Night Vision FLIR M18 Battery Question

Insomniac

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Minuteman
Aug 1, 2014
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Hey guys,

I'm starting to get a little freaked out here. Granted, I just got my new FLIR M18, so I am doing probably a lot of looking and testing and changing colors and stuff, but this thing is eating batteries like no tomorrow Any tips on maybe something I am doing wrong?

I have had it out playing for three nights now, and totally depleted two sets of batteries. On the first set I did test out the visible laser, both high and low power. But on the second set I never touched the laser a single time. The high power is pinned off and software selected off. I did do a fair amount of changing color palettes, zooming in and out, and even manual NUC a few times, but not like every five minutes. I also have the brightness setting all the way down (which incidentally I think is still too bright even using the "night" setting). The general specs for this unit say battery life > 3 hours at room temp. I haven't even come close to that. And wouldn't even come close to that if I just turned it on and scanned without any color changes, NUCs, or zooms. Anyone got any ideas? Oh and if it matters, the two sets of batteries I depleted where the two sets that came with the unit...they were Panasonic brand. Maybe my Surefire batteries will do better?

I love the unit and certainly don't have any buyers remorse. But I am starting to feel a tad of buyers panic if I get to where I have to install fresh batteries every single night. Help!!!!

Regards,

G.
 
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Mine burned through batteries as well, run times of under 2 hours when continuously powered on and on lowest brightness setting. The unit also needs an alternate heat sink, the lens just didn't cut it, ran way hot on the core side. I bought bulk (100 count case) Rayovac's from botach. My M18 came with Surefire batteries, they didn't last any longer than any other that I tried.

Do a timed test, it may or may not be as far off as it appears.

ETA: The M18 is a vampire, it will draw quite a bit of current when powered down, enough that you must remove batteries at the end of each usage cycle. Just be aware of this as well when calculating run times.
 
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Mine burned through batteries as well, run times of under 2 hours when continuously powered on and on lowest brightness setting. The unit also needs an alternate heat sink, the lens just didn't cut it, ran way hot on the core side. I bought bulk (100 count case) Rayovac's from botach. My M18 came with Surefire batteries, they didn't last any longer than any other that I tried.

Do a timed test, it may or may not be as far off as it appears.

ETA: The M18 is a vampire, it will draw quite a bit of current when powered down, enough that you must remove batteries at the end of each usage cycle. Just be aware of this as well when calculating run times.

Yea I concur with everything you said. However, just to clarify, are you saying the M18 draws power even when turned off? Or are you saying it draws quite of bit of current during the shut down cycle? I would be curious to know why in the world it would draw any power when totally off?? That surely doesn't should like something the military would find acceptable. Hell you could put in a fresh set of batteries, take it out into the field and never turn it on. Then one night you need it, pull it out, crank it up and no joy. And you never got a single second of use from a fresh set of batteries!! Can that possibly by acceptable to anyone? Is that the norm and I was just totally unaware of it?

I thought I had a great idea by going to manual and simply dialing down the brightness to even lower than the "night" mode provides. Problem with that is I use and really like the DDE mode 99 percent of the time. Well going into manual takes away the benefit of DDE. They really should have set it up where you could stay in DDE mode but also make simple brightness and/or contract adjustments while staying in DDE mode. For my uses, DDE works famously. I would just like to have the ability to make a simple screen brightness adjustment. Let me keep DDE in use but just be able to turn to dang volume down a little.

Regards,

G.
 
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I should be getting my m18 delivered by tomorrow. I'll time the battery life as well and report back with my findings. I'm definatly hoping for more than 2 hours. I hope it doesn't draw battery power when turned off.. We shall see...

When was the manufacture date on your unit? I think mine is the slightly older model before some optics and core changes were implemented around Jan 2014.
 
I should be getting my m18 delivered by tomorrow. I'll time the battery life as well and report back with my findings. I'm definatly hoping for more than 2 hours. I hope it doesn't draw battery power when turned off.. We shall see...

When was the manufacture date on your unit? I think mine is the slightly older model before some optics and core changes were implemented around Jan 2014.

I asked this exact question when I placed the order. I was told, (and the paperwork upon receipt confirmed) April 2014. I was mainly asking as it related to the reported very stiff objective focus which was supposed to be fixed. Mine is fine I guess. Its a little stiff, but not blister causing stiff like I have heard some report. It certainly won't move on its own if knocked around...which is good.

Regards,

G.
 
It eats CR123s, the best ones that last the longest and cost the most are the 1,550mAhr Energizers....

SkyPup,

Since the number of batteries is not the same, I know its not an exact measurement / comparison in time. But would you guess your T70 and T75 to consume power at a similar rate?

Regards,

G.
 
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Close to it, if you record video it chews them up faster so be sure to leave the video recording off unless you are using it.

Also, both the T-70 and T-75 will take three 1.5 volt Li-Ion AA Energizers or two CR-123s, the three AAs will last considerably longer (about 1/3rd more) than the two CR-123s.

I use both the M-18 and the LS-64, the M-18 is the best picture but the internal battery in the LS-64 lasts way longer, all night long of use before a recharge so I tend to use it more often to conserve batteries.
 
