First time reloading: Any glaring needs?

[SwiftScope]

Like the title says, this is my very first time entering this realm and it's something that Ive wanted to do for a very long time. Well the time is here and I wanted to reach out in this forum for any glaring needs in my kit.

I will be loading 6.5 Creedmoor and just yesterday I purchased what I need, my question is that is there anything that I may be missing that I MUST have in order to reload? I know there are a plethora of things that I will likely need at some point but I'm more interested in the things I absolutely must have before starting.

This is what I bought:

Lyman Victory Single Stage kit

Brass-Smith® Victory Press™ Reloading Kit

Lyman used all 140 years of their reloading experience with the design of the new Brass Smith Victory Press. This workhorse cast iron press is equipped with our completely new Auto Primer Feed and is the most rugged yet precise single stage press available. Perfect for precision rifle shooters...

www.lymanproducts.com

Forster benchrest die set
LE Wilson Case Gage
Hodgdon H4350 1lb
Hornady 140g ELDM bullets 100
CCI #250 primers
Starline brass (brand new) 100 cases

It will all be set up in the workbench station I built in the photo. Thanks for your time and go easy on the new kid!

 

[Wulf]

I recommend having a beam scale along side the digital scale. Personally I always refer back to it to verify my digital. And load book from the company you choose your projectiles from for base lines so in your case hornady 10th edition I think is still the most recent.

 

[SwiftScope]

I recommend having a beam scale along side the digital scale. Personally I always refer back to it to verify my digital. And load book from the company you choose your projectiles from for base lines so in your case hornady 10th edition I think is still the most recent.

Ill look into the beam scale for sure and I should have mentioned I was going to purchase the hornady book as well. Thanks

 

[Wulf]

Ill look into the beam scale for sure and I should have mentioned I was going to purchase the hornady book as well. Thanks

One more highly recommend tool would be a case trimmer if your cruise eBay you can get them pretty cheap I just picked up a camlock hornady for 60 bucks with all the original parts

 

[rock74]

Unless I missed it i don't see a case trimmer in the kit.

 

[blister]

don't forget case lube,tumbler and media.I hope you enjoy it.If you do you will be spending more in the near future for sure.

 

[Howland]

You absolutely must have a good set of calipers. No ifs, ands or buts.

You will need to know when your brass needs trimming. You'll find other uses as you fall down the rabbit hole.

 

[EnjoyTheWilderness]

You absolutely must have a good set of calipers. No ifs, ands or buts.

You will need to know when your brass needs trimming. You'll find other uses as you fall down the rabbit hole.

* To pair up with the caliper... A case and bullet comparator set (that is two similar but different things).
* Does that scale come with a calibration weight?
* Case sizing lube/wax
* Shellholder for your particular cartridge?
* Bullet puller?

 

[Singleshot]

Thing with reloading, you’ll start upgrading equipment for things you don’t like to do, mostly based on time it consumes.

2 things I hate is:
- trimming/Debur/chamfer.
- Case lubing by hand.

For trimming cases, a good, easy, and affordable option is Lyman ezee Case Trimmer. Stick one end in a power drill, and hold the case in the other and trim away. It trims the case pretty well and accurately to length, but you still need it Chamfer & Debur. That’s 3 steps. Or you can spend 10x more for a giraud Triway or something like it which does all 3 steps in 1 move. There are more expensive options as well.

As for lubing, I personally like Hornady One Shot Case Lube. Spray it and done. I can’t stand using paste.

 

[SwiftScope]

You absolutely must have a good set of calipers. No ifs, ands or buts.

You will need to know when your brass needs trimming. You'll find other uses as you fall down the rabbit hole.

Noted, will definitely grab one

 

[Rillhurst]

Slingshot - You nailed it on the Hates...

- Settled on Giraud after collecting trimmers for 30 yrs ( Manual RCBS, POWER RCBS and Dillon - wish I hadn’t waited so long).
- Case lube ( home-brew of Lanolin/90% Alcohol works well for me)

 

[Singleshot]

Slingshot - You nailed it on the Hates...

- Settled on Giraud after collecting trimmers for 30 yrs ( Manual RCBS, POWER RCBS and Dillon - wish I hadn’t waited so long).
- Case lube ( home-brew of Lanolin/90% Alcohol works well for me)

Same here. Settled on Giraud after YEARS of being cheap and developed carpal tunnel. It is a bit pricey, but, best investment, ever.

