Flustered on What to Buy First

RaptorAddict

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Oct 24, 2020
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Simi Valley, California
I have my rifle (Sako TRG 22), fill bags/positional gear and all my reloading equipment and supplies. But I need a few other things to really get moving with long range and/or PRS. I have a list of things, which I cannot purchase all at once. Trying to decide what to purchase first to last. What's more important??? Any suggestions and things I may have left out would be appreciated.

List of Needs:
Kestrel 5700 Elite
Chronograph
Spotting Scope
Range Finder
Competition Rifle Chassis
Anything Else?
 
Im in pretty much exactly the same boat.

I haven't got any of those and happily shot my first match recently. I don't feel I was missing out on any one of them in particular.


Personally I think chronograph is top of my list at the moment (after more ammo, match entries and accommodation). I also prefer Spotting through binos, so maybe combine LRF and Spotting Scope and get a high end set of Binos?

I also found a triggercam a really handy training tool.
 
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I have my rifle (Sako TRG 22), fill bags/positional gear and all my reloading equipment and supplies. But I need a few other things to really get moving with long range and/or PRS. I have a list of things, which I cannot purchase all at once. Trying to decide what to purchase first to last. What's more important??? Any suggestions and things I may have left out would be appreciated.

List of Needs:
Kestrel 5700 Elite
Chronograph
Spotting Scope
Range Finder
Competition Rifle Chassis
Anything Else?

If you don't have a chrono, weaponized math will get on on target close enough to start refining dope

Borrow the spotting scope, at least at first

Target distances are given to you

Why? The rifle you have has a stock, doesn't it? This is for starting out, remember?

No

ETA my answers above were meant strictly in the context of competing in PRS.

If your focus is just general long range fun, the answer changes. In order of priority:
  1. Kestrel
  2. Rangefinder
  3. Spotter
  4. Chrono
Forget the chassis. The TRG has a good enough stock. Maybe replace the ass end with a KRG folder and call it good.
 
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If you don't have a chrono, weaponized math will get on on target close enough to start refining dope

Borrow the spotting scope, at least at first

Target distances are given to you

Why? The rifle you have has a stock, doesn't it? This is for starting out, remember?

No

ETA my answers above were meant strictly in the context of competing in PRS.

If your focus is just general long range fun, the answer changes. In order of priority:
  1. Kestrel
  2. Rangefinder
  3. Spotter
  4. Chrono
Forget the chassis. The TRG has a good enough stock. Maybe replace the ass end with a KRG folder and call it good.
My plan is to compete in PRS. Going to my first match next month here locally. I using my rifle as it is now. My buddy has a chrono and spotting scope, which I borrow already. Plus my scope is a 32x, so seeing out way past 1000 and reading mirage is pretty manageable already if I don't have a spotter. I chrono'ed two years ago and the rifle is still spot on at 1000 yds. Looking at the Vision Chassis. I could use a Rangefinder for sure. I've been using the Hornady 4dof app, but I can never enter the true barometric pressure, temp, etc. So figured maybe a Kestrel is a must. So I assume Kestrel and Rangefinder for now?
 
If you are shooting long range or matches then a chrono should be the first purchase. You can not hit targets if you don't have good data. You need to know your velocity to get that. If you can borrow one to get data then that can be down the list.

The wind meter is the only other thing that would be helpful eventually on your list and even that can be borrowed or wind data discussed in your first matches. You can get temps and BP close enough from most any online weather app.

Spotters and rangefinder are not a rush for matches.
 
I don't see anything on your list that without having would prohibit you from jumping in and hitting matches.

Put a solid zero on your gun at 100 yards, then download a solver to your phone that'll let you true your muzzle velocity in the 400-600 yards range (Strelok Pro, Geoballistics, etc), then send some out a little further to true your BC. You will need DOPE.

