I'm in agreement on the over annealing for one, and for two the chamfer is backwards on the rounds shown above. The outside diameter should have the burr removed and a very slight almost unnoticeable bevel, while the taper cut should be on the inside.
This document is upside down, but you can see the correct end state result of a trimmed and deburred neck here. FYI the Gracey trimmer came with adjustable tool steel blades; they were not easy to adjust. Someone came out with a one piece carbide cutter with the correct angles for trimming chamfering and deburring. I've used both setups with success.
I'm not that familiar with the Lee product, but at the end of the day this is the desired result.
Lastly, there is the issue of whether or not you are using too tight of a neck bushing. Note that in one piece full sizing dies, you have to decide what you want to touch the neck last to determine your final neck OD. You need to use one OR the other - the button OR the bushing - not BOTH - though you can use both, but understand that the final size will be based on the OD of the button, not the ID of the bushing. Using both is a valid method assuming you are good with the ID created by the button, and in this case the bushing controls how much you size the neck down before pulling the button back through.
As I shoot a 6mm/22-250, which is very similar to the Creedmoor ballistically and adopted it over a decade before the Creedmoor chamberings came out, I use a Redding competition die set made for 6/250 (it's been a common wildcat for decades, in fact the 22/250 was a wildcat using a necked down 250 Savage case that then became a standard chambering). I use the tapered expander ball to neck up from .223 to .243 ID for the first loading, then after that pull the stem out and just use the bushing to set my neck OD.
Don't scoff at expanders - Redding makes them in different sizes, so you can control neck tension with them. OD bushings will vary your ID/neck tension based on the variance in thickness of your necks, so often bushings are used with neck turning of the cases. Talk about another way to create a bunch of brass scrap metal while learn to use a neck turner and perfect your technique
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A prominent poster from decades past that did a lot of experimenting and documenting on the BBSs back in the 90s, Bart Bobbitt, once took his 308 Palma rifle to the range, set up on a rest at 600 yards, took his reloading gear, and shot a single 308 Win case (Winchester brass) 30 TIMES doing nothing more than full length sizing, priming/dropping powder/seating the bullet - without a case failure nor notable change in accuracy.
I have had hot loads shorten case length; I've had hot loads lengthen case length; I've had rifles with good barrels, a good smith cutting the chamber with a good reamer, and headspace in the .001"-.002" over minimum fired cases basically not change case length once settled in after the first firing when using loads below SAAMI MAX pressure. Oh and I've never annealed a case in my life. My current back of 308 Lapua cases have 8 firings on them and are showing no signs of problems.
All things to consider regarding your choices around reloading room time and process.
(EDIT TO ADD: I only use the Gracey for high volume stuff; I have 2 - one for 556 and one for 762, so I don't have to monkey with the blades. For all other chamberings I use a Forster mini lathe and an OOOOOLLLLLDDDDDD (like from the 50s that was my dads) CH inside/outside chamfer tool)
