I’m going to preface this review with one word…jeezthisfreakinthingissweet. I’m getting that out of the way just in case one of my observations is perceived to be negative. In that event, remember to reference that word because nothing I experienced with this weapon today will change that impression.
This rig was an upgrade from a DPMS SASS which I just passed along to my son. I had a fair amount of trigger time on that stick so I should be able to draw some comparisons and answer the age old question…”why spend that much more on an auto”? The best way to answer that is to equate them both to autos. The SASS is much like a mustang…very fast, muscular, but a bit utilitarian and clunky whereas the G10 is more like a Corvette…sleek sexy lines, fast, handles like it’s on rails, and just feels tighter and lighter on the road. It goes without saying that if you’re either a Stang or Vette hater this comparison will be lost on you so let’s not go down the Ford vs Chevy road.
I started at 100yds to re-zero the USO which came off of the SASS. In fact this was my 1st USO that has been worn by several (4) different rifles and has around 8000 rounds on it, and it’s been beat on a little. I mention this because I gotta give props to this scope as it still tracks flawlessly. If I need a correction I simply dial it once and it’s there.
This right row was shot 1st using FGMM 168’s
I only shot 6 targets at 100 to achieve the desired result before moving out to 200. The right bottom target was shoot-clean-shoot with 2 round strings for a total of 10 rounds. I chose 2 rounds vice one round between cleanings mostly due to how the bore felt running a patch through it. By comparison when breaking in the SASS the bore felt rough for the 1st 10-20 rounds. Not the G10…the bore felt slick and smooth from the 1st cleaning and fouled very little in between so I felt one round between cleanings was goofy.
The top right target was the second fired and the spread was due solely from making final adjustments to the EREK. The right center target was with final zero. If you’re asking yourself why I shot these targets in this particular order it’s because when I shot both the top and bottom targets for the first time, my POA was actually the center target. Remember the USO came off a SASS zero so my elevation changed. I simply dialed in the correction and moved to the target I actaully hit so as to save me a few trips down range. There were no fliers in that row and they all hit pretty much where I called them.
After that I shot the left row with 175’s starting at the bottom. True to form I’ve found 175’s to shoot low and left from an AR10 zeroed with 168’s. After dialing the correction I finished with the top 2. I don’t want to call the strays “fliers” because they went exactly where I called them….I was rushing to head over the 200yd line and pulled a few.
The 200 yard line was like entering the twilight zone. As I was hanging my target the sky opened up as you can see from the wet targets. By the time I made it back to the shed I was drenched to the skin. I shot this target board with water running into my eyes. Just my luck I had no towel and my shirt was dripping wet and useless, so I used cleaning patches to dry my eyes. I started with the 10 shot group at the top right taking the obligatory 3 seconds between shots.
After that I did a clean and things went downhill. I had a failure to feed on the next mag. I cycled another round and decided to eject it without firing to check things out and it was stuck in the chamber. WTF? With some gentle persuasion I got the bolt back and decided to clean the chamber which was a bit dirty but the next round also failed to feed so I checked out the mag which was a GAP supplied PMAG. I pushed the follower down and it…well…stayed there. OK, problem solved…got a sticky mag that I’ll massage/lube into shape when I get back to the compound. It bears mentioning that all the DPMS mags I had worked flawlessly.
Here’s where things get weird. Before shooting the last 5 targets I picked up a piece of brass that had missed the catcher and what I saw was confusing. This was a FGMM 175 with a headstamp that simply read FC 10. Not noticing this before I opened up a new box and these were NOT the FGMM’s I’m used to seeing. The brass was on the dirty side and the cases felt a bit sticky in my hand. I remember seeing this before and the answer was in my ammo bag…these appeared to be M118’s in a GMM box. I ordered 1.5 cases from CTD which was the same place I picked up a batch of M118 from several months ago. So again…WTF. Either CTD was putting these M118’s in GMM boxes or Federal was doing it. Either way I had no clue what I was actually shooting other than to say it grouped nicely.
Still dripping wet and a bit ticked off/confused over this ammo thing I still managed to print pretty nicely at 200 for the last 5 targets even though it was still raining pretty hard. I ran through the last 5 pretty quick to get it hot for some thermals which you’ll see below. Both the bolt face and chamber were relatively cool and the hottest part of the rifle was the barrel about 1-2 inches behind the gas block
Overall this thing is sweet. The SASS was every bit as accurate but it wasn’t as consistent or tight feeling. For example I have a JP bore guide that was a bit loose in the SASS and I had to hold it in place during cleaning. Not so in the GAP... It fit much tighter and brush extraction doesn’t pull it out of the upper. Same for the upper and lower…much tighter fit with the GAP.
I don’t know who makes the trigger but all I can say is “brilliant”. I’ve shot JP’s and Timneys and this trigger rocks. No discernable creep and very crisp. 1st shot feels around 3.5 lbs but seems a bit lighter for follow-ups off the reset. Best AR trigger I’ve tried to date. If I had one complaint (not really) it would be that the rifle was delivered bone dry, meaning there didn’t seem to be a drop of lube in it. I stripped it before heading the range to minimize any surprises so that’s really a non-issue.
Thermals...
The chamber was actusally hotter than the bolt face. The spotmeter wouldn't even lock on to the bolt face it was so cool.