Something that's not on your list that you do need IMO: binos on a tripod (preferably 12x or more mag, and they don't need to be Swaro's for just starting out either, I still use some very blue-collar Kowa's that do what I need them to). The shooting part at ~90 secs per stage goes by quickly, sometimes too quickly, you'll spend most of the day behind binos watching others, and IMO that's where you can get a lot of learning done... Besides, without binos, matches would be mostly lots of standing around waiting for your turn lol!
 
To get started shooting long range matches, you don't need anything on the list at the top of this thread. You do need a quality action, barrel, proper bedding in a decent stock, quality scope and mount properly installed, good trigger, and quality ammo. There are many mass produced factory rifles and factory ammo that will work just fine.

If you are willing to put in some work, you can gather some limited dope and reverse engineer ballistics tables using something like the JBM Ballistics on line tools (what I have used). I've shot many PRS and LR matches up and down the East Coast using factory ammo in both .308 and 6.5 CM, never once used a kestrel, chrono, or electronic range finder. Have had some decent match finishes and hit targets out to 1,000 yards in all weather conditions and never felt accuracy of the rifle or ammo was the problem.

I just built a new AR platform in 5.56 with a 14.7 inch chrome lined barrel and built it to start shooting DMR and RECCE type matches. I went to the range and shot this rifle only two times and then shot my first DMR match just recently. Only data I had going into the match was a 100 yard zero and DOPE at 200 yards. Was able to use reverse engineering with JBM Ballistics to create solid ballistics tables that I printed out and used at the match. Got solid hits on targets from 100 yards, all the way out to max distance for the match at 700 yards. Some other shooters at the match that had all the latest expensive Gucci gear did not get hits at the longer ranges.

Bottom line is, new shooters should not feel intimidated. Take what you have, do a little research and prep work, and you should be able to get started shooting matches without reloading or spending a bunch on all the latest and greatest shiny toys...unless you want to! Don't forget to have fun and enjoy the journey!!!
 
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You do need to know your velocity if you plan to hit targets.
Agree...but...when shooting quality factory ammo you can start with published velocity data and adjust for barrel length if needed to get a velocity number to start the process. Then play with a ballistics calculator like JBM ballistics, which is free and available on line, and print out a ballistics table. Then go shooting and gather some DOPE. Then reverse engineer, verify and true velocity by playing with a ballistics calculator...might need another range visit for more DOPE. I also use Google Earth for elevation data at the location I plan to shoot. I have prepared for many long range matches using this method. Have even won long range prone matches, out to 1,000 yards, against civilian and military team shooters. It can be done without ever measuring velocity with a chrono...ask me how I know.

Not tooting my own horn...just putting my experience out there to show new shooters that they can jump into the deep water without having all the toys that many experienced shooters will say you absolutely need to have. Happy to help any new shooters get started.
 
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Agree...but...when shooting quality factory ammo you can start with published velocity data and adjust for barrel length if needed to get a velocity number to start the process. Then play with a ballistics calculator like JBM ballistics, which is free and available on line, and print out a ballistics table. Then go shooting and gather some DOPE. Then reverse engineer, verify and true velocity by playing with a ballistics calculator...might need another range visit for more DOPE. I also use Google Earth for elevation data at the location I plan to shoot. I have prepared for many long range matches using this method. Have even won long range prone matches, out to 1,000 yards, against civilian and military team shooters. It can be done without ever measuring velocity with a chrono...ask me how I know.

Not tooting my own horn...just putting my experience out there to show new shooters that they can jump into the deep water without having all the toys that many experienced shooters will say you absolutely need to have. Happy to help any new shooters get started.
No you can’t. Box data is garbage. Also not everyone has a long range to shoot on or want to waste money and barrel life on trying to gather velocity data. Going into it without a chrono is stupid with all the money already spent. $200 for a chrono is money very well spent.
 
