Folding hanger for Steel targets

T

Tch2fly

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Minuteman
Mar 23, 2010
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#1
I been mulling over ideas for a target holder for my steel targets and while wandering through Home Depot I spotted some folding steel sawhorses for $30. They are stamped steel (yes it is thin and yes I know a round will make a big hole
wink.gif
) but they are adjustable for height (25-34") and seemed heavy enough to be stable during impact so I bought a couple.
My brother is a fireman so he provided me 10' of old hose to hang the targets. Here is the folded version and ready to shoot in the highest leg position (12" steel).
097.jpg

070.jpg


Yesterday was our family celebration of the 4th and with several shooters in the group I had a chance to see how it would hold up.
I was very pleased with the ease of transport, the quick set-up and the stability, never once fell or shifted. Fortunately nobody hit the stand but the splatter from the rounds did blast the paint off (see lower pics), I plan to hit it with spray paint after each use like I do the targets. Here it is in lowest leg position:
091.jpg



I was please with the firehose even though the outer layer suffered a lot of damage, in no way is the integrity compromised, I do intend to put a small steel deflector above the target to slow down the damage.
093.jpg
You can also see a bullet went through the hose with minimal damage.
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094.jpg

 
#7
Re: Steel target hanger

Geat idea here man....tell are you using AR500 steal,,it looks like those bullets were just bouncing off the steal

Also, you might try a chain instead of a deflector...I doubt if you hit the chain too many times. If you did, your left right wind would be right on the money. I shoot my targets at 1,000 plus and dead center hits are uncommon because of little wind shifts

zman
 
#8
Re: Steel target hanger

crap I got a bunch of those metal sawhorses & It never even crossed my mind to use them as makeshift Hangers. You get them on sale around here for $19.95 . They look pretty mobile also. I think the legs get up to 4-ft. in length if you stretch them out.

ONLY downside to using Sawhorse Hanger is, Got to keep the Webbing flush as possible with the face of the plate on bullet splatter, Flush back-side mounted webbing will take little abuse from splatter when hanging a Plate.
The reason your Straps get so torn-up with the Bullet Splatter is that you got the webbing wide at the top, as the Sawhorse is wide. So that the webbing parallel above the plate is in a overhung-V.( it taluses out above & out in front ) of plate face and is catching all the splatter, If you look @ your Sawhorse hanger & plate in a side-view, it will be made pretty clear .
Even so, the metal Sawhorse Hanger is pretty slick and easy for easy setting-up and tear-down for shooting .

All I use is webbing for hanging steel. I built metal fence post hanger Leg/frame & I got all my webbing hanging from a piece of cheep 5/8" #5 Re-bar . Sew a Loop & the top of the webbing and slide it threw . Re-bar is cheep & will take quite a few hits before it goes down.
You don't need AR temper steel if you get them out far enough . I use this 10-inch Diam. Cheepass-'made in CHINA', cast-steel street utilities cover hanging @ 860 yrd. & it get pounded with .308 .300wm & 300sm all the time and it hold together. It is the fast vel. 7mm RUM's that really tear cheep steel up. especially if it's under 500 yard.
.
001-2.jpg

.
 
#9
Re: Steel target hanger

I used the exact same sawhorses to hold two 8 steel plates last weekend in Oregon. I rigged up some chain clamped to 2" C clamps on the back side and they worked great. We shot everything from a .22 up to a 357 lever action and the only change I would make would be to use thicker chain. One or two links are near failure with bites taken out from errant rounds. You are right, rounds did make a BIG hole through the stands, but it was something I was prepared for (take a hammer and gloves to pound the sharp edges back into place) Never had a stand fall over and they were rock steady from 100 yards up to 25 yards.
 
#10
Re: Steel target hanger

Ya hangers no matter what they are destined to get beat to shit. My brother uses some Chain on a couple of his plates and they get hit once in a while also. he used some cheaper stuff and it is not good. That Fire Hose to hang from sounds pretty good. Fire Hose has a good strong weave to it. Should be pretty good for the long-run with hits and splatter. I really like use any kind of poly or nylon webbing for hanging plates, that has to be the most duable of anything I seen so far . Lots of people out there dong it.
.
 