Although there are cheaper I guess you can call knockoffs now, which I heard works abot the same. Wouldn’t know. I only use Giraud.

 

[Steel head]

Absolutely must make a habit of visually confirming powder in each case before seating a bullet.

Good luck.
Reloading is one of those activities that can be entertaining and yet be a chore.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

Dump the Wison case cage or use it as a paper weight.

 

[SwiftScope]

* To pair up with the caliper... A case and bullet comparator set (that is two similar but different things).
* Does that scale come with a calibration weight?
* Case sizing lube/wax
* Shellholder for your particular cartridge?
* Bullet puller?

I'm not sure on the weight but the kit does include case lube and a bullet puller

EDIT: it does indeed come with a calibration weight

 

[Steel head]

I actually learned here to not begin with virgin brass.

I always shoot a load of powder I don’t use anymore(H100v) with a cheap 100ish grain bullet in my new 260 brass.

 

[SwiftScope]

Round #1 is in the books. This was at a lighter load, 40.0 gr with a COL of 2.800.

 

[RackOpsTactical]

As others have said it's essential to get in addition to what you have:
Calipers
Hornady reloading manual
Case Trimmer (of your choice)
OAL Gauge
Bullet Comparator
Headspace Gauge or Precision Micrometer
This Book - Highly recommend! read before you get very far down the road of loading. Wish I had.
Some sort of brass cleaning device such as a tumbler or sonic cleaner

in the Nice to have but not essential:
Satern Powder Funnel - Not essential but very good value for the $$.
More loading blocks - can use anything from a block of wood with holes in it to old factory ammo box trays

 

[Milo 2.5]

Ill look into the beam scale for sure and I should have mentioned I was going to purchase the hornady book as well. Thanks

I'd save my money on the beam scale. You would be way better off with scale check weights to verify your charges.
By comparing results from scale to scale, you are banking that one 100.00 scale is more accurate than the other 100.00 scale. Weights verify your charge, that is all you need to know. Electronic scale drift is easy to discern.

 

[SwiftScope]

First range day today, Zeroed in the rifle and am happy with it's performance.

All of my reloads worked perfect and was impressed with the accuracy right away. Was zeroed in 3 rds. It was a pretty windy day but the scope needs some minor adjustments as a lot of the groups were high and right by less than an inch. But really overall am happy.

I don't have a Chrono yet so I couldn't get much info but I noted down all I could with what I had.

Now to start with load development.

 

[absolutchris]

Cool thread, I have been gathering stuff over the past six months and trying to learn, building my bench, etc

That must have been a fun range day

 

[TheGerman]

Obvious things:

- Mitutoyo calipers
- Hornady comparator with inserts for your bullet and case neck (but, I'd skip those and get a Redding Instant Indicator die with guage; started using these and it makes the comparator look like its guessing)
- Bushing dies (dies are not 1 size fits all)
- Mandrel die with Tin .001 and .002 expander mandrels
- Giraud Trimmer or at a minimum a Wilson manual trimmer
- Redding case neck guage
- Caliber specific funnel (the universal ones are shit, as all universal things are)

Shit to add to your Christmas list:

- AMP Annealer 2.0
- AMP Mate with casefeeder
- A&D Fx1201 and auto trickler kit from 419


Knowing what I know now, I have no idea how I didn't blow myself up 15+ years ago when I started reloading.

 

[SwiftScope]

View attachment 7081855

Obvious things:

- Mitutoyo calipers
- Hornady comparator with inserts for your bullet and case neck (but, I'd skip those and get a Redding Instant Indicator die with guage; started using these and it makes the comparator look like its guessing)
- Bushing dies (dies are not 1 size fits all)
- Mandrel die with Tin .001 and .002 expander mandrels
- Giraud Trimmer or at a minimum a Wilson manual trimmer
- Redding case neck guage
- Caliber specific funnel (the universal ones are shit, as all universal things are)

Shit to add to your Christmas list:

- AMP Annealer 2.0
- AMP Mate with casefeeder
- A&D Fx1201 and auto trickler kit from 419


Knowing what I know now, I have no idea how I didn't blow myself up 15+ years ago when I started reloading.