My plan is to compete in PRS. Going to my first match next month here locally. I using my rifle as it is now. My buddy has a chrono and spotting scope, which I borrow already. Plus my scope is a 32x, so seeing out way past 1000 and reading mirage is pretty manageable already if I don't have a spotter. I chrono'ed two years ago and the rifle is still spot on at 1000 yds. Looking at the Vision Chassis. I could use a Rangefinder for sure. I've been using the Hornady 4dof app, but I can never enter the true barometric pressure, temp, etc. So figured maybe a Kestrel is a must. So I assume Kestrel and Rangefinder for now?
1000 yards? With a .22? Are they setting up 22 matches for that kind go distance now?
 
If all you have is a 100 yd range, maybe. Lucky for me I have access to a mile if I wanted to.
Not everyone does. I only had 400 yards for my most of my comp shooting so a chrono was worth it’s weight in gold. Amazes me people saying not to have a chrono.

Also when you add in the price of factory ammo at $35+ a box that you will be wasting with all that “weaponized math” and time a chrono makes even more sense. Then if handloading and wanting to get ES/SD data a chrono is needed.
 
Never said or suggested that folks shouldn't have a chrono. Just said that you don't need one to determine velocity. And I think it's important to let new shooters know they don't need one right away if they feel overwhelmed by the cost to get into LR shooting and are just looking at a priority list of what they do need.

Other experts seem to agree. In the video below, experts from Precision Rifle Network take 6 shots to determine velocity without a chrono. I guess the mods here will say they don't know what they are talking about either.
 
Never said or suggested that folks shouldn't have a chrono. Just said that you don't need one to determine velocity. And I think it's important to let new shooters know they don't need one right away if they feel overwhelmed by the cost to get into LR shooting and are just looking at a priority list of what they do need.

Other experts seem to agree. In the video below, experts from Precision Rifle Network take 6 shots to determine velocity without a chrono. I guess the mods here will say they don't know what they are talking about either.

Although they should probably get used to an unreasonable amount of expenses if they are going to choose this as a hobby.
 
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Never said or suggested that folks shouldn't have a chrono. Just said that you don't need one to determine velocity. And I think it's important to let new shooters know they don't need one right away if they feel overwhelmed by the cost to get into LR shooting and are just looking at a priority list of what they do need.

Other experts seem to agree. In the video below, experts from Precision Rifle Network take 6 shots to determine velocity without a chrono. I guess the mods here will say they don't know what they are talking about either.


Can you do it? Yes but it’s much more difficult and will cost more in time, wasted ammo and barrel life. You can pace off a 1000 yards too but it’s easier with a laser range finder. Lol As mentioned if $200 is going to break them then they got into the wrong sport. 😉 It will actually save them money in ammo and barrels in the end. Oh and how do you get your ES/SD numbers with your little shoot a lot of ammo to get velocity? Also if your scope doesn’t track 100% those numbers still correct? Hmmmm.

You want to waste your time and money then have at it “experts” but I will use a chrono and will continue to advise newer shooters to get one.
 
I see all what is being said and it seems there's quite a lot of opinions. For now I ordered the LRF Bino's and the Kestrel 5700 Elite. Next will be a spotter and chrono. Not that I don't want to spend, or anything of that sort. That's my problem. I like all the toys and gadgets whether they are a must, or not, regardless of their price. But I spend as I can afford with some patience. Having a body shop can be volatile when waiting to be paid by insurance companies. LOL! But I purchased what I figured will do me good for now. I appreciate all the feedback here!
 
I see all what is being said and it seems there's quite a lot of opinions. For now I ordered the LRF Bino's and the Kestrel 5700 Elite. Next will be a spotter and chrono. Not that I don't want to spend, or anything of that sort. That's my problem. I like all the toys and gadgets whether they are a must, or not, regardless of their price. But I spend as I can afford with some patience. Having a body shop can be volatile when waiting to be paid by insurance companies. LOL! But I purchased what I figured will do me good for now. I appreciate all the feedback here!

Yeah if you can borrow your buddy’s chrono then the other two are good buys for now. I wouldn’t buy a spotter next. A chrono is much more useful. The binos can spot at matches and you won’t want to carry a spotter around. Unless maybe you get a smaller version but don’t get anything huge.
 
