Forming 6.5 SAUM From 300 SAUM help

[RugerSlinger]

I have read thru the Care and Feeding of GAP 6.5 SAUM and now have a question with starting from 300 SAUM Brass.

After neck sizing it down in 3 steps, I feel I still have a little bit of the neck that isn't fully sized down at the junction of the shoulder and the neck. I have necked down 7-08 brass to 260 and I get the same thing. But heres the dilemma, when turning the necks down to the desired thickness where do you stop on the neck? I went down as far as the top of the slight bulge.

Heres where I stopped, let me know what you think.

 

[Papagallos]

I may be wrong, but you should turn the brass slightly onto the shoulder.

 

[Bluejazz]

I would go alittle farther and cut into the neck/shoulder junction just alittle bit.

 

[long range newbie]

on the note of that how it doesn't size to the shoulder, I get the same thing but all you have to do is fire it and it's sized to your chamber

 

[RugerSlinger]

Heres my thought on why I don't want to cut more into the junction; I feel because the die didn't size all the way down to the shoulder the OD is larger and therefore the ID at that point must also be larger. When you cut down to the junction you are reducing the OD but the ID will remain the same, this would cause the neck thickness closer to the shoulder be thinner than the rest of the neck. Does this make sense? So if this is all correct then I could possible have a neck separation caused by too thin of a neck at the junction.

Maybe I am just over thinking it but I really don't want to fuck any of the brass up because it is easier to find unicorn vaginas than SAUM brass at this time.

 

[Papagallos]

Heres my thought on why I don't want to cut more into the junction; I feel because the die didn't size all the way down to the shoulder the OD is larger and therefore the ID at that point must also be larger. When you cut down to the junction you are reducing the OD but the ID will remain the same, this would cause the neck thickness closer to the shoulder be thinner than the rest of the neck. Does this make sense? So if this is all correct then I could possible have a neck separation caused by too thin of a neck at the junction.

Maybe I am just over thinking it but I really don't want to fuck any of the brass up because it is easier to find unicorn vaginas than SAUM brass at this time.

Then keep your brass as is. Happy reloading!

 

[omurnion]

I've turned 300 saum into 6.5 and I'm neck turning it all the way to the junction. But then my die sizes the neck all the way to the junction as well. I'm curious as to why your not sizing the whole neck?

 

[RugerSlinger]

I'm not sure the reason it doesn't size all the way down, all my Redding dies do the same thing. I am using the reading 300 SAUM Neck sizing die bottomed out. I dont have the gun yet to see if it chambers these rounds, I really wanted to have some brass all prepped so when it came in I could just find bullet depth and get out and shoot her.

What if I turn the necks before sizing down the necks? This would allow the whole neck to be the same thickness I think

 

[H.ARM]

I have had the same concern as I have necked down from 300 SAUM to 6.5......am I removing so much material near the shoulder that I'm weakening the case there? Got some good coaching from a veteran Hide member in a PM/phone call, and feel like they will be O.K. For myself, I've decided to take a cold shower, wait for the rifle to arrive from GAP, and see how they chamber empty. I'm pretty sure it will be a lot easier to cut them more if needed than ruin them and have to find more. I'm just a newbie, so my 2 cents is probably worth less than that.

New Remington 300 RSAUM brass
Redding Comp neck dies
.325 to .315 to .295 bushings
Sinclair neck turning tool

 

[Aeon1]

I think part of the problem you guys are having is that sometime in the recent past Redding has started to put a larger chamfer on the leading edge of the ID of the bushings. It's great for sizing necks down (maybe that's why they did it) but not so great for sizing close to the neck. They used to have just a small radius and you were able to size much closer to the neck of the case. A possible solution is you could go to a Wilson bushing which will fit in the Redding die. Wilson bushings are still made with a smallish radius on the ID. Be aware that the Wilson bushings are also slightly tapered on the ID as well so they are directional. They can be flipped so if you need slightly more neck tension you can flip the bushing upside down and get up to .0005" (half a thousandths) more reduction in neck dia. In the interest of correct information I spoke with Wilson this morning to confirm they have not changed their bushings like Redding has.

 

[steve123]

Any info on the best place find a 7 saum bushing die set?

Also has anyone sized 300saum down to 7saum in a 7saum full length die with good results? If so were there any problems doing so?

Thanks

 

[Huckleberry75]

I would go alittle farther and cut into the neck/shoulder junction just alittle bit.

This.

on the note of that how it doesn't size to the shoulder, I get the same thing but all you have to do is fire it and it's sized to your chamber

This.

I think part of the problem you guys are having is that sometime in the recent past Redding has started to put a larger chamfer on the leading edge of the ID of the bushings. It's great for sizing necks down (maybe that's why they did it) but not so great for sizing close to the neck. They used to have just a small radius and you were able to size much closer to the neck of the case. A possible solution is you could go to a Wilson bushing which will fit in the Redding die. Wilson bushings are still made with a smallish radius on the ID. Be aware that the Wilson bushings are also slightly tapered on the ID as well so they are directional. They can be flipped so if you need slightly more neck tension you can flip the bushing upside down and get up to .0005" (half a thousandths) more reduction in neck dia. In the interest of correct information I spoke with Wilson this morning to confirm they have not changed their bushings like Redding has.

Excellent info, thanks for sharing.

 

[high right]

Yes you should be cutting slightly into the shoulder junction, you may want to try a full length sizing die to get rid of the bulge. Or, I have machined the bushing on one side to get rid of the radius. it does require you to flip it around, twice the work. If you do that, you need to be careful NOT to bump the shoulder with the bushing. I have used a full length 7 saum die on the 300 saum brass. no bulge, mandrel, then turn.

 

[Bradu]

I found this looking for info on necking down a 300 norma and was curious about the small portion of the neck that doesn't get sized as well using bushings. There isn't a 7-300 norma full length non bushing die without having it custom made from what I've been looking at.

 

[wilson1911]

I thought bushing dies were a no no when converting. Hence buying a cheap non-bushing sizer.

 

[Bradu]

I thought bushing dies were a no no when converting. Hence buying a cheap non-bushing sizer.

I know in the video of George Gardner showing how to make 6.5 saum brass he uses a bushing die and even mentioned using a second bushing if going from 300 to 6.5mm.

 

[wilson1911]

Bushing dies do not resize that tiny portion just above the shoulder/neck junction.

Your necks will be thinner there after turning. I have done it both ways and their is a difference.

I bought my saum brass from copper creek because we I did not want to do it myself. But it is some pricey shit tho.

Skimming the necks will not matter, it’s when you take meat ? off that does. I neck turn all my brass.

 

[Bradu]

Bushing dies do not resize that tiny portion just above the shoulder/neck junction.

Your necks will be thinner there after turning. I have done it both ways and their is a difference.

I bought my saum brass from copper creek because we I did not want to do it myself. But it is some pricey shit tho.

Skimming the necks will not matter, it’s when you take meat ? off that does. I neck turn all my brass.

I don't disagree and why it's why I questioned it. The more research I do, the more of it see people doing. Even on wildcat pages they talk about using bushing dies. What I'm seeing is to get a full length 7-300 norma dies without bushings, I would need fired brass to have a die made. Some will use the reamer print but recommend fired brass. I obviously would need a die to make the brass before I would be able to fireform it and send the brass into the die manufacturer.