Solid information here, thanks!

 

[SwiftScope]

Cool thread, I have been gathering stuff over the past six months and trying to learn, building my bench, etc

That must have been a fun range day

The groups need some tightning but yeah, it was one of the best range days I have ever had just simply based on the fact that it was with ammo that i made. just an awesome feeling to have confirmation that im on the right track

 

[Srikaleak]

- Bushing dies (dies are not 1 size fits all)
- Mandrel die with Tin .001 and .002 expander mandrels

I'm also learning. Why would you pair a bushing die with the mandrel die? I thought the whole point of a bushing die was to use the specific bushing to size to the exact neck tension you want. This should negate the use of mandrel die.
The reason you would use a mandrel die with a standard saami spec non bushing die is to modify the saami spec to the neck tension that you would want.

 

[TheGerman]

I'm also learning. Why would you pair a bushing die with the mandrel die? I thought the whole point of a bushing die was to use the specific bushing to size to the exact neck tension you want. This should negate the use of mandrel die.
The reason you would use a mandrel die with a standard saami spec non bushing die is to modify the saami spec to the neck tension that you would want.

Bushing sizes from outside. Mandrel from inside.

You can find a more uniform neck tension by using both, together.

Find out what tension you want and then find the combination of bushing plus mandrel to get it. Ive noticed that if I use the bushing first and then run it through a mandrel to 'finish' it, I get a much more consistant end result as well as get rid of any bumps/nicks on both the inside and outside of the neck.

 

[Howland]

I'm also learning. Why would you pair a bushing die with the mandrel die? I thought the whole point of a bushing die was to use the specific bushing to size to the exact neck tension you want. This should negate the use of mandrel die.
The reason you would use a mandrel die with a standard saami spec non bushing die is to modify the saami spec to the neck tension that you would want.

Most people who use bushings without mandrels are turning necks. If neck thickness is exactly the same all the way around and from case to case, you really don't need a mandrel. All you would accomplish is accelerating work hardening of the brass. If you also anneal, you don't even do that.

I don't turn, so I final size the neck with a mandrel for uniform tension and to keep the inside of the neck centered in the case. I select the bushing size to minimize work hardening.

 

[spife7980]

I wouldnt say most people using bushings only are turning. I would say that most arent turning at all when they use just a bushing. They havent found an issue with what they are doing. They use the bullet as the mandrel instead of adding a second step. I cant fault them if they are pleased with the results.

I use mandrels myself. Ideally its the best practice, how that works in the real world I cant say though as I havent bothered testing it myself. But I can believe the theory of pushing the inconsistencies outwards before they interface with the bullet.

 

[Milo 2.5]

I'm also learning. Why would you pair a bushing die with the mandrel die? I thought the whole point of a bushing die was to use the specific bushing to size to the exact neck tension you want. This should negate the use of mandrel die.
I'm in your camp on this myself, if your bushing used is .003" under, running either a expander mandrel or a turning arbor through the neck, you just screwed it up.
I also think these new custom size mandrels from 21st Century will open some eyes on a few claims made in the past. Example would be, I run an expander mandrel for .002" neck tension, well, look at 6mm bullets, most measure 2435-2436", so there was never the .002" tension.
The more I read about pushing inconsistencies to the outside, the more I think most do it is become someone else does it and it is Cool.



The reason you would use a mandrel die with a standard saami spec non bushing die is to modify the saami spec to the neck tension that you would want.
Yes, if you are not running the expander ball that comes with the die. Whidden makes a custom expander ball set for most calibers which theoretically would do this in one step. But, we've all seen expander balls pulled back through a case change things up, like cases now being longer, etc..
I do think if you do run a reg die, setting neck tension with a mandrel the better option, as you are doing it from above and not within on the upward stroke. But other than a set from Hollands, or custom ground mandrels, they were limited in scope, it's been one size fits all.

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

If your case mouth thickness varies the bushing makes the outside uniform and pushes the variance to the inside effecting tension, the mandrel pushes it back to the outside and makes the inside uniform.

 

[bax]

I don't promise anything new but this list will be complete it includes the "must haves" and the "nice to haves" and "the other crap that I use".