Definitely a chrono if you don't have access to use someone else's.

1. Kestrel 5700 Elite - not necessary as you can run ballistics off of an app. I prefer the Kestrel as its designed to be used in adverse conditions (cellphones are not), and the capability to measure wind. But a Kestrel is certainly not necessary.
2. Spotting scope - don't need for PRS. It's nice to have glass to see what's happening downrange, but definitely not a necessity. I would also get a good pair of bino's (10-15x) before a spotting scope any day for this purpose. But not a need.
3. Range finder - nice to have, but not necessary for PRS. Other competitions sometimes require ranging on the clock, I don't think any PRS match does that. Other competitors will have LRF's if any ranges are considered suspect or need to be verified.
4. Competition chassis - again, nice to have (depending on your preferences) but not necessary.
 
Seems I have all I need for now then. Yes I want to compete in PRS, but I am also into long range and hunting and far distances (within reason). So the Kestrel is something I want to have on hand. Spotter I see now is not a big necessity, so that's out for now. Only thing left is a chrono, and this I a more into when it comes to my SD's. Still can borrow my buddies for now.

If I don't really NEED a competition chassis, then I'd rather sit with my TRG fixed stock. I'm very good with it, even when positional shooting with a sling. Just missing the arca rail, which I'm not sure how too often it's needed in PRS. I know there is an arca for the TRG stock, but darn it can look a bit ugly!
 
Damn how do I hit targets at matches without a Kestrel but with a chrono?!?!? :ROFLMAO:
:ROFLMAO:

Yup Raptor don't buy a chrono but build a range to 1000 yards so you can shoot out to it to get your velocity. LOL
 
Are you serious with this? What can a chronograph possibly tell you that three rounds at 600 yards can’t? And I’m not talking about SD/ES. If 2850fps, as the speed input to your ballistic solver of choice, gets to center of plate at 600 then that’s the speed…no matter what the other electronic equipment guesses.

You can certainly do what you propose and work backwards, and confirm dope at different distances to ensure that it works appropriately. I don't work that way and I don't think that's the easiest way to do things, especially if you don't have access to targets at distance (especially multiple), but I can see how it can be done in the right circumstances.

I know many have to "massage" the results of their ballistic program anyways, to one of your points. I've never personally have had that issue - I've always been able to use my data off my chrono, input it into the Kestrel with AB using their custom curves, and have had reliable outputs. No tweaking or "massaging" of MV's. But it's important to set everything up correctly in your Kestrel/ballistics app, and not all programs are equal.
 
Are you serious with this? What can a chronograph possibly tell you that three rounds at 600 yards can’t? And I’m not talking about SD/ES. If 2850fps, as the speed input to your ballistic solver of choice, gets to center of plate at 600 then that’s the speed…no matter what the other electronic equipment guesses.

Not everyone has 600+ yard ranges! What don't you guys get about that? I have never had a 600 yard range until this year and I have shot matches for 20 years. You know how I won matches and hit targets to 1000+? A chrono.

A chrono gives you the data you need to put into your program to make hits. Not a guess but the actual velocity. It's that simple. The ballistic programs today are much more accurate than 20 years ago. Putting in my true velocity I have never been off more than .2 mils at 1000 yards and most of the time on or .1 mil.

So you don't care about your ES/SD when working up a load for matches?
 
Not everyone has 600+ yard ranges! What don't you guys get about that? I have never had a 600 yard range until this year and I have shot matches for 20 years. You know how I won matches and hit targets to 1000+? A chrono.

A chrono gives you the data you need to put into your program to make hits. Not a guess but the actual velocity. It's that simple. The ballistic programs today are much more accurate than 20 years ago. Putting in my true velocity I have never been off more than .2 mils at 1000 yards and most of the time on or .1 mil.

