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free float 1022
- Thread starter branct06
- Start date
Re: free float 1022
It works well with my PWS carbon barrel but I used a new v-block that raised the barrel which free floated it off the stock. The Primary Weapons System T3 barrel with green tag ammo really produces one hole 10 shot groups at 50 yards. The gun really improved after the V-block floated the barrel.
It works well with my PWS carbon barrel but I used a new v-block that raised the barrel which free floated it off the stock. The Primary Weapons System T3 barrel with green tag ammo really produces one hole 10 shot groups at 50 yards. The gun really improved after the V-block floated the barrel.
Re: free float 1022
I tried free float when I installed my Kidd in a Tacticool stock. It didn't work out. I put a pressure point in the fore end and now it's good to go. I think it is going to depend on too many factors for anyone here to do anything but guess how it will work for you.
I tried free float when I installed my Kidd in a Tacticool stock. It didn't work out. I put a pressure point in the fore end and now it's good to go. I think it is going to depend on too many factors for anyone here to do anything but guess how it will work for you.
Re: free float 1022
I guess I'll just have to hit the range and end out what happens from there on! Thanks for the info!
I guess I'll just have to hit the range and end out what happens from there on! Thanks for the info!
Re: free float 1022
I get the best accuracy from 10/22s by freefloating the barrel.
There are two things that you have to overcome to free float a barrel. The first is barrel droop. Barrel droop is caused by a loose fit between the barrel and receiver. The barrel should not wobble when it is installed in the receiver. Using an adjustable V-block only masks the symptom by swapping a droop for the inverse. You still have a bad fit between barrel and receiver.
The proper way to fix droop is to either get a barrel that offers a tight fit to the receiver, like a Kidd, or you can turn down the barrel a tad bit and sleeve it to get a proper fit. Going with a new barrel is more cost effective, unless you are handy doing machine work.
The second problem with free floating the barrel is that a stock receiver only has a single attachment point, which leaves the back end free to move up and down. You can fix this by either getting a receiver that has a rear tang or you can cut a locking lug into the back of the receiver and then bed the receiver to create a corresponding lock in the receiver.
This is what I did to mine. I first cut a slot in the rear of my receiver...
I then cut a slot in the forward lug. Once bedded, this will serve to make sure that the action goes into the receiver the same way every time.
I then made a pillar and bedded the front of the receiver. Note the lug left by the groove that was cut.
I then bedded the rear of receiver. Again, note the lug created by the groove in the receiver.
I am now running an 18" bull barrel that is completely freefloated and it shoots great. I get no movement at the back of the receiver when I push down on the barrel. I am now going to use this rifle for 100 and 200 yard F Class type competitions, my reasoning being that once I get a favorable condition, I'll be able to put ten rounds on target much more quickly than I could with a bolt gun.
Just FYI, I found that the above works best if you remove the barrel while doing the work. Also take care not to put too much stress on the V-block screws. I run about 10 in-lbs on them. The V-Block screws shouldn't be used to hold anything together. The only purpose they should serve is to keep the barrel from moving forward from the bolt slamming against it.
I've shot groups with my rifle with the V-block not installed and it may shoot better. I can only get about five rounds before the barrel starts to move forward, but testing indicates that running without the V-block may be the thing to do.
I'm keeping an eye open for a Ruger receiver. I want to try permanently affixing the barrel to the receiver so that I don't have to use the V-Block at all.
I get the best accuracy from 10/22s by freefloating the barrel.
There are two things that you have to overcome to free float a barrel. The first is barrel droop. Barrel droop is caused by a loose fit between the barrel and receiver. The barrel should not wobble when it is installed in the receiver. Using an adjustable V-block only masks the symptom by swapping a droop for the inverse. You still have a bad fit between barrel and receiver.
The proper way to fix droop is to either get a barrel that offers a tight fit to the receiver, like a Kidd, or you can turn down the barrel a tad bit and sleeve it to get a proper fit. Going with a new barrel is more cost effective, unless you are handy doing machine work.
The second problem with free floating the barrel is that a stock receiver only has a single attachment point, which leaves the back end free to move up and down. You can fix this by either getting a receiver that has a rear tang or you can cut a locking lug into the back of the receiver and then bed the receiver to create a corresponding lock in the receiver.
This is what I did to mine. I first cut a slot in the rear of my receiver...
I then cut a slot in the forward lug. Once bedded, this will serve to make sure that the action goes into the receiver the same way every time.
I then made a pillar and bedded the front of the receiver. Note the lug left by the groove that was cut.
I then bedded the rear of receiver. Again, note the lug created by the groove in the receiver.
I am now running an 18" bull barrel that is completely freefloated and it shoots great. I get no movement at the back of the receiver when I push down on the barrel. I am now going to use this rifle for 100 and 200 yard F Class type competitions, my reasoning being that once I get a favorable condition, I'll be able to put ten rounds on target much more quickly than I could with a bolt gun.
Just FYI, I found that the above works best if you remove the barrel while doing the work. Also take care not to put too much stress on the V-block screws. I run about 10 in-lbs on them. The V-Block screws shouldn't be used to hold anything together. The only purpose they should serve is to keep the barrel from moving forward from the bolt slamming against it.
I've shot groups with my rifle with the V-block not installed and it may shoot better. I can only get about five rounds before the barrel starts to move forward, but testing indicates that running without the V-block may be the thing to do.
I'm keeping an eye open for a Ruger receiver. I want to try permanently affixing the barrel to the receiver so that I don't have to use the V-Block at all.
Re: free float 1022
the kidd 20" bull i bought didnt like the pressure point in the revolution stock. so i floated it, too much. the action started rocking. so i had to build back up the area forward of the v block. but its floated forward of this area.
i have my 21" clark barrel in a revolution stock that isnt floated. i have also tried it in the above stock and it seemed to shoot the same. the kidd's groups doubled with a pressure point.
my carbine barrels stock is setup like this
it shoots a little better with the barrel band torqued down. i would play around with whatever barrel you use and see what its preference is. my kidd barrel and clark barrel are both lothar walther blanks, within an inch and a half of each other in length. but the kidd is stainless and the clark is chromoly. they like very different setups as well as ammo.
the kidd 20" bull i bought didnt like the pressure point in the revolution stock. so i floated it, too much. the action started rocking. so i had to build back up the area forward of the v block. but its floated forward of this area.
i have my 21" clark barrel in a revolution stock that isnt floated. i have also tried it in the above stock and it seemed to shoot the same. the kidd's groups doubled with a pressure point.
my carbine barrels stock is setup like this
it shoots a little better with the barrel band torqued down. i would play around with whatever barrel you use and see what its preference is. my kidd barrel and clark barrel are both lothar walther blanks, within an inch and a half of each other in length. but the kidd is stainless and the clark is chromoly. they like very different setups as well as ammo.
Re: free float 1022
The best way to float the barrel is to start with a MOA Corp stainless receiver. It has a rear tang for a rear action screw and best yet the receiver is threaded. Cost is relatively cheap.
http://moaguns.com/
The best way to float the barrel is to start with a MOA Corp stainless receiver. It has a rear tang for a rear action screw and best yet the receiver is threaded. Cost is relatively cheap.
http://moaguns.com/
Re: free float 1022
Another good option is to fully bed the barrel and float the action. You may have to get creative, but it works well. Just my .002.
Regards, Paul
Another good option is to fully bed the barrel and float the action. You may have to get creative, but it works well. Just my .002.
Regards, Paul
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