• A record book. Use it. Trust me on this, it will be your best friend.
• Everyone else mentioned good loading manuals.
• Tumbler to clean the brass after you shoot it and after you lube/size it - I use the dillon and another one
• Flitz polish for media - I like clean shiny brass and it slides better in sizing dies and chambers.
• tumbling media - bought in bulk from Grainger, others go to pet supply places
• Something to separate the brass from the media - I use the Dillon device
• I use one of the flame-style annealers. It seems to improve sizing and long-range vertical but I am an idiot so pay no attention to me. If you plan to anneal, do it before sizing where it will do some good. Your measurement tools should show a smaller range between min and max.
• lots of loading blocks - I have 5 for .473 bolt face cases, its weird how you never seem to have enough
• case lube - I use imperial, you have something and a pad in your kit
• shell holder
• You are not using button dies so you don't need buttons. I do use button dies and I use Wilson buttons. I replaced all of my redding buttons. Wilson buttons are better
• When I am setting up my sizing die, I use a "go" headspace gauge to get close. It speeds up the process but is not necessary.
• RCBS precision mic - for measuring brass headspace length. You can also purchase a gizmo to go on your caliper. I have two of those types but I like the precision mic best. Good chamber-size records help.
• I use shims to adjust the die height to set the brass headspace. For what it's worth, I have started to torque my dies so I had to buy a big crowfoot wrench. 65-inch-pounds makes my headspace adjustments repeatable.
• Quality caliper - I have Mitutoyo and Starrett. Use them to measure OAL, base diameter, bullets ... lots of stuff. I also have a Mitutoyo tubing mic to measure case neck thickness. Nice to have once in a while.
• mandrel holder and mandrel - I have both Sinclair and K&M. Mine are really old but both work well.
• When using the mandrel I use powdered graphite to lube the neck
• You have a kinetic bullet puller in your kit. After you have removed 5 or 10 bullets, you may find that you need something better. The forster bullet puller is the cat's ass.
• I use pin gauges to insure that my neck IDs are correct - bought from MSC or Grainger - I shoot 0.305 neck ID, it works for me and matches my mandrel, button, etc. I have gauges from 302 to 308.
• case trimmer, I use a Giraud. It has trimmed a crapload of brass. It keeps on ticking and delivering plus or minus 0.001. It is $400+ but there is none better. I also have a Forster and a Wilson. I don't like the Forster and the Wilson is slow but very accurate and repeatable. Case trimming is unnecessary until it is no longer optional. Unless you have OCD like most precision reloaders.
• I think your kit contains a primer pocket uniformer. I am using the sinclair carbide type. They can be chipped but they can't be made dull.
• I use the RCBS primer flipper/tray. You have a Lyman in your kit. I also have a Dillon, the RCBS is better.
• I also use a cutter to debur flash holes. I have RCBS and Sinclair
• I have two Wilson case mouth chamfer tools, I used one so much that it has become dull.
• You can prime on your press or use a manual priming tool - I use a sinclair manual tool but I also have a lee and RCBS. You can spend $450 on a really cool looking one.
• I use pin gauges to check primer pocket diameters. This helps me find Mil cases that must be un-crimped and cases where the PP is too large and I have to crimp them down. I use the dillon decrimper for Mil brass I picked up at the range.
• Powder throwing funnel - I think your kit comes with the Lyman, get one that fits your case neck so you can drop the funnel over a case, pour the powder in, then move the funnel to the next case. I bought a funnel kit from Area 419 that I like. I also have Satern, some little custom made ones, and the Lyman one. They all get used at various times.
• You have a powder thrower and a scale. You can go seriously off the rails on scales - that is the voice of experience. Like the man said above, get a calibration weight and use it. If your scale drifts (I predict that it will) you may want to upgrade. All "load cell" scales drift. Just sayin'. My scale doesn't drift but it didn't cost $100 either.
• A device to measure the length of your chamber. I use the Hornady "lock and load" length gauge with their prepped cases.
• You will use your press and seater die and shell holder to seat bullets. I use an arbor press and Wilson seater die, I believe it makes more concentric ammo but I never checked Faith is handy when you don't have measurement tools. Tony Boyer uses a Wilson seater and that is good enough for me.
• Some kind of device to measure loaded cartridge length at the ogive. You can use your caliper for OAL but bullets vary so the ogive measurement "should be" more consistent.
• You already have an ammo box. You may find that you want to have more of those. It seems to me that there is no practical limit to the number you may need.
• Write down what you plan to do and what you did. That is why you have the record book. Write down your hair-brained idea to explain why you changed something. In a couple years, you may discover that you want to try it again. Records are good.
• Write down every dimension you can think of particularly for fired brass, barrel, scope information, magazine length, and weights. You will be surprised how often you will use that information.