So you don't care about your ES/SD when working up a load for matches?
I’ll have to agree on this. As I was getting my feet wet with long range, my buddy took me out to chrono. Found the SD and after plugging in velocity and my best charge weight and so on, I was able to make hits at 1000 using that data. Used the Hornady 4dof app. One may then ask, why do I need a kestrel??? I’ll be honest. I want the damn thing, straight up. 🤣
 
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I’m only mildly interested in my SD because if I’m shooting factory, I can’t change it anyway and if it’s my reloads, they are reliably under 10 always…so I no longer really care to check them.

If I had no access to any range beyond 400 yards, including on “check in and zero” day, I guess I’d run chrono speed and box BC. I’d also get a range membership and drive several hours each way to make sure I didn’t have to.

To each their own.
How do you know your handloads are under 10 for SD?

And a 6 hour round trip to a range is hardly worth it over chrono and a good ballistic program. But as you said to each his own.
 
Because I shot 30 of them over a chrono and came up with an SD of 6.7.

So you use a chrono? LOL Sorry was too easy.

And I'm the "Cool Mod" because I don't ban people at the drop of a hat like most others did/do. Not because I use a chrono. I don't know everything, and never claimed to, but I know how to make hitting a target at longer ranges easier when not having the ability to get out and shoot those ranges. ;)
 
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You don't mention your caliber or what you have for glass. I've found that you can get it done with a SWFA 10x, but good glass is worth it. You should spend at least as much on your scope as you did the rifle in my opinion.
As far as Kestrel vs Chrono-why not both? A Magnetospeed sporter is $250. You can pick up a Kestrel Elite for around $6-650. I can say that the Kestrel was more valuable for ME. I also have access to a few practice ranges that go to 900+ yds. I really only use the Chrono to get an initial velocity and verify SD's. After that, I true everything in the Kestrel. YMMV
 
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One may then ask, why do I need a kestrel??? I’ll be honest. I want the damn thing, straight up. 🤣
That's a different criteria than need, much less NEED to start (start! remember the OP says he's fixin to shoot his 1st match) shooting matches

Have any of y'all ever won your 1st match*es) without years of experience and/or training in the military to fall back on? I know I haven't.

M
 
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You don't mention your caliber or what you have for glass. I've found that you can get it done with a SWFA 10x, but good glass is worth it. You should spend at least as much on your scope as you did the rifle in my opinion.
As far as Kestrel vs Chrono-why not both? A Magnetospeed sporter is $250. You can pick up a Kestrel Elite for around $6-650. I can say that the Kestrel was more valuable for ME. I also have access to a few practice ranges that go to 900+ yds. I really only use the Chrono to get an initial velocity and verify SD's. After that, I true everything in the Kestrel. YMMV
Chambered in 6.5CM, glass is Nightforce NX8 32x. I chrono'ed my rifle once and got the SD and since then everything has been dialed out to 1000, somewhat. Need to true to a good device, I think. I assume I should chrono soon to check my SD's to make sure everything is still sharp. I now practice every weekend at a range with plates out to 1575 yds. But only have been out to 1000.
 
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Sounds like you have a great start. If you already have MV and access to distance, I would just true your data to whatever solver you are using now. Kestrel's just combine all of that in one with the added benefit of environmentals and a bunch of other cool stuff that most people don't use
 
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No you can’t. Box data is garbage. Also not everyone has a long range to shoot on or want to waste money and barrel life on trying to gather velocity data. Going into it without a chrono is stupid with all the money already spent. $200 for a chrono is money very well spent.
True. But you can also get on a range and just dope your rifle in at 100 yard increments. Once you have range data in your data book. You just dial for dollars.

That is the one thing I didn’t see on the OP’s list. A good databook.

Sorry if I am being an old fart here. But a TRG and a case of factory ammo (they love Black Hills Match) and a day shooting from 100-1000 and dialing in zero and you not only get
To know your rifle really well, but you get some valuable practice in everything from wind reading to mirage to… everything else that gear won’t solve.