#11
Re: Steel target hanger

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jim the Plumber</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Take and cut the hose down the length of it and lay it out. You should be able to reach both bolt holes and still be strong enough.
</div></div>
The hose is not wide enough to do that on a 12" plate. I have 4 pieces of the steel and on the 8" and 4" they do hang "square" from both holes, the 12" and 6" I specifically hung from only one for a "diamond" target.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: softcock</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

ONLY downside to using Sawhorse Hanger is, Got to keep the Webbing flush as possible with the face of the plate on bullet splatter, Flush back-side mounted webbing will take little abuse from splatter when hanging a Plate.
The reason your Straps get so torn-up with the Bullet Splatter is that you got the webbing wide at the top, as the Sawhorse is wide. So that the webbing parallel above the plate is in a overhung-V.( it taluses out above & out in front ) of plate face and is catching all the splatter, If you look @ your Sawhorse hanger & plate in a side-view, it will be made pretty clear .
</div></div>

Yeah once I walked out to the target I knew why it happened, I just failed to anticipate it
blush.gif
.
I wanted the hose to be a loop so I can swap out the different plates quickly and I wouldn't have to drill holes or modify the sawhorse in any way (I plan to use them around the house as well)
I looked for webbing until I realized I could get the hose free
grin.gif


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ECH</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I used the exact same sawhorses to hold two 8 steel plates last weekend in Oregon. I rigged up some chain clamped to 2" C clamps on the back side and they worked great. We shot everything from a .22 up to a 357 lever action and the only change I would make would be to use thicker chain. One or two links are near failure with bites taken out from errant rounds. You are right, rounds did make a BIG hole through the stands, but it was something I was prepared for (take a hammer and gloves to pound the sharp edges back into place) Never had a stand fall over and they were rock steady from 100 yards up to 25 yards. </div></div>
Based on experiences like yours I didn't want chain. As I said above I didn't want to modify the stand by drilling holes or anything so the clamps are a great idea.
cool.gif
 
#12
Re: Steel target hanger

Nice.. How did it take the hits?? Hid the stand tip when hit? Was it solid as can be??

Interested in maybe picking me up one of these now.
 
#14
Re: Steel target hanger

If you will have a bolt or loop welded to the back of the plate, about 1/4 of the way from the top, and suspend the plate by that, the plate will have a bit of a downward slope and the splatter will be deflected into the dirt rather than up into the hose. JMHO
 
#15
Re: Steel target hanger

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CK_32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Nice.. How did it take the hits?? Hid the stand tip when hit? Was it solid as can be??

Interested in maybe picking me up one of these now. </div></div>

In looking at options I was concerned about a light stand flipping over backwards, these have enough weight to dampen the impact, very solid, no sign of movement in the stand when hit even with the target swinging around
FWIW The largest round I was using was .308 168 grain HP
 
#16
Re: Steel target hanger

Nice rig. You could always run a bolt through the top of the saw horse, backing it with a bit of steel plate and leaving a good portion, say 2" of it beyond the nut, then punch a hole through the fire hose and hang it on the bolt shank. This would keep the hose towards the back of the plate and away from the splatter. And you could swap the targets out by simply lifting the hose off the bolt. Thinking out loud...
 
#18
Re: Steel target hanger

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: YourMotherTrebek</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think that is a great idea.

Are there any out there that are 50 inches or so tall? </div></div>

Thanks.

I'm not sure if they have anything taller but I think these could easily be modified with some 1" square tubing. Here is a closer look at the adjustable portions of the legs...
a070lg_crop.jpg

They are sort of a c-channel (as shown in the red circled area) you could bolt in some 2' sections of square tube (using the holes in the yellow circle)and that would get you over 50 inches high. I'm not sure if it would be as stable and of course they would have to be removed to fold but an option if more height is needed.
 
#19
Re: Steel target hanger

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you will have a bolt or loop welded to the back of the plate, about 1/4 of the way from the top, and suspend the plate by that, the plate will have a bit of a downward slope and the splatter will be deflected into the dirt rather than up into the hose. JMHO </div></div>

Not a bad idea, I'll have to try it on mine and see if it makes a difference.
 
#20
Re: Steel target hanger

I bought a couple of these sawhorses a while back for the same purpose. One got pretty hosed by novice shooters spamming the target. Now I just use the saw horse hinges that use 2x4 as legs and crossbeams. They're cheaper and seem to hold up a bit better.

Here's my method of hanging that I came up with after lots of different setups and hardware. This keeps the rope from getting cut from splatter since it's on the backside, but also allows the target to hang straight. Also it seems to cause the least amount of abrasion to the rope by running the bolt straight through the rope.

It's changed a little since this pic. Now I use grade 8 hardware that is larger. Part of the key to retention is to use a split ring lock washer. Nylon rope bought from walmart is cheap. I found that the rope that's thicker but made from more thin strands actually holds up better than ones made from thick strands. Make sure to bring some electrical tape to tie up each end before cutting to keep fraying down. I've got rope that's lasted around 8 outings before giving up. Grade 8 bolts still get messed up, but can take a direct hit.