When I am reloading precision stuff, I use every item I listed. You have a good basic kit to get started. Go slow, pay attention to details, double check, and experiment. That rifle should shoot under half an inch with tuned loads, maybe under a 4. Have fun with it!

 

[SwiftScope]

I don't promise anything new but this list will be complete it includes the "must haves" and the "nice to haves" and "the other crap that I use".

• A record book. Use it. Trust me on this, it will be your best friend.
• Everyone else mentioned good loading manuals.
• Tumbler to clean the brass after you shoot it and after you lube/size it - I use the dillon and another one
• Flitz polish for media - I like clean shiny brass and it slides better in sizing dies and chambers.
• tumbling media - bought in bulk from Grainger, others go to pet supply places
• Something to separate the brass from the media - I use the Dillon device
• I use one of the flame-style annealers. It seems to improve sizing and long-range vertical but I am an idiot so pay no attention to me. If you plan to anneal, do it before sizing where it will do some good. Your measurement tools should show a smaller range between min and max.
• lots of loading blocks - I have 5 for .473 bolt face cases, its weird how you never seem to have enough
• case lube - I use imperial, you have something and a pad in your kit
• shell holder
• You are not using button dies so you don't need buttons. I do use button dies and I use Wilson buttons. I replaced all of my redding buttons. Wilson buttons are better
• When I am setting up my sizing die, I use a "go" headspace gauge to get close. It speeds up the process but is not necessary.
• RCBS precision mic - for measuring brass headspace length. You can also purchase a gizmo to go on your caliper. I have two of those types but I like the precision mic best. Good chamber-size records help.
• I use shims to adjust the die height to set the brass headspace. For what it's worth, I have started to torque my dies so I had to buy a big crowfoot wrench. 65-inch-pounds makes my headspace adjustments repeatable.
• Quality caliper - I have Mitutoyo and Starrett. Use them to measure OAL, base diameter, bullets ... lots of stuff. I also have a Mitutoyo tubing mic to measure case neck thickness. Nice to have once in a while.
• mandrel holder and mandrel - I have both Sinclair and K&M. Mine are really old but both work well.
• When using the mandrel I use powdered graphite to lube the neck
• You have a kinetic bullet puller in your kit. After you have removed 5 or 10 bullets, you may find that you need something better. The forster bullet puller is the cat's ass.
• I use pin gauges to insure that my neck IDs are correct - bought from MSC or Grainger - I shoot 0.305 neck ID, it works for me and matches my mandrel, button, etc. I have gauges from 302 to 308.
• case trimmer, I use a Giraud. It has trimmed a crapload of brass. It keeps on ticking and delivering plus or minus 0.001. It is $400+ but there is none better. I also have a Forster and a Wilson. I don't like the Forster and the Wilson is slow but very accurate and repeatable. Case trimming is unnecessary until it is no longer optional. Unless you have OCD like most precision reloaders.
• I think your kit contains a primer pocket uniformer. I am using the sinclair carbide type. They can be chipped but they can't be made dull.
• I use the RCBS primer flipper/tray. You have a Lyman in your kit. I also have a Dillon, the RCBS is better.
• I also use a cutter to debur flash holes. I have RCBS and Sinclair
• I have two Wilson case mouth chamfer tools, I used one so much that it has become dull.
• You can prime on your press or use a manual priming tool - I use a sinclair manual tool but I also have a lee and RCBS. You can spend $450 on a really cool looking one.
• I use pin gauges to check primer pocket diameters. This helps me find Mil cases that must be un-crimped and cases where the PP is too large and I have to crimp them down. I use the dillon decrimper for Mil brass I picked up at the range.
• Powder throwing funnel - I think your kit comes with the Lyman, get one that fits your case neck so you can drop the funnel over a case, pour the powder in, then move the funnel to the next case. I bought a funnel kit from Area 419 that I like. I also have Satern, some little custom made ones, and the Lyman one. They all get used at various times.
• You have a powder thrower and a scale. You can go seriously off the rails on scales - that is the voice of experience. Like the man said above, get a calibration weight and use it. If your scale drifts (I predict that it will) you may want to upgrade. All "load cell" scales drift. Just sayin'. My scale doesn't drift but it didn't cost $100 either.
• A device to measure the length of your chamber. I use the Hornady "lock and load" length gauge with their prepped cases.
• You will use your press and seater die and shell holder to seat bullets. I use an arbor press and Wilson seater die, I believe it makes more concentric ammo but I never checked Faith is handy when you don't have measurement tools. Tony Boyer uses a Wilson seater and that is good enough for me.
• Some kind of device to measure loaded cartridge length at the ogive. You can use your caliper for OAL but bullets vary so the ogive measurement "should be" more consistent.
• You already have an ammo box. You may find that you want to have more of those. It seems to me that there is no practical limit to the number you may need.
• Write down what you plan to do and what you did. That is why you have the record book. Write down your hair-brained idea to explain why you changed something. In a couple years, you may discover that you want to try it again. Records are good.
• Write down every dimension you can think of particularly for fired brass, barrel, scope information, magazine length, and weights. You will be surprised how often you will use that information.