Yea I concur with everything you said. However, just to clarify, are you saying the M18 draws power even when turned off? Or are you saying it draws quite of bit of current during the shut down cycle? I would be curious to know why in the world it would draw any power when totally off?? That surely doesn't should like something the military would find acceptable. Hell you could put in a fresh set of batteries, take it out into the field and never turn it on. Then one night you need it, pull it out, crank it up and no joy. And you never got a single second of use from a fresh set of batteries!! Can that possibly by acceptable to anyone? Is that the norm and I was just totally unaware of it?

I thought I had a great idea by going to manual and simply dialing down the brightness to even lower than the "night" mode provides. Problem with that is I use and really like the DDE mode 99 percent of the time. Well going into manual takes away the benefit of DDE. They really should have set it up where you could stay in DDE mode but also make simple brightness and/or contract adjustments while staying in DDE mode. For my uses, DDE works famously. I would just like to have the ability to make a simple screen brightness adjustment. Let me keep DDE in use but just be able to turn to dang volume down a little.

Regards,

G.

My M18, when completely powered off, had current drain, enough that it would deplete a set of batteries unnervingly quickly. This is pretty common with digital devices, even my MTM had it though not as bad as the M18. Hell, an Insight flashlight of mine has it so bad it just sits now, great light but not worth the drain on 3 CR123's.

It may be inconvenient but follow the manual and remove the batteries when not in use. This will also save you from accidental power on when placing it in the storage pouch, which can happen despite the detent/latch mechanism.

As for the DoD finding it acceptable, can't speak for them so don't know if it is or isn't. To my knowledge, the M18 isn't a contract winning issued device in the first place, at least in any large numbers. Did the M18 win a DoD contract recently, thought the M18, just like the T70 was passed up for L3 gear?
 
Ok, I've gone thru several sets of batteries now with my m18 and I can confidently say that it does give right around 3 hours for me. In fact my first set of batteries from Radioshack lasted several minutes over the 3 hour mark. This time was accumulated over the course of about a week and a half of 15 to 35 minute sessions with the unit. During this time I did not remove the batteries from the device and because of this I think that it was not drawing any current during the powered off state. My unit is an older unit prior to the core and lens system updates, so perhaps the newer units have a battery issue that could be firmware related. This is just speculation. Or perhaps the new core is drawing more current?..

On a side note, I don't think I will be buying these batteries from RadioShack again as it almost cost $20 for a pair!!!!!! I think I would buy in bulk online.
 
These are the most powerful CR123s you can buy at 1,550mAh, I get them when they have a discount sale 100 at a time.

The 1,400mAh are cheaper, but do not last as long.

Panasonic CR123A 3 Volt Photo Lithium Battery - BatteryJunction.com


If I am going on an all nighter hunt with my M-18, T-70s, T-75, I start out fresh with these. If I am just messing around for a couple of hours I use the cheaper 1,400mAh Titanium ones.

There is NOTHING more aggravating that targeting a nice large boar or coyote and have the batteries die, this has happened way too many times to me.

Another reason why I use my FLIR LS-64 with its long lasting rechargeable internal battery 80% of the time for hand scanning or my FLIR RS64-35mm weapon mounted thermal scope for targeting, they have never gone bad on me on an overnighter after starting out with a fresh charge.....I probably save $500 a year on batteries using the FLIRs internal rechargeables....
 
These are the most powerful CR123s you can buy at 1,550mAh, I get them when they have a discount sale 100 at a time.

The 1,400mAh are cheaper, but do not last as long.

Panasonic CR123A 3 Volt Photo Lithium Battery - BatteryJunction.com




If I am going on an all nighter hunt with my M-18, T-70s, T-75, I start out fresh with these. If I am just messing around for a couple of hours I use the cheaper 1,400mAh Titanium ones.

There is NOTHING more aggravating that targeting a nice large boar or coyote and have the batteries die, this has happened way too many times to me.

Another reason why I use my FLIR LS-64 with its long lasting rechargeable internal battery 80% of the time for hand scanning or my FLIR RS64-35mm weapon mounted thermal scope for targeting, they have never gone bad on me on an overnighter after starting out with a fresh charge.....I probably save $500 a year on batteries using the FLIRs internal rechargeables....

SkyPup,

I swear you are like a FLIR demigod. You certainly give a guy something to aspire to in terms of FLIR acquisitions. Its funny...to hear you say you use your 5000 dollar LS-64, or your 6500 dollar RS64-35mm, instead of your 10,000 dollar M18 to save batteries. All while using a PAIR of 15,000 dollar T-70's AND your 17,000 dollar T-75. Oh and of course there is the venerable pan/tilt FLIR unit you have mounted on your UTV.

You sir, are a FLIR master!!!!

Regards,

G.
Underling
 
I only invest in genuine FLIR thermal gear to mange the vermin on our ranch and protect the rare and endangered species from being destroyed, there is a perpetual Conservation Easement on some of the property and I kill these bastards on sight day or night, without my FLIR gear this place would be out of control totally....