IPSC_45_2.jpg


IPSC_45_3.jpg


IPSC_45_1.jpg
 
#22
Re: Steel target hanger

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: osuarchitect</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Nice ideas. Who made the steel targets?
wink.gif
Looks pretty good for a direct edge hit. </div></div>
Yep they came from you
grin.gif


My son and a group of his friends borrowed them last week and worked them over pretty good ... even with a bunch of hit at the edges all they need is fresh coat of paint.
You will be hearing from me in a month or two so I can get some IPSC style
 
#23
Re: Steel target hanger

I made mine from threaded pipe in the plumbing section. Spend some time there and you will find plenty of threaded angles and sections to make a metal hanger and they are portable by unscrewing the pipe legs. I used 1/2" legs and a 3/4 crossbar and they have held up real well to bullet splatter. If I remember correctly its about $50 for then parts to domone and they last a long time......just use galvanized pipe and grease the threads on the legs so you can get them off easily later if you want it to be packable.
 
#24
Re: Steel target hanger

You have any pictures of your setup?


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ggmanning</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I made mine from threaded pipe in the plumbing section. Spend some time there and you will find plenty of threaded angles and sections to make a metal hanger and they are portable by unscrewing the pipe legs. I used 1/2" legs and a 3/4 crossbar and they have held up real well to bullet splatter. If I remember correctly its about $50 for then parts to domone and they last a long time......just use galvanized pipe and grease the threads on the legs so you can get them off easily later if you want it to be packable. </div></div>
 
#25
Re: Steel target hanger

Excellent thread with great ideas. I went lower tech... Errr... cheaper... and used the light weight galvanized steel saw horse mounts that accept a 2x4. an 8ft 2x4 cut in half makes one set of legs, and the top 2x4 "rail" can be custom cut to length. total cost per stand... Approx $13 at homey D.
the fire hose idea is BRILLIANT, simply because it was FREE!!!.
I am gonna go to a bicycle store in town and ask for some worn out mountain bike tires. Ill use them to hang my steel from the stands. Im using chains now...but it makes everything heavy to drag out to the shooting range.
 
#27
Re: Folding hanger for Steel targets

What I have seen that works as good or better than hose is belting. Go to the county shop or the local gravel crusher and get some used rubber belting. It drills ok, hangs straight, and takes a lot of bullets. The guys from Missoula use it to hang their steel for the Potomac shoots and it works great. I am definitely going to use the sawhorse idea for my steel plate.
 
#28
Re: Steel target hanger

I don't have a pic handy, but I use baler belts from a local John Deere supply. Occasionally they have to replace belts under warranty for excessive wear or damage. The old ones were stacked out back. I explained what I wanted them for and they let me have about 30' of 8" wide belt. I usually cut about 18" off, split it half for two 4" strips.

Of course the holes on my steel are 2" apart and centered on the top of the target. Fold it over and run carriage head bolts front to back and i'm good to go.

Made A frames out of 3/4" pipe with a short piece of 1" pipe on top with a set screw. Cut whatever length of 3/4" pipe you want for the cross piece. Place the cross piece through the loop of belt and fasten the cross piece in the top of the other a frame and tighten the set screw.

They have held up real well. The baler belt is tough and with both pieces of the belt at the back, it hangs at about a 5 degree angle forward slant, so I get little to no spatter damage to the belt.

If you have access to or can get baler belt, it works great.

BLK7
 
#31
Re: Steel target hanger

I will try and get pictures, but I found an easy and cheap way for hangers.

The steel that I was using was a IPSC target and a 10" circle. The IPSC has a hole in the neck and the circle has one towards the top.

Get Rebar, 3/8 I think. Cut 6, five foot Pieces (makes 2 stands).
In the hardware isle find a eye bolt that will slide over 3 piece of rebar. slip the eye bolt over the three and make is into a tripod. The eye bolt acts as the pivot point and keeps them form sliding.
You can stab the rebar into the ground to make is stable. The plate will hang between the two of the legs.
I bought an additional U bolt to add to the pivot point to keep then three form slipping too much.
stand2.jpg

stand.jpg


Set up is very fast and cost about $15.00 for two stands. It is what I could come up with having no access to a welder.

I have not had one fall over yet. when your done they will slide in a round cardboard tube.

Willys
 
#32
Re: Steel target hanger

AWESOME Idea for only $15.00!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Willys46</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I will try and get pictures, but I found an easy and cheap way for hangers.

The steel that I was using was a IPSC target and a 10" circle. The IPSC has a hole in the neck and the circle has one towards the top.