When I am reloading precision stuff, I use every item I listed. You have a good basic kit to get started. Go slow, pay attention to details, double check, and experiment. That rifle should shoot under half an inch with tuned loads, maybe under a 4. Have fun with it!

I will be printing this and keeping it. Thank you very much for this post.

 

[bug_eyedmonster]

Lots of amazing info on this thread, thank you all. I have been loading pistol rounds for years, and thought it would be similar. The more I read about rifle ammo reloading, the more complicated this is getting. I have been buying gear here and there for a year now, still nowhere close to ready.


Jerry

 

[DoNotReply]

@bax
Just wondering which particular model of Mitutoyo’s do you use??

 

[bax]

500-196-20 caliper
293-768-30 micrometer
115-313 tubing mic
one other

 

[little_scrapper]

Mitatoyu and starret are expensive. And down the road I will get one. However, I bought a $50 Hornady caliper and verified it in the cal lab at work. Spot on perfect readings across full range. Our cal kit at work has a comprehensive kit of calibrated block widths down to .0001". I used those to see when the .0005 (half a thou) on the caliper would show up. From .0003 to about .0008 I would get the half thousandths. Between .0008 and .0003 it displayed X.0000". $50 caliper works just fine. Mitatoyu and Starred better and will last longer. But for me; the beginner, I cant spend $300+ on every tool. $50 got me there.

 

[Milo 2.5]

Mitatoyu and starret are expensive. And down the road I will get one. However, I bought a $50 Hornady caliper and verified it in the cal lab at work. Spot on perfect readings across full range. Our cal kit at work has a comprehensive kit of calibrated block widths down to .0001". I used those to see when the .0005 (half a thou) on the caliper would show up. From .0003 to about .0008 I would get the half thousandths. Between .0008 and .0003 it displayed X.0000". $50 caliper works just fine. Mitatoyu and Starred better and will last longer. But for me; the beginner, I cant spend $300+ on every tool. $50 got me there.

I own expensive calipers, are they needed for reloading, not in my opinion. They were in my budget range, so I bought them. I do think a guy should have 2 pairs, whether cheaper or high dollar to compare against each other if you think something is askew. Then again, I've never seen a 1/4" drill bit more than .0005" off, so always a way to calibrate if that is a thing, lol

 

[Deleted member 10043]

mine are made in china

 

[Milo 2.5]

mine are made in china

Mitutoyo's are made in Japan, lol

 

[little_scrapper]

Then again, I've never seen a 1/4" drill bit more than .0005" off, so always a way to calibrate if that is a thing, lol

Another excellent point. Just one more way to verify a caliper if you don't have access to a full service cal lab like I do. In house we have ug scales. Microgram! I bring my verification weights in and verify them to six decimal places.

 

[Milo 2.5]

Another excellent point. Just one more way to verify a caliper if you don't have access to a full service cal lab like I do. In house we have ug scales. Microgram! I bring my verification weights in and verify them to six decimal places.

Yeah, verify, that was my word!