Chamber
Just behind the gas block
Gas block
Bolt face was too cool (comparitively) to get a lock on it. It's the orange circle at top right. I was surprised at cool the bolt face was after 40 quick rounds
This rig was an upgrade from a DPMS SASS which I just passed along to my son. I had a fair amount of trigger time on that stick so I should be able to draw some comparisons and answer the age old question…”why spend that much more on an auto”? The best way to answer that is to equate them both to autos. The SASS is much like a mustang…very fast, muscular, but a bit utilitarian and clunky whereas the G10 is more like a Corvette…sleek sexy lines, fast, handles like it’s on rails, and just feels tighter and lighter on the road. It goes without saying that if you’re either a Stang or Vette hater this comparison will be lost on you so let’s not go down the Ford vs Chevy road.
I started at 100yds to re-zero the USO which came off of the SASS. In fact this was my 1st USO that has been worn by several (4) different rifles and has around 8000 rounds on it, and it’s been beat on a little. I mention this because I gotta give props to this scope as it still tracks flawlessly. If I need a correction I simply dial it once and it’s there.
This right row was shot 1st using FGMM 168’s
I only shot 6 targets at 100 to achieve the desired result before moving out to 200. The right bottom target was shoot-clean-shoot with 2 round strings for a total of 10 rounds. I chose 2 rounds vice one round between cleanings mostly due to how the bore felt running a patch through it. By comparison when breaking in the SASS the bore felt rough for the 1st 10-20 rounds. Not the G10…the bore felt slick and smooth from the 1st cleaning and fouled very little in between so I felt one round between cleanings was goofy.
The top right target was the second fired and the spread was due solely from making final adjustments to the EREK. The right center target was with final zero. If you’re asking yourself why I shot these targets in this particular order it’s because when I shot both the top and bottom targets for the first time, my POA was actually the center target. Remember the USO came off a SASS zero so my elevation changed. I simply dialed in the correction and moved to the target I actaully hit so as to save me a few trips down range. There were no fliers in that row and they all hit pretty much where I called them.
After that I shot the left row with 175’s starting at the bottom. True to form I’ve found 175’s to shoot low and left from an AR10 zeroed with 168’s. After dialing the correction I finished with the top 2. I don’t want to call the strays “fliers” because they went exactly where I called them….I was rushing to head over the 200yd line and pulled a few.
The 200 yard line was like entering the twilight zone. As I was hanging my target the sky opened up as you can see from the wet targets. By the time I made it back to the shed I was drenched to the skin. I shot this target board with water running into my eyes. Just my luck I had no towel and my shirt was dripping wet and useless, so I used cleaning patches to dry my eyes. I started with the 10 shot group at the top right taking the obligatory 3 seconds between shots.
After that I did a clean and things went downhill. I had a failure to feed on the next mag. I cycled another round and decided to eject it without firing to check things out and it was stuck in the chamber. WTF? With some gentle persuasion I got the bolt back and decided to clean the chamber which was a bit dirty but the next round also failed to feed so I checked out the mag which was a GAP supplied PMAG. I pushed the follower down and it…well…stayed there. OK, problem solved…got a sticky mag that I’ll massage/lube into shape when I get back to the compound. It bears mentioning that all the DPMS mags I had worked flawlessly.
Here’s where things get weird. Before shooting the last 5 targets I picked up a piece of brass that had missed the catcher and what I saw was confusing. This was a FGMM 175 with a headstamp that simply read FC 10. Not noticing this before I opened up a new box and these were NOT the FGMM’s I’m used to seeing. The brass was on the dirty side and the cases felt a bit sticky in my hand. I remember seeing this before and the answer was in my ammo bag…these appeared to be M118’s in a GMM box. I ordered 1.5 cases from CTD which was the same place I picked up a batch of M118 from several months ago. So again…WTF. Either CTD was putting these M118’s in GMM boxes or Federal was doing it. Either way I had no clue what I was actually shooting other than to say it grouped nicely.
Still dripping wet and a bit ticked off/confused over this ammo thing I still managed to print pretty nicely at 200 for the last 5 targets even though it was still raining pretty hard. I ran through the last 5 pretty quick to get it hot for some thermals which you’ll see below. Both the bolt face and chamber were relatively cool and the hottest part of the rifle was the barrel about 1-2 inches behind the gas block
Overall this thing is sweet. The SASS was every bit as accurate but it wasn’t as consistent or tight feeling. For example I have a JP bore guide that was a bit loose in the SASS and I had to hold it in place during cleaning. Not so in the GAP... It fit much tighter and brush extraction doesn’t pull it out of the upper. Same for the upper and lower…much tighter fit with the GAP.
I don’t know who makes the trigger but all I can say is “brilliant”. I’ve shot JP’s and Timneys and this trigger rocks. No discernable creep and very crisp. 1st shot feels around 3.5 lbs but seems a bit lighter for follow-ups off the reset. Best AR trigger I’ve tried to date. If I had one complaint (not really) it would be that the rifle was delivered bone dry, meaning there didn’t seem to be a drop of lube in it. I stripped it before heading the range to minimize any surprises so that’s really a non-issue.
Thermals...
The chamber was actusally hotter than the bolt face. The spotmeter wouldn't even lock on to the bolt face it was so cool.
Chamber
Just behind the gas block
Gas block
Bolt face was too cool (comparitively) to get a lock on it. It's the orange circle at top right. I was surprised at cool the bolt face was after 40 quick rounds