Gear is Great. I love gee gaws and whatchmacallits and dingus’s.

But the OP can get his dope.. get well familiarized with his TRG (still a great rifle) and in a few months will know exactly what gear he needs, because he will know why he needs it.

Just my two cents. With inflation, more like 0.8 cents.

Sirhr
 
I have my rifle (Sako TRG 22), fill bags/positional gear and all my reloading equipment and supplies. But I need a few other things to really get moving with long range and/or PRS. I have a list of things, which I cannot purchase all at once. Trying to decide what to purchase first to last. What's more important??? Any suggestions and things I may have left out would be appreciated.

List of Needs:
Kestrel 5700 Elite
Chronograph
Spotting Scope
Range Finder
Competition Rifle Chassis
Anything Else?
None of the above. A case of good factory match ammo. And a databook.

Doesn’t anyone buy data books any more?

I love electronic stuff. But a good databook that records your every shot or string… is solid gold.

Meh… I still have a typewriter and can write cursive. What do I know?

See above for more.

Sirhr
 
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None of the above. A case of good factory match ammo. And a databook.

Doesn’t anyone buy data books any more?

I love electronic stuff. But a good databook that records your every shot or string… is solid gold.

Meh… I still have a typewriter and can write cursive. What do I know?

See above for more.

Sirhr
Completely forgot to mention after all this, I've been collecting data for this rifle since 2021 (when I bought it). I reference everything in it all the time. Load data and measurements is what I reference most from it.
 
True. But you can also get on a range and just dope your rifle in at 100 yard increments. Once you have range data in your data book. You just dial for dollars.

That is the one thing I didn’t see on the OP’s list. A good databook.

Sorry if I am being an old fart here. But a TRG and a case of factory ammo (they love Black Hills Match) and a day shooting from 100-1000 and dialing in zero and you not only get
To know your rifle really well, but you get some valuable practice in everything from wind reading to mirage to… everything else that gear won’t solve.

Gear is Great. I love gee gaws and whatchmacallits and dingus’s.

But the OP can get his dope.. get well familiarized with his TRG (still a great rifle) and in a few months will know exactly what gear he needs, because he will know why he needs it.

Just my two cents. With inflation, more like 0.8 cents.

Sirhr

And you have a 200 yard range. Then what? Or change ammo? A chrono makes life easy.
 
1000 yards? With a .22? Are they setting up 22 matches for that kind go distance now?
You do know that a TRG-22 is a Sako tier one .308 or 6.5 or 260, right? Some other cals, too, I think. TRG 42 was the .300 Win Mag and .338, IIRC.

So, yes a great 1000 yard prs rifle if a bit heavy. OP doesn’t need a chassis or folder. I’ve now shot a TRG for almost 15 years. It’s just broken in. Superb rifle.

Sirhr
 
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So, yes a great 1000 yard prs rifle if a bit heavy.
My TRG with the 26" barrel I think weighs in appox 12 lbs, or so with the scope and heavy stock TRG muzzle brake. Do you think that's enough weight? Any other ways to add weight to this rifle as it sits? I guess a key thing would be center of balance. When positional shooting, the recoil really isn't that bad. Be nice to have a baracade stop, but I don't care for adding another companies' fore-end. If I went that route, I would just splurge for the Vision chassis.
 
My TRG with the 26" barrel I think weighs in appox 12 lbs, or so with the scope and heavy stock TRG muzzle brake. Do you think that's enough weight? Any other ways to add weight to this rifle as it sits? I guess a key thing would be center of balance. When positional shooting, the recoil really isn't that bad. Be nice to have a baracade stop, but I don't care for adding another companies' fore-end. If I went that route, I would just splurge for the Vision chassis.
I would not add weight! PRS courses… some of them… are serious about covering ground and moving gear. TRG is one heavy rifle!!!

You will find that with a good Bipod and a bag, you can do anything you want.

The recoil on a TRG-22 is irrelevant. It is so heavy that you won’t notice a thing.