Get Rebar, 3/8 I think. Cut 6, five foot Pieces (makes 2 stands).
In the hardware isle find a eye bolt that will slide over 3 piece of rebar. slip the eye bolt over the three and make is into a tripod. The eye bolt acts as the pivot point and keeps them form sliding.
You can stab the rebar into the ground to make is stable. The plate will hang between the two of the legs.
I bought an additional U bolt to add to the pivot point to keep then three form slipping too much.
stand2.jpg

stand.jpg


Set up is very fast and cost about $15.00 for two stands. It is what I could come up with having no access to a welder.

I have not had one fall over yet. when your done they will slide in a round cardboard tube.

Willys </div></div>
 
#34
Re: Steel target hanger

Inspired by the OP, I got some similar sawhorses from "this side of the bond" (two pairs so 4 sawhorses total):

20-024_l.jpg


I used chain to attach some armor grade steel plates (10mm, just a bit thicker than 3/8") and we shot them at several distances up to 500 meters (550y):

pleitit.jpg


This was kind of a test, there were resetting problems with 338 LM (like in the picture, 500m distance) and 223 hits (75 BTHP) were quite impossible to spot at longer distances w/ handheld optics.

Looking forward trying them out in the summer. I plan on attaching some light chain to the bottom of uprights, so I can place some weight on them as necessary.

It would be neat to attach a fabric between the uprights, but then you'd have to shovel some sand evenly on top of the canvas so that splatter wouldn't cut right through it...
 
#35
Re: Steel target hanger

Update - Still using the steel sawhorses but switched to eye-bolts and chains (a switch to webbing is in the future) even with a few bullet holes they are holding up great. I liked it so much I got two more.

I started bringing my pistols and rimfires when was doing my distance work and due to my choice of venues I needed a stand. I wanted a similar set-up ... cheap and compact.
I was scrounging around the garage picking through some odds and ends ... came up with this:

It fits in a 42" duffel
target1.jpg


The pieces:
target2.jpg


Set up clay pigeons:
target3.jpg


Set up with a flat top for bottles, cans, etc:
target4.jpg


with steel target hanging below(and my other hangers):
target5.jpg


I did end up buying some do-it-yourself sign material at Office Max as the backing material for the paper targets, I just staple the targets to the backing.
Other than that I made it from stuff I had laying around (the spinning handgun targets were x-mas gift from my wife).
To hold the backing sheet I just took a couple chunks of PVC pipe and cut a groove along the length, I just slide the plastic sheet in as seen here:
001.jpg


004.jpg


The steel hanger pieces were old sway bar brackets off my Land Cruiser and the clay pigeon holder is just some aluminum c-channel.
The shelf has a wooden rib that rides in the channel to keep it from falling off. I was worried the legs wouldn't stay rigid enough
so I made a couple cross braces out of some flat steel stock and carraige bolts with wingnuts for easy adjustment.

As the crossbar gets all shot up I can go get another 2x4 and be back in business for $2 and 30 minutes work
grin.gif

















 
#36
Re: Steel target hanger

Tch, those are neat-ass targets. I also like the baler belt material.

Truck tire tread is even tougher.

At a minimum a hacksaw or similar saw will be needed to cut it. The shits everywhere - of course don't get ya little ass run over trying scavenge it off the road. If you can score it though that stuff is tougher than boot leather.

The best material we ever used was chain -- heavy logging chain, although its expensive, you can find it at farm auctions and estate sales. The better part of chain is the steel target is allowed to be more audible (for our friends in S. Lousiana that means you can hear the impacts better). Teasing, guys. We love ya. But come shoot with us sometime.

And by the way, worn out farm disc harrow blades make awesome steel targets because they're made of, I believe, spring steel. Whatever, they ring like a proverbial bell when impacted. Weld up the center hole and while the welder's at it weld a good chain to the edge, but its better to bolt the chain on because if a hot round impacts directly on the front side of the blade where the weld is located it can break the weld loose. Better, clearly, to replace the bolt than to haul the target back to the welder. Some disc blades run @ 24" diameter.

If its worn thin weld two together (sandwich). Let the welder know your intent to try and destroy this steel disc with hyper-velocity, heavy bullets so the he or she might use a welding rod and a cooling method as to maximize the weld strength.
Alright, I'm making it sound complicated but to a welder is just a day at the shop. There ya go.
 
#40
Re: Steel target hanger

Hoff, we shot the match at Lone Range Galley on the hottest September the Rich chose as a match weekend. I shot an AR 10 6.5x47. You know. The one that the smith mailed my bolt to the wrong address and after three long weeks it arrived the morning of the match, new gun, little load work, bolt bushing not done right, feed problems. I was the one beating on the rifle all day.

Anyway, I'm in Shreveport. Call me.

318,572,0559
 
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