Suppressors Gap between shoulder and suppressor

[canezach]

I have a barrel for my Desert Tech where the shoulder at the threaded muzzle appears to have been recessed just a hair too much, leaving me with a very small gap between the shoulder and my direct thread suppressor. Is this a huge issue or is it irrelevant as long as the suppressor is tight? If it's an issue, what can I do to negate it?

 

[Zak Smith]

Do not fire.
Have the threads fixed.

 

[canezach]

Do not fire.
Have the threads fixed.

Thanks Zak

 

[deersniper]

What barrel and can? Do you have a picture?

 

[canezach]

I'm heading to the range in a few. I'll take a pic before swapping barrels, but the can is a SilencerTech and the barrel is a K&P

 

[canezach]

 

[Geno C.]

How about a pic of just the threads?

 

[blackops_1]

I don't know who K&P is but looks like they didn't thread the barrel far enough of course. Would an accu-washer work in this situation?

https://precisionarmament.com/product/accu-washer-system/

Would definately need to look down the barrel very closely if employing this method. Like Zak said definately don't shoot it until the can is tightened down securely against the shoulder.

 

[canezach]

Here is a pic of the threads. The stainless barrel is actually aligned with the cerakoted barrel so you can see how much more the shoulder is recessed

 

[Geno C.]

The shoulder recesses, called a thread relief, is probably not your problem. The threads being longer probably is. The threads are most likely running into carbon on the internal threads of the can.

 

[blackops_1]

The shoulder recesses, called a thread relief, is probably not your problem. The threads being longer probably is. The threads are most likely running into carbon on the internal threads of the can.

+1 with what Geno said.

Have you ever shot this barrel/can combo? Maybe their not made to be compatible? You can goto

https://www.advanced-armament.com/Manuals_ep_45-1.html

and near the bottom click on the pdf that has thread guide. It will illustrate how long the threads should be if the carbon isn't the issue.

 

[canezach]

Thanks for the ideas, guys. I'm going to try what @Geno C. said and see if it's carbon in the threads

 

[Zak Smith]

Hello, even if it is carbon on the suppressor threads from shooting on another rifle, be sure the end of the muzzle threads do not go past the inside edge of the suppressor threads, or else carbon deposited on those will prevent unscrewing as you’ll have the opposite problem

 

[dustingaunder]

Does it stop solidly or does it feel like it binds up and stops?
I’m not familiar with that suppressor but it is possible that it is indexing on the muzzle. Either way I’d have that barrel rethreaded by someone else. It looks like they used an 1/8” parting tool for the thread relief and that’s just lazy.

 

[biffj]

Geno is right. It looks like the thread relief on the barrel is fine and there is carbon in your can. Careful if you use a tap to clear the threads, its easy to knarf up the finer threads. Even if your barrel extends past the threads on the can its not a big deal unless you're machinegunning the rifle. It takes a bit of time to build up enough carbon to cause problems. As long as you remove the can before it sets a few days the carbon buildup will come off when you remove the can, which you should do after every shooting session anyway. Cans act like traps for the water vapor produced when smokeless powder is burned. Even on a stainless barrel you can have corrosion and leaving all that water in the can is asking for trouble. Shoot and remove the can......no problems. The carbon build up stays a little soft for a while but gets pretty hard after a day or two.

Frank

 

[Geno C.]

It doesn’t take long for the carbon to stop a can from coming off threads that are too long... I’ve had one stick after about 40 rounds one day. Let it cool after we were done shooting and it was stuck pretty good

 

[canezach]

Thank you, gents! It was the longer threads hitting some carbon deposits in the suppressor threads. An initial soaking in KG1 took out about 95% almost instantly, but that last 5% took a while. Suppressor rests squarely against the shoulder now.

@Zak Smith and @Geno C. I measured the can threads as best I could and it looks like I have about 0.800" of internal threading and 0.610" from muzzle to shoulder. Good to go?

 

[Zak Smith]

As long as the muzzle to shoulder is less than the internal thread length of the can, the problem I explained should not happen

 

[sako17]

Here's how i hand;ed shoulder space:

Priority Tool and Machine out of Rockwall/Dallas. Pretty decent can for $400, and he's local to me so if I ever get a baffle strike I can drop buy and get it fixed right away.

 

[Swamplife]

I have a barrel for my Desert Tech where the shoulder at the threaded muzzle appears to have been recessed just a hair too much, leaving me with a very small gap between the shoulder and my direct thread suppressor. Is this a huge issue or is it irrelevant as long as the suppressor is tight? If it's an issue, what can I do to negate it?

Great post, I learned a lot from this thread.