Gunsmithing Geissele Trigger Grease: Why use it?

[rg1911]

I'm wondering why this seems to be so popular. I have a large grease-gun tube of it, but really cannot tell any difference between it and any other good lubricant. Am I missing something? Is there a special way to apply it?

Thank you,
Richard

 

[xringaccuracy]

Not missing anything. Ofcourse they say use their grease. Like anything else, the proper lube in the proper place goes along way. Seen alot of AR's that have gobs of grease all over the place except where needed. Their grease is fine and the tube they give you should outlast that trigger group.

 

[pfcustom]

Because they buy it in large tubs at the auto parts store...usually called distributor point cam grease ((I know ..whats a distributor and what are points??) Hey, that's why the old black moly di-sulfide grease is so cheap these days.
Repackage it and charge 10 times what it's real street value.
Everybody does or has done this for years. I still have a little plastic syringe of something called "trigger job in a tube" (I think it was from Wilson Combat) I just refill it with the moly grease I have in a half pint tub from NAPA!!
I also have a bottle of "Buck Knife" honing oil from way back when. Dextron ATF that I paid about $5 a quart for!

 

[rg1911]

Thanks for the information. I wondered if it was something along those lines. The 13.7 ounces I have should last a few months.

;-)

Cheers,
Richard

 

[xringaccuracy]

Because they buy it in large tubs at the auto parts store...usually called distributor point cam grease ((I know ..whats a distributor and what are points??) Hey, that's why the old black moly di-sulfide grease is so cheap these days.
Repackage it and charge 10 times what it's real street value.
Everybody does or has done this for years. I still have a little plastic syringe of something called "trigger job in a tube" (I think it was from Wilson Combat) I just refill it with the moly grease I have in a half pint tub from NAPA!!
I also have a bottle of "Buck Knife" honing oil from way back when. Dextron ATF that I paid about $5 a quart for!

HA! Thanks for the memories. Still have a dwell meter for NO known reason. Just hate to part with a Snap On meter I guess. Dual Holleys with a dual point distributor on a 426 Hemi was the chitz, Back in the day lol

 

[pfcustom]

Man-o-man. Memories. And what great sounds they made. When a 426 hemi, Rat motor Cheby or 429 Y-Block fired up you by gosh knew something had "ignited" under the hood!!

HA! Thanks for the memories. Still have a dwell meter for NO known reason. Just hate to part with a Snap On meter I guess. Dual Holleys with a dual point distributor on a 426 Hemi was the chitz, Back in the day lol

 

[E. Bryant]

The grease in question is Mobil 28:

Mobilgrease 28 (Aviation)

It's really good stuff (and priced accordingly), but any quality automotive bearing grease will work fine in typical firearm applications. If one feels the need to buy the authentic stuff, a tube will run about $25 shipped from online retailers or eBay. I don't anticipate running out in this lifetime or the next.

 

[xringaccuracy]

Damndest thing is, I have like 6 sets of chebby points, brand new and I heard they are worth like 30 each. Go figure Off to fleabay

 

[mtrmn]

HA! Thanks for the memories. Still have a dwell meter for NO known reason. Just hate to part with a Snap On meter I guess. Dual Holleys with a dual point distributor on a 426 Hemi was the chitz, Back in the day lol

That dwell meter is useful for adjusting the GM CCC carburetors of the 80's. Hook up to the green dwell lead somewhere on the front of the engine and adjust idle mixture to about 28* dwell using the 6-cylinder scale.

 

[cal50]

Good stuff~

 

[xringaccuracy]

That dwell meter is useful for adjusting the GM CCC carburetors of the 80's. Hook up to the green dwell lead somewhere on the front of the engine and adjust idle mixture to about 28* dwell using the 6-cylinder scale.

Yup, I remember that connector. Better off using a sledge hammer to remove the carb. Don't get me started on their (GM) throttle body indirect injection system........the pintle has to be set at (insert unusable number) to gain idle control parameter......I was like OK, lets throw this hunk of shit in the trash LOL! Set that SOB at correct depth, check engine light glows. Back it off 1/2 turn, car ran like shit, check engine light goes off and life is good. And the maze of vaccuum lines, more bad as the Yapanese built better cars then. A tunable carb that had an air/fuel management system that worked. Lee Iaccoca revamped the idea of a Yap car with an American badge. I worked for GM during those years, was a sad state of affairs.