" plate. Best so far was 3 for 4.
Easy is two rifles, one in 223 and one in 6.5PRC for convenience sake.
Next option is one rifle and switch bolts and barrels.
Buy used and save money. I bought a nice used custom rifle and did a lot of winning with it at the time. Glad I did.
Some suggestions.
#1 the trigger weight and feel helps you hit more easily. Most PRS style rifles are set sub 1 pound and it makes a big difference to me for sure. Man having a great trigger is a top priority. I like Trigger tech and Bix&Andy. That means to me most factory rifles don't qualify. Want oh's and ooh's from friends, yeah those triggers will get the desired reaction.
Don't need a 338L to hit stuff a mile away. Something like a 6.5 Creed or 6.5 PRC with heavy bullets will provide lots of fun at a mile. Just pick a day when the wind is down. Even the high BC 338 bullets will blow in the wind, just less so than some other calibers. Those 6.5's do fine at 1000Y BTW.
Many who buy 338L's end up selling them because of expense, recoil, and lack of distance within a short drive to shoot far enough out to see the advantage. No denying one advantage is seeing misses in the background easier because of the heavy bullet.
Some custom actions have a bolt head that can be changed over to another size so you can have high quality match grade already headspaced barrels chambered in different case head sizes made up to just screw on and torque down. But I just make it easy and have a few different rifles. I tried changing over barrels, resighting in, and it became something I didn't like after all was said and done.
If I wasn't going to reload I'd do 223 using heavy bullets and a fast twist barrel rather than 308. So much more pleasant to shoot, cheaper, and still pretty good 600 yards out. About the best trainer cartridge that there is and yes you can still hit stuff way out there.
I'd probably go with 6.5 PRC for longer distances as far as factory ammo in a short action.
I have a 6.5 Saum which still allowed me hits at 1987Y on a 20" plate. Best so far was 3 for 4.
Easy is two rifles, one in 223 and one in 6.5PRC for convenience sake.
Next option is one rifle and switch bolts and barrels.
Buy used and save money. I bought a nice used custom rifle and did a lot of winning with it at the time. Glad I did.
custom sort of.
call mpa or order online. you want the matrix pro2 with the American rifle CDG action, idk what mpa calls theirs, and you want it to run with AW magazines and pick your cartridge, I recommend 6.5 creedmoor.
you have a full blown custom basically that will hold resale decently and shoot a helluva lot more fun and cheaper than a mrad or axmc or whatever AI you pick.
multical quick change rifles and 338l in general just aren't for me anymore. ive owned some of the big brands, I ended up with a foundation Samson and ARC cdg in 6 creedmoor.
fwiw no gun will hold an easy 70% resale unless you got it used for heavy discounts, and even then..
scopes are really no different. cheaper will hurt less if you sell but you'll enjoy less while you use.
cheap options that should work, vortex venom for 400$. I recommend vortex gen 3 razor(mil)or the new march 5-42 high master wide angle(mil) with no illumination(save money) depending on what's available and budgets. call retailers and ask what deals they can do.
I see some great deals on tangent theta 5-25 in gen 3 xr. that's what I run for prs and a most excellent scope. pick one up for 3500 and you should get better than 80% back if you unload it.
call mpa or order online. you want the matrix pro2 with the American rifle CDG action, idk what mpa calls theirs, and you want it to run with AW magazines and pick your cartridge, I recommend 6.5 creedmoor.
you have a full blown custom basically that will hold resale decently and shoot a helluva lot more fun and cheaper than a mrad or axmc or whatever AI you pick.
multical quick change rifles and 338l in general just aren't for me anymore. ive owned some of the big brands, I ended up with a foundation Samson and ARC cdg in 6 creedmoor.
fwiw no gun will hold an easy 70% resale unless you got it used for heavy discounts, and even then..
scopes are really no different. cheaper will hurt less if you sell but you'll enjoy less while you use.
cheap options that should work, vortex venom for 400$. I recommend vortex gen 3 razor(mil)or the new march 5-42 high master wide angle(mil) with no illumination(save money) depending on what's available and budgets. call retailers and ask what deals they can do.
I see some great deals on tangent theta 5-25 in gen 3 xr. that's what I run for prs and a most excellent scope. pick one up for 3500 and you should get better than 80% back if you unload it.
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its a very nice gun. just be aware of that it come with a 20 MOA rail already, and if you happen to have a 20 MOA ring, you might not be able to zeroing at 100 Yard.
LOL....when I first bought K guns (Krieghoff and Kolar), their base model, plain jane shotguns were right at $10K. Now, right at 14K.
And when I say plain jane standard grade...that's what I mean. Add upgraded wood and, god forbid, engraving and the sky is the limit.
Perazzi were always just a tad cheaper and I think their slick side comp guns (e.g MX-8) are right at $12K now.
But these are shotguns that you can run 10-15K shells a year, in all weather, for pretty much the rest of your life....and we don't have to rebarrel them! haha
There has never been one rifle that did it all. Rest assured that there will always be that next rifle you need or want.
I remember about 6 or 7 years ago I shot some sporting at Pat Lieske's Michigan Shooting Center. After paying I went to their gun room and picked up a really nice Kolar to look at.
When I got to the price tag I put it back REAL quick.
$35,000
Here are some pics of my Kolar....sold it now. Fused lumbar and I can manage a few rounds of recreational skeet but grinding out 400-500 targets over a weekend, doing that 12 to 14 times during a season, and practice....nah, not even close. And being retired and the insane cost of ammo these days...well, I'm just not into $500 (on the less expensive side) to $1k or much more for a weekend of shooting.
I did keep my blued standard grade Krieghoff two barrel set with Briley tubes and Wenig plain wood...its a shooter...and I just hack a few rounds with it these days. We did build a nice five stand at my local club and I've been shooting it with a Beretta 682 Gold (not the Gold E...the OG) which is a wonderful gun.
Anyway, Kolar pics...which I've probably bored you with before....this gun was $19K in year 2000 when Kolar was trying to establish a reputation for their new gun in competition circles. Another two barrel set with tubes. Today, easy $35K. Wow...but I used to ride an '89 softail (sold it 5 years ago) and could not afford that today either. lol
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Doesn't look like I am going to win this lol:
There are some deep pocket collectors over there.
Forget all these guys saying "save your money" "buy something cheaper". If you have the coin and want a high dollar rifle, then buy one! You'll at least be more likely to go shoot it! I would go the factory route and buy the next low round count AI ATX you see in the PX, you won't have to fiddle with anything, they just work. Buy a scope, a used NF, ZCO, Razor, or similar, and you basically won't lose any money. Can resell the rifle and scope for near what you paid whenever you're ready. You'll be 8k'ish for rifle, scope, bipod, couple cases of ammo.