More weight is probably not your friend!!!

It’s a fine rifle. One to grow into. Because it’s as good as they get out of the box. Just like an AI. Both were “the”’rifles as little as 10 years ago. And are still just fine for virtually any competition or duty.

Cheers, Sirhr
 
I would not add weight! PRS courses… some of them… are serious about covering ground and moving gear. TRG is one heavy rifle!!!

You will find that with a good Bipod and a bag, you can do anything you want.

The recoil on a TRG-22 is irrelevant. It is so heavy that you won’t notice a thing.

More weight is probably not your friend!!!

It’s a fine rifle. One to grow into. Because it’s as good as they get out of the box. Just like an AI. Both were “the”’rifles as little as 10 years ago. And are still just fine for virtually any competition or duty.

Cheers, Sirhr

PRS has evolved drastically, such that rifles that are built for "duty" are not optimal for PRS type games. While I have no experience with TRG's, AI's for examples are NOT optimal PRS rifles.

There's little crossover in design elements when optimizing a rifle for duty/work and for a rifle which will be used in PRS.

PRS has turned into "barricade benchrest" as Frank aptly puts it, a much different game then its original roots of evolving from tactical disciplines. PRS rifles are very heavy (25+ lbs in some cases), with balance points designed just in front of the magwell, utilizing barricade bags in conjunction with wide stabilizing platforms such as AMP plates, using super light triggers to shoot 6mm projectiles. TRG's and AI's are not designed to be used in the manner that PRS rifles of today are.

All that said, will a TRG work for PRS? Absolutely. Is it optimal? Most definitely not, but if you have no ambitions of being on the podium then who cares? If the OP's goal for PRS is to have fun and come out of it a better shooter, then his TRG is perfect. Personally I could care less if my rifle was optimized for PRS - I shoot to hang out with friends, to challenge myself as a shooter and come out of it a better shooter and with a better understanding of how my equipment works under stress. I don't need a rifle optimized for PRS to achieve that, and perhaps neither does the OP.
 
But I will agree with you that I don't think the OP should add weight or change his TRG. Go out and shoot a PRS match with that rifle as is.

Have fun, embrace the challenge and go into it with an open mind knowing that you probably won't score as well as you may think (but not because of your rifle or gear).
 
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The last three answers fit my bill! Thank you kthomas and sirhrmechanic! You both just explained where I am mentally. I will head in with what I have and enjoy. Never been to a match, so I didn't really know what to expect yet.

And seriously... get one of these. If the Snipers Hide is not available, get their standard book.

databook.jpg


Seriously.

And read Frank's discussions here about Weaponized Math. And get this:

galli book.jpg


Read the chapter on Weaponized Math. Then read again as you won't fully absorb it the first time.

Cheers,

Sirhr

PS: My TRG... The day I painted it. About 2008 or so.

trg picture 2.jpg



PPS. Make Rob Happy and buy a Chronograph. I'd send you mine, but I think I have it wedged under a wobbly desk foot or something.
 
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PPS. Make Rob Happy and buy a Chronograph. I'd send you mine, but I think I have it wedged under a wobbly desk foot or something.

Doesn't effect me either way. I have a chrono and been using one for decades. Just trying to make his life easier but if he wants to make life harder and waste time, ammo and barrel life then he can have at it. LOL
 
Step 1: find a shooting buddy that has all the gear.
Step 2: borrow as needed.
Step 3: buy your own once you find out what you like.

My shooting buddy has a Magnetospeed which I use all the time, and I already had a data book…

So other than the rifle/scope/bipod, I think my first ‘big’ purchase was a Kestrel 5700. Next was a tripod which I find myself using a lot. I place a Schmedium on it for dryfire practicing at different heights, shoot off it, or use it for rear support. I also use it to support my binos on when spotting. My last big purchase was a pair of LRF binos that I can sync to my Kestrel and get distance/dope at the same time.

But I bought all the above over a span of about 6-8 months.